DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

August Sunset

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, double neck edge and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 240-32

#augustsunsetsweater

DROPS design: Pattern as-179
Yarn group C + C or E
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-225-250-275-300-325 g colour 07, red

Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 07, ruby red
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 07, red

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker as follows:
Work until stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over, knit stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over. Increase like this at all markers (8 stitches increased).

When working back and forth, work yarn overs from wrong side as follows before/after marker:
BEFORE MARKER:
Purl yarn over in back loop of stitch. It should not make a hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Slip stitch off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Purl yarn over in front loop of stitch. It should not make a hole.

When working in the round, work yarn overs on next round as follows before/after marker:
BEFORE MARKER:
Slip stitch off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Knit yarn over in front loop of stitch (yarn over is twisted towards the right). It should not make a hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Knit yarn over in back loop of stitch (yarn over is twisted towards the left). It should not make a hole.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work double neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle until vent. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 72-72-76-76-80-80 stitches with 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (2 strands) over a short circular needle size 6 mm and a short circular needle size 8 mm held together. Pull out short circular needle 8 mm and keep stitches on the short circular needle size 6 mm (cast is done like this to get an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and knit 1. Continue rib like this for 10 cm.
Now fold the rib inwards to form a double edge - then work next round in rib as before at the same time work every 4th stitch together with every 4th from cast-on edge. You now have a double neck edge. Now measure the piece from here.

Now insert 4 markers in piece as explained below (without working the stitches). Use markers when increasing for raglan.

Count 10-10-11-11-12-12 stitches (half back piece), insert 1st marker in next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 2nd marker in next stitch, count 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches (front piece), insert 3rd marker in next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 4th marker in next stitch, 10-10-11-11-12-12 stitches remain on round after last marker(half back piece).

NECK LINE:
Now work neck line with short rows as explained below. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Begin mid back:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, on each side of the first 2 markers (4 stitches increased), turn when you have worked 2 stitches past stitch with 2nd marker.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for raglan on each side of all markers (8 stitches increased), turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the last marker.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for raglan on each side of all markers (8 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been worked since last turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for raglan on each side of all markers (8 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been worked since last turn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for raglan on each side of the first 2 markers (4 stitches increased), work until mid back.

The short rows are now done, and you have increased for raglan 4 times at every marker = 104-104-108-108-112-112 stitches on row. Continue working in the round over all stitches needle from mid back.

YOKE:
Work in stocking stitch and continue increases for raglan every other round until increase has been done 5-5-5-6-7-9 times in total on each side of the 4 stitches with markers (including increases on the short rows) = 112-112-116-124-136-152 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue with stocking and increase for raglan but on every other increase, increase only on body (4 stitches increased). I.e. increase on body every other round, and on sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 8-10-10-12-12-12 times on body (4-5-5-6-6-6 times on sleeves).
There are now 160-172-176-196-208-224 stitches on needle. In size S and M - move on to ALL SIZES.

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue in stocking stitch and increases for raglan but now only increase on body, increases for sleeves are done. Increase on every other round 1-1-2-3 times in total = 180-200-216-236 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Increase has been done 13-15-16-19-21-24 times in total on body and 9-10-10-12-13-15 times on sleeves (including increases on the short rows in the neck).

After last increase there are 160-172-180-200-216-236 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch without increases until piece measures approx. 20-22-23-26-28-30 cm, measured mid front after rib in neck

Now divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 24-26-28-31-34-37 stitches (half back piece), slip the next 32-34-34-38-40-44 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work the next 48-52-56-62-68-74 stitches (front piece), slip the next 32-34-34-38-40-44 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 24-26-28-31-34-37 stitches (half back piece).

BODY:
= 108-116-128-140-152-164 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side – i.e. in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches that were cast on under sleeves in each side. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for dividing for vents in each side. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches until piece measures 16-16-17-16-16-16 cm from division. Now divide the piece at the marker threads. Slip the 54-58-64-70-76-82 stitches on back piece on a thread or needle, and work over stitches on front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
= 54-58-64-70-76-82 stitches. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 16-16-18-20-22-24 stitches evenly = 70-74-82-90-98-106 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Work rib as follows from wrong side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on row, purl 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 10 cm. Cast off somewhat loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
Slip the 54-58-64-70-76-82 stitches from thread/needle on circular needle size 6 mm and work piece the same way as front piece.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 32-34-34-38-40-44 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 8 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 38-40-42-46-48-52 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Begin at the marker thread, and work stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 5½-5½-4-3-2½-2 cm 4-4-5-6-7-8 times in total = 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches. Continue until piece measures 28-27-26-24-23-22 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 10-8-8-10-10-12 stitches evenly = 40-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 12 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 40-39-38-36-35-34 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 31.07.2023
Slip the 32-34-34-38-40-44 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 8 mm ...

Diagram

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #augustsunsetsweater or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (32)

Michaela wrote:

Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort. Dennoch muss ich nochmals fragen, wie man in Rückreihen, die ja mit linken Maschen gestrickt werden und in denen man den Umschlag aus der Zunahmen der Hinreihe rechts und links der Raglanmasche noch abstricken muss, die hier beschriebenen Zunahmen machen soll? Wie soll das gehen? Über Ihre eindeutige Erklärung wäre ich sehr dankbar, vG Michaela

04.01.2025 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie die Umschläge wie unter RAGLANZUNAHMEN: > VOR DEM MARKIERER.... > NACH DEM MARKIERER beschrieben. Gleichzeitig nehmen Sie auch wie zuvor beidseitig von der Masche mit der Markierung (Umschlag der vorigen Reihe stricken, 1 Umschlag auf der Nadel, 1 Masche mit dem Markierer stricken, 1 Umschlag auf der Nadel, Umschlage der vorigen Reihe stricken). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

06.01.2025 - 09:14

Das mit den verkürzten Reihen verstehe ich nicht. Wie ist es möglich, dass in einer Rückreihe glatt rechts gestrickt wird.? Auch ist mir unklar, dass in Rückreihen Raglanzunahmen gemacht werden sollen. Ich bin etwas verzweifelt, vG Michaela

29.12.2024 - 14:42

Liebe Michaela, wenn mann glattrechts in Hin und Rückreihe strickt, werden die Hinreihen rechts und die Rückreihen links gestrickt. Die Raglanzunahmen werden beidseitig von den Markierungen gestrickt, bei der 1. verkürzten Reihe nur bei 2 Markierungen und bei der 5. Reihe nur bei den 2 anderen Markierungen (so hat man genausoviel gleichzeitig von der hinteren Mitte zugenommmen). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.01.2025 - 14:19

Marie Young wrote:

Please ignore my last email I have worked out what I was doing wrong, when I say I what I really mean is my husband (who doesn’t knit) worked it out for me. Lucky me😏

27.12.2024 - 22:22

I’ve started the August Sunset jumper, however I can’t match the stitch markers to the pattern the stitches just don’t add up. Has anyone had problems getting past the neck

27.12.2024 - 20:56

Dear Marie, which size are you working? Remember that the markers are inserted into stitches, so to the numbers indicated you have to add up 4 stitches. For the smallest size, for example, you have: 10 (half back piece)+1 (1st marker) +14 (sleeve) +1 (2nd marker) +20 (front piece) +1 (3rd marker) +14 (sleeve) +1 (4th marker)+10 (half back piece) = 72 stitches. Happy knitting!

30.12.2024 - 00:58

Weronika wrote:

Nie rozumiem jak robić rzędy skrócone. W opisie reglanu narzuty robi się na prawej stronie robótki i przerabia je na lewej. A w rzędach skróconych we wzorze należy dodawać oczka reglanowe też na lewej stronie robótki - jak to zrobić? Nie znalazłam żadnego filmiku z taką metodą

26.12.2024 - 10:46

Witaj Weroniko, dodajesz oczka na lewej stronie wykonując narzut z każdej strony oczka z markerem, czyli dochodzisz do narzutu, który był wykonany na prawej stronie i przerabiasz go jak w opisie w części REGLAN (gdy przerabiamy w tę i z powrotem, przerabiać narzuty na lewej stronie robótki za/przed markerem następująco...) i wykonujesz narzut (to jest dodane oczko na lewej stronie). Pozdrawiamy!

28.12.2024 - 17:42

Antonia González Pérez wrote:

Se puede realizar con agujas rectas?

15.12.2024 - 15:07

Hola Antonia, este patrón tiene un número elevado de puntos, por lo que es difícil trabajar con agujas rectas. Puedes trabajar el canesú hasta dividir para el cuerpo y mangas y luego trabajar las mangas, el delantero y la espalda de ida y vuelta con agujas rectas. O trabajar todo con agujas rectas de ida y vuelta pero ajustar las costuras a las líneas del raglán. Recuerda hacer los ajustes indicados en la siguiente lección: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23.

15.12.2024 - 23:22

Mar wrote:

Este patrón es incorrecto, si aumentas 5 veces 8 puntos y tienes 104, al final tienes 144 y no 112

11.12.2024 - 22:24

Tatiana wrote:

Dobry den, prosim vas - pri velkosti L ma clovek nahodit 76 ociek a neskor ma golier rozdelit na 11 + 14 + 22 + 14 + 11, co je ale dohromady 72 - prehliadla som nieco? dakujem vopred.

08.11.2024 - 23:45

Dobrý den Tatiana, při dělení pleteniny označíte 4x jedno konkrétní oko. Od každého označeného oka odpočítáte další potřebný počet ok. Máte tedy: 11+14+22+14+11=72 ok + 4 označená oka = 76 ok. Ať se Vám hezky plete!

09.11.2024 - 10:52

Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas les rangs raccourcis après l encolure On augmente après le marqueur 1 et 2 et on retourne le tricot Mais du coup on augmente qu un côté du pull ?

12.05.2024 - 14:39

Bonjour Isabelle, effectivement, au 1er rang, on ne tricote que sur un côté du pull, mais au dernier des rangs raccourcis (rang 5), on va tricoter l'autre côté uniquement (jusqu'au milieu dos), ainsi on aura équilibré les augmentations à gauche et à droite du milieu dos. Bon tricot!

13.05.2024 - 08:38

Laura wrote:

Debe haber un error en las 5 HILERAS de las hileras cortas / short rows (tras unir el cuello doble): Hilera 1 (lado derecho) se hacen 4 lazadas. Por eso en la Hilera 2 (lado revés) no se pueden volver a hacer aumentos con lazadas nuevas en esos mismos marcadores, sino que se tienen que tejer las lazadas retorcidas. Talla S: se hacen lazadas en Hilera 1, 3 y 5 (2 veces completas)? Y luego 3 veces más tejiendo en círculo?

06.04.2024 - 07:04

Hola Laura, cuando tejes de ida y vuelta, en la fila de revés aumentarás puntos a la vez que trabajas las hebras retorcidas para que no queden agujeros. Puedes ver la explicación de esto en RAGLÁN. Trabajas la hebra retorcida tal y como se explica para antes y después y antes o después haces 1 hebra nueva en la fila de revés (justo al lado del marcapuntos). De esta forma, tienes los 32 aumentos en las 5 filas.

08.04.2024 - 00:05