DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

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Know the Ropes

Knitted jumper in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked bottom up with stripes, relief-pattern, sewn-in sleeves and round neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 239-40

#knowtheropessweater

DROPS Design: Pattern w-907
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 17, off white
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 48, petrol

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with relief-pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

STRIPES BODY:
Work stripes and pattern as follows:
Work the first 8 rows in A.1 with colour off white, work the last 4 rows in A.1 with colour petrol. Continue like this until you have worked 6 stripes in colour petrol. Continue with diagram A.2 and colour off white.

STRIPES SLEEVES:
Work diagram A.2 with stripes as follows: * 4 rows with colour off white, 4 rows with colour petrol *, work from *-* 3 times, then * 8 rows with colour off white, 4 rows with colour petrol *, work from *-* 3 times. Finish the sleeve with diagram A.2 and colour off white.

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after/before the 1 edge stitch on each side. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1/A.2.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front/back pieces and sleeves are worked separately, back and forth. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 125-134-143-155-170-185 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Paris colour petrol.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Change to colour off white and work garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until the rib measures 16 cm from cast on edge and the next row is from the right side.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row and decrease 38-41-44-50-53-56 stitches evenly spaced = 87-93-99-105-117-129 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side and cast on 1 edge stitch on each side = 89-95-101-107-119-131 stitches.
Continue with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in stocking stitch on each side - read STRIPES BODY.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 is finished, continue with colour off white and A.2 to finished length.
When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm from the cast-on edge, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 83-89-95-101-113-125 stitches. Continue casting off at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: 2 stitches 0-1-1-1-3-4 times, 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-5-7 times = 79-81-85-89-91-95 stitches. Work until the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Cast off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. On the next row from the neck cast off 1 stitch. There are 24-25-26-28-28-30 stitches on the shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back, until the front piece measures 51-53-54-56-57-59 cm = 79-81-85-89-91-95 stitches. Place the middle 19 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately:

LEFT SHOULDER:
= 30-31-33-35-36-38 stitches.
On the first row from the right side begin to decrease for the neck: Work pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left by the neck, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased) and 2 stitches in stocking stitch. You now have 3 stitches in stocking stitch by the neck. Repeat the decrease every row from the side a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times = 24-25-26-28-28-30 stitches. Cast off when the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 30-31-33-35-36-38 stitches.
On the first row from the right side begin to decrease for the neck: 2 stitches in stocking stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (1 stitch decreased), work as before to the end of the row. You now have 3 stitches in stocking stitch by the neck. Repeat the decrease every row from the neck a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times = 24-25-26-28-28-30 stitches. Cast off when the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 65-68-71-74-77-77 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and colour petrol. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Change to colour off white and work garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until the rib measures 16 cm from cast on edge and the next row is from the right side.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row and decrease 18-21-18-21-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 47-47-53-53-59-59 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Work A.2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side - read STRIPES SLEEVES.

Read the next section before continuing!
When the sleeve measures 20 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side - read INCREASE TIP.
Repeat the increase every 4½-3-3½-2½-3½-2 cm a total of 6-8-7-9-6-8 times on each side = 59-63-67-71-71-75 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 47-46-46-45-42-40 cm (approx. 4-5-5-6-9-11 cm left). Cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times, 1 stitch 0-2-2-3-6-8 times, 2 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time. Cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 51 cm in all sizes.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and sew the sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the side seams, inside 1 edge in stocking stitch, leaving a 16 cm split at the bottom.

NECK:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and colour off white. Start from the right side on one shoulder and knit up 84-99 stitches around the neckline (including the stitches from the thread in front) – knit up inside the 1 knitted stitch along the sides of the neck in front, leaving 2 visible knitted stitches. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Purl 1 round. Continue the rib until the neck measures 9 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
If you wish, you can fold the neck double to the inside and sew down with a few stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 10.05.2023
SLEEVES:
Cast on 65-68-71-74-77-77 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and colour petrol. ... *-* until there is 1 stitch left, and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. .. Knit 1 row and decrease 18-21-18-21-18-18 stitches evenly spaced...

Updated online: 08.11.2023
SLEEVE:..Work A.2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side - read STRIPES SLEEVES...

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (9)

Clara wrote:

Hallo, ich mache Größe S und habe eine Frage zu den Abnahmen bei den Armausschnitten. Ich habe beidseitig 3 Maschen abgenommen, der nächste Schritt ist 2 Maschen je 0x beidseitig. Muss ich jetzt 2 Reihen ohne Abnahmen stricken oder diesen Schritt überspringen und direkt 1 Masche je 2x abnehmen (also in 4 Reihen jeweils die 1. Masche abketten)?

13.09.2024 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Clara, in S sollen. Sie einfach nur 1 Masche 2 Mal beidseitig abnehmen, so sind es 83-(2x1)x2 = 79 Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.09.2024 - 08:04

Eileen Reuben wrote:

For this pattern in a small it does not say how many skins you would need of drops Paris

26.03.2024 - 23:13

Dear Ellen, DROPS Paris comes in 50 grams skeins, so since the pattern says for size small you need 550 gramms of off-white and 150 gramms of petrol, you will need 11 skeins of off white and 3 skeins of petrol. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

27.03.2024 - 10:01

Susanne wrote:

Ich weiß nicht, was ich falsch gemacht habe, aber der Pullover fällt VIEL zu groß aus. Ich habe die Größe xl ( 62cm in der Breite, Rück-Vorderteil, Anschlag 155 Maschen) gewählt, da ich Größe 44/46 trage. Ausserdem habe ich eine dickere Nadel gewählt, wie vorgeschlagen, da meine Maschenprobe statt 17 Maschen 20 Maschen ergab. Nachdem ich das Rückenteil gemessen habe ( im A1 Bereich, nach Abnahme von 50 M.) , waren es 72 cm in der Breite. Also viel zu groß.

10.01.2024 - 17:18

Liebe Susanne, die 155 Maschen werden mit Bündchen gestrickt, danach nehmen Sie ab, so daß 105 M übrig sind, dann mit 17 M = 10 cm sind diese 105 Maschen ca 62 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2024 - 08:52

Helle wrote:

Hej Jeg kan ikke få striberne så fine som på billede, det bliver meget markant når vrang masken strikkes, hvordan undgår i det

27.08.2023 - 11:11

Hei Helle. Når man strikker striper og skal strikke vrang, blir vrangmaskene litt markant, men sånn er det også på genseren på bildet. mvh DROPS Design

11.09.2023 - 07:24

Juliana wrote:

Guten Tag, ich wollte nachfragen, in welchem Muster sollte die Ärmel (Teil mit Streifen) wirklich gestrickt werden. Direkt im Anleitung für Ärmel ist A.1 angegeben, jedoch vorne in Hinweisen zur Anleitung - Streifen Ärmel ist A.2 geschrieben. Für eine Rückmeldung bedanken ich mich voraus.

24.06.2023 - 22:20

Liebe Juliana, Es scheint ein Tippfehler im Muster zu sein. Wir werden uns bei der Designabteilung erkundigen. Grundsätzlich sollte man der Struktur wie am Körper folgen (A.1 für die Streifen und dann A.2 mit natur). Viele Spass zum stricken!

26.07.2023 - 16:41

Janine Grela wrote:

Bonjour, concernant le modèle Know the Ropes, je souhaiterais savoir pourquoi le diagramme est différent pour les manches et les dos devant ? Exemple : devant les rayures sont tricotées dans le même sens que les 4 rangs d'en-dessous et pour les manches les 4 mailles sont intercaleées. Merci pour votre réponse.

23.05.2023 - 08:35

Maria wrote:

Dzień dobry, czy ściągacz rękawa, prawa strona, ma się kończyć oczkiem prawym, trzema oczkami lewymi i oczkiem brzegowym, czy też jest błąd i zamiast 66 oczek należy nabrać 65( rozmiar S)?

26.04.2023 - 11:37

Witaj Mario, zgadza się, w pozostałych rozmiarach też jest błąd. W twoim rozmiarze powinno być 65 oczek. To oczywiście wpłynie na pozostałe liczby w części RĘKAWY. Korekta już została zgłoszona. Pozdrawiamy!

27.04.2023 - 08:18

MURIEL wrote:

Rebonjour merci de m avoir répondue Je suis désolée je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut tricoter les trois mailles du rang envers et reprendre a la quatrième mailles. Je pensais que dans tous les diagrammes en aller retour on tricoter tout le rang endroit de gauche a droite et l envers de droite a gauche Cordialement

17.04.2023 - 20:28

Bonjour Muriel, vous terminez le rang sur l'endroit par les 3 premières mailles du diagramme, donc, sur l'envers, vous devez tricotez d'abord ces 3 mailles, soit vu sur l'envers la 4ème, la 5ème et la 6èm maille de A.1 (= vu sur l'endroit, la 1ère, la 2ème et la 3ème maille de A.1). Bon tricot!

18.04.2023 - 10:04

Muriel wrote:

Bonjour Je suis en train de tricoter le modèle know the ropes et j ai une question Comme il se tricote en aller retour on tricote les rangs pairs de droite à gauche et les rangs impairs de gauche à droite. Seulement pour obtenir le dessin correspondant au tricot il faut tricoter tous les rangs de droite à gauche comment ça se fait svp? Merci

16.04.2023 - 14:27

Bonjour Muriel, quand on lit les diagrammes en allers et retours, on lit les rangs sur l'endroit de droite à gauche et les rangs sur l'envers de gauche à droite. Vous allez tricoter 14-15-16-17-19-21 fois les 6 mailles de A.1 + les 3 premières mailles (le motif est ainsi symétrique), autrement dit, sur l'envers, vous commencez à lire par la 4ème maille à partir de la gauche (pour tricoter les 3 dernières mailles, vu sur l'envers), puis répétez A.1 en lisant les 6 m de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

17.04.2023 - 09:40