DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Sailor Stripes

Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked top down, with diagonal shoulders / European shoulders, stripes and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 233-23
DROPS Design: Pattern st-035
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour 10, denim jeans

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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STRIPES:
See diagram A.1.

STRIPE-TIP (working in the round):
To get a neater transition between the rounds when working stripes.
Change to the new colour and work 1 round. Work the first stitch on the next round as follows: Pick up the back loop of the stitch under the first stitch on the left needle and place it on the left needle. Knit this stitch together with the next stitch on the left needle. The transition will then be less visible.

INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The top of the back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down, until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder, increased for the neck and the front piece worked back and forth with circular needle until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined and the body is worked in the round with circular needle.
Stitches are knitted around the armhole and the sleeve cap worked back and forth with circular needle, then the rest of the sleeve worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 37-37-41-41-45-45 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and colour off white DROPS Soft Tweed. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side. The markers remain inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work stocking stitch back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row from the right side and BEFORE the marker at the end of this row – read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE.
Continue with stocking stitch and increase from both the right and wrong side a total of 33-35-37-41-43-47 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase there are 103-107-115-123-131-139 stitches and the piece measures approx. 12-12-13-15-15-17 cm from the cast-on edge.
Continue with colour off white until the piece measures 4-5-5-6-7-8 cm (measured along the armhole). Now work A.1 over all stitches and repeat the pattern in height - read STRIPES, until the piece measures 15-16-16-17-18-19 cm (measured along the armhole) and A.1 has been worked 3 times in height. Cut the strand. Place the stitches on a thread..

FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the piece is worn).
Knit up, from the right side, 33-35-37-41-43-47 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left shoulder on back piece (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row along the edge) with colour off white. Work stocking stitch back and forth. When the front piece measures 6 cm, increase stitches for the neck as follows: Increase 1 stitch inside 3 stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 times. After the last increase there are 38-40-43-47-50-54 stitches. Lay the piece to one side after a row from the wrong side.

Work the right front shoulder, knitting up 33-35-37-41-43-47 stitches from the right side, inside 1 stitch along the right back shoulder, with colour off white. Work stocking stitch back and forth. When the piece measures 6 cm, increase stitches for the neck as follows: Increase 1 stitch inside 3 stitches at the end of each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 times = 38-40-43-47-50-54 stitches. Work back from the wrong side. Work the next row from the right side as follows: Stocking stitch over the 38-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, stocking stitch over the 38-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the left front piece = 103-107-115-123-131-139 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch back and forth. When the piece measures 14-15-17-18-19-20 cm (measured along the armhole) work A.1 as on the back piece, until the front measures approx. 25-26-28-29-30-31 cm and A.1 has been worked 3 times in height. The front and back pieces are now joined for the body.

BODY:
Continue the stripes from the right side over the 103-107-115-123-131-139 stitches on the front piece, cast on 2-6-6-10-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the 103-107-115-123-131-139 stitches on the back piece, cast on 2-6-6-10-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve) = 210-226-242-266-282-306 stitches. Continue A.1 in the round - read STRIPE-TIP above – until the piece measures approx. 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm, measured from the top of the shoulder on the front piece – finish after two rounds with colour off white. Knit 1 round and increase 22-22-26-26-26-30 stitches evenly spaced = 232-248-268-292-308-336 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm with colour off white. Cast off a little loosely. The jumper measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, measured from the top of the shoulder on the front piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and colour off white, knit up from the right side 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the back piece, then 53-55-59-61-63-65 stitches from the shoulder and down the armhole on the front piece = 85-89-93-97-101-105 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row, which is used to measure the sleeve. Start from the wrong side and work stocking stitch back and forth until the sleeve measures 1-1-2-2-2-3 cm. Join the sleeve and continue in the round using short circular needle/double pointed needles. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards. Work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm. Then work A.1 - remember STRIPE-TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 2-5-3-6-3-7 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 16-17-18-19-21-22 times = 53-55-57-59-59-61 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 51-51-50-49-48-48 cm. There is 5 cm left. Finish after a couple of rounds with colour off white. Knit 1 round and increase 7-9-7-9-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 56-56-55-54-53-53 cm.
Sew together the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and colour off white, knit up from the right side 53-55-59-61-63-65 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the front piece, then 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches from the shoulder down the back piece = 85-89-93-97-101-105 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row, which is used to measure the sleeve. Work in the same way as the right sleeve.
Sew together the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up from the right side, inside 1 edge stitch,116 to 132 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and colour off white. Stitch-number should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Cast off. If you want a double neck, fold the neck to the inside and sew a couple of stitches by each shoulder to fasten it in place.

Diagram

symbols = denim jeans
symbols = off white
symbols = stitches for left front shoulder (d) knitted up along left back shoulder (D), stitches for right front shoulder (e), knitted up along right back shoulder (E)
symbols = bottom of armhole sewn together: sew b to B

diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Virginia wrote:

For the sleeves, should I cast on from the mid of armpit? In this case what is the point of the first 2 cm back and forth? Thanks for explaining

08.02.2024 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Virginia, the stitches for sleeves are picked up along armholes but not in the cast on stitches under sleeve when joining body together. You first work in rows for 1, 2 or 3 cm (see size), then join in the round. These 1, 2 or 3 cm will be then sewn to the stitches cast on mid under sleeve. Happy knitting!

09.02.2024 - 07:59

country flag Adam Hoffmann wrote:

Vilken snygg tröja! Jag ber min mor att sticka en sådan åt mig med detsamma!

08.08.2023 - 13:47

country flag Mette Rytter Christensen wrote:

Kan man i denne opskrift se hvilke mål størrelserne svare til ?

05.06.2023 - 13:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mette Denne genseren er skrevet i 6 størrelser, fra S til XXXL. Om du ser nederst på oppskriften ser du målskissen til genseren og her står de ulike målene. Første tallet i tallrekkene tilhører str. S og det siste tallet i tallrekkene str. XXXL. I f.eks str. S er bredden på genseren 50 (x2) cm, lengden 62 cm og vrangbordkanten nederst er 5 cm. mvh DROPS Design

05.06.2023 - 14:34