DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Sand Piper

Knitted jumper in DROPS Muskat or DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 239-4

#sandpipersweater

DROPS Design: Pattern r-813
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour 61, light taupe

Or use:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 03, beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next round to avoid a hole.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 122-126-130-136-142-148 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Muskat or DROPS Cotton Merino.
Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm.
Knit 1 round and increase 36-38-40-44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 158-164-170-180-190-200 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round. The yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work A.1 around the yoke. When A.1 is finished in height, continue with stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the yoke measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm from the marker, increase 40-44-50-56-60-64 stitches evenly spaced = 198-208-220-236-250-264 stitches.
When the yoke measures 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm from the marker, work A.2 around the yoke. NOTE: On round 11 in the diagram move the start of the round 2 stitches to the right so the pattern fits around the yoke. Then start the next round at the same place as before.
On each round marked with an arrow in the diagram increase as follows:
Arrow-1: Increase 42-44-50-58-62-66 stitches evenly spaced = 240-252-270-294-312-330 stitches (there is now room for 40-42-45-49-52-55 repeats of A.2 on the round).
Arrow-2: Increase 38-42-48-56-58-58 stitches evenly spaced = 278-294-318-350-370-388 stitches.

When A.2 is finished, work A.3 around the yoke. On the round marked with an arrow in the diagram increase as follows:
Arrow-3: Increase 32-36-42-50-50-52 stitches evenly spaced = 310-330-360-400-420-440 stitches.

When A.3 is finished, work A.4 around the yoke. When A.4 is finished in your size, work stocking stitch; be aware that in some sizes A.4 is not finished when you start dividing for the body and sleeves.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
When the yoke measures 17-18-20-21-23-25 cm from the marker, divide for the body and sleeves; if A.4 is not finished in your size it will be finished on the body and sleeves.
Work 47-51-55-61-65-69 stitches (half back piece), place the next 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 95-101-110-122-130-138 stitches (front piece), place the next 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 48-50-55-61-65-69 stitches (half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here.

BODY:
= 210-222-244-268-288-308 stitches. Finish A.4 if necessary in your size (the pattern will not fit under the sleeves – work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch; make sure the pattern continues correctly from the yoke).
When A.4 is finished continue with stocking stitch.
When you have worked 6-6½-7-7-7½-7½ cm stocking stitch after A.4, work A.3 around the body.
When A.3 is finished, continue with stocking stitch for 6-6½-7-7-7½-7½ cm. Then work A.3 around the body again. When A.3 is finished, continue with stocking stitch.
When the body measures 25-26-26-27-27-27 cm from the division, knit 1 round and increase 20-22-22-26-28-30 stitches evenly spaced = 230-244-266-294-316-338 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-74-82-90-94-98 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread. Finish A.4 if necessary in your size (the pattern will not fit under the sleeves – work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch; make sure the pattern continues correctly from the yoke).
When A.4 is finished continue with stocking stitch.
You will now start to decrease and work pattern. Read DECREASE and PATTERN before continuing!

DECREASE:
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-8-4-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 5-5-8-11-12-13 times = 60-64-66-68-70-72 stitches.

PATTERN:
After working 7-8-7-6-5-5 cm stocking stitch, continue as follows: * Work A.3 around the sleeve, then work 7 cm stocking stitch *, work from *-* one more time, then work A.3 one more time. When A.3 is finished, continue with stocking stitch.

When the sleeve measures 39-39-37-37-35-33 cm, knit 1 round and increase 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 72-76-78-80-84-86 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 47-47-45-45-43-41 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = increase-round
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Sand Piper

Agnes, Hungary

Sand Piper

Kerstin, Germany

Sand Piper

Anna Korotkevich, Belarus

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 239-4

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Tina Askov wrote:

Når jeg har forskudt mønsteret med 2 masker i A2, skal man så i næste omgang rette forskydningen 2 masker den modsatte vej, så det er som før, eller fortsætter man bare med forskydningen? Tak.

17.09.2024 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tina. Man skal ikke fortsette med forskyvningen, det gjøres kun den ene gangen (slik du først skriver). Om du setter en maskemarkør mellom hvert diagam så har du en bedre oversikt, slik at det ikke forskyver seg flere ganger. mvh DROPS Design

19.09.2024 - 08:52

country flag Cori Hibau wrote:

Thank you for responding so quickly! It is this part that I am confused on : "On round 11 in the diagram move the start of the round 2 stitches to the right so the pattern fits around the yoke. Then start the next round at the same place as before."

07.08.2024 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hibau, start the 11th row when 2 sts remain at the end of 10th round, and work as follows: YO, slip 1 as if to K (next to last stitch), K2 tog (last stitch 10th round + 1st st 11th round), psso (= these are now the last 2 sts of the round), YO (this is now the first stitch of the round; repeat each A.2 the same way: work the last 2 sts together with the first stitch next repeat and knit all stitches on next round. Happy knitting!

07.08.2024 - 13:33

country flag Cori Hibay wrote:

I’m pretty confused on the yoke part, I’ve never done one before. Do you have a video tutorial?

06.08.2024 - 22:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hibay, you will find some video tutorials as well as lessons explaining different techniques used in this pattern; which part would you like us to explain you?

07.08.2024 - 07:57

country flag Jane Stenberg wrote:

Hej jeg har et spørgsmål vedr diagram A2. Jeg kan ikke få forskydning ad omgangsstart til at passe - jeg har forsøgt 4 gange.

02.07.2024 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jane, jo 2 masker før omgangens start, laver du 1 omslag, tager 1 maske løs af pinden som om den skulle strikkes ret, strikker 2 ret sammen, løfter den løse maske over dem som blev strikket sammen, 1 omslag , 3 ret - disse 6 masker strikker du hele omgangen rundt :)

03.07.2024 - 07:57

country flag Chiara Anagrafica Campus wrote:

Buongiorno, Sono in difficoltà a dividere il corpo dalle maniche: non riesco a capire dove vadano aggiunte le 12 maglie dopo aver messo in sospeso le 70 maglie. Ho messo 70 maglie in sospeso, ma poi dove devo avviare le 12 della manica? Cosa si intende per a lato sotto? Devo continuare sempre con lo stesso filo? Grazie

15.06.2024 - 08:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Chiara, le 12 maglie vanno aggiunte a livello delle maglie in sospeso, lavora fino al punto in cui mettere le maglie in sospeso, le mette in sospeso e avvia 12 maglie a nuovo. Buon lavoro!

16.06.2024 - 20:46

country flag Hélène Gervais wrote:

Que veulent dire A.1 et A.2

30.04.2024 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gervais, ce sont les noms des diagrammes correspondant aux points fantaisie que vous trouvez en bas de page. Retrouvez ici plus d'infos sur les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

02.05.2024 - 07:25

country flag Susan Gammelgaard wrote:

Hej jeg vil gerne strikke denne fine bluse, men kunne godt tænke mig at få brystmål og evt andre brugbare mål på str. Xl

19.04.2024 - 07:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Susan. Du finner alle relevante mål til denne genseren på målskissen. Målskissen ser du nederst på oppskriften. Da det ikke er økninger/fellinger i siden på genseren er målene det samme nederst som over brystet (64 cm x 2). mvh DROPS Design

22.04.2024 - 11:19

country flag Fonsegrive Myriam wrote:

Désolée je pense que tout a l'heure j'ai mis commentaire au lieu de question. C'est à propos du diagramme A2 et de la 11eme ligne puisqu'il faut commencer 2 mailles avant il faut donc commencer à la fin de la 10eme ligne ? Cordialement

07.01.2024 - 20:12

DROPS Design answered:

Tout était bien juste, cf réponse ci-dessous :)

08.01.2024 - 10:37

country flag Fonsegrive Myriam wrote:

Bonjour\r\nJe suis en train de tricoter le pull Sand Piper et sur le diagramme A2 il faut au 11eme rang on doit commencer 2 mailles avant. Donc faut il commencer les 2 mailles en fin du 10eme rangs ?\r\nCordialement\r\nMyriam

07.01.2024 - 20:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Myriam, tricotez le 10ème rang jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles, puis glissez la maille suivante à l'endroit, tricotez les 2 mailles suivantes ensemble à l'endroit (= la dernière maille du tour + la 1ère maille du tour suivant) et passez la maille glissée par-dessus les mailles tricotées ensemble, faites 1 jeté et tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles avant le A.2 suivant, et continuez ainsi en commençant par 1 jeté (= nouvelle avant-dernière maille de chaque A.2), à la fin du tour, terminez par 1 jeté et 1 m endroit pour terminer le motif. Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 10:37

country flag Sibylle wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung steht in Bezug auf die Abnahme bei den Ärmeln, dass (in meiner gewählten Größe) alle 8 cm insgesamt 5 x in der Höhe abgenommen werden soll. Was ist mit "5 x in der Höhe" gemeint? Danke schon mal für eine Antwort!

24.09.2023 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sibylle, es ist hier "Mal" gemeint, dh es wird 5 Mal abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.09.2023 - 10:47