DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Christmas Time Cardigan

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and coloured Santa, Christmas tree and snowman-pattern. Sizes 2 – 14 years. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Children 44-17

#christmastimecardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern u-095-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164

YARN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-350-400-450 g colour 44, light grey
50-50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g, colour 47, forest green
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 48, wine red
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 53, anthracite

DROPS BUTTONS NO 513: 6-6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side and are worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension losing its elasticity when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if the piece becomes tight.

KNITTING TIP-2:
If you want more pattern on the sleeves and body, continue the diagrams in the desired order but remember this will affect the amounts of yarn needed. Position a motif mid-top of sleeve and count out from the mid-stitch where the pattern should begin under the sleeve.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together with colour light grey, knit the marker-stitch with colour light grey and knit 2 twisted together with colour light grey (2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 6½-7-8-8½-9-8-8 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 88-92-96-96-100-100-104 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and colour forest green DROPS Karisma. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth at the same time as you work stripes as follows: 1 more row with colour forest green, 2 rows with colour light grey, 4 rows with colour forest green, then light grey until the neck measures 3 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
Knit 1 row from the right side with colour light grey and increase 22-24-26-26-26-26-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 110-116-122-122-126-126-132 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands knitted and yarn overs purled twisted).
Insert 1 marker after the band; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue with stocking stitch, colour light grey and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3-3 cm from the marker, increase 21-23-25-25-29-29-31 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 131-139-147-147-155-155-163 stitches. Adjust so the next row is from the wrong side.
Work pattern and increase as described below – read KNITTING TIP-1 and PATTERN in the explanations above. The bands are always worked in colour light grey.

A.1:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, the first stitch in A.1 (seen from the right side), then A.1, 15-16-17-17-18-18-19 times (the diagrams are worked from left to right when working from the wrong side) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. NOTE: When working from the right side repeat A.1 after the band until there are 6 stitches left, work the first stitch in A,1 so the pattern is symmetrical, and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with an arrow, increase 40-40-48-48-48-56-56 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 171-179-195-195-203-211-219 stitches.

A.2:
When A.1 is finished in your size, work A.2 as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, the first stitch in A.2 (seen from the right side), A.2, 20-21-23-23-24-25-26 times and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with an arrow, increase 32-32-32-32-40-40-48 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 203-211-227-227-243-251-267 stitches.

A.3:
When A.2 is finished, work A.3 as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3, 24-25-27-27-29-30-32 times, the first stitch in A.3 so the pattern is symmetrical and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with an arrow, increase 16-16-16-24-24-24-24 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 219-227-243-251-267-275-291 stitches.

A.4:
When A.3 is finished, work A.4 as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, the first stitch in A.4, work A.4, 26-27-29-30-32-33-35 times and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern – at the same time divide for the body and sleeves as described below.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work until the yoke measures 14-15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from the marker.
The increases are finished but the pattern is not and continues on the body and sleeves.
On the next row divide as follows: Work 35-37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches (front piece), place the next 44-44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 stiches with colour light grey (in side under sleeve), work 61-65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches (back piece), place the next 44-44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 stiches with colour light grey (in side under sleeve), work the last 35-37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 147-155-163-171-179-187-195 stitches.
Continue the pattern from the yoke with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side – the repeat of A.4 will not fit under the sleeves, work as much repeats as possible mid under sleeve and work the remaining stitches with colour light grey.
When A.4 is finished, continue with colour light grey – read KNITTING TIP-2.
Work until the body measures 15-18-21-24-25-26-27 cm from the division.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 13-17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 160-172-180-188-200-208-216 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off a little loosely.
The jacket measures approx. 36-40-44-48-50-52-54 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 44-44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve with colour light grey = 52-52-56-56-60-60-64 stitches. Insert a marker in the 5th of the new stitches under the sleeve (mid-under sleeve); the marker is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue in the round with the pattern from the yoke. A.4 will not fit mid under sleeve, work as much repeats as possible mid under sleeve and work the remaining stitches with colour light grey.
When A.4 is finished continue with colour light grey – read KNITTING TIP-2.
AT THE SAME TIME, when the sleeve measures 3-3-3-3-4-4-4 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-6-6-9-8-11-9 cm a total of 4-3-4-3-4-3-4 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 16-20-24-29-32-36-40 cm from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 4 cm left).
Knit 1 round and decrease 0-2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 20-24-28-33-36-40-44 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = off white
symbols = anthracite
symbols = forest green
symbols = wine red
symbols = increase-row
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Toni Caldwell wrote:

Hey, i am new to knitting clothes and this is my first time knitting a cardigan. i was wondering what a band stitches are? Thank you Toni

20.07.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Toni, band stitches are front borders. In this pattern there are 5 mid front stitches worked in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

20.07.2023 - 22:47

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai le même problème que Chiara. Je n'ai pas fini le motif A3 et je suis à 15 cm (2/3 ans).... Comment puis je faire ?

16.11.2022 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, votre tension n'est probablement pas juste en hauteur, vous devez compenser en tricotant les diminutions plus tôt; ou bien vous pouvez aussi terminer A.3 comme indiqué avant de diviser et alors l'empiècement sera plus long que les 15 cm prévus en taille 3/4 ans, vous pouvez aussi augmenter entre les sapins, autrement dit avant la fin de A.3, attention alors à bien suivre les motifs pour qu'ils soient identiques. Bon tricot!

17.11.2022 - 09:49

country flag Maria Chiara Campanini wrote:

Lo sprone misura 15 cm dal collo. Ma manca un giro di aumenti. Come faccio ?

01.11.2022 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Chiara, deve arrivare con il numero di maglie corretto prima della divisione: ci dev'essere stato un cambio di tensione durante la lavorazione rispetto al campione. Buon lavoro!

02.11.2022 - 18:03

country flag Chiara Campanini wrote:

Non ho ancora finito gli aumenti e il motovo A3 e lo sprone misura già 15 cm. Ho 209 punti. Come li divido? Sono pochi per taglia 3/4 anni ? Il campione era corretto con ferri 4 in altezza

31.10.2022 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Chiara, lo sprone ora misura 15 cm dal segnapunti posizionato alla fine del collo? Buon lavoro!

31.10.2022 - 21:10