DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Country Spice

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and relief pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 237-19

#countryspicesweater

DROPS design: Pattern ai-417
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 35, clay

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge in the round on a short circular needle, top down. Then work an elevation in back of neck, back and forth on circular needle. Work the yoke in the round on circular needle top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work the body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 84-86-90-94-96-100 stitches on short circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm.
Knit 1 round while increasing 20-18-18-22-24-20 stitches evenly = 104-104-108-116-120-120 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back and 1 marker thread after 52-52-54-58-60-60 stitches = mid front. Work yoke as explained below - measure yoke from where marker thread was inserted mid front. Also use marker threads to count out towards the side where pattern should begin.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 4 markers in the piece as explained below - this is done without working the stitches, and each of these 4 markers are inserted between 2 stitches. Use markers when increasing for saddle shoulder.
1st marker: Begin mid back, count 18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches (½ back piece), insert 1st marker before next stitch.
2nd marker: Count 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches from 1st marker (shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker before next stitch.
3rd marker: Count 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches from 2nd marker (front piece), insert 3rd marker before next stitch.
4th marker: Count 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches from 3rd marker (shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker before next stitch.
18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches remain on back piece after 4th marker.
Move the 4 markers upwards when working, increase at each of these markers later.
Now work an elevation in the back of neck as explained below.

ELEVATION:
Work the entire elevation in stocking stitch.
Begin mid back, knit 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 16-16-18-18-20-20. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit 24-24-27-27-30-30, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 32-32-36-36-40-40. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit 40-40-45-45-50-50 – in addition increase 1 stitch BEFORE 1st marker - read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 48-48-54-54-60-60 – in addition increase 1 stitch AFTER 1st marker and 1 stitch BEFORE 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE (the increased stitches are in addition to number of stitches in elevation), turn piece, tighten yarn and work until mid back – in addition increase 1 stitch AFTER 4th marker, cut the yarn. 2 stitches have been increased before 1st and 2 stitches after 4th marker (seen from right side), i.e. there are 4 stitches more on back piece than front piece.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
On next round begin increase for saddle shoulder. AT THE SAME TIME increase for saddle shoulder, work pattern on front piece and back piece. Read the sections SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE and PATTERN as explained below before continuing!

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Work piece in the round on circular needle - begin round after 1st marker.
On first round increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker and increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker – remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase only on front piece and back piece, and number of shoulder stitches stays the same.
Continue in the round like this and increase the same way on every round 16-18-18-18-20-20 times in total. Then work 2 rounds where you increase only in each side on front piece, i.e. increase AFTER 2nd marker and BEFORE 3rd marker = 176-184-188-196-208-208 stitches on needle (16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches on each shoulder and 72-76-78-78-84-84 stitches on front piece/back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase piece measures approx. 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm from where marker thread was inserted. Then increase for sleeves as explained below.

PATTERN:
When 4 rounds in stocking stitch have been worked after neck edge and elevation, pattern begins.
A.1 is only worked on front and back piece. Work sleeves in stocking stitch.
I.e. work in stocking stitch over shoulder stitches, on front piece count the beginning of pattern out from marker thread mid front - see symbol in A.1 which marks mid front/mid back, count out towards the side as far as you can towards saddle shoulder increase, and begin pattern. NOTE! It is best to avoid a knot pattern up to saddle shoulder increase, replace this stitches with stocking stitch if needed, work A.1 as far as you can towards saddle shoulder increase in the other side, and work the last stitches in stocking stitch so that pattern begins and ends the same in each side, work stocking stitch over shoulder stitches, and work pattern on back piece the same way as on front piece. Continue like this.
The increase stitches from saddle shoulder increase, and later the yoke increase is worked in pattern but adjust to avoid a knot pattern up to increases.

SLEEVE INCREASE:
When increase for saddle shoulder is done, increase 4 stitches for sleeves on next round as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE!
Increase now only on sleeves and number of stitches on front pieces and back piece is the same. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every other round 12-13-15-13-13-10 times in total, and then on every round 3-2-0-0-0-0 times in total = 236-244-248-248-260-248 stitches (given that you count on a round in A.1 where no stitches have been decreased, and this applies onwards where all number is given as long as A.1 is worked).
Piece measures approx. 20-22-23-21-22-19 cm from where marker thread was inserted on front piece. Then increase for yoke as explained below.

YOKE INCREASE:
Move the 4 markers from sleeve increase so that each of the 4 markers is in the outermost stitch in each side on front piece and back piece. There are 72-76-78-78-84-84 stitches on front piece/back piece including stitches with markers, and 46-46-46-46-46-40 stitches on each sleeve.
On next round increase 8 stitches for yoke by increasing both before and after each of the 4 stitches with marker.
Now increase stitches on front piece, back piece and on both sleeves - work the increased stitches in A.1 on front piece/back piece and in stocking stitch on sleeves.
Increase like this every other round 0-0-1-3-5-12 times in total, and then every round 1-2-3-5-3-0 times in total.
After last increase there are 244-260-280-312-324-344 stitches on needle.
When all increases are done, the piece measures approx. 21-23-25-26-28-30 cm from where marker thread was inserted on front piece, and approx. 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm from shoulder.
On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows: Slip the first 48-50-54-62-62-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve (all stitches between 1st and 2nd marker), cast on 6-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 74-80-86-94-100-108 stitches (front piece), slip the next 48-50-54-62-62-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve (all stitches between 3rd and 4th marker), cast on 6-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the last 74-80-86-94-100-108 stitches (back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. Now measure piece from here!

BODY:
= 160-176-192-208-224-244 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-8-10-10-12-14 stitches that were cast on at beginning of round. Work in stocking stitch until marker – round begins here now.
Continue pattern in the round as before. NOTE! The 4-4-4-4-4-6 stitches that do not fit the pattern under each sleeve as worked in stocking stitch.
Work until piece measures approx. 21 cm from division in all sizes - finish after 6th or 12th round in A.1.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 5 cm. Loosely cast off.
Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 48-50-54-62-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-8-10-10-12-14 stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working - marker thread should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-6-4-2½-2½-2 cm 4-5-7-10-11-12 times in total = 46-48-50-52-52-54 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 33-32-31-30-29-27 cm from division. 5 cm remain until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length before rib.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 5 cm. Loosely cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 38-37-36-35-34-32 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = no stitch, move directly to next square in diagram
symbols = long stitch: insert needle through piece between decreased from 2 rows/rounds below. Get the yarn and pull it back to the right side of piece - make sure to pull the yarn as long as you can so that it does not tighten the piece
symbols = mid front/mid back
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag McKenna Considine wrote:

If I'm switching to a different yarn than air, should I purchase the same amount in weight or length?

19.11.2024 - 01:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McKenna, use the yarn converter or read more here to get the new amount of yarn when using an alternative. Happy knitting!

19.11.2024 - 08:49

country flag Jules wrote:

Thank you. Also: possible to do the back in stock. stitch? I.E: would gauge be affected? thx for your patience 😊.

29.02.2024 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jules, just check first that your gauge would be the same in pattern and in stocking stitch by knitting a swatch. Happy knitting!

01.03.2024 - 08:23

country flag Jeannie Fairfax wrote:

Please, EXPLAIN: "NOTE! It is best to avoid a knot pattern up to saddle shoulder increase, replace this stitches with stocking stitch if needed, work A.1 as far as you can towards saddle shoulder increase in the other side, and work the last stitches in stocking stitch so that pattern begins and ends the same in each side, work stocking stitch over shoulder stitches, and work pattern on back piece the same way as on front piece. Continue like this."

29.02.2024 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jeannie, the knot pattern (A.1) may become more irregular or difficult to manage once you start increasing for the saddle shoulders. Therefore, at that point, instead of working A.1 over the saddle shoulder stitches you work in stocking stitch. In the meantime, continue working A.1 over the back piece as before. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 22:37

country flag Ling wrote:

Ich verstehe das Muster nicht. Wie kann ich das Muster von beiden Seiten symmetrisch stricken, wenn die vordere Mitte in dem Muster gar nicht in dem Mitte des Musters ist? Ich werde immer bei der rechten Seite der Mitte 6+ 8x *während bei der linken Seite der Mitte immer 2+8x *

14.02.2024 - 00:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ling, in diese Lektion wird erklärt, wie man ein Muster in der Mitte platziert; hier soll die Masche mit dem Dreieck in A.1 die mittlere Masche am Vorder- sowie am Rückenteil sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.02.2024 - 08:23

country flag Maria Vigano' wrote:

Buonasera. E' possibile aggiungere in questo modello il rialzo sul dietro del collo per migliorare la vestibilità? e in caso positivo, seguendo quale schema? Grazie per l'attenzione

17.11.2023 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, può apportare le modifiche che vuole e può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

19.11.2023 - 19:14

country flag Diana Stampe wrote:

Hej med jer 🙂 Jeg er blevet færdig med denne trøje og syntes, at den er rigtig fin. Desværre er der kommet "riller" i ærmerne - jeg gætter på, at det er pga strømpepindene. Kan jeg må nogen måder redde trøjen, så den kan bruges? På forhånd tak og ha en dejlig dag, Diana

17.09.2023 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Diana. Tenker du "riller" nedover ermene der hvor man bytter fra den ene pinnen til den andre? Disse vil forsvinne etter en stund/ved bruk. Evnt kan du strekke og dra litt forsiktig i ermene eller vaske genseren (etter vaskeanvisningen). mvh DROPS Design

26.09.2023 - 11:44

country flag Fionuala wrote:

Hi, I'm making the medium size of this sweater and I wonder if there's a typo in the Sleeve Increase section? The pattern says to increase 1 stitch at each end of the sleeve 13 times. This should result in an additional 26 stitches which, when added to the original 16 stitches, comes to 42 stitches. However, in the next section, Yoke Increase, the pattern states that there should be 46 stitches for the sleeve before any further shaping is worked. Can you advise, please?

26.08.2023 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fionuala, after the shoulder you should have 16 stitches. After that, you increase every 2nd round 2 stitches on each sleeve 13 times and 2 stitches every round twice. So you will increase 30 stitches. 30 + 16 = 46 stitches. Happy knitting!

28.08.2023 - 00:35

country flag Renate wrote:

Ich verstehe das Muster nicht. Woher kommen in der 3. Reihe die beiden rechten Maschen zwischen den tiefer gestochenen Stern-Maschen? In der 2. Reihe sind die darunterlegen Maschen als nicht vorhanden markiert, da sie ja durch die beiden Abnahmen verschwunden sind. Aber wo muss ich einstechen, um dann daraus wieder 2 rechte Maschen zu holen? Vielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Hilfe!

16.11.2022 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Renate, vielleicht kann Ihnen dieses Video helfen? Es zeigt, wie man so ein Muster strickt (beachten Sie aber, das Diagram wie im Pullover zu stricken, Video ist nur die Technikk). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2022 - 10:07

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hi, I think the pattern is incorrect. The increase stitches for the saddle shoulder, on the right side, after marker, says pick up from the back, your video clip, shows the front!!!!

25.10.2022 - 21:08

country flag Karen Beard wrote:

I am an experienced knitter but this pattern ( and another Drops pattern I tried) are completely incomprehensible. I see it is translated into English from Norwegian. With respect, the translation has resulted in complete confusion on my part. Thank you for trying but I won’t be attempting any more of your patterns.

11.10.2022 - 21:22