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Toby the Dog by DROPS Design

Knitted dog for babies in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Theme: Soft toys.

Keywords: animals, garter stitch, toy

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DROPS Baby 43-23
DROPS Design: Pattern me-081-by
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height approx. 19 cm = 7 1/2".

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g color 08, light beige
50 g color 07, light brown
50 g color 01, off white
50 g color 42, cedar
And use:
A left-over color 02, black.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

KNITTING GAUGE:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DIAGRAMS:
Diagram A.1 shows how the piece is sewn together. Diagram A shows how to make French knots.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DOG – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth from the head towards the legs, on double pointed needles - change to circular needle when needed. The piece is filled with wadding and sewn together. The face is embroidered and the tail worked to finish. The whole piece is worked in GARTER STITCH – read description above.

HEAD AND EARS:
Cast on 18 stitches with one double pointed needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine, color light beige.
Work 1 ridge. On the next row start the ear as follows:
Knit 6, cast on 4 stitches.

EAR 1:
Turn. Work back and forth over the outermost 8 stitches – the other stitches are left on the needle – do not cut the light beige strand; it is used later.
Change to color cedar:
Work 3 ridges over the 8 stitches. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Knit (yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes).
Work 1 ridge.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Knit.
Work rows 1 – 4 two more times = 14 stitches.
Work 4 ridges.
ROW 5 (right side): Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together and knit 1.
ROW 6 (wrong side): Knit.
Work rows 5 – 6 two more times = 8 stitches.
The ear measures approx. 6½ cm = 2 1/2", leave a strand-end of 20 cm = 8" and pull it through the 8 stitches.

Fold the ear towards you. Use the light beige strand and cast on 4 new stitches on the needle with 2 light beige stitches. Work the next 6 stitches on the left needle (head), leaving 6 stitches on the left needle.
Do not cut the strand, but change to color cedar and cast on 4 new stitches on the right needle, then work 4 stitches on the left needle - 2 stitches remain on the left needle. Turn and work only over the 8 last stitches with color cedar in the same way as the first ear. When the ear is finished, continue as follows:
Fold the ear towards you. Use the strand in color light beige and cast on 4 new stitches on the needle with 12 stitches in color light beige (right needle). Then work the 2 last stitches on the left needle. There are 18 stitches in color light beige for the head.

HEAD:
Work the nose as follows:
ROW 1: Knit 8, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 8 = 20 stitches. Change to circular needle.
ROW 2: Knit 8, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit the yarn over twisted, knit 8 = 22 stitches.
ROW 3: Knit 9, knit the yarn over twisted, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit the yarn over twisted, knit 9 = 24 stitches.
ROWS 4-13: Work in the same way as row 3 (increase on each side of the middle 2 stitches) until there are 44 stitches.
Continue with garter stitch until the head measures 6½ cm = 2 1/2" from the cast-on edge – measured along the side.

NECK:
ROW 1: Knit 11, bind off 22 stitches, knit 11 = 22 stitches on the needle.
ROW 2: Knit 22.

BODY:
ROW 1: Knit 22 and cast on 22 stitches at the end of the row = 44 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit 44 and cast on 22 stitches at the end of the row = 66 stitches.
Work stripes as follows: * 3 ridges in color light beige, 1 ridge in color off white *, work from *-* two more times.
Continue with garter stitch in color light beige until the body measures approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4" from the 22 cast-on stitches on each side.

Place the first 33 stitches on a double pointed needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Fold the piece so the needles are on top of each other and the body is folded double.
On the next row knit all the stitches from the front and back needles together 2 and 2 = 33 stitches.
Now bind off for the legs as follows:
Knit 6, bind off 3 stitches, knit 6, bind off 3 stitches, knit 6, bind off 3 stitches, knit 6.

LEGS:
The piece is now divided for 4 legs, with 6 stitches on each leg. Change to color light brown and work each leg as follows:
Cast on 6 stitches and knit the first 6 stitches from the body, turn. Work back and forth over these 12 stitches as follows:
Work 3 ridges.
INCREASE 1: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 6, 1 yarn over, knit 5 = 14 stitches. Turn, knit (yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes).
Work 4 ridges.
DECREASE 1: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 4 = 12 stitches. Turn and knit back.
Work 1 ridge.
DECREASE 2: Change to color off white. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 3 = 10 stitches. Turn and knit back.
Work 2 ridges.
The leg measures approx. 5½ cm = 2 1/8", leave a strand-end of 20 cm = 8". Pull it through the stitches and tighten.
Work the other 3 legs in the same way.

TAIL:
Knit up from the right side 1 stitch in each of the outermost 5 stitches on one side of the body, then knit up 1 stitch in each of the outermost 5 stitches on the other side = 10 stitches. Work 6 ridges back and forth. Leave a strand-end of 20 cm = 8". Pull it through the stitches, tighten and fasten the strand.
Sew the tail together, in the outermost loop of the outermost ridge – see x in diagram A.1 and sew in the direction shown by the arrow.

EYES:
Embroider 1 eye on each side of the head. Use color black and work a French knot - see diagram A and picture of the dog.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seam under the head/nose – see black star in diagram A.1 and sew in the direction shown by the arrow. Sew the cast-on edge together on top of the head - see white star in diagram A.1 and sew in the direction shown by the arrow. Fill with wadding as you go and continue to sew down the back of the head and along the back to the tail. Fold the ear double and use the strand-end to sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, bottom up; the ear should not be filled with wadding. Sew the cast-on stitches at the beginning of the ear to the inside of the ear. Sew the body together from the tail to the legs - see square in diagram A.1 and sew in the direction shown by the arrow. Fold the leg double, use the strand-end and sew together in the outermost loop of the outermost ridge, bottom up - fill the leg with wadding as you go. Sew the cast-on stitches at the beginning of the leg to the first stitches on the leg. Repeat for the other legs.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = seam on tail
symbols = seam under head/nose
symbols = seam on top of head, back of head and along back
symbols = seam along back of body
symbols = French knot, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and up to the right side where you would like the French knot to be positioned.
PICTURE 2: Wind the strand around the end of the needle 2 to 4 times – depending on how big you wish the knot to be.
PICTURE 3: Thread the needle down, 0.5-1 stitches away from where the strand came up and pull it out on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Pulling the strand through the material fastens the French knot. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 43-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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