DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester |
1.15 £ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester 1.15 £ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side | |
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle | |
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Midsummer's Day |
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Knitted top / singlet in DROPS Cotton Light. Piece is knitted bottom up with relief pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 232-24 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes): Decrease inside the outermost 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches in each side. FROM RIGHT SIDE: DECREASE AT BEGINNING OF ROW AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches rib as explained in pattern, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked DECREASE AT END OF ROW AS FOLLOWS: Knit until 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches remain on row, knit 2 together, knit 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches rib as explained in pattern. FROM WRONG SIDE: DECREASE AT BEGINNING OF ROW AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches rib as explained in pattern, purl 2 together. DECREASE AT END OF ROW AS FOLLOWS: Knit until 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches remain on row, purl 2 twisted together, knit 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches rib as explained in pattern. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Piece is worked back and forth, bottom up in 2 equal parts. Sew the piece together on shoulders and in the sides as explained in pattern. FRONT PIECE: Cast on 101-109-121-133-147-161 stitches on single pointed needles size 3.5 mm with DROPS Cotton Light. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib back and forth like this for 6 cm. When rib has been worked, knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 13-13-15-17-19-21 stitches evenly (do not decrease over the outermost 2 stitches in each side) = 88-96-106-116-128-140 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Switch to single pointed needles 4 mm. Then work as follows: 2 stitches in garter stitch, 5-4-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 7-8-9-10-11-12 times, A.2, 5-4-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm, work rib in each side as explained below before casting off for armholes – if the relief pattern meets with the rib and decrease for armholes, work stocking stitch over these stitches instead of cable. Work first row as follows from right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* 3-4-6-6-8-8 times in total, continue pattern as before until 8-10-14-14-18-18 stitches remain on needle, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* 3-4-6-6-8-8 times in total, 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm, cast off 3-5-7-7-9-9 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the 2 next rows = 82-86-92-102-110-122 stitches. Then cast off for sleeve as explained below. ARMHOLE: Continue pattern back and forth as before with 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches rib and 1 stitch in garter stitch at the edge in each side (remember that if relief pattern meets rib when decreasing, work stocking stitch over these stitches instead of cable). AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side begin decrease for armhole - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease 1 stitch in each side on every row (both from right and wrong side) 0-0-3-7-11-19 times in total, then decrease 1 stitch in each side every other row (every row from right side) 7-8-6-6-4-1 times in total = 68-70-74-76-80-82 stitches. Now work rib over all stitches, but adjust so that at least 3 rows in stocking stitch have been worked after a row with relief pattern and that last row is from wrong side – increase in addition 1 stitch on last row = 69-71-75-77-81-83 stitches. Switch to single pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work as follows from right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, knit 1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib back and forth like this for 4 cm. Now cast off for neck as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches rib as before, then slip these 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches on a thread for strap, cast off the next 43-45-45-47-47-49 stitches for neck, work 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches rib as before and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Then work straps as explained below. STRAP: = 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches. Work rib back and forth as before with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side, until 1 row remain before piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from cast-on edge. Try the front piece and work to desired length. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 4 stitches evenly = 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches. Cast off by purling from wrong side. Work the other strap the same way. BACK PIECE: Cast on the same number of stitches as on front piece, and work the same way as front piece. ASSEMBLY: Sew strap together inside cast-off edge at the top of shoulders. Sew side seams – being at the top by armhole and sew in outer loops of edge stitch to get a flat seam, stop when 6 cm remain at the bottom in each side (vents). |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11582 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (31)
Marita Katsaounis wrote:
I just want to know if this is the whole pattern and where can I find the whole pattern because I don’t see you mention where to apply diagrams A.1 and A.2. Please let me know. Thank you so much!
01.04.2024 - 16:23DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marita, the whole pattern is on the page. You should start to knit the A.1 and A.2 pattern on the body, right after you switch to the 4 mm single pointed needles. See: "Then work as follows: 2 stitches in garter stitch, 5-4-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 7-8-9-10-11-12 times, A.2, 5-4-4-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern." I hope this helps. Happy Knitting.
01.04.2024 - 16:37Brenda Monks wrote:
Explain what you mean by 1ridge vertically =knit 2rows ?what I do you mean by a ridge is that a row of knitting my ? Comes from pattern Midsummers day
17.04.2023 - 05:00DROPS Design answered:
Hi Brenda, 1 ridge is 2 knitted rows. Happy crafting!
17.04.2023 - 06:40Christelle wrote:
Bonjour, Peut-on réaliser cet ouvrage en circulaire svp ? Merci pour tous ces superbes modèles et vos réponses toujours rapides.
19.02.2023 - 20:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christelle, probablement, notez qu'ici nous avons 6 cm de fente de chaque côté, il vous faudra commencer séparément, puis joindre et diviser de nouveau après les emmanchures. Bon tricot!
20.02.2023 - 10:12Mima wrote:
Can you please explain what this means? thanks. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time.
17.11.2022 - 03:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mima, this doesn't apply to this pattern, correct? I couldn't find this sentence here - but this means to cast off the stitches for neck at the beginning of each row starting from neck (it might be either from RS or from WS depending on the shoulder you are working on): first 2 sts then 1 stitch at the beg of next row starting from neck. Happy knitting!
17.11.2022 - 10:13Alba wrote:
Hello, when it says to seam in the outer loops of edge stitch, is there a special technique to use or do you just adapt something like the invisible side seam or matress stitch?
16.11.2022 - 18:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alba, you can yes, or then sew the outermost loop of garter stitche edges on each side as shown in this video. Happy assembly!
17.11.2022 - 09:59May wrote:
Hello i find this instruction confusing: Now work rib over all stitches, but adjust so that at least 3 rows in stocking stitch have been worked after a row with relief pattern and that last row is from wrong side – increase in addition 1 stitch on last row = 69-71-75-77-81-83 stitches. . What does all stitches mean? And what is atleast 3 rows in stocking stitch mean. And where specifically will I put the additional stitch on last row
17.09.2022 - 02:17DROPS Design answered:
Hello May! Knit 3 rows after a row with a relief pattern, on the last row (which is on the wrong side) increase 1 stitch anywhere in the row, then start knitting rib = 69-71-75-77-81-83 stitches in on the row. Happy knitting!
17.09.2022 - 10:43May wrote:
Can i get clarification from this instruction: if relief pattern meets rib when decreasing, work stocking stitch over these stitches instead of cable what is relief pattern and when does the decrease happen? thanks!
15.09.2022 - 09:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear May, the relief pattern is the pattern worked following the diagrams, when decreasing for armholes, you will also decrease some stitches that cannot be worked anymore in the pattern, then just work these stitches in stocking stitch instead. Happy knitting!
15.09.2022 - 13:13Roz wrote:
Regarding the straps on the front piece Page 4 I started the first strap in ribbing on 13 stitches I don’t understand what you mean by “try the front piece and work to desired length”
12.09.2022 - 08:23DROPS Design answered:
Dear Roz, you work the strap over 13 sts (in first 2 sizes) until 1 row remains before piece measures ca 40-42 cm (see size), then adjust this length depending on your own body working more or less rows on the strap. Happy knitting!
12.09.2022 - 11:59Ana Billenness wrote:
If this is not knitted in the round, when you get to the last 3 stitches, k1 and then garter, it ends up being 3 garter. Or do you meant second row, we would p and then garter?
28.07.2022 - 11:24DROPS Design answered:
Hi Ana, Yes, on the right side you have 3 knitted stitches on each side but on the wrong side the last stitch in the rib is purled and there are 2 knitted edge stitches (which is the definition of garter stitch, knitted on all rows). Happy crafting!
29.07.2022 - 06:58Amparo wrote:
Cuando dice en el patrón al principio que se empieza por el derecho con dos puntos en PUNTO MUSGO, ¿que quiere decir? Yo he entendido que el punto musgo es hacer todo del derecho, tanto por el la parte derecha como por la izquierda ¿no es así?
15.07.2022 - 17:05DROPS Design answered:
Hola Amparo, sí, significa que esos dos puntos se trabajan siempre de derecho.
20.07.2022 - 17:39