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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 231
  6. 9

Wishing Well by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, jumper, lace, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down, zigzag

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DROPS 231-9
DROPS Design: Pattern z-957
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 3112, dusty pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 03, light pink

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 3.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk 		from 4.40 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.40 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 4.40 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.85£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK/YOKE:
Cast on 84-84-90-90-96-96 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk and 1 strand DROPS Alpaca. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker! The round starts in the transition between the left shoulder and the back piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the next round increase 1 stitch at the end of each purled section by making 1 yarn over. On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted = 126-126-135-135-144-144 stitches. Continue the new rib (knit 1, purl 2) until the neck measures 5 cm.
Knit 1 round where you increase 14-14-33-33-52-52 stitches evenly spaced = 140-140-168-168-196-196 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 round.
Work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been completed in height there are 252-252-280-280-308-308 stitches. The piece measures 26-26-29-29-33-33 cm from the marker.

Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 72-72-80-80-88-88 stitches (back piece), place the next 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 72-72-80-80-88-88 stitches (front piece), place the next 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve). The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 156-160-176-180-196-204 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round and increase 0-2-0-8-10-24 stitches evenly on the first round = 156-162-176-188-206-228 stitches. When the piece measures 16-18-17-19-17-19 cm from the division, work the next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-8-10-10-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-68-70-76-80 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10-14 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and work 3-4-4-5-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 54-54-60-66-66 stitches and 3-4-4-5-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch. When A.2 has been completed in height continue with stocking stitch over all stitches.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3½-2½-2½-1½-1½ cm a total of 8-8-10-10-12-13 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 30-31-28-29-25-26 cm from the division. Work the next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 36-37-34-35-31-32 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 231-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Jane Heilmann wrote:

Jeg strikker str XL. Når jeg begynder på mønster har jeg iflg. opskriften 168 masker. Det stemmer ikke med mønsteret, som er 20 masker. Kommer det ikke til at se underligt ud bag på, at der kun er dele af et mønster hele vejen ned ??

24.03.2023 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Ja, du har 168 masker når du skal starte på A.1, men når du starter på diagrammet, starter du nederst til høyre. Og da har bare idagrammet12 masker (168/12= 14 rapporter av M.1). Når du er ferdig med diagrammet i høyden består hver rapport av diagrammet av 20 masker (x 14 rapporter = 280 masker når M.1 er ferdig strikket i høyden). mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 kl. 13:20

country flag Louise wrote:

Just after the buttonhole in the neck/yoke it says inc. one stitch at the end of each purled section by making 1 yarn over. Where is the purled section? It does not mean every 2nd purled stitch .,,,,,what does it mean? How is that row knit to increase from 101 stitch to146? I have not knit a "purled section"

02.03.2023 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Louise, you are working the jacket, right? Youwill then increase like this: 5 front band sts, *K1, P1, increase 1*, repeat from *-* a total of 45 times and end with K1, 5 front band sts, then work (seen from RS); K1, P2 - you have increased 1 stitch in every P-section and you have increased 45 sts so that you have now 101+45=146 sts. Happy knitting!

02.03.2023 kl. 16:42

country flag Maren wrote:

Unnskyld meg, men det er ikke mulig å forstå oppskriften. Jeg tror at bildet for a1 er opp-ned. Det er forvirrende når bilder er oppover mens man strikker nedover. Feilen er kanskje at det ikke står noe sted at man skal begynne med 10 masker. Kan dere fikse dette?

21.02.2023 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maren. Man leser et strikkediagram motsatt av slik man normalt leser: Fra høyre mot venstre, nedenfra og opp. Du begynner altså nederst i det høyre hjørnet, og jobber deg mot venstre og oppover. Gjelder uansett om plagget strikkes ovenfra og ned eller nedenifra og opp. Om man er usikker på hvordan man leser en oppskrift, så klikk på: TIPS & HJELP - DROPS Leksjoner - Les en oppskrift - Hvordan lese strikkediagrammer. mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2023 kl. 13:21

country flag Laetitia wrote:

Bonjour, Pourriez-vous indiquer l\'aisance nécessaire à prendre en compte pour le choix de la taille svp ? Merci !

12.02.2023 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laetitia, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, c'est ainsi le meilleur moyen pour trouver votre taille (et l'aisance) idéale - voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 kl. 11:00

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, J’ai décelé une erreur dans la grille A1 et A2. La maille envers en début de chaque section de mailles devrait être tricotée à l’endroit tous les rangs pairs pour suivre le même joli détail que dans la version cardigan. Il a été omis qu’ici on tricote en rond et non en aller-retour comme la version cardigan. Dommage…j’ai dû refaire au complet!

10.12.2022 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, la 1ère maille des diagrammes A.1 et A.2 doit être une maille tricotée à l'envers tous les tours, car on tricote ici en rond. Pour le gilet que l'on tricote en rangs, vous tricotez cette maille en jersey envers (donc à l'endroit sur l'envers), mais quand on tricote en rond pour le pull, cette maille jersey envers se tricote à l'envers tous les tours. Bon tricot!

12.12.2022 kl. 10:29

country flag MRS A J WILLIAMSON wrote:

Hello Please Help!! I am totally struggling to work out how much yarn I would need to knit this is C group. I need size L or XL. Could you please let me know how much in metres and yards I would need. Thank you.

30.11.2022 - 12:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williamson, this lesson explains how to calculate the new amount of yarn, refer to the section called 2 strands of different meterage to 1 strand.; Remember your DROPS Store can also help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

30.11.2022 kl. 16:55

country flag Beatrice wrote:

Buongiorno, i gettati di A1 e A2 vanno lavorati a ritorto o normalmente?

26.10.2022 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Beatrice i gettati di A.1 e A.2 si lavorano come indicati nei ferri successivi del diagramma e cioè a diritto. Buon lavoro!

26.10.2022 kl. 19:10

country flag Helle wrote:

Ærmerne: De 6 masker (str.S) der er samlet op, skal de strikkes i glat hele vejen ned ad ærmet, eller skal de indgå i mønsteret??

25.10.2022 - 06:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, de skal strikkes i glatstrik, start ved mærketråden strik 3 m glatstrik A.2 over de næste 54 ..... :)

26.10.2022 kl. 08:34

country flag Inge wrote:

Undskyld mig, at jeg nu skriver igen. De 6 masker der skal slås op efter deling , står jo skal være under ærmet. Forstår ikke hvordan I kan få de156 masker plus 2 nye (str M) til at blive 162. Betyder det at der skal slås 6 nye masker op i stedet for 2 eller hvad? Og med hensyn til ærmet skal det også her slås 6 masker op så de 54 bliver til 60 masker?

14.10.2022 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inge. Det legges opp nye masker under ermet, men ikke på selve ermet. De nye maskene tilhører ryg&bakstykket. Men når ermet skal strikkes, strikkes det opp nye masker i de 6 nye maskene som det ble lagt opp og disse maskene tilhører erme. Ta også en titt på denne videoen og ved tidspunkt : 07:00. Bluse strikket oppefra og ned Der settes maskene til ermet på 1 tråd og det legges opp nye masker. Disse maskene blir under ermet, men ikke på selve ermet. Se også ved tidspunkt: 11:16, her legges det opp nye masker til selve ermet. mvh DROPS Design

24.10.2022 kl. 10:43

country flag Inge wrote:

De 6 (str. S/M) der skal slås op efter deling. Hører de til ryg og forstykke eller hører de til ærmet.? 72 masker i ryg og forstykke giver 144 plus 2 gange 6 nye bliver 156, som i opskrift. Men når du går ned til ærmet som var 54 det bliver de efter opskriften også lagt til så der er 60 masker. De må enten skulle være under ærmet (ryg og forstykkket) eller gå med til ærmet. Jeg er virkelig i vildrede .

14.10.2022 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inge. I str. S har du 72 masker (bakstykket) + 6 nye masker + 72 masker (forstykket) + 6 nye masker = 156 masker når du skal strikke ryg & forstykke (de 6+6 nye maskene tilhører ryg & forstykke). I str. M har du 72 masker (bakstykket) + 8 nye masker + 72 masker (forstykket) + 8 nye masker = 160 masker når du skal strikke ryg & forstykke (de 8+8 nye maskene tilhører ryg & forstykke). Når du skal strikke ermene i str. S har du 54 masker og strikker opp 6 masker i de nye maskene under ermet = 60 masker. I str. M har du 54 masker og strikker opp 8 masker i de nye maskene under ermet = 62 masker. mvh DROPS Design

24.10.2022 kl. 10:15

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