DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Christmas Mice

Knitted Mouses Christmas decoration, with Nordic pattern and stripes in DROPS Fabel. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Extra 0-1548
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-485
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Circumference = 17 cm. Length = 13 cm without tail.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 115, light grey
50 g colour 114, light pearl grey
50 g colour 106, red
50 g colour 400 black

1 mouse weighs approx. 14 g without wadding

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

EAR:
* Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* in the same stitch until you have 13 stitches. Work short rows back and forth over these stitches as follows: Turn and purl until there are 2 stitches left, turn, tighten the strand, knit until there are 2 stitches left, turn, tighten the strand, purl until there are 4 stitches left, turn, tighten the strand, knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn, tighten the strand and purl to end of row, turn and cast off with knit from the right side, making 1 yarn over after every 2nd stitch to avoid the cast-off edge being tight (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches) = 1 stitch left. Continue as described in the text.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 11. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 11th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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MOUSE – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round from nose to tail, then filled with wadding. The tail is worked to finish.

HEAD:
Cast on 4 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and black DROPS Fabel. Divide the stitches, with 1 stitch on each needle (work with the 5th needle).
Work in the round as follows.
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 8 stitches (2 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 2: Knit (yarn overs always knitted twisted to avoid holes). Change to light grey.
ROUND 3: Knit
ROUND 4: * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 stitches (3 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 5: Knit.
ROUND 6: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 20 stitches (5 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 7: Knit.
ROUND 8: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 28 stitches (7 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 9: Knit.
ROUND 10: The eyes are worked on this round as follows: Knit 8 with light grey, knit 1 with black, knit 3 with light grey, knit 1 with black, knit 15 with light grey. Continue with light grey.
ROUND 11: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 5, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 36 stitches (9 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 12: Knit.
ROUND 13: Knit.
ROUND 14: The ears are worked on this round as follows: Knit 9, work the EAR in the next stitch – read description above, knit 7, work the second EAR in the next stitch and then knit to the end of the round.
ROUND 15: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 7, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 44 stitches (11 stitches on each needle).
ROUND 16: Knit.
Now you choose whether to work the jumper with a Nordic pattern or with stripes.

JUMPER WITH NORDIC PATTERN-1 (background colour light pearl grey, «spots» in red):
Change to red and knit 1 round. Work 1 round rib (= knit 1, purl 1). Change to light pearl grey and work 4 rounds of rib.
Knit 1 round with light pearl grey where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 48 stitches. Continue with A.1 (= 12 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.1 has been completed, work 2 rounds of rib with red. Work the back of the mouse as described below.

JUMPER WITH NORDIC PATTERN-2 (background colour red, « spots» in light pearl grey):
Change to light pearl grey and knit 1 round. Work 1 round rib (= knit 1, purl 1). Change to red and work 4 rounds of rib.
Knit 1 round with red where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 48 stitches. Continue with A.2 (= 12 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.2 has been completed, work 2 rounds of rib with light pearl grey. Work the back of the mouse as described below.

JUMPER WITH NORDIC PATTERN-3 (background colour red, pattern in light pearl grey):
Change to red and knit 1 round. Work 5 rounds rib (= knit 1, purl 1).
Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 48 stitches. Continue with A.3 (= 12 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.3 has been completed, work 2 rounds of rib with red. Work the back of the mouse as described below.
JUMPER WITH STRIPES-1 (ribbed edges in light pearl grey):
Change to light pearl grey and knit 1 round. Work 5 rounds rib (= knit 1, purl 1).
Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 48 stitches. Continue with A.4 (= 12 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.4 has been completed, work 2 rounds of rib with light pearl grey. Work the back of the mouse as described below.

JUMPER WITH STRIPES-2 (ribbed edges in red):
Change to red and knit 1 round. Work 5 rounds rib (= knit 1, purl 1).
Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 48 stitches. Continue with A.5 (= 12 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.5 has been completed, work 2 rounds of rib with red. Work the back of the mouse as described below.

BACK OF MOUSE:
= 48 stitches. Knit 1 round with light grey. Turn the piece inside-out and fasten all the strands. Turn the piece back and decrease as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 2, knit 2 together *, work from *-* a total of 12 times = 36 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit.
ROUND 3: * Knit 1, knit 2 together *, work from *-* a total of 12 times = 24 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit.
ROUND 5: Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 12 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit.

Fill the mouse with wadding.

ROUND 7: Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6 stitches.
ROUND 8: Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 3 stitches,
Work the tail.

TAIL:
Knit 1 row from the right side over these 3 stitches, with light grey. * Push the stitches back to the beginning of the needle, tighten the strand and knit the 3 stitches from the right side again *, work from *-* until the tail measures 10 cm. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitches, tighten and fasten well.

STIFFENING:
To make the ears stiff, they can be dipped in sugared water or colourless fizzy drink and dried in the right shape.

Diagram

symbols = red
symbols = light pearl grey
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Christmas Mice

Jane, New Zealand

Christmas Mice

Hanna-Kaisa, Finland

Christmas Mice

Amy, United States

Christmas Mice

Emma, Finland

Christmas Mice

Katrin Bauer, Germany

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Alysa wrote:

Gama Казино: Шанс на Уникальные Выигрыши казино гама

22.01.2024 - 17:10

country flag Wanda wrote:

If the pattern available in English

01.12.2023 - 03:22

country flag Kate Painter wrote:

I do not understand how to create the ears using a repetition of K1 Y over until you have 13 stitches. Do you turn the work and purl and work up to 13 stitches? It doesn’t look like that’s what you do in the photo of the finished item. Thanks so much! I’m stuck!

04.12.2022 - 06:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Painter, when you have the 13 sts for the ear on the right needle, turn and purl 11 sts, turn, knit 9 sts, turn, purl 7 sts, turn, knit 5 sts, turn and purl 9, turn and cast off the 13 sts making 1 yarn over after every 2nd stitch (1 st left). Happy knitting!

06.12.2022 - 09:24

country flag Kathy Bone wrote:

I do not understand how to make the ears. Is there a video tutorial explaining it better? Thank you.

11.11.2022 - 22:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathy, all relevant available videos are under the pattern; there is no specific video for the ears. The technique used is the short rows technique, which you can find a video for here: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=66&lang=en. Happy knitting!

14.11.2022 - 00:02

country flag Abbie D wrote:

Is there a way to make this pattern larger? I wanting to have the circumference to be 12in or bigger when finished. My grandmother made a mouse like this (but bigger) for me when I was a child, and I would love to remake it.

14.03.2022 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Annie D, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, but you can play with the tension and number of strands worked, for example try a swatch with 2, 3 or 4 strands, tension will be different and make the mouses larger/bigger. Your DROPS store can for sure also assist you (even per mail or telephone) if you need more help . Happy knitting!

15.03.2022 - 09:49

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, leider komme ich mit dem Ohr nicht klar. Wie genau strickt man das? Bei mir gibt das ein riesen Loch.

20.01.2022 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, ja ein Loch will unten an dem Ohr entstehen, aber bei der nächsten Runde, können Sie die Maschen extra enger stricken, oder am Ende dieses Loch zusammennähen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.01.2022 - 09:38

country flag Carmen-Gabriela wrote:

Oh ja, Danke! Der Hund ist hübsch. Nun habe ich eine Raupe bei Spielsachen (anhand ihres bebilderten Vorschlages beim Hund) entdeckt; diese ist auch süß als langes Zugluft-Tier. Prima!:)

23.12.2021 - 18:52

country flag Carmen-Gabriela wrote:

Wie süüüß:)! Ich könnte mir diese Mäuse in größer und länger gut als Zugluft-Mäuse vor die Tür vorstellen. Ich habe neulich einen liegenden Zugluft-Wichtel (= Zwerg) fertig zum Kauf gesehen, aber für 50,-- €!! Haben Sie Zugluft-Dackel, - Mäuse, -Zwerge oder ähnliches? - Sonst setze ich einer Schlummerrolle Ohren auf.

21.12.2021 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen-Gabriela, vielleicht kann Ihnen dieses Modell inspirieren? Hier finden Sie alles mit "Santa", einschl. Puppen; und hier finden Sie unsere Mäuse. Hoffentlich kann das Ihnen inspirieren! Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.12.2021 - 07:01

country flag Deleuze Françoise wrote:

Merci pour ce cadeau. Mes chats vont adorer ces souris en habits de fête. Mouche, Crevette et Louloutte.

07.12.2021 - 11:29

country flag Heidemarie Küspert wrote:

Hallo, die Weihnachtsmäuse sind sehr schön, leider fehlt aber das Diagramm. Es geht ja auch ohne zum Stricken, dann einfach in Streifen.

06.12.2021 - 08:45