DROPS / 222 / 43

Flower Harmony Vest by DROPS Design

Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Flower Harmony Vest / DROPS 222-43 - Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Flower Harmony Vest / DROPS 222-43 - Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Flower Harmony Vest / DROPS 222-43 - Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Flower Harmony Vest / DROPS 222-43 - Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Flower Harmony Vest / DROPS 222-43 - Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edges, embroidered flowers and French knots. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no st-003
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
The flowers measures approx. 4 – 4.5 cm in diameter.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 04, beige

For the flowers we have used:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
colour 01, white
colour 18, dusty pink
colour 19, peach

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 60-60-60-80-80-80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in size 3.5 mm.

SEWING NEEDLE: For embroidery.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 3.85 £ /50g
DROPS Soft Tweed uni colour DROPS Soft Tweed uni colour 3.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Soft Tweed mix DROPS Soft Tweed mix 3.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 111 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 13) = 8.3. 
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 7th and 8th stitch and each 8th and 9th stitch (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the row:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows at the end of the row:
Work until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 3 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

DECREASE TIP-3 (for neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the row:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease as follows at the end of the row:
Work until there are 7 stitches left, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 3 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth on circular needles. The piece is then sewn together. Edges are worked in the round on circular needle around the armholes and neck. When the whole vest is finished flowers and french knots are embroidered on the front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 111-120-129-141-153-168 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Soft Tweed. Work rib back and forth as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 13-14-15-17-17-20 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 98-106-114-124-136-148 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches are knitted). Continue with stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from the cast-on edge, cast off 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 86-94-100-110-120-132 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side; at the same time, on the next row from the right side, decrease for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 1-1-2-5-8-12 times, then every 4th row 6-8-8-8-8-8 times = 72-76-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Now cast off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the bottom of the armhole. Cast off with knit (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight). The piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 111-120-129-141-153-168 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Soft Tweed. Work rib back and forth as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 13-14-15-17-17-20 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 98-106-114-124-136-148 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches are knitted). Continue with stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from the cast-on edge, cast off 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 86-94-100-110-120-132 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side; at the same time, on the next row from the right side, decrease for the armholes – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 1-1-2-5-8-12 times, then every 4th row 6-8-8-8-8-8 times = 72-76-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm. Now place the middle 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by decreasing 2 stitches for the neck – read DECREASE TIP-3. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 5 times in all sizes = 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the bottom of the armhole. Cast off with knit (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight). The piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew the side seams from the armholes down, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start by one shoulder seam with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit up from the right side 105 to 120 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread) inside the 1 edge stitch. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3.
Work A.1 in the round for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Start at the side seam under the sleeve with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit up from the right side 144 to 168 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the armhole. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3. Work A.1 in the round for 3½ to 4 cm. Work 1 more round but in the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 repetitions and the last 6-6-7-7-8-8 repetitions of A.1 under the sleeve, decrease all purl-2 to purl-1 by purling the 2 stitches together. This gives a neater finish to the bottom of the sleeve edge.
Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

EMBROIDERY:
Flowers and French knots are embroidered at the top of the front piece.

FLOWER – SHORT OVERVIEW:
The flower measures approx. 4 - 4,5 cm in diameter.
A French knot is the middle of the flower. Chain stitches are worked around the knot.

FLOWER:
Start with a French knot – see diagram A and diagram explanation – worked with a single strand. Cut and fasten the thread.
This is the middle of the flower.
Then work chain stitches around the knot – see diagram B and diagram explanation – worked with double strand.
Work 9 to 12 chain stitches around the knot, each 1.5 – 2 cm long. Cut and fasten the strands.

Position the flowers as follows – the measurements are to the middle of the flower:
Flower-1 is worked at the top of the right shoulder, approx. 4 cm from the neck – use colour peach for the knot and colour white for the petals.
Flower-2 is worked approx. 9.5 cm further down the right shoulder than flower-1 and 7 cm from the neck – use colour white for the knot and colour dusty pink for the petals.
Flower-3 is worked approx. 6.5 cm to the right of flower-2 and 7 cm from the neck – use colour dusty pink for the knot and colour white for the petals.
Flower-4 is worked approx. 9.5 cm to the right of flower-3 and 4 cm from the neck – use colour dusty pink for the knot and colour peach for the petals.
Flower-5 is worked approx. 5 cm to the right of flower-4 and 5 cm from the neck – use colour white for the knot and colour dusty pink for the petals.

FRENCH KNOTS:
Embroider a group of French knots – see diagram A and diagram explanation – with a single strand of colour dusty pink.
Position the group of knots between flower-2 and flower-1 and 2 to 5 cm from the neck. Position another group of French knots between flower-4 and flower-5, 7 to 9 cm from the neck. Cut and fasten the threads.

Diagram

symbols = knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = French knot, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and up to the right side where you would like the French knot to be positioned.
PICTURE 2: Wind the strand around the end of the needle 2 to 4 times – depending on how big you wish the knot to be.
PICTURE 3: Thread the needle down, 0.5-1 stitches away from where the strand came up and pull it out on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Pulling the strand through the material fastens the French knot. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
symbols = Chain stitch, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and through to the right side where you would like the chain stitch to begin.
PICTURE 2: Insert the needle down through the hole the strand came up through, then to the right side again approx. 2 cm further on – allow the strand to lie under the point of the needle.
PICTURE 3: Now thread the needle through the piece and form a loop with the strand which comes up in the middle of the loop.
PICTURE 4: Insert the needle into the piece approx. 0.5 stitches in front of the loop and pull it through the piece.
PICTURE 5: The chain stitch is finished; if you want more stitches, start from Picture 1 again. Fasten the thread on the wrong side.
PICTURE 6: This picture shows vertical, horizontal and diagonal chain stitches, some starting from the same hole, some starting from separate holes.
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Sahar Taha 04.07.2021 - 12:15:

L follow your collections and l like them very much so when will your new collection for autumn and winter will apppear thanks

user icon DROPS Design 05.07.2021 kl. 02:18:

Dear Sarah, we will strat to make the new patterns available in August. Happy Sitching!

country flag Sahar Taha 04.07.2021 - 12:13:

L follow your collections and l like them very much so when will your new collection for autumn and winter will apppear thanks

user icon DROPS Design 05.07.2021 kl. 02:17:

Dear Sarah, we will strat to make the new patterns available in August. Happy Sitching!

country flag Nathania Christabel 19.06.2021 - 04:21:

Hello there! Will you please explain the meaning of "knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side" ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.06.2021 kl. 08:57:

Dear Nathania, the charts showing all stitches as they look from the right side, so certain stitches (like stockinett) are knitted from the right side, and purled from the wrong side. Knitting or purling a stitch means that it is knitted into the "back leg" of the the stitch so it is twisting as you let it off from the needle. Happy Stitching!

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