DROPS / 221 / 8

Dancing Diamonds Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Dancing Diamonds Cardigan / DROPS 221-8 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Dancing Diamonds Cardigan / DROPS 221-8 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Dancing Diamonds Cardigan / DROPS 221-8 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Dancing Diamonds Cardigan / DROPS 221-8 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Dancing Diamonds Cardigan / DROPS 221-8 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-063
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour 14, ice blue

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6 items in all sizes.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 2.3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch (approx.). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the front strand and purl in the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the back strand and purl in the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-4 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches) make 1 yarn over.
On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves): 
All increases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Decrease from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm. The remaining 5-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with approx. 8-8-8½-9-9-9½ cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd or 6th stitch, at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 122-122-134-146-155-155 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Flora. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Now work rib as follows:
5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 12-12-15-15-18-18 stitches, knit 1, purl 1 (= left front piece), work A.1a (choose diagram for your size) over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches (= left shoulder), purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 27-27-33-33-36-36 stitches, knit 1, purl 1 (= back piece), work A.1a over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches (= right shoulder), purl 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* over the next 12-12-15-15-18-18 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece).
A.1a is repeated in height. Continue this rib for 2 cm – adjust so the next row is from the wrong side. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. 
The next row is worked as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 14-14-17-17-20-20 and increase 6-8-3-7-8-8 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches - read INCREASE TIP-1, work pattern as before over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches, purl 30-30-36-36-39-39 and increase 10-14-10-16-19-19 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches, work pattern as before over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches, purl 14-14-17-17-20-20 and increase 6-8-3-7-8-8 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 144-152-150-176-190-190 stitches.

YOKE:
Insert a marker after the band – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition insert 4 other markers as follows – without working the stitches; the markers are inserted between 2 stitches rather than in the stitch and will be used when increasing for the shoulders.
Marker 1: Count 25-27-25-29-33-33 stitches (= left front piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 40-44-46-52-58-58 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
There are 25-27-25-29-33-33 stitches left after marker 4.
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards.

INCREASE FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS:
Read the whole section before continuing!
Continue with A.1b on the shoulders, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On the next row from the wrong side increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and increase AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3.
You increase on EVERY row, in a different way on the right and wrong sides, so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue the pattern and increase on every row a total of 22-22-27-27-29-32 times = 232-240-258-284-306-318 stitches (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase the piece measures approx. 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below.

INCREASE FOR SLEEVES:
Continue the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 18-19-18-19-18-16 times = 304-316-330-360-378-382 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 18-19-19-20-20-20 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now increase for the yoke as described below.

INCREASE FOR YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost sleeve stitches on each side. There are 61-63-61-69-67-63 stitches between the markers on each shoulder.
On the next row increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces and on the sleeves, the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 1-4-4-5-7-9 times = 312-348-362-400-434-454 stitches.
When all the increases are finished the piece measures approx. 18-20-22-23-25-27 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this continue working without further increases to the correct length.

Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows:
Work the first 48-53-53-59-66-70 stitches (= front piece), place the next 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 86-96-102-112-124-132 stitches (= back piece), place the next 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches (= in side under the sleeve), work the last 48-53-53-59-66-70 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 206-226-240-266-296-316 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 54-59-61-68-76-81 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 98-108-118-130-144-154 stitches between the marker threads on the back piece; allow the threads to follow your work onwards, they are used when decreasing and increasing in the sides.
Continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times = 186-206-220-246-276-296 stitches. When the piece measures 11 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm a total of 9-9-9-8-8-8 times = 222-242-256-278-308-328 stitches. When the piece measures 20 cm (4 cm left to finished length), increase 11-12-16-21-24-25 stitches evenly spaced = 233-254-272-299-332-353 stitches.
Work rib from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2*, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-85-93-103-109-113 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work pattern as before over the middle 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches. The other stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 6-9-12-14-15-15 times = 65-67-69-75-79-83 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 24-23-21-20-18-17 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders) – or to desired length (3 cm left to finished length).
Now increase 1-2-3-3-2-4 stitches evenly over the stocking stitches (stitches in A.1b worked as before) = 66-69-72-78-81-87 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work A.1a over A.1b, and rib over the remaining stitches (knit 1, purl 2). When the rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 27-26-24-23-21-20 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = Increase for saddle shoulders
symbols = Increase for sleeves
symbols = Increase for yoke
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Olaug Ekerhovd 12.05.2021 - 16:18:

Hei , skal printe ut mønster til Dancing Diamonds Cardigan , men det kommer ikke fram bilde eller symboler for mønsterstrikket . Det blir derfor umulig å strikke mønsteret . Kan dere forsøke å sende på nytt ?

country flag Nina Kubbe 11.05.2021 - 11:22:

Nach der Zunahme der Ärmel habe ich deutlich mehr Maschen zwischen den Makierern als 61. muss ich die Markierer gezielt so umsetzten dass es genau 61 sind? Die Zunahme verläuft dann jedoch an einer anderen Stelle, als die bisherigen.

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2021 kl. 13:29:

Liebe Frau Kubbe, in S sowie in L sollen Sie 63 Maschen für jede Ärmel haben, dh: 27 Maschen + 18 Zunahmen beidseitig = 63 M, dann legen Sie 1 Markierung in die 1. dieser 63 Maschen und 1 Markierung in die letzte dieser 63 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Tanja 25.04.2021 - 14:22:

Jag hittar inte när det är dags att byta från stickor 2,5 till 3. Är det på ökningsvarvet efter resåren i halsringningen, eller senare?

user icon DROPS Design 27.04.2021 kl. 09:26:

Hej Tanja. Du stickar resår med sticka 2,5 och slätstickning/mönster med sticka 3, så du byter till sticka 3 direkt efter resåren. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Alex Ly 10.01.2021 - 22:05:

Hazy day

country flag Jana 09.01.2021 - 16:50:

Sommerbrise

country flag Maria Do Céu Teixeira 08.01.2021 - 22:10:

Lavanda fresh

country flag Donna 08.01.2021 - 13:24:

Evening Breeze

country flag Anna Sarjanen 07.01.2021 - 21:40:

City chick

country flag Charlotte 07.01.2021 - 18:39:

Sommer regn

country flag Pascale Boyer 07.01.2021 - 17:50:

Joli, original et féminin. Emmanchure moderne.

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