DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Dancing Diamonds

Knitted jumper in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 221-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-086
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 24, light sky blue

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 5) = 2.8. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx each 3rd stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
BEFORE THE MARKERS:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the front loop.
AFTER THE MARKERS:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after either each 3rd or each 6th stitch, at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 114-114-126-140-146-146 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S, M and L:
* Knit 1, purl 2 * work from *-* over the first 12-12-15 stitches, knit 1, purl 1 (= ½ back piece), work A.1a (choose diagram for your size) over the next 27-27-27 stitches (= right shoulder), purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 27-27-33 stitches, knit 1, purl 1 (= front piece), work A.1a over the next 27-27-27 stitches (= left shoulder), purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 15-15-18 stitches. Continue this rib in the round for 2 cm (A.1a is repeated in height).

Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL:
*Knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 18-18-18 stitches, knit 1, (= ½ back piece), work A.1a (choose diagram for your size) over the next 33-33-33 stitches (= right shoulder), * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 36-39-39 stitches, knit 1 (= front piece), work A.1a over the next 33-33-33 stitches (= left shoulder), * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 18-21-21 stitches. Continue this rib in the round for 2 cm (A.1a is repeated in height).

The next round is worked as follows:
Knit 14-14-17-19-19-19 stitches and increase 5-7-5-7-9-9 evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, work A.1a as before over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches, knit 30-30-36-37-40-40 stitches and increase 10-14-10-15-18-18 evenly over these stitches, work A.1a as before over the next 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches, knit 16-16-19-18-21-21 stitches and increase 5-7-5-8-9-9 evenly over these stitches = 134-142-146-170-182-182 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker after 66-70-72-86-90-90 stitches (= approx. mid-front) – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below, without working the stitches and each marker is inserted between 2 stitches. The markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.
Marker 1: Start mid-back, count 19-21-22-26-28-28 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 40-44-46-52-58-58 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are 21-23-24-26-30-30 stitches left after marker 4 (= ½ back piece).
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS:
Read the whole section before continuing!
Continue working with A.1b over A.1a on the sleeves and stocking stitch on the front and back pieces.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of stitches on the shoulders remain the same.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 22-22-27-27-29-32 times = 222-230-254-278-298-310 stitches (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows.

INCREASES FOR SLEEVES:
Continue the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME, on the next round, increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are only increasing on the shoulders and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 18-19-18-19-18-16 times = 294-306-326-354-370-374 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 18-19-19-20-20-20 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now increase for the yoke as follows.

INCREASES FOR YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so each one sits in the outermost stitch on each sleeve. There are 61-63-61-69-67-63 stitches between the marker-stitches on the sleeves.
On the next round, increase 8 stitches for the yoke by increasing both before and after all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves and the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 1-4-4-5-7-9 times = 302-338-358-394-426-446 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 18-20-22-23-25-27 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working to the correct length.

Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work the first 42-47-50-56-61-65 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 86-96-102-112-124-132 stitches (= front piece), place the next 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 44-49-52-56-63-67 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 196-216-236-260-288-308 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the cast-on stitches under each sleeve. There are 98-108-118-130-144-154 stitches between the marker threads on the front and back pieces. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing and increasing in the sides.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times = 176-196-216-240-268-288 stitches. When the piece measures 11 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm a total of 9-9-9-8-8-8 times = 212-232-252-272-300-320 stitches. When the piece measures 20 cm in all sizes (try the jumper on and work to desired length; there is approx 4 cm left to finished length), increase 13-14-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced = 225-246-267-288-318-339 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2,5. Work rib (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP.
The jumper measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 65-73-77-85-89-91 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 12-12-16-18-20-22 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-85-93-103-109-113 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work pattern as before over the middle 27-27-27-33-33-33 stitches. The other stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 6-9-12-14-15-15 times = 65-67-69-75-79-83 stitches. When the sleeve measures 24-23-21-20-18-17 cm from the division, increase 2-3-4-4-3-5 stitches evenly over the stocking stitches (A.1b is continued as before) = 67-70-73-79-82-88 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work A.1a over A.1B and rib over the other stitches (knit 1, purl 2). When the rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 27-26-24-23-21-20 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = increases for saddle shoulders
symbols = increases for sleeves
symbols = increases for yoke
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Daniela wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, es gibt in der Anleitung einen Rechenfehler. Schlage ich für die Halsblende 126 Maschen bei Größe L an und verteile die nachher auf je 27 Maschen für die Ärmel, 33 Maschen für das Vorderteil und 15+18 Maschen für je ein halbes Rückenteil, sind das 120 Maschen. liebe Grüße

24.02.2024 - 05:17

country flag Conni wrote:

Man kan ikke vælge alternativt garn, det virker ikke har prøvet i flere dage Mvh Conni

07.10.2023 - 14:54

country flag Mme Soares wrote:

Que veut dire répéter au dessus des 12 premières mailles pour les tailles S M L il est écrit 1 m endroit 2 m envers répéter de *-* au dessus des 12-12-15 premières mailles

25.05.2023 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Soares, vous tricotez 4 fois *1 m endroit, 2 m envers*, soit 12 mailles au total en côtes 1m end/2 m env. Bon tricot!

26.05.2023 - 10:03

country flag Luísa Seabra wrote:

Sorry I´m wrong. It´s like you say.

29.04.2022 - 21:51

country flag Luísa Sofia Seabra wrote:

The instructions translation are wrong. In english: BEFORE THE MARKERS: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the back strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the front loop. AFTER THE MARKERS: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the front strand between 2 stitches from the previous round and knit in the back loop. and in portuguese is the wrong way what should be before the marker is after

29.04.2022 - 21:21

country flag Alcy wrote:

Hola, no entiendo el término 1 hebra entre 2 puntos. No sé cómo se tejen o qué se les hace a los puntos antes y después de la lazada que se crea. No entiendo tampoco el diagrama porque evidentemente la lazada abarca 2 puntos y no sé cómo hacerlo. Gracias!!

04.03.2022 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alcy, la lazada se trabaja entre 2 puntos, por eso se muestra entre 2 símbolos del diagrama (no abarca los 2 puntos). Por ejemplo, cuando se tiene un cuadrado blanco, símbolo de hebra y cuadrado blanco, significa 1 derecho, hacer 1 lazada y 1 derecho (por el lado derecho). Los puntos antes y después de la lazada pueden ser de diferentes tipos: 2 puntos juntos, derechos o reveses...

06.03.2022 - 12:41

country flag Louise wrote:

Jeg er nået til udtagning af bærestykke og skal flytte de fire mærketråde. Jeg har 306 masker i hele arbejdet, som jeg skal have, men jeg får 65 masker på hver af mit ærme, hvad har jeg gjort forkert?

07.02.2022 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Louise, det lyder til at det stemmer, hvis du har 1 mærke i 1.maske og 1 mærke i 65. maske, så har du 63 masker imellem maskerne med mærker i :)

09.02.2022 - 11:12

country flag Anne wrote:

In de Nederlandse versie lijkt de tip voor het meerderen-2 verkeerd vertaald? Bij het meerderen VOOR de markeerdraad moet de draad van achteren opgenomen worden, en bij het meerderen NA de markeerdraad juist van voren. (Dit staat in de Noorse, Engelse en Duitse versie.)

12.10.2021 - 23:34

country flag Theresa wrote:

Hallo sind die beiden Videos zu der sattelschulter Zunahme und der Ärmel zunahme das selbe ? Ich erkenne da keinen Unterschied wie sie die Maschen aufnimmt . Ich hänge gerade an der Ärmel Zunahme und komme überhaupt nicht weiter weil ich nicht weis wie ich das aufnehmen muss im Vergleich zu zuvor bei der Schulter Zunahme.

05.09.2021 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Theresa, wie man die Maschen aufnimmt wird hier das selbe sein, der Unterschied wird nur wo diese Maschen zugenommen werden; beim Sattelschulter haben Sie vor 1./3. Mark. und nach 2. und 4. Mark zugenommen, jetzt nehmen Sie nach 1. und 3. und vor 2. und 4. Markierungen. Kann das Ihnen helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.09.2021 - 07:36

country flag Ruth Leibbrandt wrote:

Is this a front button down Cardigan. Also is it waist length and can it be easily adjusted to be a little longer? I would like to knit it with your yarn but I need to have an answer to these two questions. I saw one picture where it seemed front buttoning but on another it did not seem like it. My eyes are not so good any more!! Many thanks.

12.07.2021 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, this pattern is a sweater (ppullover. There is a cardigan version of it HERE. Since this is a top down sweater / cardigan, you can easily adjust the length by adding some rows at the bottom. Happy Stitching!

13.07.2021 - 01:52