DROPS / 221 / 31

Sunshine Impressions by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and saddle shoulders. Size: S - XXXL

  • Sunshine Impressions / DROPS 221-31 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and saddle shoulders. Size: S - XXXL
  • Sunshine Impressions / DROPS 221-31 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and saddle shoulders. Size: S - XXXL
  • Sunshine Impressions / DROPS 221-31 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and saddle shoulders. Size: S - XXXL
  • Sunshine Impressions / DROPS 221-31 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and saddle shoulders. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern ml-067
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 14, vanilla

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size.
If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 76 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 11.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 11th stitch, and do not increase over bands. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

INCREASE TIP-2 (from right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (from wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 3-4 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 9-9½-8½-8½-9-9 cm apart.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down.
On yoke increase stitches out for shoulder, then increase stitches out for sleeve and finally increase stitches for yoke.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth, top down.
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-76-80-80-84-84 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 stitches in, GARTER STITCH – read description above * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 stitches in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Continue rib back and forth for 4 cm, on last row increase 9 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 85-85-89-89-93-93 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm.

YOKE:
Insert a marker at beginning of row – MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
In addition insert 4 new markers in piece as explained below - this is done without working the stitches, and insert each of this 4 markers between 2 stitches. Use markers when increasing for saddle shoulder, and should be in another colour than marker in the neck to separate them.
1st marker: Count 18-18-18-18-18-18 stitches (= front piece), insert 1st marker before next stitch.
2nd marker: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from 1st marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker before next stitch.
3rd marker: Count 25-25-25-25-25-25 stitches from 2nd marker (= back piece), insert 3rd marker before next stitch.
4th marker: Count 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from 3rd marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker before next stitch.
18-18-18-18-18-18 stitches remain on front piece after 4th marker.
Move these 4 markers upwards when working; increase at each of these markers.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Read all of the following section before working!
Now work piece with A.1 over stitches on left front piece, A.2 over stitches on back piece and A.3 over stitches on right front piece (see diagram for your size). Work stitches on saddle shoulder/sleeve in stocking stitch. Work the 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase only on front pieces and back piece, and number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On next row from wrong side increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 4th and 2nd marker and increase AFTER 3rd and 1st marker – read INCREASE TIP-3.
I.e. increase on EVERY row, and increase differently from right and wrong side, so that stitches are placed nicely.
Continue the pattern like this, and increase the same way on every row (i.e. every row from right side and from wrong side) 12-12-14-14-16-16 times in total = 133-133-145-145-157-157 stitches (work the increased stitches in diagram A.1, A.2 and A.3). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase piece measures approx. 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm from marker by the neck. Then increase for sleeves as explained below.

SLEEVE INCREASE:
NOTE! Do not increase in size XXXL, move on to yoke increase in this size.
SIZE S-M-L-XL-XXL:
Work in stocking stitch on sleeves, and continue pattern the same way as before on body. When A.1, A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically, continue pattern upwards as before (A.4 shows 1 repetition of pattern), make sure that A.4 fits over stitches from A.1 to A.3.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP -2 and -3.
Now increase only on sleeve, and number of stitches on front pieces and back piece stays the same. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Increase like this on every other row (= every row from right side) 5-4-5-4-3 times in total = 153-149-165-161-169 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 14-12-15-13-13 cm from marker at the neck. Then increase for yoke as explained below.

ALL SIZES:
YOKE INCREASE:
Move the 4 marker from sleeve increase so that each of the 4 markers is in the outermost stitch in each side on each sleeve. There are 22-20-24-22-22-16 stitches between stitches with markers on each sleeve. On next row increase 8 stitches for yoke by increasing both before and after each of the 4 stitches with markers - remember INCREASE TIP-2.
Increase stitches on front pieces, back piece and on both sleeves, and work the increased stitches in A.4 on body and stocking stitch on sleeves.
Increase like this on every other row (= every other row from right side) 9-12-12-15-16-19 times in total = 225-245-261-281-297-309 stitches.
When all increases are done, the piece measures approx. 26-28-30-33-34-34 cm from marker at the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, work as before without increases until correct measurements.

On next row from right side divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 39-42-44-47-50-53 stitches (= left front piece), slip the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve, work 67-73-77-83-89-95 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve, work the last 39-42-44-47-50-53 stitches (= right front piece).
Then finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 153-165-177-189-205-221 stitches.
Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch and pattern as before, work stitches that do not fit the pattern in each side in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 18-18-17-16-16-18 cm from division, knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 1 stitch = 152-164-176-188-204-220 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work next row as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CAST-OFF TIP. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 40-44-48-52-54-54 stitches from stitch holder in one side on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve = 44-48-54-58-62-64 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Decrease on each side of this marker later.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP.
Repeat the decrease every 5-4-2½-2-2-2 cm 5-6-9-10-11-11 times in total = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches.
Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 28-27-26-24-24-25 cm from division. Knit 1 round while increasing 10-8-12-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm.
Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Nicole 09.05.2021 - 20:56:

For the saddle shoulder part, does the number of stitches stay the same when worked? or do we increase for the shoulder part too? On the wrong side do we increase? Do we increase on the same stitch we increased on for the right side? Also what do you mean by "I.e. increase on EVERY row, and increase differently from right and wrong side, so that stitches are placed nicely." Does it mean we always increase next to the markers placed?

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2021 kl. 22:15:

Dear Nicole, the pattern tells you that first you set up the yoke, then increase to shape the saddle shoulder. Yes, the increases are done in the same stitch, only done differently from the right and wrong side, so each increase would lean the same way afterwards. It always heps to make sense of the patterns to read them through, sometimes even several time, and make notes, so you can understand even when a couple of things happen at once. Happy Knitting!

country flag Elly 04.05.2021 - 13:17:

Goede middag, Ik vind het voor de groter maten niet duidelijk. Ik houd dus meer steken over bij het tweede tour fantasie breien. Logisch want ik heb er voor maat large ook 4 meer opgezet. Moet ik nu over deze steken geen patroon meert breien onder de mouwen? Vriendelijke groet Elly

country flag Nicole 23.04.2021 - 20:06:

If we increase after the second stitch, I have 26 stitches instead of 25. Do I just knit the extra stitch then do A.2? This is for the back increase.

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 07:15:

Dear Nicole, when increasing for saddle shoulders, you will increase before 1st marker = left front piece; After 2nd Marker + before 3rd marker = back piece and after 4th marker = right front piece. This means you increase 1 stitch on each front piece and 2 sts on back piece, after 1st increase for saddle shoulder you should have 27 sts for back piece between stitches with a marker. Happy knitting!

country flag Nicole 23.04.2021 - 19:19:

If we increase after the second stitch, I have 26 stitches instead of 25. Do I just knit the extra stitch then do A.2?

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2021 kl. 19:55:

Dear Nicole, Can you tell us, which increase it is? Happy Knitting!

country flag Marioli 07.01.2021 - 22:52:

Alegría de pimavera

country flag Anna Nieminen 07.01.2021 - 18:46:

Sunflower whisper

country flag Helena 07.01.2021 - 15:53:

Sunshine

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