Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knitting direction |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Grey Gosling |
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Knitted jacket worked sideways for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Baby 21-39 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. INCREASE TIP (applies to neck line): Inc by making 1 YO inside 2 edge sts in garter st. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes). NOTE: Work the outermost st in neck line a little tight so that the edge looks nice BUTTON HOLES: 1 button hole = Cast off 1 st and make 1 YO on next row over the cast off st. ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Front and back piece is worked in one, sideways from arm to arm. RIGHT SLEEVE: Loosely cast on 26-28-28 (30-30) sts (= bottom of right sleeve) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Work in Garter St - see explanation above. When piece measures 5 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts. When piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm, loosely cast on 27-29-34 (39-42) new sts at beg and end of row for front and back piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts. Continue to work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm from where the sts for front and back piece were cast on (piece measures 26-28-31 (36-41) cm from cast on edge at the bottom of sleeve). Work next row from RS as follows: K the first 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on needle (= front piece) and slip the remaining 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on a stitch holder (= back piece). Insert a marker in last row, now measure back piece from here. FRONT PIECE: = 46-49-56 (63-68) sts. Turn piece and cast off the first 6-6-6 (7-7) sts on row for neck. Then dec for neck line towards the neck every cm: 1 st 3 times in total = 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle. Work until width of front piece = 12.5-14-15.5 (17-18.5) cm. Now cast off for 5-5-5 (6-6) button holes evenly on next row – see explanation above, Note the hole at the top are cast off after 2 sts at neck edge. Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Cast off. BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm from last marker. Put the piece aside and work left front piece. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm. Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece on every cm 1 st a total of 3 times - see Inc.tips above. When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m. When all sts are inc for neck work pieces together - see BODY. BODY: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from back piece on to same needle as left front piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts on needle. Insert a new marker in the piece - now measure piece from here! Work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm. Loosely cast off at beg of the next 2 rows 27-29-34 (39-42) sts in each side = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts remain on needle for left sleeve – now measure piece from here. When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st in each side, repeat every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30) sts on needle. Loosely cast off when sleeve measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm (piece measures approx. 59-64-71 (82-93) cm from arm to arm). NECK EDGE: From RS pick up approx 40 - 50 sts around neck with 2 strands on needles size 5 mm/US 8. K3 rows back and forth, then cast/bind off loosely. ASSEMBLY: Fold the piece double at the shoulders and sew sleeve and side seams in one in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (113)
Constanza wrote:
Buenas tardes, estoy comenzando el patrón 1/3 meses. A los 5 cm hay que aumentar a cada lado. Qué tipo de aumento hay que hacer? Se puede aumentar después del primer punto de la corrida y antes del último punto? Muchas gracias de antemano :)
22.09.2024 - 14:21DROPS Design answered:
Hola Constanza, se aumenta 1 punto al inicio y al final de la fila, es decir, en cada lado. Se puede aumentar haciendo 1 hebra o de otra forma si se prefiere, asegurándose de que no queden agujeros.
23.09.2024 - 01:26Elly wrote:
Bij het linker voorpand moet je 58 steken opzetten. Daarna 3x 1 steek meerderen. Er staat dan heb je 68 steken maar volgens mij maar 61 steken. Die ik iets verkeerd?
11.07.2024 - 09:03DROPS Design answered:
Dag Elly,
De 7 steken die je daarna opzetten zitten ook bij deze 68 steken, dus dan klopt het weer.
11.07.2024 - 21:09Latha wrote:
The back is a lot smaller than the front the back measures 22 cms and the front is 30 cms? How do I fix the problem?
11.06.2024 - 04:38DROPS Design answered:
Dear Latha, back piece should be large enough, note that the 7 to 11 cm worked on back piece only are just for neck on back piece, then you put sts aside, work left front piece then when front piece measures 6 to 8 cm, cast on the new sts for neck turn and work next row from WS then cut the yarn and work then all sts for left front piece + back piece on same needle to continue left shoudler/left side of piece to the left sleeve. Happy knitting!
11.06.2024 - 08:20Nara wrote:
Thank you it looks like a fun knit to do
09.06.2024 - 03:22Sue Breetzke wrote:
I’m knitting this pattern for the second time after a few years. I remember last time having to adjust the width of the back as it was much narrower (24cm wide) than the two fronts (31cm wide) for the size I’m knitting. This time I’ve been really careful about measurements and find the same issue. Is this intentional? \r\nSue
28.03.2024 - 16:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sue, the back is somewhat narrower because of the overlap, due to th buttons/ buttonholes. Happy Knitting!
29.03.2024 - 08:11Annette Björkman wrote:
Jag stickar i storlek 98/104 och nu återstår endast vänster ärm. Nåt blir fel. Om man börjar minska 1 maska i varje sidan 11gånger redan efter 3 cm så kommer ärmen inte se ut som den andra. Minskningen borde väl rimligtvis bli närmare ärmsslutet. Eller
25.02.2024 - 12:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Annette, jo hvis du starter indtagningen når du har 3 cm og tager ind 11 gange på hver 2.cm, så er du på 23 cm og da strikker du de sidste 5 cm uden indtagning (som du gjorde i den anden side) :)
01.03.2024 - 14:53Anne wrote:
Wenn ich beim Linken Vorderteil 5 cm stricke und dann 3* je 1cm ejne Masche zunehme, bin ich doch schon bei 8 cm woe soll ich dann ab 7 cm 6 Maschen zunehmen . Und von 8+7 cm wäre ja dann auch wieder zu groß, oder?
25.02.2024 - 08:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anne, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe? Mit 34Reihen Krausrechts = 10 cm sind die 6 Zunahmenreihen für den Hals ca 2 cm = 7cm insgesamt; so am Ende der nächsten Hin-Reihe schlagen Sie die neuen Maschen an, stricken Sie die Rückreihe und dann stricken Sie beide Vorderteil + Rückenteil zusammen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
26.02.2024 - 09:09Annette Björkman wrote:
Är garnet 2-trådigt eller ska jag ha två trådar av garnet när jag stickar? Annette
29.01.2024 - 07:22DROPS Design answered:
Hej Annette, når vi skriver 2 tråde skal du strikke med dobbelt garn :)
31.01.2024 - 10:56Tracol Manuel wrote:
Bonjour, Pour les explications concernant le devant et dos, il est marqué « Placer un marqueur dans le dernier rang; le dos sera mesuré à partir du marqueur. »puis concernant le devant ensuite il est noté «Continuer jusqu'à ce le devant mesure = 12.5-14-15.5 (17-18.5) cm de large. », a partir de quel repère est prise cette mesure ? D’un marqueur comme le dos ou du début du rang ou on avait monté des mailles supplémentaires ?
10.05.2023 - 21:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mr Tracol, mesurez le devant à partir des mailles montées sur le côté pour le devant; mesurez le dos à partir du marqueur placé à la division (dernière phrase paragraphe manche droite. Vous tricotez d'abord le devant droit jusqu'à la fin (bordure devant); vous tricotez le dos pendant la hauteur d'encolure dos; tricotez ensuite le devant gauche séparément, puis vous le tricoterez avec les mailles du dos en attente pour l'épaule puis vous rabattre z les mailles de chaque côté pour la manche. Bon tricot!
11.05.2023 - 07:46Mona wrote:
Ich habe den Ärmel gestrickt und rechts und links die erforderlichen Maschen aufgenommen..von da ab weiss ich nicht weiter ..Problem, die Schulterpartie? Über die ersten Maschen stricken../ Wie entsteht die Schulter und wie beginne ich den Halsausschnit?t
07.05.2023 - 07:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Mona, wenn die Maschen beidseitig für das rechte Vorderteil und für das Rückenteil angeschlagen sind, dann stricken Sie die Schulterpartie bis zum Halsausschnitt, dann stricken Sie das Vorderteil bis zur Ende (die Maschen werden abgekettet), dann stricken Sie das Rückenteil bis zum Ende vom Halsausschnitt und legen Sie wieder still. Das linke Vorderteil stricken Sie bis zum Schulter separat dann stricken Sie beide Teile zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
12.05.2023 - 13:25