Greece

DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Past to Present

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down, at an angle with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 205-1

#pasttopresentsweater

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-042
Yarn group B + B or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 05, black
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 07, light sea green
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 11, hazelnut
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 01, white
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 19, brick

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Sky 05, 17, 08, 01, 14
B) DROPS Sky 05, 11, 06, 18, 07
C) DROPS Sky 05, 10, 12, 01, 13

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpers Striped Jumpers assembly free diagonal-knit round neck saddle shoulder stocking stitch stripes top down

DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 58 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES:
The stripes are worked in stocking stitch, top down as follows:
4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm (= approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 rounds/rows) with 2 strands light sea green
4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm (= approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 rounds/rows) with 2 strands hazelnut
4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm (= approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 rounds/rows) with 2 strands white
4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm (= approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 rounds/rows) with 2 strands brick
4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm (= approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 rounds/rows) with 2 strands black
Repeat these 5 stripes to finished length.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for mid front/back + shoulders):
Work to the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (marker in this stitch), 1 yarn over. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch (= holes). Increase a total of 8 stitches on each increase-round.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (marker in this stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a ½-size larger needle.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The illustrations show how to work the pieces back and forth.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. Then the piece is divided mid front/back and continued in 2 sections back and forth, finishing by working rib in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. Then they are divided mid top/underneath and finished working back and forth in one section (= underside of sleeve). The rib is worked in the round to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 58-60-62-64-68-72 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 2 strands black. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 10-8-14-12-16-12 evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 68-68-76-76-84-84 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
The next round is worked as follows at the same time as inserting 4 markers (allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing): Knit 1 and insert the first marker in this stitch (= mid top of shoulder), knit 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches, knit 1 and insert the second marker in this stitch (= mid back), knit 16-16-18-18-20-20 , knit 1 and insert the third marker in this stitch (= mid top of shoulder), knit 16-16-18-18-20-20, knit 1 and insert the fourth marker in this stitch (= mid front), knit the remaining16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and STRIPES – read description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase by all markers – read INCREASE TIP-2. Continue increasing every 2nd round a total of 22-24-26-28-29-32 times on each side of all 4 markers. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase there are 244-260-284-300-316-340 stitches on the needle (= 60-64-70-74-78-84 stitches between each stitch with a marker). The piece measures approx. 29-32-35-37-39-43 cm measured in the knitting direction from after the neck. Cut the strand.
The next round is worked as follows:
Place the first 25-25-29-31-31-31 stitches on 1 thread for half the sleeve, cast on 3-3-4-4-5-5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 73-81-85-89-97-109 stitches (= back piece), place the next 49-49-57-61-61-61 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 73-81-85-89-97-109 stitches (= front piece), place the remaining 24-24-28-30-30-30 stitches on the first thread for the sleeve and cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on each shoulder and 1 marker in the middle stitch mid-front. Leave the markers where they are – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 156-172-184-192-212-236 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the first stitch on the round and 1 marker in the 3rd-3rd-4th-4th-5th-5th stitch of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches cast on under the other sleeve; allow these markers to follow your work onwards (= sides).
Continue with stocking stitch, stripes, increases mid back and front as before and, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches by each of the 2 new markers in the sides – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 4th row to finished length.
Work until the piece measures 13-13-13-13-11-7 cm mid front measured from the marker from the division (or continue to desired length; there is now approx. 5 cm left to finished length) – adjust so the last round is worked without either increases or decreases. Cut the strand.
Place the mid-back-stitch (with the marker) + the stitches as far as the mid-front-stitch (with the marker) on 1 thread (= half back piece + half front piece); these stitches will be worked later. You now have half the front piece and half the back piece on the needle.

HALF FRONT/BACK PIECE:
See illustration A.1 for this section. Start from the right side and cast off the stitch with the marker mid front/mid back. Continue with stocking stitch, stripes and decreasing in the side – AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row. Continue like this until there are 3 stitches left, cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well.

HALF FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Place the stitches from the thread on circular needle size 7 mm and work in the same way as the first half front/back piece.

BOTTOM EDGE:
Start on one side and knit up 156-168-180-196-216-232 stitches along the whole bottom edge with circular needle size 6 mm and 2 strands black (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4) – knit up inside the cast-off edge so all casting-off is hidden. Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Place the 49-49-57-61-61-61 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 7 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-54-64-68-70-70 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the 3rd-3rd-4th-4th-5th-5th stitch in the 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches under the sleeve and allow the marker to follow your work onwards.
Continue with stocking stitch, stripes and increases mid top of sleeve as before, AT THE SAME TIME decrease by the marker under the sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2nd round to finished length.
Work until the piece measures approx. 23-21-20-18-14-9 cm mid top of sleeve, measured from the marker from the division (or continue to desired length; there is approx. 5 cm left to finished length) – adjust so the last round is worked without either increases or decreases. Now work back and forth – see illustration A.2 for this section. Start from the right side and cast off the stitch with the marker on top of sleeve. Continue with stocking stitch, stripes and decrease by the marker mid under sleeve – AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row. Continue like this until there are 3 stitches left, cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

CUFF:
Start mid under sleeve and knit up approx. 52-56-64-64-68-72 stitches along the whole bottom edge with double pointed needles size 6 mm and 2 strands black (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4) – knit up inside the cast-off edge so all casting-off is hidden. Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

	= knitting direction
	= mid front
	= mid back
	= mid top of sleeve

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Anna wrote:

Es precioso! muy original y la combinación de colores atrevida y acertadísima! éste invierno lo luzco seguro!! Muchas gracias!

26.08.2019 - 16:25

Helena wrote:

Vilken färg har ni använt? 09 röd tegelsten eller 19 Aprikos

16.08.2019 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Vi har använt nr 19, tegelsten. Mvh DROPS Design

19.08.2019 - 12:04

Kjersti Stenstad wrote:

Denne er jo helt lik Lene Samsøe sin Rainbow genser....

12.08.2019 - 22:05

Janet Tveiten wrote:

Jeg vil svært gjerne kjøpe dette mønsteret så fort som mulig.Håper drt går an

08.08.2019 - 22:58

Carmen wrote:

Sehr nah am Original einer anderen Designerin dessen Anleitung schon seit Jahren online ist !!!!!! Hier sind nur die Bündchen "neu" dazugekommen !!

02.08.2019 - 08:42

Jeg likte denne veldig godt.Vil gjerne ha opskrift

30.07.2019 - 21:05

Rosy wrote:

Très beau modèle, les diagonales font une belle silhouette.

29.07.2019 - 08:43

Monica wrote:

Vill ha!

16.07.2019 - 23:16

Marie Louise Hebert wrote:

Je ferai ce modèle de tricot sans aucun doute. Merci

15.07.2019 - 15:23

Geneviève wrote:

Un beau mariage de couleurs

15.07.2019 - 09:08

Past to Present

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down, at an angle with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 205-1

Comments / Questions (48)

Past to Present

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down, at an angle with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

@dropsdesign on Instagram

	DROPS Sky uni colour 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool	5.40 € /50g	Order
	DROPS Sky mix 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool	5.40 € /50g	Order

	DROPS Sky uni colour 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 5.40 € /50g Order
	DROPS Sky mix 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 5.40 € /50g Order