Fish Fables by DROPS Design

Knitted head band and wrist warmers in DROPS BabyMerino. Work the entire set with lace pattern and small cables.

DROPS 214-37
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-082
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100 g colour 42, north sea

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 42, north sea

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: For textured pattern.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

WRIST WARMERS:

S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 18-20 cm Length: 24-26 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 42, north sea

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: For textured pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm: For rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.35 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 30 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 4 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 5.2. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example knit approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together

PATTERN:
Head band: See diagram A.1.
Wrist warmers: See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to increase for thumb gusset):
Increase 1 stitch after marker on right wrist warmer and before marker on left wrist warmer.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted.
Work the increased stitches in rib, i.e. knit the first stitch, purl 2nd stitch etc.
Make every increase right after/right before marker so get a nice line along the increase.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth and sew together mid back.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 30-30 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm with BabyMerino. Knit 3 rows (1st row = wrong side). Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 5 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 35-35 stitches. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Knit 2 edge stitches, purl 31-31 stitches and knit 2 edge stitches.
Then work A.1 back and forth over all stitches until piece measures approx. 48-50 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Approx. 1 cm remain until finished measurements, try the head band on and work until desired length.
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 5 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 30-30 stitches. Knit 3 rows over all stitches. Cast off knitting from right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew piece together mid back inside cast-off edge/cast-on edge.

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WRIST WARMERS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in the round on double pointed needles, bottom up.

RIGHT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 52-56 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with BabyMerino. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/ purl 1.
When 5 rounds rib have been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm.
Work next round as follows: Work A.2 over the first 29-33 stitches (= inside hand), and knit over the remaining 23-23 stitches.
Then work as follows: Continue A.2 over the first 29-33 stitches, and work A.3 over the remaining 23-23 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 8-8 cm, begin increase for thumb gusset. Begin by inserting 1 marker after the first 5-7 stitches on round, i.e. after a knit stitch.
Then work as before, but on first round increase 1 stitch after marker - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every other round 12-14 times in total – work the increased stitches in rib as explained in increase tip.
When increases are done, piece measures approx. 15-16 cm from cast-on edge - NOTE: If the piece is shorter than this, continue in the round without increases until correct measurements. Try the wrist warmer on and work until desired length before slipping thumb stitches on a stitch holder.
Now slip the 12-14 stitches increased for thumb on 1 stitch holder = 52-56 stitches remain on needles. Continue in the round with rib inside hand and A.3 on top of hand.
When piece measures approx. 19½-20½ cm, work next round as follows: Work rib as before over the first 29-33 stitches, and knit over the remaining 23-23 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. On next round work rib in the round over all stitches - make sure to continue rib over stitches inside hand nicely.
When 5 rounds have been worked in total with rib over all stitches, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP!
Wrist warmer measures approx. 21-22 cm from top and down.

THUMB:
Slip the 12-14 stitches from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 3 mm, and pick in addition up 6-6 stitches in the edge behind the thumb = 18-20 stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 2-2½ cm. Knit 1 round over all stitches, and then loosely cast off by knitting.

LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 52-56 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with BabyMerino. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/ purl 1.
When 5 rounds rib have been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm.
Displace the beginning of the round 1 stitch to the right, so that the round starts with 1 purl, then work as follows: Knit 23-23 (= on top of hand), and work A.2 over the remaining 29-33 stitches (= inside hand).
Then work as follows: Work A.3. over the first 23-23 stitches, and continue A.2 over the remaining 29-33 stitches.
When piece measures 8-8 cm, begin increase for thumb gusset. Begin by inserting 1 marker before the last 5-7 stitches on round, i.e. Before a knit stitch.
Then work as before, but on first round increase 1 stitch before marker - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every other round 12-14 times in total – work the increased stitches in rib as explained in increase tip.
When increases are done, piece measures approx. 15-16 cm from cast-on edge - adjust length according to right wrist warmer.
Now slip the 12-14 stitches increased for thumb on 1 stitch holder = 52-56 stitches remain on needles. Continue in the round with A.3 on top of hand and rib inside hand.
When piece measures approx. 19½-20½ cm, work next round as follows: Knit the first 23-23 stitches, and continue rib as before over the remaining 29-33 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. On next round work rib in the round over all stitches - make sure to continue rib over stitches inside hand nicely.
When 5 rounds have been worked in total with rib over all stitches, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP!
Work thumb the same way as on right wrist warmer.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.01.2023
LEFT WRIST WARMER:Displace the beginning of the round 1 stitch to the right, so that the round starts with 1 purl, then work as follows: Knit 23-23 ...

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row/round work yarn over as shown in diagram (it should make a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = in the stitch below the next stitch work as follows: knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = work 3 stitches in stocking stitch
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Matei Loredana wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai terminé la mitaine droite et j'ai commencé la gauche, au début de modèle, il faut faire 23 maille à l'endroit et continue A2 sur les dernières 29 mailles, mais âpres les 23 maille le A2 commence avec une maille endroit sur une maille envers, les côtés change (ça veut dire que les mailles de A2 ne continue pas comme "en côtes",comme pour la droite. Merci d'avance. Vous avez des très jolies modèle et facile à suivre. Tout mes félicitations !!

26.01.2023 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Une correction a été faite - cf ci-dessous.

27.01.2023 kl. 16:14

country flag Loredana Matei wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai terminé la mitaine droite et j'ai commencé la gauche, au début de modèle, il faut faire 23 maille à l'endroit et continue A2 sur les dernières 29 mailles, mais âpres les 23 maille le A2 commence avec une maille endroit sur une maille envers, les côtés change (ça veut dire que les mailles de A2 ne continue pas comme "en côtes". Merci d'avance Vous avez des très jolies modèle et facile à suivre. Tout mes félicitations !

26.01.2023 - 21:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Matei, effectivement, une correction a été faite ici, on va décaler le tour d'une maille à droite juste avant de tricoter les mailles endroit, ainsi, les côtes continueront comme avant. Merci pour votre retour, bon tricot!

27.01.2023 kl. 16:14

country flag Eva-Maria Dewes wrote:

Liebes drops Team, wenn ich beim linken Pulswärmer zuerst 23 M rechts stricke (A3) und dann die 33M Rippen, geht das nicht mit A2 auf, weil nach den 23M A3 eine linke Masche kommt und A2 aber mit einer rechten Masche beginnen soll. Ist da in der Anleitung ein Fehler oder habe ich es falsch verstanden? Viele Grüße, über einen Hinweis würde ich mich freuen. Eva- Maria Dewes

08.04.2022 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dewes, über die 23 ersten Maschen stricken Sie zuerst rechts dann A.3, und die letzten 23 Maschen stricken Sie wie beim A.2, dh, (1 M links, 1 M rechts), von (bis) wiederholen und dann mit 1 M links enden, dh stricken Sie das Bündchen wie zuvor. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2022 kl. 07:35

country flag Annelie Runesdotter wrote:

Fråga kring pannband A1 drops214-37 Vad betyder lägg upp 30-30 maskor och öka 35-35? Enligt mönster sticka fram och tillbaka diagram A1 stickas då från höger till vänster och sedan nästa diagramrad från vänster till höger ? I beskrivning stör att youtube mönster är diagram A1 men på youtube är det diagram A3 som visas. Finns det youtube klipp på A1 med eller ? Mvh Annelie

13.11.2021 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annelie. Legg opp 30 masker (samme maskeantall i begge str). Strikk 3 pinner rett, strikk 1 pinne rett fra retten der det økes 5 masker jevnt fordelt = 35-35 masker (fremdeles samme maskeantall i begge str.). Neste pinne er fra vrangen og strikkes slik: 2 kantmasker rett, 31 masker vrang og 2 kantmasker rett. Neste pinne fra retten og nå strikkes du 1. rad av diagrammet (fra høyre til venstre), neste pinne vrangen og diag strikkes fra venstre til høyre. Det er ingen video til diagram A.1. Det skal være A.3 på videoteksten, dette er nå forandret. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på det. mvh DROPS Design

15.11.2021 kl. 11:05

country flag Joyce Sierhuis wrote:

Hoe brei ik in a3 de driehoek over 4 steken dank goor uw antwoord mvg

09.04.2021 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joyce,

De driehoek over 4 steken zijn de 2 laatste symbolen uit de lijst van symbolen, die je dus achter elkaar maakt.

11.04.2021 kl. 13:34

country flag Marina Romano wrote:

Hallo an das drops Team Wird das Stirnband (Drops 214-37) komplett mit Nadel 2,5 gestrickt?

25.10.2020 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Romano, ja genau, das Stirnband wird nur mit Nadeln 2,5 gestrickt (oder die benötige Größe um die Maschenprobe (= 26 M x 32 R = 10 x 10 cm) zu haben). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.10.2020 kl. 13:05

country flag Aila Koskinen wrote:

Kysyisin piirroksesta A1. Heti aloituksesta 2oikein 2 nurin. Mitä sitten tarkoittaa kolmio neljän silmukan kohdalla? En ymmärrä kuinka tehdään? Anteeksi! Olisin kiitollinen vastauksestanne. Siis silmukat 5-8?

16.10.2020 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Tämä kolmio on oikeastaan 2 eri kahden ruudun merkkiä. Neulo ne seuraavasti: Ensimmäinen merkki (2 ruutua): Siirrä 1 silmukka apupuikolle työn eteen, neulo 1 silmukka oikein ja neulo apupuikon silmukka oikein. Toinen merkki (seuraavat 2 ruutua): Siirrä 1 silmukka apupuikolle työn taakse, neulo 1 silmukka oikein ja neulo apupuikon silmukka oikein.

19.10.2020 kl. 17:35

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile avere una foto dove viene mostrato il fatto che esiste il pollice? Inoltre un video che mostri come riprendere bene le maglie dal dietro del pollice visto che in questo modello non esistono maglie fatte a nuovo e in più è a coste. Grazie

08.10.2020 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea, inoltriamo la sua richiesta al settore design. Buon lavoro!

12.10.2020 kl. 10:35

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno. Sto lavorando lo scaldapolsi sx ed ho notato che si crea una sfalsatura nelle coste della parte interna seguendo la spiegazione, per evitare l'inconveniente bisogna fare una piccola modifica. Quando si iniziano le coste del bordino, invece di fare 1 dir/1 rov, bisogna fare 1 rov/1 dir così quando si divideranno le 23 e le 33 avremo un lavoro perfetto. Spero di essere d'aiuto.

07.10.2020 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. La ringraziamo per il suo contributo. Buon lavoro!

07.10.2020 kl. 13:23

country flag Dea wrote:

Buonasera, nella spiegazione degli scaldapolsi vi è scritto così "Quando il lavoro misura 8-8 cm, iniziare gli aumenti per il tassello del pollice...." , questi 8 cm sono da calcolare dal giro d'inizio o dall'inizio del diagramma A2 - A3? Grazie.

05.10.2020 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, se non diversamente indicato, le misure si intendono dall'inizio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

05.10.2020 kl. 19:17

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