DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
Highlight Size:
DROPS 211-13
DROPS design: Pattern w-796
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 62, sage green

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows seen from the right side!

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 58 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 14.5.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 13th and 14th stitch and every 14th and 15th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease as follows after A.5: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before A.4: Knit 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately until vent is done. Then slip the 2 parts on to same circular needle , and work in the round up to V-neck and armholes. Then divide piece for back piece and right and left front piece, and finish each part separately.

BODY:
Cast on 68-76-80-88-96-104 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, rib * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain on row, knit 2, A.2 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Work next row as follows: A.1 over the first 5 stitches, knit the next 58-66-70-78-86-94 stitches and decrease at the same time 4-6-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP-1, A.2 over the last 5 stitches = 64-70-76-82-90-100 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue back and forth with A.1 and A.2 in the side, and in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches until entire A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically = 60-66-72-78-86-96 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. Finish after 1 row from wrong side. Front piece up to where vent ends is now done. Cut the yarn and put piece aside. Work back piece the same way but do not cut the yarn when piece is done.

Now work the 2 parts together as from right side.
Begin to work over stitches on back piece as follows:
Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until 2 stitches remain on back piece, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), insert a marker thread here. Then work the same way over stitch on front piece = 116-128-140-152-168-188 stitches. There is now 1 marker thread in each side of piece. Move marker threads in each side when working, they are used later. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-34 cm from cast-on edge, work next round as follows: Knit the 58-64-70-76-84-94 stitches on back piece, knit 24-27-30-33-37-42 stitches, A.3 over the middle 10 stitches on front piece, knit 24-27-30-33-37-42 stitches.
Knit 1 round and A.3 over the middle 10 stitches on front piece.
Now slip the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on each side of marker thread in each side on separate stands of yarn (= 4 strands with 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on each). Slip the 42-48-54-56-64-70 stitches on back piece on a separate strand of yarn. Divide front piece in 2 so that half of the stitches (i.e. 21-24-27-28-32-35 stitches) is on a separate strand of yarn for right and left front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with a new ball Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 over all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with right front piece, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.4 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with right front piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.4 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.4. Finish after a row from wrong side, and work as before over the 21-24-27-28-32-35 stitches on the strand of yarn for right front piece (i.e. work from armhole and until middle of cable = A.3) = 26-29-32-33-37-40 stitches on needle.
Now work pattern, and decrease for V-neck and armhole as follows:
Work A.5 over the first 5 stitches, knit until 5 stitches remain, A.4 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease for V-neck and armhole - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for V-neck every other row 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, and decrease for armhole every other row 0-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 13 stitches. Now work A.6 over the last 13 stitches. When A.6 has been worked vertically, 8 stitches remain on needle. Repeat the last 4 rows in diagram (from row with arrow) until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-23 cm from the first decrease for neck - adjust to finish after a row that is next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together. Top measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5 over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with left front piece, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.5 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.5 back over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with left front piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.5 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.5. Finish with a row from wrong side.
Now work pattern, and decrease for V-neck and armhole as follows:
Work A.5 over the first 5 stitches, knit until 5 stitches remain, A.4 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease for V-neck and armhole - remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for V-neck every other row 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, and decrease for armhole every other row 0-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 13 stitches. Now work A.7 over the last 13 stitches. When A.7 has been worked vertically, 8 stitches remain on needle. Repeat the last 4 rows in diagram (from row with arrow) until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-23 cm from the first decrease for neck - adjust to finish after a row that is next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together. Top measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total.

BACK PIECE:
Edge around left armhole:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with a new ball Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 over all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with back piece, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.4 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with back piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.4 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.4. Finish with a row from wrong side.

Edge around right armhole:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5 over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with back piece, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.5 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.5 back over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with back piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.5 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.5. Finish with a row from wrong side.

Now work stitches from the strand of yarn for back piece together with the 5 stitches for edge along armholes from right side as follows: Work A.5 over the first 5 stitches, knit the 42-48-54-56-64-70 stitches from the strand of yarn for back piece, work A.4 over the last 5 stitches (= 52-58-64-66-74-80 stitches on needle), at the same time begin decrease for armhole – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for armhole every other row 1-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 42-46-48-48-50-52 stitches. Continue back and forth with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 9-10-11-11-12-14 cm from decrease for armhole.
Work 1 row from right side with knit over knit and purl over purl, and increase 0-0-2-2-0-2 stitches evenly (but not over the outermost 5 stitches in each side) = 42-46-50-50-50-54 stitches. Work 1 row in pattern from wrong side.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Now work rib as follows: Knit 3, purl 3. * Knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from right side, work from the second last row in A.7 over the first 8 stitches before slipping them on a strand of yarn (= strap), cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 26-30-34-34-34-38 stitches, work from next to last row in A.6 over the last 8 stitches on needle (= strap). Continue back and forth over these 8 stitches until strap measures approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm – adjust to finish after next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together.
Slip the 8 stitches from the strand of yarn back on circular needle size 5.5 mm and work last row in A.7 (= from wrong side). Then repeat pattern from row with arrow until strap measures approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm – adjust to finish after next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew straps together with grafting/kitchener stitches. Sew together cast-on edges in the side where 5 new stitches were cast on (A.5/A.4). Sew with grafting/kitchener stitches to avoid chunky seam. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.06.2020
Correction: One stitch added under BODY. Two diagrams changed fra A.3 to A.5 under BACK PIECE.
Updated online: 29.09.2023
The straps on back piece are worked also with needle size 5,5 mm

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = repeat pattern from this row
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Sabina wrote:

Non riesco proprio a capire come si deve fare questo top. O sono le traduzioni fatte male oppure le istruzioni sono fatte male. Peccato perché i modelli sono molto carini

20.06.2024 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sabina, può indicarci quale parte del modello non le è chiara? Buon lavoro!

20.06.2024 - 21:16

country flag Laurence wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nCombien de rang je dois faire en jersey pour les fentes après les cotes ? \r\nMerci beaucoup d’avance\r\nLaurence

01.04.2024 - 09:25

country flag Shelly Clement wrote:

Drops Seaside Spiral pattern 211-13 I am from Canada and have been knitting for over 40 years. I am finding this pattern with all the charts very confusing. Can anyone help me as I have had it for a few years & get discouraged each time I pick it back up as they are not clear to me. Thank you Shelly

05.03.2024 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Clement, this lesson explains how to read diagrams, this could help you. At the very top of the pattern, look at the tab "Video" to see 2 related videos to this pattern and how to work some of the diagrams. Happy knitting!

06.03.2024 - 08:10

country flag Crys wrote:

Très joli modèle et la laine est très agréable en 100% Coton. Par contre certaines explications ne sont pas faciles à déchiffrer

04.03.2024 - 14:39

country flag Alizée wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas ce passage du devant droit "Diminuer pour l'encolure-V 9-10-11-11-12-13 fois tous les 2 rangs, et diminuer pour l'emmanchure 0-2-5-7-12-14 fois tous les 2 rangs et 4-4-3-2-0-0 fois tous les 4 rangs = 13 mailles." En S, si je dois diminuer l'emmanchure 2 fois tous les 2 rangs, et aussi 4 fois tous les 4 rangs, que se passe-il au rang 4 ? je diminue 2 fois l'emmanchure ? Merci

10.01.2024 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alizée, vous devez diminuer simultanément pour l'encolure et l'emmanchure, mais pas toujours au même rythme, lorsque vous diminuez tous les 2 rangs pour les 2 côtés, diminuez tous les rangs sur l'endroit, mais lorsque vous devez diminuer tous les 4 rangs pour l'emmanchure, vous diminuerez alors alternativement 1 et 2 mailles: 1 maille pour l'encolure puis au rang suivant sur l'endroit, vous diminuerez 1 maille pour l'encolure et 1 maille pour l'emmanchure. Bon tricot!

11.01.2024 - 07:48

country flag Susanna wrote:

Buongiorno ho realizzato le spalline del dietro con i ferri 4,5 mm ma per le bretelle davanti non è specificato quando cambiare ferri. Io penso sia nel momento in cui ho 8 maglie, potete dirmi se è corretto? Grazie

12.08.2023 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Susanna, il modello è stato corretto: anche le spalline del dietro si lavorano con i ferri n° 5,5 mm. Buon lavoro!

30.09.2023 - 09:46

country flag Lene wrote:

Kan det passe at stopperne på bagstykket skal strikkes på pind 4,5 og på forstykket på 5,5? Eller skal jeg skifte pind efter jeg har strikket rib foroven bagpå? Jeg kan ikke se, at det står nogen steder. Jeg er nu igang med bagstykket og har strikket stropperne på forsiden.

01.08.2023 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, det er kun selve ribben som skal strikkes på pind 4,5, stropperne skal strikkes på pind 5,5 :)

07.08.2023 - 13:58

country flag Monique BOHER wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas la formule écrite des diagrammes .que veut dire par exemple ( A1 AU DESSUS des ( premières mailles ) je comprends tricoter 5 mailles puis tricoter selon diagrammes A1 et continuer le tricot et ainsi de suite.... idem pour les autres lecture de diagrammes... est-ce bien celà?

15.07.2023 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Monique, 'A.1 au-dessus des 5 premières mailles' veut dire que tu tricotes 5 premieres mailles selon le diagramme A.1. Bon tricot!

15.07.2023 - 17:00

country flag Svetla wrote:

Hello! Thank you for this sweet pattern. I don't understand the beginning of Left front piece - row 1 is A5, row 2 is A5, row 3 is A5 back. How is it possible two consecutive rows to be A5 (row 1 & 2)? For example for the Right front piece - row 1 is A4, row 2 is A4 back, row 3 is A4, row 4 is A4 back, etc. Should I do something in addition between row 1 and row 2 from the Left front piece? Thank you in advance!

20.06.2023 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Svetla, on left front piece you work first row in A.5 then work together the last stitch with the first 2 sts from left front piece, then on 2nd row (from WS), turn and work the 5 sts in A.5, then turn and work from RS the first 4 sts in A.5 and work together the last stitch in A.5 with the next 2 sts from the thread. Turn and work row 4 over the 5 sts. Continue like this working together the last st in A.5 from RS with the next 2 sts from armhole until the 8, 10 or 12 sts are all worked together with the last stitch in A.5. Happy knitting!

21.06.2023 - 08:04

country flag Martine Bernatchez wrote:

Est-ce voulu que les bretelles du dos soient tricotées en 4.5 alors que celles du devant le sont en 5.5? Aussi, est-ce que je dois couper le fil après avoir mis en attente la première bretelle du dos ? J’avais pensé continuer pour faire le rabattage et ensuite faire la 2e bretelle du dos, mais j’aurai quand même un fil à couper ou à reprendre au bout du compte n’est-ce pas? Merci encore pour votre aide.

14.06.2023 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernatchez, votre question a été transmise à nos stylistes, mais les mailles de la 1ère bretelle du dos sont d'abord tricotées, puis mises en attente, puis on rabat les mailles de l'encolure dos (entre les bretelles plus exactement), et on continue avec la 2ème bretelle, donc pas besoin de couper le fil à ce niveau là, juste quand vous aurez terminé la 1ère bretelle, il vous faudra couper le fil pour le joindre au niveau de la 2ème pour la continuer. Bon tricot!

15.06.2023 - 09:13