DROPS / 211 / 13

Seaside Spirals by DROPS Design

Knitted top with cables and V-neck in DROPS Paris. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern w-796
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 62, sage green

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows seen from the right side!

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 58 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 14.5. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 13th and 14th stitch and every 14th and 15th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease as follows after A.5: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before A.4: Knit 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately until vent is done. Then slip the 2 parts on to same circular needle , and work in the round up to V-neck and armholes. Then divide piece for back piece and right and left front piece, and finish each part separately.

BODY:
Cast on 68-76-80-88-96-104 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, rib * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain on row, knit 2, A.2 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Work next row as follows: A.1 over the first 5 stitches, knit the next 58-66-70-78-86-94 stitches and decrease at the same time 4-6-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP-1, A.2 over the last 5 stitches = 64-70-76-82-90-100 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue back and forth with A.1 and A.2 in the side, and in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches until entire A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically = 60-66-72-78-86-96 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. Finish after 1 row from wrong side. Front piece up to where vent ends is now done. Cut the yarn and put piece aside. Work back piece the same way but do not cut the yarn when piece is done.

Now work the 2 parts together as from right side.
Begin to work over stitches on back piece as follows:
Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until 2 stitches remain on back piece, slip 1 stitch knitwise, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), insert a marker thread here. Then work the same way over stitch on front piece = 116-128-140-152-168-188 stitches. There is now 1 marker thread in each side of piece. Move marker threads in each side when working, they are used later. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-34 cm from cast-on edge, work next round as follows: Knit the 58-64-70-76-84-94 stitches on back piece, knit 24-27-30-33-37-42 stitches, A.3 over the middle 10 stitches on front piece, knit 24-27-30-33-37-42 stitches.
Knit 1 round and A.3 over the middle 10 stitches on front piece.
Now slip the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on each side of marker thread in each side on separate stands of yarn (= 4 strands with 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on each). Slip the 42-48-54-56-64-70 stitches on back piece on a separate strand of yarn. Divide front piece in 2 so that half of the stitches (i.e. 21-24-27-28-32-35 stitches) is on a separate strand of yarn for right and left front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with a new ball Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 over all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with right front piece, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.4 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with right front piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.4 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.4. Finish after a row from wrong side, and work as before over the 21-24-27-28-32-35 stitches on the strand of yarn for right front piece (i.e. work from armhole and until middle of cable = A.3) = 26-29-32-33-37-40 stitches on needle.
Now work pattern, and decrease for V-neck and armhole as follows:
Work A.5 over the first 5 stitches, knit until 5 stitches remain, A.4 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease for V-neck and armhole - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for V-neck every other row 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, and decrease for armhole every other row 0-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 13 stitches. Now work A.6 over the last 13 stitches. When A.6 has been worked vertically, 8 stitches remain on needle. Repeat the last 4 rows in diagram (from row with arrow) until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-23 cm from the first decrease for neck - adjust to finish after a row that is next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together. Top measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5 over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with left front piece, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.5 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.5 back over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with left front piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.5 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.5. Finish with a row from wrong side.
Now work pattern, and decrease for V-neck and armhole as follows:
Work A.5 over the first 5 stitches, knit until 5 stitches remain, A.4 over the last 5 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease for V-neck and armhole - remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for V-neck every other row 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, and decrease for armhole every other row 0-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 13 stitches. Now work A.7 over the last 13 stitches. When A.7 has been worked vertically, 8 stitches remain on needle. Repeat the last 4 rows in diagram (from row with arrow) until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-23 cm from the first decrease for neck - adjust to finish after a row that is next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together. Top measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total.

BACK PIECE:
Edge around left armhole:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with a new ball Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.4 over all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with back piece, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.4 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Work A.4 back over the first 4 stitches, knit last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread so that the 5 stitches in A.4 are worked together with back piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.4 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.4. Finish with a row from wrong side.

Edge around right armhole:
Cast on 5 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with Paris.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.5 over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 1st and 2nd stitch after marker thread in the side (i.e. of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches on the strand of yarn), so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with back piece, turn.
ROW 2: Work A.5 over the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Work A.5 back over the first 4 stitches, purl last stitch together with 3rd and 4th stitch after marker thread, so that the 5 stitches in A.5 are worked together with back piece, turn.
Continue back and forth like this by working last stitch in A.3 together with the next 2 stitches along armhole until all the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches along armhole have been worked together with A.5. Finish with a row from wrong side.

Now work stitches from the strand of yarn for back piece together with the 5 stitches for edge along armholes from right side as follows: Work A.3 over the first 5 stitches, knit the 42-48-54-56-64-70 stitches from the strand of yarn for back piece, work A.4 over the last 5 stitches (= 52-58-64-66-74-80 stitches on needle), at the same time begin decrease for armhole – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for armhole every other row 1-2-5-7-12-14 times, then every 4th row 4-4-3-2-0-0 times = 42-46-48-48-50-52 stitches. Continue back and forth with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 9-10-11-11-12-14 cm from decrease for armhole.
Work 1 row from right side with knit over knit and purl over purl, and increase 0-0-2-2-0-2 stitches evenly (but not over the outermost 5 stitches in each side) = 42-46-50-50-50-54 stitches. Work 1 row in pattern from wrong side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now work rib as follows: Knit 3, purl 3. * Knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from right side, work from the second last row in A.7 over the first 8 stitches before slipping them on a strand of yarn (= strap), cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 26-30-34-34-34-38 stitches, work from next to last row in A.6 over the last 8 stitches on needle (= strap). Continue back and forth over these 8 stitches until strap measures approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm – adjust to finish after next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together.
Slip the 8 stitches from the strand of yarn back on needle and work last row in A.7 (= from wrong side). Then repeat pattern from row with arrow until strap measures approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm – adjust to finish after next to last row in diagram. Cast off from wrong side by purling, at the same time purl 2 and 2 stitches together.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew straps together with grafting/kitchener stitches. Sew together cast-on edges in the side where 5 new stitches were cast on (A.5/A.4). Sew with grafting/kitchener stitches to avoid chunky seam. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.06.2020
Correction: One stitch added under BODY. Two diagrams changed fra A.3 to A.5 under BACK PIECE.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
= purl 2 together
= slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased)
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= repeat pattern from this row
= knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Marit 05.07.2020 - 09:00:

Skal virkelig A3 strikkes to ganger på bolen? Det ser ikke slik ut på bildene. "masker rett, A.3 over de midterste 10 maskene på forstykket, 24-27-30-33-37-42 masker rett. Strikk 1 omgang til med rett og A.3 over de midterste 10 maskene på forstykket."

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 07:37:

Hei Marit, Her er det snakk om 2 omganger etter hverandre, med A.3 strikket 1 gang på hver omgang. De andre maskene er strikket rett. God fornøyelse!

Christine 21.06.2020 - 21:55:

Hei! Jeg forsøker å forstå oppskriften fra der hvor 8+8 masker settes på tråd på hver side av merketrådene. Jeg har lagt opp 5 masker på en pinne og strikket A5 fra retten over de 5 maskene. For pinne nr 2, lurer jeg på fra hvilken side jeg skal strikke 5.maske med 1. og 2. maske fra de 8 maskene under armen? Jeg forstår ikke helt hvordan de 5 maskene skal strikkes sammen med høyre forstykket? Veldig fint om dere kan legge ved et bilde? Takk!

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 08:21:

Hej Christine, Hvis du starter med højre forstykke, så er det A.4 du strikker. Vi skal prøv at få lavet en video som viser hvordan du gør :)

Maria Rosa 17.06.2020 - 21:34:

Vorrei capire meglio le correzioni, apportate al modello il 16 /06. Mi spiegate per favore cosa vuol dire da a3 a a5?

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 10:07:

Buongiorno Maria Rosa, nel paragrafo DIETRO, in 2 punti era riportato A.3 al posto di A.5, quindi è stato corretto. Le correzioni sono già state integrate nelle istruzioni, quindi quello che legge è già stato corretto. Buon lavoro!

Elleke Groeneweg 16.06.2020 - 18:32:

De correcties betekenen dat een oneven aantal steken wordt opgezet en dat A3 komt te vervallen en het dus ook A5 wordt? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord.

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 09:48:

Dag Elleke,

De correcties zijn al doorgevoerd in het online patroon. Er stond een aantal keer A.3 in de beschrijving, waar A.5 had moeten staan. Dat is dus inmiddels aangepast.

Eunice Ribeiro 15.06.2020 - 13:14:

Bom dia estou a fazer o modelo 211-13 , ao qual adoro todos os vossos trabalhos ,não fiz mais, porque tenho um pouco de dificuldade, em entender os vossos projectos ainda, gostaria de saber pfv se vão ter video deste, modelo das cavas, decote e alças , ja estou a meio do top. muito obrigada

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 16:38:

Boa tarde, Obrigado pelo seu interesse nos nossos modelos! Ainda não temos informações acerca de vídeos específicos para este modelo mas pode sempre ver os vídeos ao fundo das explicações deste modelo que ensinam váras técnicas para fazer este top. E se tiver dúvidas, pode sempre enviar uma pergunta, Bom Tricô!

Dale 12.06.2020 - 22:00:

When I start working the right front piece. It says cast on 5 stitches. Row 1 Is this the cast on five stitches only? Row2 does this mean work 2nd row of a.4(p3 k2) k. last st. together with the first and second stitch of the right front (decreasing 2sts.) then continue to k. To last st. Of front k1 together with 2 sts. From side work a.4 over last 5 sts.

Janni 12.06.2020 - 16:30:

Jeg synes ryggen afsluttes kedeligt. Hvorfor ikke lukke af med a4? Ellers super top med flot form - behagelig at have på.

Maria DeLeon 11.06.2020 - 14:25:

Cómo hacer sweater o blusa cuello en V con aguja circulares redondo?

DROPS Design 13.06.2020 kl. 20:16:

Hola Maria. Marcando la etiqueta "escote en V", que puedes encontrar bajo el nombre del patrón, tienes acceso a varios modelos de jerseis con escote en V.

Maria De Leon 11.06.2020 - 14:23:

Buenos días! Gracias por tanta ayuda Excelente!!!

Cannicioni Patricia 05.06.2020 - 07:03:

Bonjour , avez vous les explications en français ? merci !

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 07:53:

Bonjour Mme Cannicioni, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez simplement sur le menu sous la photo pour changer la langue. Bon tricot!

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