DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

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Mister Fox

Knitted fox with trousers, jumper and bow-tie in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS Baby 36-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-104-by
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Approx. 27 cm (including the ears)

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 100, off white
50 g colour 2925, rust
50 g colour 9021, fog
50 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50 g colour 506, dark grey – or use a left-over for eyes, nose and mouth

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Children Kids' Room Plushies Toys animals

UK
Ireland

DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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MAGIC CIRCLE:
To avoid a hole in the middle, use the following technique:
Hold the strand-end with your left hand and make a loop around your left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop between left thumb and index finger. Insert the needle through the loop, pick up the strand from the ball (i.e. lay the strand 1 time over the needle away from you), pull the strand through the loop, make 1 yarn over the needle (strand from back and towards you) and pull the yarn over through the stitch on the needle, * insert the needle through the loop, make 1 yarn over (strand from back and towards you), pull the yarn over through the loop, make 1 more yarn over (back and towards you) and pull the yarn over through the outermost stitch on the right needle (i.e. last stitch worked) *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row. Continue as described in the text – AT THE SAME TIME tighten the strand-end so the loop closes and the hole disappears.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreases), marker thread here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
When there are not enough stitches to work the cable, knit the cable stitches until all stitches are decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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FOX – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked with double pointed needles. The head is worked back and forth from the muzzle in two pieces with increasing, then sew both pieces together, the rest of the head is finished in the round to mid back. The ears are worked in the round and sewn onto the head. The body is worked in the round, top down. Arms, legs and tail are worked back and forth before being sewn onto the body. The jumper is worked to finish – the body is worked in the round and sleeves and yoke worked back and forth. The bow-tie is worked back and forth.

HEAD:
Make MAGIC CIRCLE with dark grey – read description above = 7 stitches on the needle. Divide the stitches between 3 double pointed needles size 3 mm (work with the 4th needle) and work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round = 14 stitches.
Divide the piece in 2 and place 6 stitches on one needle for the rust section and 8 stitches on another needle for the off-white section.
Now work back and forth over the 8 stitches with off-white as follows:
NOTE: Yarn overs always worked twisted to avoid holes.
ROW 1 (right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 13 stitches.
ROW 2: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROWS 3-4: Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROW 5: Knit 3, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* to end of row = 18 stitches.
ROW 6: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROW 7: Knit 3, * 1 yarn over, knit 3 *, work from *-* to end of row = 23 stitches.
ROW 8: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROW 9: Knit 3, * 1 yarn over, knit 4 *, work from *-* to end of row = 28 stitches.
ROW 10: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROW 11: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 2, * 1 yarn over, knit 5 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over, knit 4, 1 yarn over, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 35 stitches.
ROW 12: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROW 13: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 3, * 1 yarn over, knit 6 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 yarn over, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 42 stitches.
ROW 14: Purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Place the stitches on 1 thread.
Now work the 6 stitches with rust as follows:
NOTE: Yarn overs always worked twisted to avoid holes.
ROW 1: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 8 stitches.
ROW 2: Purl with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
ROWS 3-6: Work as for rows 1-2 = 12 stitches.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until you have worked 14 rows with rust.
Sew the off-white and rust sections together inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch using off-white. Make sure the stitches you sew into (i.e. the 4 edge stitches) are well fastened. They are no longer part of any stitch-counts.
Now continue with rust as follows: Work the 10 rust-stitches and the 40 off-white-stitches are worked back onto the needle = 50 stitches.
ROUND 1: * 1 yarn over, knit 4 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the round, 1 yarn over and knit 2 = 63 stitches.
ROUNDS 2-4: Knit (Yarn overs always knitted twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * Knit 5, knit 2 together *, work from *-* to end of round (= 9 stitches decreased) = 54 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit.
ROUND 7: * Knit 4, knit 2 together *, work from *-* to end of round (= 9 stitches decreased) = 45 stitches.
ROUND 8: Knit.
Continue decreasing like this every 2nd round (i.e. work 1 less stitch before knitting 2 together on each decrease-round = 9 stitches decreased on each round) until there are 9 stitches left on the needle. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches (without tightening).
Embroider eyes, mouth and nose using dark grey, fill the head with wadding, tighten the stitches and fasten the strand (= mid-back of head).

EARS:
Cast on 16 stitches with rust and divide the stitches between 2 double pointed needles (work with the third needle).
ROUNDS 1-2: Knit.
ROUND 3: * Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 4, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 12 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit.
ROUND 5: * Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 8 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit.
ROUND 7: * Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 4 stitches.
Knit the stitches together 2 and 2 = 2 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well.
Sew the bottom together with a couple of stitches and fasten the ear to the head. Work 1 more ear and fasten to the head.

BODY:
Cast on 16 stitches with rust – divide the stitches between 4 double pointed needles (work with the 5th needle).
ROUNDS 1-2: Knit.
ROUND 3: * Knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round = 24 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit (Yarn overs always knitted twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * Knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round = 36 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit.
ROUND 7: * Knit 3, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round = 48 stitches.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 5½ cm. Change to medium petrol and knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Then work 8 rounds with stocking stitch and medium petrol.
Continue decreasing as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 6, knit 2 together *, work from *-* to end of round = 42 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit.
ROUND 3: * Knit 5, knit 2 together *, work from *-* to end of round = 36 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit.
Continue to decrease like this every 2nd round (i.e. on each decrease round work 1 less stitch before knitting 2 together = 6 stitches decreased on each decrease round) until there are 12 stitches left. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches (without tightening). Fill the body with wadding, tighten the strand and fasten well. Sew the head to the body– the medium petrol section should face down (= trousers).

LEG:
Cast on 18 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and rust. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 3 cm. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 5, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 5, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 15 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 5, cast off the next 3 stitches, purl 5, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 6 stitches on each side.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work the 6 first stitches and then the next 6 stitches on the needle (the 3 cast-off stitches are now a hole in the middle of the piece).
Continue with stocking stitch back and forth and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side over the 12 stitches until the leg measures 8 cm.
Change to medium petrol, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and knit 1 = 23 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes).
ROW 3: * Knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1 = 34 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch back and forth and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the leg measures 11 cm, cast off.
Sew together the opening mid-top of the foot. Sew the foot together underneath and continue up the back of the leg – sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Fill the leg with wadding. Tack a thread up and down through the cast-off edge at the top of the leg. Tighten so it is a bit baggy.
Work 1 more leg in the same way. Sew both legs to the body.

TAIL:
Cast on 10 stitches with rust and double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When you have worked 6 rows work the next row from the right side as follows:
ROW 7: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 14 stitches.
ROW 8: Purl with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (yarn overs always purled twisted to avoid holes).
ROW 9: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 3 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 18 stitches.
Continue back and forth until the tail measures 4½ cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side:
Now work pattern back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with off-white as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 4, * knit 2 together, insert a marker thread here, 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. There are 3 marker threads in the piece and you have increased 3 stitches and decreased 3 stitches on the row = 18 stitches.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, AT THE SAME TIME on each row from the right side, knit together the 2 last stitches before each marker thread (= 3 stitches decreased) 3 times = 9 stitches left. Work 1 row back from the wrong side. Then work the last row as follows: Knit together all stitches 2 and 2 until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand, leaving a strand-end to sew the tail together. Thread the strand through the remaining stitches and tighten, then sew the tail together inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the rust section, fill the tail with wadding and finish sewing the tail using rust. Fasten the tail to the middle of the medium petrol section at the back of the fox.

ARM:
Cast on 10 stitches with rust and double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the arm measures 11½ cm. Cut the strand (leave enough strand-end to sew the sleeve with), pull the strand through the stitches (= at bottom of arm), tighten and then sew together inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Fill the arm with wadding and fasten it to the top of the body by the neck (under the head). Work 1 more arm in the same way and fasten to the other side.

JUMPER:
The body is worked in the round with double pointed needles as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked back and forth as far as the armholes, then placed on the same needle as the body, where stitches were cast off for the armholes. The yoke is worked back and forth from mid back, leaving an opening at the back of the jumper.

BODY:
Cast on 72 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and fog. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round. When you have worked 4 rounds of rib, knit 1 and insert a marker thread here (between 2 knitted stitches = in side of body; this is the beginning of the round). Work pattern as follows: * Knit 3, A.2 (= 30 stitches), knit 3 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round. Continue like this in the round until the piece measures 8 cm – adjust so you finish after round 1 in A.2. The next round is worked as follows: Cast off the first 2 stitches, work the next 32 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off the next 4 stitches, work the next 32 stitches as before (= back piece), cast off the last 2 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 22 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and fog and leave a strand-end of approx. 15 cm to sew the sleeve seam with. Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2 / purl 2) over the next 20 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth for 4 rows. Now work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the sleeve measures 5 cm, cast off as follows: Cast off the first 3 stitches, work the next 16 stitches, cast off the last 3 stitches. Cut the strand and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same needle as the body, where stitches were cast off for the armholes = 96 stitches. Place a marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves. Start the round mid back, i.e. between the middle 2 purled stitches in A.2. Then work back and forth as follows: Work pattern on the front and back pieces as before (with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch instead of purl over the first and last stitches = towards mid back), work stocking stitch on the sleeves, AT THE SAME TIME decrease to RAGLAN – read description above, every 2nd row 4 times = 64 stitches.
Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): * Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), marker thread here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), marker thread here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) *, work from *-* 1 more time= 52 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit over knit, purl over purl from the wrong side.
ROW 3: Work in the same way as row 1 (= 12 stitches decreased) = 40 stitches.
ROW 4: Knit; at the end of the row cast on 15 stitches.
ROW 5: Cast off the first 15 stitches with purl (from the right side), knit the next 40 stitches, cast on 15 stitches at the end of the row.
ROW 6: Cast off the first 15 stitches with knit (from the wrong side), then cast off the remaining 40 stitches with knit (from the wrong side). Cut the strand. Sew the sleeve seams and fasten all strands.

BOW-TIE:
Cast on 5 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and medium petrol. Work garter stitch back and forth for 8 cm, cast off. Sew the short sides together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, forming a ring. Cut and fasten the strand. Take a new strand and wind it a couple of times around the bow-tie. Sew the bow-tie to the jumper.

Diagram

	= knit with off-white
	= knit with rust
	= knit
	= purl
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

Else Karin Hatlevik wrote:

Jeg trenger hjelp til hvordan det blir hull i arbeidet på benet. Litt rart forklart.

26.06.2023 - 22:49

Maija Heikkinen wrote:

Miten puserossa voi ottaa kaikki silmukat samalle puikolle tehtäessä kaarroketta, kun etu-ja takakappaleet on kuitenkin neulottu suljettuna neuleena,

08.05.2021 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä onnistuu, koska kainaloiden kohdalta on päätetty silmukoita. Ensimmäiset kerrokset voivat kuitenkin olla hieman hankalia neuloa.

19.05.2021 - 17:31

Rebecka wrote:

Hej! Se min fråga 9/4 och Drops svar 26/4. Min ursprungliga fråga gäller EFTER varv 14 när man sytt ihop. Då ska natur och orange del på huvudet stickas runt - men rent tekniskt blir det ju då inget fäste i färgbytet, eftersom det sker på samma ställe varje gång? Finns alternativ att sticka natur och orange fortsatt för sig själva och sedan sy ihop med kantmaska, liksom första delen efter nosen i grått?

27.04.2021 - 09:38

Hej! När man sytt nosen och ska övergå i rundstickning resten av huvudet - hur får man gränsen mellan natur och orange att sitta ihop när man byter färg på garnet efter hälften, då blir det ju inte ihopstickat i gränsen? Finns ett rakt alternativ där man stickar vardera färg för sig och sedan syr ihop huvudet? MVH

09.04.2021 - 11:14

Hei Rebecka. Man strikker dele hver for seg, bortsett fra 1. omgang /snuten i farge grå. Når du har strikket 1. omgang av snuten, deles arbeidet slik at du strikker 1 del i natur for seg selv og 1 del i orangemelert for seg selv. Så når 1.-14. pinne i natur er ferdigstrikket og 1.-14. pinne i orangemelert er ferdig skal disse delene sys sammen innenfor 1 kantmaske rille på hver del med natur. Pass på at maskene det blir sydd innenfor (dvs, de 4 kantmaskene) blir festet godt. mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 - 10:45

Kerstin Lademann wrote:

Hallo, wie bekommt man den Farbwechsel beim Stricken des Kopfes in Runden hin, also wie führt man den zweiten Faden mit? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe!

11.02.2021 - 20:57

Liebe Frau Lademan, es wird nicht in Runden mit 2 Farben gestrickt: nach der 1. Runde stricken Sie mit natur über nur 8 Maschen (bis 14. Runde), dann stricken Sie die 6 Maschen mit orange über 14 Maschen, dann stricken Sie alle Maschen in der Runde - später nähen Sie beide Teile zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.02.2021 - 07:47

Sigrid wrote:

Er der en fejl i snoningsdiagrammet og forklaringen? Jeg kan ikke få det til at passe. Maskerne skal vel ikke på snoningspinden foran i begge sider?

19.09.2020 - 22:36

Hei Sigrid. Ja, her var det en feil i den danske oversettelsen. Skal være bak på det siste ikonet. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, vi vil ordne det med engang. mvh DROPS design

21.09.2020 - 13:40

Frances Jones wrote:

Please can you make a you tube video of this fox being made, to go along with the written pattern? Thanks

18.08.2020 - 22:16

Dear Mrs Jones, we have added your wish on our todolist - a whole video for the entire fox might be way too long but we'll do our possible. Thank you!

20.08.2020 - 09:44

Beth Dacchille wrote:

Cast on 72 stitches with double-pointed needles size 3 mm and fog - what does fog mean the instructions? I am unfamiliar with this abbreviation. Thanks in advance. Beth

13.07.2020 - 09:29

Dear Beth, "fog" is the colour DROPS Alpaca (= color Nr 9021) listed under Materials. Happy knitting!

13.07.2020 - 10:04

Barbara wrote:

Wie "fixiere" ich denn die krausen Randmaschen für die Schnauze? Ich verstehe nicht, wie die letzte Endmasche sich nicht auftrennen soll. Bitte bitte Hilfe!

27.06.2020 - 00:29

Liebe Barbara, dieses Video zeigt, wie man eine unsichtbare Naht arbeitet, damit können Sie die beiden Teilen vom Kopf zusammennähen, damit die Randmaschen nicht mehr sichtbar sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.06.2020 - 07:39