DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.80£. Read more.

Baby Fox

Knitted hat and mittens for babies with fox-pattern in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes Premature – 4 years.

DROPS Baby 36-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-103-by
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES: 1/3 - 6/9 months
Fits head size: approx. 40/42 - 42/44 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 2925, rust
50-50 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
A left over of 506, dark grey

HAT:

SIZES: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head size: approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 2925, rust
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 9020, light pearl grey
A left over of 506, dark grey

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm, 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm, 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

SIZES: 1/3 - 6/9 months

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 2925, rust
50-50 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
A left over of 506, dark grey

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
Hat: See diagram A.1 – choose diagram for your size.
Mittens: See diagram A.2 – choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams are worked in stocking stitch.
NOTE: To avoid holes when changing colour, twist the 2 strands together.
The thick square around the stitches marks where you work duplicate stitches for the fox’s nose.
The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for hat):
Decrease evenly spaced from the wrong side by purling 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in 2 sections which are sewn together to finish. Section 1 is worked with fox-pattern and section 2 is worked with one colour.

SECTION 1 (with fox-pattern):
Cast on (40) 44-48-52-52 (56-60) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and rust.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures (2) 2-2-2-3 (3-3) cm, change to circular needle size 3 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease (3) 1-0-2-0 (0-2) stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = (37) 43-48-50-52 (56-58) stitches. Then work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch (edge stitch worked in same colour as the first stitch in A.1), A.1 (= (35) 41-46-48-50 (54-56) stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (edge stitch worked in same colour as the last stitch in A.1).
When working with 2 colours, work the first part with light pearl grey using the strand from the outside of the ball, the part with rust using the strand from the outside of the ball and the second part with light pearl grey using the strand from the inside of the ball (i.e. you are using 3 strands, 2 strands light pearl grey and 1 strand rust on the same row).
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When all stitches have been worked with rust (the piece measures approx. (10) 11-12-13-15 (15-16) cm), continue with rust until the piece measures (16) 16-17-18-19 (20-21) cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

SECTION 2 (one-coloured):
Cast on (40) 44-48-52-52 (56-60) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and rust.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures (2) 2-2-2-3 (3-3) cm, change to circular needle size 3 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease (3) 1-0-2-0 (0-2) stitches evenly spaced = (37) 43-48-50-52 (56-58) stitches.
Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, using rust until the piece measures (16) 16-17-18-19 (20-21) cm; adjust to match section 1.
Cast off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the hat together inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Sew the top of the hat neatly together. Sew a triangle in each corner at the top, sewing through both layers, from approx. 3 cm down the side to approx. 3 cm across the top of the hat (= fox-ears).
Sew the nose and eyes with duplicate stitches using dark grey – see markings in the diagram.

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MITTENS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle.

MITTEN:
Cast on 42-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and rust. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) starting from the right side and with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side.
When the piece measures 4-4 cm, work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 5-6½ cm.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 (= 40-44 stitches) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When working with 2 colours, work the first part with light pearl grey using the strand from the outside of the ball, the first part with rust using the strand from the outside of the ball, the second part with light pearl grey using the strand from the inside of the ball and the second part with rust using the strand from the inside of the ball (i.e. you are using 4 strands, 2 strands light pearl grey and 2 strands rust on the same row).

When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 10 stitches left on the needle.
Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well. The mitten measures approx. 12-14 cm.

Work 1 more mitten in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew nose and eyes with duplicate stitches and dark grey – see markings in the diagram.
Sew the mitten together inside the 1 edge stitch.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.10.2020
Correction:
MITTEN:
Cast on 42-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) ...
Updated online: 24.11.2021
Correction: The symbols have been edited in diagram A.2.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with rust
symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with light pearl grey
symbols = the eye is worked in this stitch with duplicate stitches
symbols = knit 2 together from the right side with rust. Purl 2 together from the wrong side with rust
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch from the right side with rust. Purl 2 together from the wrong side with rust
symbols = knit 2 together from the right side with light pearl grey. Purl 2 together from the wrong side with light pearl grey
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch from the right side with light pearl grey. Purl 2 together from the wrong side with light pearl grey
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Therese wrote:

Hej Det står att vanten ska sys ihop innanför 1 kantmaska rätstickning, är det från rät eller avigsidan den ska sys ihop? Om det är från rätsidan hur syr jag ihop den utan att det syns när det är två olika färger som ska sys ihop? Vilken av färgerna blir i så fall bäst att sy ihop med?

09.12.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Therese. Sy fra rettsiden. Ta en titt på hjelpevideoene du finner under diagrammene hvordan man kan sy kantmaskene sammen. Siden det er mest av den orangemelerad fargen som skal sys sammen ville jeg nok ha gått for den, men du kan fint velge det du syns blir penest. mvh DROPS Design

11.12.2023 - 11:51

country flag Therese wrote:

Stickar vantarna 6-9 månader. Det står hur lång resåren ska vara (4cm) och hur långt resår plus rätstickning ska vara (6,5 cm) innan man påbörjar mönstret A2. Men hur brett ska arbetet vara och hur långt totalt när det är klart? Skulle vara bra att veta om jag håller rätt storlek.

27.11.2023 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Therese, det ser du på din strikkefasthed. Du skal have 26 masker i bredden på 10 cm og 34 pinde i højden i glatstrik :)

28.11.2023 - 10:47

country flag Dehant Nicole wrote:

Bonjour Il n y a pas les explications pour les oreilles est ce une omission ? Par avance merci

27.09.2023 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, Les oreilles se forment avec en cousant des trinagles lorsque l'on assemble le bonnet: ASSEMBLAGE: Coudre le bonnet à 1 maille lisière du bord de chaque côté. Assembler le haut du bonnet. Coudre un triangle en haut, dans chaque coin, en piquant dans les deux épaisseurs, à environ 3 cm du bas le long du côté et environ 3 cm le long du haut du bonnet (= oreilles du renard). Bon tricot!

28.09.2023 - 11:24

country flag Dehant Nicole wrote:

Bonjour Il n y a pas les explications pour les oreilles est ce une omission ? Par avance merci

27.09.2023 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, Voici les explications pour former les oreilees du bonet. ASSEMBLAGE: Coudre le bonnet à 1 maille lisière du bord de chaque côté. Assembler le haut du bonnet. Coudre un triangle en haut, dans chaque coin, en piquant dans les deux épaisseurs, à environ 3 cm du bas le long du côté et environ 3 cm le long du haut du bonnet (= oreilles du renard). Bon tricot!

28.09.2023 - 11:25

country flag Lisa M Grenier wrote:

Hi thank you for your response, but what you sent me was already in the pattern . I was looking for more specific information ie... how many stitches do I cast on for the triangles, are they worked in the round so they are 3d? what are the decreases? 1 at each end every other row? Thank you

13.11.2022 - 01:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, you don't need to work extra rows for a triangle. After finishing the uni-color part, in the upper side of the hat, you need to shape the edges to form triangles, with the dimensions indicated in the instructions (3 cm down and 3cm towards the middle). The second photo, with the whole set lying flat, may help you visualize the triangles better. Happy knitting!

13.11.2022 - 23:13

country flag Emma wrote:

Hej, Finns det inte mönster för vantarna i större storlek än 9 månader? Håller på att sticka mössan för 2 år, så det känns ju tråkigt att inte kunna sticka matchande vantar?

09.11.2022 - 12:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Emma. Disse vottene har ikke tommel, og en 2-åring vil nok bruke tommelene, men ta en titt på vottene i DROPS Extra 0-1217. Det er noen lignende reve votter med tommel. Evnt så kan du bruke diagrammet til 36-1 og prøve å tilpasse det til 0-1217. mvh DROPS Design

14.11.2022 - 10:07

country flag Lisa M Grenier wrote:

Please advice on the triangles form the ears, I am not that advanced, thank you

08.11.2022 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Grenier, sew hat together and lay it flat to sew the top. Then sew a triangle on each corner at the top on each side, starting approx. 3 cm down the side and 3 cm towards middle. Happy finishing!

08.11.2022 - 09:04

country flag Alisa wrote:

Hallo, wie berechne ich denn den Wollbedarf für die Mütze für ein 3-jähriges Kind? Vielen Dank im Vorraus für die Hilfe

21.10.2022 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alisa, benötige Garnmenge für die Mütze finden Sie oben bei dem Kopfzeil; 3/4 Jahre ist die letzte Größe, so brauchen Sie insgesamt 2 Knäuel DROPS Alpaca, 1 x Farbe 2925 + 1 x Farbe 9020 + ein Rest Farbe 506 für die Nase und die Augen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.10.2022 - 07:48

country flag Silvia wrote:

Chiedo scusa. Ho capito il mio errore

10.10.2022 - 17:53

country flag Silvia wrote:

Chiedo: se seguo lo schema per taglia 2 anni, a fine bordo ho 54 m+2m di vivagno.\r\nLo schema A1 davanti volpe, ne da 50(23+23+ 4 per il naso). Dove sono le altre 4 maglie? GRAZIE🌹

10.10.2022 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, deve scegliere lo schema A.1 corrispondente alla sua taglia: lo schema A.1 per la taglia 2 anni ha 50 maglie per la to + 4 maglie centrali. Buon lavoro!

10.10.2022 - 19:07