DROPS Baby / 36 / 5

Early Nap Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted trousers for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with English ribs. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-114-by
Yarn group A

(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. height of baby:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104) cm
NOTE: The English rib makes the garment quite stretchy and it will therefore be smaller than the measurements on the sketch.

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-150 (150-200) g colour 42, petrol

24 stitches in width and 46 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.




The piece is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The round starts mid-back.

Cast on (132) 144-156-180-192 (204-216) stitches with circular needle size 2 mm and Baby Merino. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm, then work an elevation at the back as follows:
Work (32) 35-38-44-47 (50-53) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (64) 70-76-88-94 (100-106) stitches back in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (58) 64-70-82-88 (94-100) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (52) 58-64-76-82 (88-94) stitches back in rib. Continue like this, working 6 stitches less every time you turn and until you have worked over a total of (28) 34-40-40-46 (52-58) stitches. Now continue in the round as follows from the right side:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work A.1 over all stitches.
When the first round has been worked there are (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) stitches on the needle. Continue in the round with English rib according to A.1a.
When the piece measures approx. (12) 14-15-18-17 (18-19) cm mid-front (adjust so the next round is knitted), work as follows:
Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1 over the next (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before, A.2 over 2 stitches (= mid-front), A.1 over the last (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) stitches on the needle.
When the piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm (increases should have finished), cast off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches mid-front and mid-back. Each leg is finished separately; place the stitches for the one leg on 1 thread.

= (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) stitches. Divide the stitches onto 4 double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and continue A.1a in the round. When the leg measures approx. (9) 11-12-15-18 (23-28) cm (or to desired length; there are (4) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) cm left), change to double pointed needles size 2 mm and continue in the round with rib, with knit over knit and purl over purl (on the first round work the yarn-overs together with their stitches). When the leg measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31-36) cm from the division, cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work in the same way as the first leg.

Sew together the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches cast off front and back between the legs.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.03.2020
Added chart icon no 4 (- = purl).


= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl
= yarn over and stitch knitted together
= yarn over and stitch purled together
= purl
= purl 2 together
= work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn-over as follows: Knit together stitch and yarn over but do not slip them from the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time without slipping them from the needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 36-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Noelle 05.09.2020 - 14:29:

Hallo! Ik heb een vraag: als ik begin met de meerdering volgens A.2 en dan 46 steken (bij maat 0/1 maanden) verder tel voor de tweede Needering (middenvoor) kom ik uit bij een overslag en niet bij een steek die recht samen gebreid moet worden. De meerdering kan alleen worden gemaakt bij een steek die recht samen gebreid moet worden, toch? Zo ja, moet ik dan in de voorgaande (na 45 steken) of de volgende (47 steken) de meerdering maken?Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 11.09.2020 kl. 13:36:

Dag Noelle,

Als het goed is moet je meerderen boven het symbool waar je op de vorige naald 1 omslag maakte en 1 averechte steek op de rechter naald zette (dus het bovenste symbool). Nu ga je 5 steken meerderen in de stee en de omslag zoals beschreven bij de symbool uitleg.

Leah Tjemsland 30.08.2020 - 20:29:

I’m not sure I quite understand how a yarn over, a slipped stitch and a purl 2 together will equal any kind of decrease in A.1. Can you please clarify how this decrease works? If you’re continually adding a yo, won’t that negate the decrease that a p2tog creates? I don’t understand.

DROPS Design 31.08.2020 kl. 10:00:

Dear Mrs Tjemsland, yarn overs worked over slipped stitches do not increase the number of stitches, these yarn overs belong the the stitches they are worked over, this means yarn over, slip 1 as if to P = 1 stitch - P2 tog = from 2 sts only 1 stitch remain. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

Noelle 20.08.2020 - 20:48:

Hallo! Ik kom eigenlijk direct in de problemen na het breien van A.1. Ik maak maat 1-3 maanden en heb dus 156 steken. Na A. 1 1 naald gebreid te hebben zou ik er 104 over moeten houden. Hoe dan? Je bereidt er 2 averecht samen, maar je maakt ook een omslag. Per saldo blijkt het aantal steken dus gelijk. Zelf als je de overslag en de afgehaalde steek samen telt klopt het niet. Hoe kan dit? Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 21.08.2020 kl. 10:44:

Dag Noelle,

Op de eerste naald in A.1 maak je 1 omslag op de rechter naald en je haalt 1 steek averecht af, dan brei je 2 averecht samen. Dit herhaal je steeds. Bij het tellen van de steken tellen de omslag en de afgehaalde steek samen als 1 steek, waardoor je in totaal 104 steken op de naald hebt.

Linda 17.08.2020 - 04:09:

Do you have a video of how to knit the front gusset as I don’t understand your chart.

DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 09:37:

Dear Linda, you will find how to read a diagram here - you will decrease in A.1 1 stitch by purling together every 2nd and 3rd stitch and increase 4 sts in A.2 (see here how to work 5 sts in same st in English rib). Happy knititng!

Kira 01.08.2020 - 14:56:

Es gibt einen Fehler in der cm Angabe bei der Grösse 6/9 Monate. Und zwar hier: Bei einer Länge von (12) 14-15-18-17 (18-19) cm, gemessen an der vorderen Mitte - daran angepasst, dass die nächste Runde eine Runde mit Rechtsmaschen ist... Ich nehme an es sollte hier 16 cm heissen für Grösse 6/9 Monate!? Ansonsten tolle Anleitung! Danke! Liebe Grüsse aus Basel

Ulla Dahl Nielsen 14.07.2020 - 23:02:

Hej igen. Jeg har fundet ud af hvad der menes med de 28 m ;-) men jeg forstår ikke A.1 Jeg skal slå om og tage en maske løs af over på højre pind, så skal jeg strikke 2 vr sammen, så skal jeg slå om og tage en maske løs af men så viser diagrammet at jeg skal strikke omslag og løs maske ret ! Hvordan skal jeg kunne det når maskerne er på højre pind ???

Ulla Dahl Nielsen 14.07.2020 - 21:10:

I opskriften står der at forhøjningen bag på skal reduceres med 6 m for hver gang der vendes. Men hvad menes der med at det skal gøres over total (28 )masker ? Hvor mange gange er det så på den mindste størrelse ?

DROPS Design 30.07.2020 kl. 14:18:

Hej Ulla, Du strikker 32 vender, strikker 64 vender, strikker 58 vender, strikker 52 vender, strikker 46 vender, strikker 40 vender, strikker 34 vender og strikker 28 vender. Nu fortsætter du rundt. God fornøjelse!

Sanne 17.05.2020 - 20:38:

Når jeg skal strikke A2 er det så kun de maskeantal som er i diagrammet og så A1 derefter eller er det kun i første række jeg strikker A2 og så A1.

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 10:41:

Hei Sanne. Det er kun det maskeantallet som er i diagrammet, altså på første omgang der A.2 strikkes er det kun over 2 masker, (men A.2 strikkes 2 steder). God Fornøyelse!

Hanne Christensen 10.05.2020 - 19:54:

Hej. Forstår ikke pinden medA1. 1: begynder omgangen midt bag? 2: der reduceres ikke i maskeantallet. Slå og 2 sammen giver samme antal. 3: skal tråden efter omslag ligge foran eller bagved den maske der tages løst af? Vh Hanne

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 15:33:

Hej Hanne, ja omgangen starter midt bagpå. Nej der skal ikke reduceres i maskeantallet, du skal bare lave huller. Tråden skal ligge bagved masken. God fornøjelse!

Tina 03.05.2020 - 12:23:

Ich habe die gleichen Schwierigkeiten mit der Maschenreduktion bei A.1, wie sie schon in anderen Kommentaren erwähnt wurden. Ein Umschlag, 1 M abheben wie zum Linksstricken und zwei Maschen links zusammenstricken ergibt doch wieder die gleiche Maschenzahl, es ist jedoch eine Reduktion der Maschenzahl um einen Drittel nötig. Wo ist mein Denkfehler?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:41:

Liebe Tina, den Umschlag mit der abgehobenen Maschen wird hier nicht als Masche gerechnet, denn er gehört zu den abgehobenen Maschen; dh Sie haben nach der 1. Reihe in A.1: 1 Umschlag + 1 abgehobene Masche, 1 Masche links (= die 2 M links zs gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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