Early Nap Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted trousers for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with English ribs. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.

Keywords: english rib, top down, trousers

DROPS Baby 36-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-114-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. height of baby:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104) cm
NOTE: The English rib makes the garment quite stretchy and it will therefore be smaller than the measurements on the sketch.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-150 (150-200) g colour 42, petrol

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 46 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2 MM
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2 MM: Length 40 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool

from 3.50 £ /50g

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour	3.50 £ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix	3.50 £ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TROUSERS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The round starts mid-back.

TROUSERS:
Cast on (132) 144-156-180-192 (204-216) stitches with circular needle size 2 mm and Baby Merino. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm, then work an elevation at the back as follows:
Work (32) 35-38-44-47 (50-53) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (64) 70-76-88-94 (100-106) stitches back in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (58) 64-70-82-88 (94-100) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (52) 58-64-76-82 (88-94) stitches back in rib. Continue like this, working 6 stitches less every time you turn and until you have worked over a total of (28) 34-40-40-46 (52-58) stitches. Now continue in the round as follows from the right side:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work A.1 over all stitches.
When the first round has been worked there are (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) stitches on the needle. Continue in the round with English rib according to A.1a.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures approx. (12) 14-15-16-17 (18-19) cm mid-front (adjust so the next round is knitted), work as follows:
Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1a over the next (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before, A.2 over 2 stitches (= mid-front), A.1a over the last (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) stitches on the needle.
When the piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm (increases should have finished), cast off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches mid-front and mid-back. Each leg is finished separately; place the stitches for the one leg on 1 thread.

LEG:
= (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) stitches. Divide the stitches onto 4 double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and continue A.1a in the round. When the leg measures approx. (9) 11-12-15-18 (23-28) cm (or to desired length; there are (4) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) cm left), change to double pointed needles size 2 mm and continue in the round with rib, with knit over knit and purl over purl (on the first round work the yarn-overs together with their stitches). When the leg measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31-36) cm from the division, cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work in the same way as the first leg.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches cast off front and back between the legs.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..

Updated online: 20.03.2020
Added chart icon no 4 (- = purl).

Updated online: 08.10.2020
Correction: TROUSERS:... When the piecemeasures approx. (12) 14-15-16-17(18-19) cm mid-front (adjust so the next round is knitted), work as follows: ...

Updated online: 29.10.2020
Correction:
TROUSERS:
… When the piece measures approx. (12) 14-15-16-17 (18-19) cm mid-front (adjust so the next round is knitted), work as follows:
Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1a over the next (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before, A.2 over 2 stitches (= mid-front), A.1a over the last (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before.

Updated online: 19.01.2021
Diagram A.2 updated in all sizes.

Diagram

	= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl
	= yarn over and stitch knitted together
	= yarn over and stitch purled together
	= purl
	= purl 2 together
	= work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn-over as follows: Knit together stitch and yarn over but do not slip them from the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time without slipping them from the needle , work from -* a total of 2 times, then slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 36-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Kirsten Merrild wrote:

Jeg har slået 144 m op og følger opskriften så pludselig efter første p. patent påstås det så, at der kun er 96 m i omgangen, men så vidt jeg kan se, har der ikke været indtagninger? Så jeg tror, der er fejl i opskriften

30.01.2023 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten, du tager ind ifølge A.1. Du ser at de 3 m på første pind i A.1 strikkes sammen til 2 masker ifølge diagrammet :)

31.01.2023 kl. 11:44

Sandra wrote:

Hei! På første omgang diagram A.1 skal man lage 1 kast om høyre pinne, løfte 1 maske løs over på høyre pinne som om den skulle strikkes vrang og der etter strikke 2 masker vrang sammen? Og fortsette dette ut pinnen? Men hvordan har det seg att det blir mindre masker når man øker med ett kast for hver felling?

04.11.2022 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sandra. Når du starter på diagram A.1 starter du også med patentstrikk. Ved patentstrikk telles ikke kastet som en egen maske , kastet strikkes sammen med masken som ble løftet over på neste omgang (altså kastet er ingen økning). Siden patetstrikk er veldig tøyelig, så må det felles mange masker etter vrangborden og i denne oppskriften felles det 1 maske ved å strikke 2 masker sammen hver gang A.1 strikkes. Patentstrikk er en strikketeknikk der det strikkes med doble masker for å få tydelige, tykke striper i arbeidet – likt en vrangbord. Du kan lese mer om patentstrikk under Tips&Hjelp / DROPS Leksjoner / Teknikker / Patentstrikk – en oversikt. mvh DROPS Design

07.11.2022 kl. 10:36

Emmi wrote:

I am wondering the same thing as Ida from Sweden last year. How does the stitches decrease at the first line of A1 as you make one, move one and then knit 2 together? So 3 stitches become 3 stitches.. but the amount of stitches should go down from 156 to 104

09.10.2022 - 09:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emmi, in the first line of the A.1 you decrease 1 stitch, since you are knitting 2 stitches together (you see in the chart that you go from working three stitches in each repeat to working 2 stitches). Since you repeat A.1 52 times in the round (for your size), you decrease 52 stitches (156-52 = 104 stitches). The yarn over belongs to the English rib and counts as a single stitch alongside the previous stitch, so it doesn't add to the amount of stitches in the round and is worked together with their corresponding stitch in the next round. Happy knitting!

09.10.2022 kl. 19:58

Sarah wrote:

Vilket sticknummer är menat att matcha den angivna stickfastheten? Nr 2 eller nr 2,5?

03.05.2022 - 22:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sarah, vi har strikket bukserne på pind 2,5 :)

04.05.2022 kl. 09:57

Laura Christensen wrote:

Jeg har lidt problemer med at forstå sidste del, inden aflukningen til benene. Jeg forstår, jeg skal lave en blanding af A.1a og A.2 over en retomgang. Efter det skal jeg så strikke A.2, indtil arbejdet måler 17 cm, hvor jeg så skal lukke af til ben? Hvad skal jeg helt præcist gøre mellem den ene "blandings" ret pind og aflukning?

11.04.2022 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Laura. Du strikker A.1a og A.2 til du har strikket A.2 1 gang i høyden (A.1a er da strikket 4 ganger i høyden). Altså, du strikker A.2 2 ganger på omgangen, foran og bak, mens A.1a strikkes over alle maskene i hver "side". Når arbeidet måler 17 cm og økningene er ferdig, felles det 12 masker midt foran og midt bak og nå strikkes hvert ben for seg selv. mvh DROPS Design

19.04.2022 kl. 10:23

Sandra wrote:

Liebes Drops/Garnstudio Team, bei meiner Maschenprobe zur Early Nap Pants habe ich direkt eine Rundnadel mit Nadelstärke 3,0 gewählt, da ich grundsätzlich sehr fest stricke. Bei meiner Probe kamen nun 34 Reihen (laut Angabe 46 Reihen) und 29 Maschen (laut Angabe 24 Maschen) heraus. Somit habe ich weniger Reihen als angegeben benötigt, aber mehr Maschen als angegeben. Sollte ich meine Nadelstärke nun verkleinern oder vergrößern? Vielen Dank schon im voraus!

04.04.2022 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, am besten versuchen Sie Ihre Maschenprobe zu waschen/spannen oder mit einer anderen Nadeln zu stricken, damit Sie die genaue Maschenanzahl in der Breite haben; es wird viel einfacher, sonnst sollen Sie die ganze Anleitung neu umrechnen. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.04.2022 kl. 09:36

Sanna wrote:

Olen yrittänyt lukea piirrosohjetta, mutta en ymmärrä sitä millään. A.1a 1.kerros ; pitäisi neuloa langankierto ja silmukka nurin yhteen , mutta ei 1. kierroksella voi olla vielä langankiertoa. Voisitteko ystävällisesti kertoa miten ohje etenee

20.02.2022 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Aluksi neulotaan piirroksen A.1 ensimmäinen kerros (tällä kerroksella tehdään langankiertoja. Tämän jälkeen neulotaan piirroksen A.1a mallikerta.

22.03.2022 kl. 17:01

Gogniat wrote:

Je fais suite au commentaire précédent: Il serait judicieux de préciser dans les explications que les jetés avant maille glissée ne comptent pas pour une maille (lorsque l’on compte) Concernant les côtes anglaise, il y a une vidéo explicative avec une explication écrite en dessous ET un descriptif écrit à deux endroits différents du site qui ne disent pas la même chose. Ce modèle donne une troisième version. De quoi s’y perdre et n’y rien comprendre!

27.12.2021 - 19:35

Gogniat wrote:

J’ai beau essayer et réessayer il me semble qu’il y a un problème avec A1 en effet ce rang est supposé diminuer le nombre de maille, cependant le résultat est le même nombre de maille. Ensuite le motif souhaité apparaît sur l’envers et non sur l’endroit… en soit il suffit de retourner le tricot à la fin mais c’est tout de même étrange. Si vous avez l’explication, je suis preneuse! Merci!

23.12.2021 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gogniat, effectivement, le 1er rang de A.1 va diminuer le nombre de mailles car vous tricotez 2 mailles ensemble à l'envers, le jeté de la 1ère maille de A.1 ne compte pas dans le nombre de maille car il appartient à la maille glissée, ainsi, à la fin de ce 1er rang, vous avez: 1 jeté + sa maille glissée, 1 maille envers (donc bien 2 mailles sur les 3 d'auparavant). Ces côtes anglaises sont réversibles, et le résultat est donc le même sur l'endroit et sur l'envers - cf cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

03.01.2022 kl. 08:20

Agnes wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar storleken 0/1. Jag förstår inte mönstret när jag kommer till A.2. Ska jag sticka bara det första varvet på A.1a efter att ha ökat fem maskor eller ska jag sticka A.2 fyra varv - alla fyra varv på A.1a - A.2 fyra varv? Vad ska jag göra efter meningen ”A.1a över de sista 46 maskorna som förut”? Sticka bara A.2 enligt diagram eller fortsätta med A.2 - A.1a- A.2 - A.1a???

02.12.2021 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agnes. Du stickar det varvet som det står dvs A2 1 gång (2 maskor), A.1a 23 gånger (46 maskor), A2 1 gång (2 maskor), A.1a 23 gånger (46 maskor). Nästa varv stickar du på samma sätt men nu har du ju då fler antal maskor i diagram A2. Så varv 2 blir A.2 1 gång (6 m), A1 23 gånger (46 m) osv. Du fortsätter sedan på detta sätt uppåt i diagrammet tills hela diagram A2 är stickat. Mvh DROPS Design

03.12.2021 kl. 11:10

Early Nap Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted trousers for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with English ribs. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

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English rib – an overview

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

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How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

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Early Nap Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted trousers for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with English ribs. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Comments / Questions (55)

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 36-5