DROPS Big Delight
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Mountain Moss

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Big Delight. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 210-20

#mountainmosssweater

DROPS Design: Pattern no db-117
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-400-500-500-500-600 g colour 20, rainforest

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 (diagrams A.3 to A.5 apply to sizes XL, XXL and XXXL).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 19. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 19th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 19th and 20th stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and cast the yarn overs off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 76-76-80-84-88-92 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Big Delight.
Knit 1 round. Now work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 0-4-8-8-12-16 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 76-80-88-92-100-108 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker after the rib, mid-back; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3 cm from the marker in all sizes, work pattern according to the diagrams and increase as follows:
INCREASE 1: Work A.1 (= 4 stitches) a total of 19-20-22-23-25-27 times on the round. When A.1 has been completed there are 114-120-132-138-150-162 stitches on the round.
Knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted evenly to 115-120-135-140-150-165 stitches (i.e. in sizes S, L, XL, XXXL increase 1-3-2-3 stitches and in sizes M and XXL do not increase) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue with stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 7-8-9-9-9-10 cm increase as follows:
INCREASE 2: Work A.2 (= 5 stitches) a total of 23-24-27-28-30-33 times on the round. When A.2 has been completed there are 161-168-189-196-210-231 stitches on the round.
Knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 160-170-190-198-210-234 stitches (i.e. in size S decrease 1 stitch, in sizes M, L, XL and XXXL increase 2-1-2-3 stitches and in size XXL do not increase).
Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 11-13-15-15-15-17 cm, work as follows in the different sizes:

SIZES S, M and L:
Now increase and work pattern as follows:
INCREASE 3: Work A.2 (= 5 stitches) a total of 32-34-38 times on the round. When A.2 has been completed there are 224-238-266 stitches on the round.
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 18-20-22 cm. Then continue as described below.

SIZES XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Now increase and work pattern as follows:
INCREASE 3: Work A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 33-35-39 times on the round. When A.3 has been completed there are 264-280-312 stitches on the round.
Knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 266-280-315 stitches (i.e. in sizes XL and XXXL increase 2-3 stitches and in size XXL do not increase).
Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 21-21-24 cm, work as follows:
INCREASE 4: Work * 3-2-3 repeats of A.5, 1 repeat of A.4 *, work from *-* 9-13-11 times, then finish the round in the different sizes as described below:
Size XL: Finish the round with A.5 over the last 14 stitches (= 2 repeats).
Size XXL: Finish the round with A.4 over the last 7 stitches (= 1 repeat).
Size XXXL: Finish the round with knit 5 and knit the last 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased).
When A.4 and A.5 have been completed there are 284-308-336 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 24-26-28 cm. Then continue as described below.

ALL SIZES:
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work the first 32-34-38-41-45-49 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 48-50-57-59-64-70 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 64-69-76-83-90-98 stitches (= front piece), place the next 48-50-57-59-64-70 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 32-35-38-42-45-49 stitches (= half back piece).
Body and sleeves are continued separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 140-154-168-182-196-216 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 29 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 20-22-28-30-32-32 stitches evenly spaced = 160-176-196-112-228-248 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 48-50-57-59-64-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-8-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-65-67-72-80 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve (= 3-4-4-4-4-5 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid-under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 7-8-11-11-13-16 times = 40-42-43-45-46-48 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 30-29-28-26-24-23 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-5-3-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 33-32-31-29-27-26 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 22.03.2021
under YOKE (typing error, not A.4, but A.1):
INCREASE 1:.... When A.1 has been completed there are 114-120-132-138-150-162 stitches on the round.

Diagram

	= knit
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Mountain Moss

Frida, Sweden

Comments / Questions (17)

Ieva Lagzdina wrote:

Hei! Er det mulig til å kjøpe de 2 siste garnnøster hvis det er nødvendig 4 nøster til en prosjekt? Jeg vil gjærne kjøpe Drops Big Delight 2 nøster av farge som heter SOLOPGANG. Eg har 2 nøster allerede, men mangler bare to til. Denne fargen selges ikke meire noen annen sted. Mvh, IEVA

13.11.2023 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, DROPS Big Merino er desværre udgået, du kan prøve at skrive i DROPS Workshop på Facebook, her er det størst chance at få fat i 2 nøgler :)

15.11.2023 - 07:50

Claudia wrote:

Das Originalgarn "Big Delight" ist nicht mehr verfügbar und ich finde es nicht in der Suche nach Alternativgarnen. Gibt es noch Informationen wie etwa die Lauflänge von Big Delight?

10.08.2023 - 00:19

Liebe Claudia, hier finden Sie alle unsere Auslaufqualitäten, dort können Sie dan lesen, daß Big Delight ca 190 m / 100 g war - gerne können Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die Garnmenge in einigen Alternative für die gewünschte Größe kalkulieren lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.08.2023 - 09:35

COMELET Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, pour feutrer un pull, quelle taille faut-il prendre ?? 1 ou 2 taille au dessus ??? Merci pour votre retour.

24.03.2022 - 21:39

Bonjour Mme Comelet, le feutrage ne se passe pas forcément exactement de cette façon, tout va dépendre de votre échantillon, de votre machine, et donc de la différence avant/après. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur le feutrage ici - pensez à bien faire un échantillon mesuré avant et après feutrage (en largeur mais aussi en hauteur) pour recalculer votre modèle. Bon tricot!

25.03.2022 - 07:48

Nina wrote:

Hei. Lurer på øking med mønster A 1 og A 2. Forstått øke hver 19 og 23 maske og hvordan. Men skal det økes hver omgang? Eller annenhver ? Håper på raskt svar

11.10.2021 - 16:27

Lisbeth wrote:

Hei Skal strikke denne og lurer på om dette er en modell med litt kortere ermer. Jeg vil ha full lengde på ermene og spør slik at jeg får kjøpt nok garn.

12.04.2021 - 15:12

Hei Lisbeth. Ut i fra bilde kan det se ut som om det er litt korte ermer, men sjekk målskissen og lengden og mål på deg selv. Da vil du finne den riktige lengden. mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 - 15:16

Ventu wrote:

Bonjour, Si je souhaite faire ce modèle en point mousse, puis-je utiliser le même nombre de mailles où dois-je apporter des modifications ?

16.10.2020 - 11:38

Bonjour Mme Ventu, si vous tricotez ce modèle au point mousse, il vous faudra modifier l'empiècement, si le nombre de mailles point mousse jersey en largeur est le même, le nombre de rangs sera différent et les explications devront être ajustées en conséquence (plus d'infos ici - Vous pourrez sinon retrouver tous nos modèles pour femme au point mousse ou avec du point mousse ici. Bon tricot!

16.10.2020 - 11:51

Margrethe Jensen wrote:

Jeg har nu strikket den i str. M, men den er meget lille og strikkefastheden stemmer. Giver trøjen sig, når den bliver vasket?

19.07.2020 - 15:33

Hej Margrethe, Hvis du overholder strikkefastheden som passer til opskriften, så får du målene som står nederst i måleskitsen i den aktuelle størrelse. Nej den bliver nok ikke større... men man kan jo prøve at trække lidt i den når den er våd... Held og lykke!

28.07.2020 - 12:26

Hanne Elena Rørbech wrote:

Hej med jer. Kan jeg få svar på den kommentar jeg har skrevet for et par dage siden øverst oppe i tråden ?hilsen Hanne Elena.

12.05.2020 - 11:31

Hej Hanne, vi skriver: Næste omgang strikkes således: 34m (= halv bagstykke), sæt 50m på en tråd, slå 8 nye masker op (= i siden under ærmet), strik 69m (= forstykke), sæt 50m på en tråd, slå 8 nye masker op (= i siden under ærmet), strik 35 masker (= halv bagstykke). (34+8+69+8+35=154m). Stemmer det ikke, eller misforstår vi dit spørgsmål?

15.05.2020 - 08:50

Fejl i forklaringen : Efter man har sat 50 masker af til hvert ærme, er man da nødt til at strikke de 2*8 masker med man har slået op for at få nok masker til kroppen. f. eks . 69 +69 + 8+8=154 masker i størrelse medium. Hilsen Hanne Elena

08.05.2020 - 12:10

Frédérique PASCAL DE RAYKEER wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais des explications sur les augmentations 4: comment se fait-il que l'on n'arrive qu'à 284 mailles après toutes ces augmentations? J'ai compté que l'on augmentait de ( 6 + 2) x 9. Cela fait donc beaucoup plus. Merci!

03.04.2020 - 11:24

Bonjour Mme Pascal de Raykeer, vous avez 266 m après A.3 et tricotez (3xA.5, 1xA.4) x 9 + (2xA.5) soit: (3x7 + 7)x9 + (2x7) = 266 m. Quand A.4 et A.5 ont été tricotés 1 fois en hauteur, vous avez augmenté 2 m dans chaque A.4, autrement dit 9 motifs de A.4 x 2 augmentations = 18 + 266= 284 m. Bon tricot!

03.04.2020 - 11:45