DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.35£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Listen to Nature

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 213-1
DROPS design: Pattern no R-755
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour no 82, silver fox

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Dreamy Pastels assembly free lace leaf pattern round neck round yoke top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.35£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 96-96-102-114-114-120 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 round.
Work rib (= purl 2/knit 1).
When piece measures 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Work A.1 (= 6 stitches) in the round over all stitches (= 16-16-17-19-19-20 times in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 288-320-340-380-418-440 stitches on needle.
Piece now measures 14-16-16-16-18-18 cm from marker. Knit in the round.
When piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 40-45-49-53-60-65 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 81-91-98-106-120-130 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work the last 41-46-49-53-60-65 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 174-194-208-224-256-280 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve in each side (= in the sides of body). There are 87-97-104-112-128-140 stitches between marker threads on front and back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides. Knit all stitches.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 4 cm 5-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 194-210-224-244-276-300 stitches.
When piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from division, increase 13-12-13-14-15-15 stitches evenly = 207-222-237-258-291-315 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 1/purl 2).
Cast off by knitting when rib measures 4 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where it was divided.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-75-78-90-97-100 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker upwards when working. Decrease on each side of this marker thread later.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread- read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2-2-1½-1-1 cm 11-13-14-19-21-22 times in total = 47-49-50-52-55-56 stitches.
When piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm, increase 1-2-1-2-2-1 stitches evenly on next round= 48-51-51-54-57-57 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 2). When rib measures 4 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 25.05.2020
New chart A.1, size M-L-XL (round 18) and XXL-XXXL (round 24+39+41).

Diagram

	= knit
	= purl
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted into pattern
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
	= work 3 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit stitch but wait to slip stitch knitted onto right needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches
	= on first repetition of A.1 displace round 1 stitch as follows: Pass the first stitch over right needle without working it, then work A.1 in the round.
	= purl 2 together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

Monika Imfeld wrote:

Guten Tag, etwas ist für mich unklar, das Zeichen im Diagramm, bei de 2 M rechts einen Umschlag und wieder zwei Maschen rechrs gestrickt wird, erscheint doppelt ( 2 nebeneinnder ), wie verstehe ich das, muss ich zwei Umschlage machen, ich bin unsicher. Vielen Dank für Hilfe! M. Imfeld

17.07.2024 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, können Sie genauer erklären, welche Reihe im Diagramm Sie meinen? Dann ist es einfacher zu beschreiben, wie Sie stricken müssen. Zwei Umschläge direkt nacheinander machen Sie jedenfalls nirgendwo, es ist immer mindestens 1 Rechtsmasche dazwischen oder der Umschlag liegt zwischen je 2 zusammengestrickten Maschen.

22.07.2024 - 10:20

Ludmilla wrote:

Bonjour, Dans le début du diagramme A1 il y a des lozanges. Ce n'est pas très clair. Ce sont des mailles à tricoter 3x ou des mailles envers? Les mailles envers sont représentées par une croix dans la légende. Merci!

24.06.2024 - 00:36

Bonjour Lumilla, ce sont bien des croix et dans la légende et dans les diagrammes, autrement dit, une maille en jersey envers. Bon tricot!

24.06.2024 - 10:00

Linda Conley wrote:

Drops 213-1, size M. Chart A.1, row 17, has a black square at the beginning of the row. Instructions state: “On first repetition of A.1, displace round 1 stitch as follows: pass the first stitch over right needle without working it, then work A.1 in the round.” Does this just mean pass that stitch or does this mean that I must move every stitch marker dividing each pattern repetition?

28.05.2024 - 16:11

Dear Linda, You only pass the first stitch, and with that the first stitch of all the other repetitions will move one stitch. I hopw this helps. Happy Knitting!

28.05.2024 - 22:19

Marie Fuller wrote:

How can I get the pattern named : Lavander. Charm top?

07.05.2024 - 05:51

Cate wrote:

Hi, is the diagram for size in inches or centimeters?

28.04.2024 - 19:24

Dear Cate, the measurements on the schematic drawings are given in cm's. Happy Knitting!

28.04.2024 - 20:17

Khanh wrote:

Hi, I'm at graph A1.size L, round 15. Is it after 5 Purl Purl Knit, then Purl Purl K3tog ? After that, in round 16, 3 stitches around K3tog will be Knit all? Do I understand correctly? Thank you in advance!

20.04.2024 - 09:02

Hi, row 15: (p2, K1) x 5, p2, work 3 stitches in one (last) stitch as follows: Knit the stitch but wait to drop the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit the stitch 1 more time, then drop the stitches of the needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased). In row 16 these last 3 stitches in pattern will be knitted. Happy knitting!

20.04.2024 - 09:50

Sandra wrote:

When knitting the yoke, am I knitting A1, A2,A 1, A2…until A3, or A1, A2, A2, A2…..A3? I was doing A1, A 2, A1, A2…. and my stitches are not working out right when I get to the knit 2 together part of the pattern, around row17-18 of the diagram.

24.02.2024 - 21:36

Dear Sandra, for the jumper you only work A.1, for the jacket you will start the pattern with A.1 (after front band stitches), then repeat A.2 and end with A.3 before front band stitches. Which size are you working? This could help us checking the correct diagram. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 08:41

Elfi wrote:

Liebes Drops Team,in Reihe 19 sind die ersten 2 Maschen ein Überzug.Dadurch werden aus den 3 Maschen dann 2.In Reihe 20 sind es am Anfang wieder 3 rechts.Wo ist mein Fehler ich habe nach dem Überzug von Reihe 19 in Reihe 20 nur 2 Rechte Maschen.Vielen Dank im Voraus

23.02.2024 - 18:49

In Reihe 17 u. 33 ■ hier wird am Anfang der Runde die erste Masche versetzt. In der nächsten Runde muss man die Masche wieder auf die linke Nadeln legen und weitersricken,oder bleibt diese Masche auf der rechten Nadel? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.

19.02.2024 - 16:59

Liebe Elfi, am Anfang dieser beiden Runden wird die erste Masche vom 1. Rapport am Ende der Runde gestrickt: die letzte Masche vom jeden Rapport wird zusammen mit der 1. Masche vom nächsten Rapport gestrickt, der Umschlag wird dann die 1. Masche von den nächsten Rapport; genauso am Ende der Runde: die letzte Masche vom letzten Rapport stricken Sie zusammen mit der 1. Masche der Runde, der Umschlag ist dann die 1. Masche der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.02.2024 - 07:46

Cristina wrote:

Hola. El símbolo cuadradito negro, que indicáis "en la primera repeticion de A.1 desplazar la vuelta un punto, solo hay que hacerlo una vez al inicio de la vuelta, o hay que hacerlo durante las 17 repeticiones dentro de la misma vuelta? Solo una vez, o al principio de los 17 grupos? Gracias!!!!!!!!!

20.07.2023 - 08:43

Hola Cristina, se desplaza el pt solo en la primera repetición de A.1. Cómo puedes ver, al final de la repetición tienes una disminución, que coge el último punto de la repetición y el 1º punto de la siguiente repetición, por lo que el primer punto de cada una de las siguientes repeticiones ya se habrá trabajado con la disminución y puedes ignorar el cuadrado negro. Al final de la última repetición, disminuirás el último punto con el primer punto de la vuelta, efectivamente desplazando 1 punto el inicio de la vuelta.

20.07.2023 - 11:39

Listen to Nature

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 213-1

Comments / Questions (80)

Listen to Nature

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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