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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 213
  6. 1

Listen to Nature by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: assembly free, jumper, lace, leaf pattern, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down

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DROPS 213-1
DROPS design: Pattern no R-755
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour no 82, silver fox

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.35£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 96-96-102-114-114-120 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 round.
Work rib (= purl 2/knit 1).
When piece measures 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Work A.1 (= 6 stitches) in the round over all stitches (= 16-16-17-19-19-20 times in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 288-320-340-380-418-440 stitches on needle.
Piece now measures 14-16-16-16-18-18 cm from marker. Knit in the round.
When piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 40-45-49-53-60-65 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 81-91-98-106-120-130 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work the last 41-46-49-53-60-65 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 174-194-208-224-256-280 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve in each side (= in the sides of body). There are 87-97-104-112-128-140 stitches between marker threads on front and back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides. Knit all stitches.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 4 cm 5-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 194-210-224-244-276-300 stitches.
When piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from division, increase 13-12-13-14-15-15 stitches evenly = 207-222-237-258-291-315 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 1/purl 2).
Cast off by knitting when rib measures 4 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where it was divided.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-75-78-90-97-100 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker upwards when working. Decrease on each side of this marker thread later.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread- read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2-2-1½-1-1 cm 11-13-14-19-21-22 times in total = 47-49-50-52-55-56 stitches.
When piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm, increase 1-2-1-2-2-1 stitches evenly on next round= 48-51-51-54-57-57 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 2). When rib measures 4 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.05.2020
New chart A.1, size M-L-XL (round 18) and XXL-XXXL (round 24+39+41).

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted into pattern
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = work 3 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit stitch but wait to slip stitch knitted onto right needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches
symbols = on first repetition of A.1 displace round 1 stitch as follows: Pass the first stitch over right needle without working it, then work A.1 in the round.
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Anna wrote:

Uppskrift 213-1, stærð M. Í umferð 27 fæ ég ekki mynstrið til að stemma. Ég byrja umferðina á 2 sl lykkjum, prjóna svo 2 saman og slæ upp á en þá er eins og mig vanti eina lykkju inn á milli til að ég geti prjónað aftur 2 saman. Þetta er eins út alla umferðina, alls staðar er eins og vanti lykkju til að ég nái að taka tvær saman tvisvar sinnum. Getur verið að það vanti í mynstrið uppslátt á milli laufblaðanna í umferð 25? Með fyrirfram þökk.

15.03.2023 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Blessuð Anna. Jafnmörgum lykkjum er aukið út og fækkað í mynstureiningunni. Það á að vera sami lykkjufjöldi í umferð 25 og 27 í hverri mynstureiningu. Gangi þér vel.

14.04.2023 kl. 17:10

country flag Gerda Højer wrote:

Har valgt tyndere garn til str. large, dvs jeg har 144 masker, men hvilket mønster skal jeg vælge vedr. A1, da der er forskellige udtagninger, enten man strikker str. S M L XL XXl XXXl.

06.03.2023 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gerda, hvis du følger størrelse L med antal masker, så skal du også vælge diagrammet ifølge størrelse L :)

08.03.2023 kl. 09:37

country flag Val Ludgate wrote:

The solid black square at the beginning of round 17 states “ symbols = on first repetition of A.1 displace round 1 stitch as follows: Pass the first stitch over right needle without working it, then work A.1 in the round.”. Does this mean slip the first stitch of the round? If so what do I do with it on the next round?

06.01.2023 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ludgate, yes you will slip the first stitch of the round in first A.1 and this stitch will be worked together with the last stitch on last repeat of the round = this is now the new first stitch of the round/repeat. Happy knitting!

06.01.2023 kl. 11:43

country flag Martine Berlan wrote:

Bonjour Je tricote le modèle listen to nature et au rang 17 vous décaler le tour d une maille Est-ce que le premier motif où dans les 16 motifs? Merci pour votre réponse Cdt Martine

03.10.2022 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Berlan, au début de ce tour, glissez la 1ère maille sans la tricoter et continuez le diagramme, à la fin du diagramme, tricotez la dernière maille avec la 1ère du motif suivant (cette maille est désormais la 1ère maille du motif suivant) et continuez ainsi tout le tour; à la fin du tour, vous tricoterez la dernière maille du dernier A.1 avec la 1ère maille du tour (celle que vous avez glissé), cette maille est maintenant la 1ère maille du tour. Bon tricot!

03.10.2022 kl. 15:21

country flag Sanna wrote:

Med vilken storlek ska provlappen stickas?

20.06.2022 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sanna. Det är med den större stickan, nr 4 (eller det nummer du behöver för att få stickfastheten som uppges). Mvh DROPS Design

21.06.2022 kl. 11:39

country flag Shirley Atlee wrote:

Can this pattern be purchased with written instructions instead of graphs?

03.04.2022 - 02:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Shirley, For the moment, the pattern has only been produced with diagrams. Happy crafting!

04.04.2022 kl. 07:05

country flag Judith wrote:

A1 m-L-XL Jeg strikket kastet vridd rett i omg 2. Så lages det nyttbkast i omg 3. Skal ikke kastene strikkes vridd rett i omg 4? På diagrammet vises det vrangmaske symbol.

07.03.2022 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Judith, jo på neste omgang strikkes kastet vridd inn i mønster :)

09.03.2022 kl. 11:21

country flag Anna wrote:

Ich bin eine erfahrene Strickerin und musste die Rundpasse rippeln, weil mit den angegebenen Ms. sie viel zu weit wurde. Habe nun 13 Ms gestrickt die folgenden Zunahmen mit Raglanschrägen ausgeführt, sitzt jetzt gut! Das Diagramm hat einige Fehler, zB. bei Rundenbeginn die M. der voherigen Reihe mitnehmen in die neue Rd.

27.02.2022 - 09:48

country flag Hilde wrote:

Strikker størrelse L. På omgang 16, når man strikker de tre maskene (to rettmasker pluss et kast) som er laget i samme maske på omgang 15, skal kastet strikkes vridd?

12.12.2021 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hilde. Nej det ska ikke strikkes vridd. Mvh DROPS Design

13.12.2021 kl. 07:45

country flag Dianne Bogus wrote:

DROPS 213 -1. Listen to Nature. Query regarding knitting each pattern block in this case 17 repeats.\r\n Row 15 ● - is this repeated at the end of each pattern . Also Row 17 and 33 ■ is this repeated at the beginning of each pattern? Thank you for your assistance.

02.10.2021 - 02:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bogus, at the beg of this round, skip the first stitch (= black square) then work all diagram to the end: you will finish the diagram with decreasing together the last stitch first repeat with the first stitch next repeat, continue like this, ie the first st next repeat = black square has now been worked with the last st previous repeat. At the end of the round, decrease the last st last repeat with the first st first repeat. Happy knitting!

04.10.2021 kl. 09:11

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.