DROPS / 213 / 2

Listen to Nature Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no R-756
Yarn group B

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour no 82, silver fox

21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 6 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and work the last 4 stitches as before. On next row purl yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-6-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7½-7½-8-8½-7½-7½ cm between each.




Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 111-111-117-129-129-135 stitches (including 7 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Muskat. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When piece measures 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker after band at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!

Work as follows from right side: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2 (= band), A.1 (= 6 stitches), A.2 (= 6 stitches) until 14 stitches remain (= 14-14-15-17-17-18 times in width), A.3 (= 7 stitches), and over band purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 303-335-355-395-431-453 stitches on needle.
Piece now measures 14-16-16-16-18-18 cm from marker.
Work band stitches as before and in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches.
When piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the 7 band stitches as before, stocking stitch over the next 41-45-49-53-60-64 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work in stocking stitch over the next 81-93-99-107-119-131 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work 41-45-49-53-60-64 stitches in stocking stitch, and work 7 band stitches as before (= front piece).

= 189-209-223-239-269-293 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread after 51-55-59-63-71-76 stitches in from each side (= in the side of body). There are 87-99-105-113-127-141 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Then work in stocking stitch and the 7 band stitches in each side of piece as before.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4 cm 5-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 209-225-239-259-289-313 stitches.
When piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from division, increase 13-12-13-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 222-237-252-273-303-327 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work from right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, work rib (= knit 1/purl 2) until 2 stitches remain, and finish with knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Cast off by knitting from right side when rib measures 4 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where it was divided.

Slip the 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-75-78-90-97-100 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker upwards when working. Decrease on each side of this marker thread later.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread- read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2-2-1½-1-1 cm 11-13-14-19-21-22 times in total = 47-49-50-52-55-56 stitches.
When piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm, increase 1-2-1-2-2-1 stitches evenly on next round= 48-51-51-54-57-57 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 2). When rib measures 4 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew the buttons on to the left band.


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted into pattern
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= work 3 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit stitch but wait to slip stitch knitted onto right needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches
= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= purl 2 together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Anne Gallacher 28.11.2020 - 21:57:

When readng his pattrn, the word incease is not stated, printing 1xgarter stitch, ?is that the increase, very off putting, am aiming to knit this lovely to nature patter, cardiganstyle, having to try and calculate numbers, having a trial beginning, making my mistakes befor using my lovely wool. Confused with garterstitches in front purl at the back, when there's more stocking stitch in the leaf design

DROPS Design 30.11.2020 kl. 10:37:

Dear Mrs Gallacher, not sure to understand properly your question, sorry in advance - when working the leaf pattern = the diagrams, the increases are shown in the diagrams: you are making yarn overs and these yarn overs will be worked twisted on next row you avoid holes. Hope this will help, happy knitting!

Annamaria 15.11.2020 - 20:54:

Niente da fare ho provato e riprovato ma niente nn ci riesco, arrivo al 2 ferro del diagramma e mi fermo perché mi viene sbagliato. C'e per caso un video che lo fa vedere o qualcosa del genere? Grazie....

DROPS Design 17.11.2020 kl. 22:26:

Buonasera Annamaria, i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra per i ferri di andata e da sinistra verso destra per quelli di ritorno. Se ci spiega esattamente il punto in cui trova difficoltà possiamo aiutarla in modo più preciso. Buon lavoro!

Annamaria 14.11.2020 - 21:29:

Salve volevo sapere per lo sprone si lavorano 7 maglie per il bordo poi 6 maglie di a.1 e 6 maglie di a.2 che si ripetono fino a 14 maglie finali del ferro poi 7 maglie di a.3 e 7 maglie del bordo. Dopo questo primo ferro dello sprone gli altri sono tutti così o poi si eseguono i ferri del diagramma in giusta sequenza: a.1 poi a.2 e poi a.3 fino che nn finiscono tutte le maglie del ferro ? ( lasciando le 7 maglie finali x il bordo)

DROPS Design 14.11.2020 kl. 23:02:

Buonasera Annamaria, dopo il 1° ferro deve continuare a lavorare le 7 maglie più esterne a ogni lato per il bordo e le altre maglie con i diagramma A.1, A.2 e A.3. Buon lavoro!

Annamaria 12.11.2020 - 09:52:

Salve ho provato a farlo ma nn ci sono riuscita. Potete gentilmente scrivermi come vanno fatti i primi 8 ferri?(i tre cm di lavoro cioe') In questo modo: 1ferro a diritto = 1dir,2rov,3dir. 2ferro a rovescio= 1dir,1gett,3rov ecc ecc ho fatto un esempio. Scrivete x favore come vanno fatte le maglie del bordo pure sia nei ferri a diritto che in quelli a rovescio. Vi ringrazio se la risposta sarà così dettagliata come ho chiesto in modo da riuscire a farlo. Grazie....

DROPS Design 13.11.2020 kl. 15:43:

Buongiorno Annamaria, le istruzioni sono già dettagliate. Deve avviare le maglie e lavorare 1 ferro a rovescio. Poi lavora 1 maglia a maglia legaccio, 1 maglia diritto, e ripete (2 maglie rovescio, 1 maglia diritto) fino a quando rimangono 4 maglie, e lavorare 2 maglie rovescio, 1 maglia diritto e 1 maglia a maglia legaccio. Sui ferri a rovescio lavora le maglie come si presentano. Si ricordi di lavorare le ASOLE come indicato. Buon lavoro!

Annamaria 09.11.2020 - 17:37:

Salve sono confusa sul pattern di questo cardigan (listen to nature) La spiegazione dice di montare 111 maglie poi un ferro a rovescio e poi un ferro a diritto in cui fare: 1 maglia a legaccio, 1 diritto, * 2rovesci,1diritto* fino a 4 maglie dalla fine con: 2 rovesci, 1 diritto,1 maglia a legaccio. Nel ferro successivo cioè nella parte a rovescio nn capisco come devo fare potete aiutarmi? Grazie...

DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 10:18:

Buongiorno Annamaria, deve lavorare le maglie come si presentano. Buon lavoro!

Marianne Kenny 07.11.2020 - 02:54:

Hi when I work 3 stitches in the one stitch do I work the yarn over twisted in the following row?

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 09:23:

Dear Mrs Kenny, you can work the yarn over in the front loop of stitch on next row, but if you find this hole is too large for you, you can work it into back of loop. Happy knitting!

Sue Giles 15.07.2020 - 17:45:

I have cast on, purl one row and the second row in purl 2 knit 1 rib. I understand that I now start the buttonhole but do I also continue the rib by knit purl 1? Thanks.

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 09:36:

Dear Mrs Giles, the first buttonhole will be worked at the end of a RS row when rib edge measures approx. 1,5/2cm - see BUTTONHOLES - this means you first work some rows and when piece measures 1.5/2 cm work the first buttonhole at the end of next RS row. Happy knitting!

Gudrun 06.07.2020 - 09:48:

Kan jag köpa detta mönster eftersom jag EJ kan skriva ut det?

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 11:36:

Hej Gudrun. Det ska gå att skriva ut det om du trycker på knappen "skriv ut" och väljer mönster. Om det inte fungerar kan de se på dina inställningar på skrivaren om felet kan ligga där. Får du det inte att fungera kan säkert återförsäljaren där du köper garnet hjälpa dig! Mvh DROPS Design

Martha Bentzen 03.07.2020 - 10:32:

Listen to Nature jacket Diagram forklaring Er det ikke vrang fra retsiden og ret fra vrangen? Tak for hjælpen Martha

DROPS Design 03.07.2020 kl. 10:50:

Hej Martha. Du har rätt, det var fel i den danska översättningen. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

Gudrun Öberg 02.07.2020 - 11:48:

Kan man köpa mönstret till denna kofta?

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 11:52:

Hej Gudrun, mönstret är gratis :) Det är bara att följa här på sidan eller klicka på "skriv ut" . Lycka till :)

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