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  1. Free patterns
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Listen to Nature Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with leaf pattern and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: assembly free, jacket, lace, leaf pattern, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down

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DROPS 213-2
DROPS design: Pattern no R-756
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour no 82, silver fox

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.35£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 6 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and work the last 4 stitches as before. On next row purl yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-6-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7½-7½-8-8½-7½-7½ cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 111-111-117-129-129-135 stitches (including 7 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Muskat. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When piece measures 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker after band at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Work as follows from right side: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2 (= band), A.1 (= 6 stitches), A.2 (= 6 stitches) until 14 stitches remain (= 14-14-15-17-17-18 times in width), A.3 (= 7 stitches), and over band purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 303-335-355-395-431-453 stitches on needle.
Piece now measures 14-16-16-16-18-18 cm from marker.
Work band stitches as before and in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches.
When piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the 7 band stitches as before, stocking stitch over the next 41-45-49-53-60-64 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work in stocking stitch over the next 81-93-99-107-119-131 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches under sleeve, work 41-45-49-53-60-64 stitches in stocking stitch, and work 7 band stitches as before (= front piece).

BODY:
= 189-209-223-239-269-293 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread after 51-55-59-63-71-76 stitches in from each side (= in the side of body). There are 87-99-105-113-127-141 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Then work in stocking stitch and the 7 band stitches in each side of piece as before.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4 cm 5-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 209-225-239-259-289-313 stitches.
When piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from division, increase 13-12-13-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 222-237-252-273-303-327 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work from right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, work rib (= knit 1/purl 2) until 2 stitches remain, and finish with knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Cast off by knitting from right side when rib measures 4 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where it was divided.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-69-72-84-89-90 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-75-78-90-97-100 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker upwards when working. Decrease on each side of this marker thread later.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread- read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2-2-1½-1-1 cm 11-13-14-19-21-22 times in total = 47-49-50-52-55-56 stitches.
When piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm, increase 1-2-1-2-2-1 stitches evenly on next round= 48-51-51-54-57-57 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 2). When rib measures 4 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted into pattern
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = work 3 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit stitch but wait to slip stitch knitted onto right needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Tineke Van Steinvoorn wrote:

Door elke keer na 1 x patroon een markeerdraad in te voegen wordt het heel overzichtelijk en niet moeilijk. Als je patroon klopt hoef je steken ook niet te tellen want dan heb je automatisch het juiste aantal steken

11.03.2023 - 16:34

country flag Avril wrote:

Sorry I meant the extra square on row 16. Thank you

28.02.2023 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Yes that's because of the increases worked on row 15 - see 6th symbol (beg of A.1 and end of A.3) and 8th symbol (beg of A.2 and A.3). Happy knitting!

28.02.2023 kl. 17:49

country flag Avril wrote:

Hi. I am having problems with rows 15 and 16. At the beginning of the pattern , row 1, it says to work A1 then A2 until 14 stitches remain then work A3. I have continued to work like this only using A3 for the last repeat. This seems ok but in row 17 there is an extra white square in A2 and I don’t have a corresponding stitch. Please can you advise. Thank you

28.02.2023 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Avril, on row 15, start with A.1 and: K1, YO (increase 1 stitch) then work as before - then work (and repeat A.2): starting with work 3 sts in the same stitch (increase 2 sts = 1st of these belong to A.1, next 2 belong to A.2), then work as before to the end of diagram and repeat A.2, then work A.3 starting as A.2 working 3 sts in the same stitch (1st st belong to previous A.2, last 2 sts belong to next A.2/A.3), and increase 1 stitch before the last stitch in diagram. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

28.02.2023 kl. 17:48

country flag Avril wrote:

Hi. I am really confused with rows 15 and 16. I have looked at some of your replies but I’m still lost. From the instructions at the beginning of the pattern it says to work A1 and A2 until 14 stitches remain and then work A3. So I have continued the pattern working A1 then A2 until the last repeat where I did A3. This seems to be right but when I get to row 17 there is an extra white square at the end of A2 and I do not have a corresponding stitch. Please can you help? Thank you

28.02.2023 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Avril, you should work first A.1 then repeat A.2 until 14 sts remain and then work A.3, so that A.1 is the beginning of the pattern and A.3 the end of the pattern. Reason why on this row you will work the last stitch A.1/A.2 together with the first 2 stitches next repeat (A.2 then A.3). Happy knitting!

28.02.2023 kl. 17:44

country flag Avril Boulton wrote:

I’ve just started knitting the Listen to Nature jacket. I have never followed diagrams before to knit a pattern. I knitted the first row right to left A1 A2 and finished the row with A3 up to the button band. For the second (purl) row I understand that I should read the pattern from left to right. Does this mean I start with A3 then A2 and then finish the row with A1? Thank you.

25.02.2023 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Avril, yes, when working back and forth, the diagram will have to be worked in the opposite order from the wrong side. Remember to also work the symbols opposite to how they are shown. You can check the following lesson for more information: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=19. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 kl. 21:01

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour Talle M dans le diagramme A1 et A2 sur l'envers au rang 16 il y a une maille carrée blanc sans symbole au rang faut t'il faire un jeté ou rajoute une maille pour que le rang 17 soit juste car il manque un symbole pour avoir un rang juste pouvez vous svp me donner une réponse claire par rapport au maille carrée blanc de la façon de les insérer J'ai lu vos commentaire d'une même question et je n'y comprends rien merci beaucoup pour votre compréhension

05.11.2022 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, vous trouverez la réponse ci-dessous, si vous ne l'avez pas comprise, n'hésitez pas à nous le dire, nous reformulerons. Bon tricot!

07.11.2022 kl. 08:14

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour Talle M dans le diagramme A1 et A2 sur l'envers au rang 16 il y a une maille carrée blanc sans symbole au rang faut t'il faire un jeté ou rajoute une maille pour que le rang 17 soit juste car il manque un symbole pour avoir un rang juste je vous remercie de votre aide

04.11.2022 - 18:02

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour Talle M dans le diagramme A1 sur l'envers au rang 16 il y a une maille carrée blanc sans symbole au rang faut t'il faire un jeté ou rajoute une maille pour que le rang 17 soit juste car il manque un symbole pour avoir un rang juste je vous remercie de votre aide

04.11.2022 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, au 13ème rang des diagrammes, vous augmentez 1 m dans A.1 (un ovale noir = un jeté à tricoter torse sur l'envers), et 2 m dans chaque A.2 + dans A.3 (point noir) - 1 des mailles augmentées au début de chaque A.2/A.3 va être attribuée à A.1/au A.2 précédent, au 14ème rang ainsi, vous aurez bien 18 mailles dans A.1, A.2 et 19 mailles dans A.3. Bon tricot!

07.11.2022 kl. 07:56

country flag Nicole wrote:

Re bonjour j'ai une autre question dans le diagramme taille M-L les trois maille du symbole (rond noir ) ont les tricotte comment sur l'envers ? ?pour ma part je les tricotte a l'envers est-ce que je fait une erreur ou faut les tricoter a l'endroit sur l'envers je vous remercie pour votre aide

01.11.2022 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, vous devez les tricoter comme indiqué par le rang suivant du diagramme (torse pour éviter un trou), autrement dit, au 2ème rang (sur l'envers) vous les tricotez torse à l'envers (= case blanche = 1 m envers sur l'envers), au 4ème rang, vous les tricoterez torse à l'envers (point noir dans le diagramme = 1 m endroit sur l'envers), etc... vous devez toujours avoir 1 maille endroit au milieu de A.1, A.2 et A.3 et les nouvelles mailles de chaque côté vont être tricotées en côtes 2 m env, 1 m end. Bon tricot!

01.11.2022 kl. 15:52

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour dans le diagramme M-L ( modelé Gillet 213/2 Le symbole ovale noir ont le tricotte a l'envers torse , et tous les autres ovale est ce que ont les tricote pour faire un ajourée sur l'envers ?? ET les ajourée qui sont aux abord de chaque diagrammes ovale ont les tricotte comment en ajoure ou torse en vous remerciant

31.10.2022 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, effectivement, les jetés /ovales blancs doivent être tricotés normalement (= à l'envers sur l'envers) pour former le point ajouré, seuls les jetés = ovales noirs doivent être tricotés torse (dans le brin arrière) pour éviter des trous. Bon tricot!

31.10.2022 kl. 16:26

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