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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
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  4. DROPS
  5. 212
  6. 26

Summer Peach by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down with Fisherman’s rib stitches on yoke and ¾ sleeves. Size XS – XXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, assembly free, chunky knits, english rib, jumper, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down, wide sleeves

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DROPS 212-26
DROPS design: Pattern ai-266
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 01, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
75-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 20, pink sand

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm : Length 40 cm and 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 		from 2.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased in total on round.
On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve, and in the 4 smallest sizes)
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 2 stitches decreased.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 32-34-36-42-44-46 stitches on short circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands).
Remove one of the strands in Air and work the rest of garment with 1 strand in each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round.
When neck edge measures 4 cm, work next round as follows: * Work 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch (i.e. knit 1 stitch below next stitch), make 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* the entire round = 48-51-54-63-66-69 stitches on needle.
Work 1 round with knit over Fisherman’s rib stitch and purl over purl (purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round. Work yoke as explained below, measure yoke from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to a short circular needle size 9 mm and work A.2 in the round (= 16-17-18-21-22-23 repetitions of 3 stitches). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm from marker at the neck, work next round as follows: * Work 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch and purl 2, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* the entire round = 64-68-72-84-88-92 stitches. Work 1 round with knit stitch over Fisherman’s rib stitch and purl over purl (purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes). Then work A.3 in the round.
When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-8 cm from marker at the neck, work, A.4 in the round (= 16-17-18-21-22-23 repetitions of 4 stitches). When A.4 has been worked vertically, there are 128-136-144-168-176-184 stitches on needle. Then work A.3 in the round (= 32-34-36-42-44-46 repetitions of 4 stitches).
When piece measures 14-15-17-19-20-22 cm from marker at the neck, work A.1 in the round.

When piece measures approx. 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from marker at the neck, divide yoke for body and sleeves. I.e. work next round as follows from mid back: Knit 18-20-21-24-26-28 (= ½ back piece), slip the next 28-28-30-36-36-36 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-6-6-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), knit 36-40-42-48-52-56 (= front piece), slip the next 28-28-30-36-36-36 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-6-6-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 18-20-21-24-26-28 stitches (= ½ back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 84-92-100-108-116-128 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round, and 1 marker thread after 42-46-50-54-58-64 stitches (= in the sides on body). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 8 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat increase when piece measures 16 cm from division = 92-100-108-116-124-136 stitches.
Work until piece measures 28 cm from division in all sizes (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length).
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Cast off by knitting– read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 28-28-30-36-36-36 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 9 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-6-6-8 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 34-34-38-42-42-44 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new 6-6-8-6-6-8 stitches that were cast on under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitch mid under sleeve (applies to XS, S, M and L) = 32-32-36-40-42-44 stitches.
Work until piece measures approx. 28-26-25-22-21-19 cm from division (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Switch to double pointed needles or short circular needle size 8 mm. Work 3 ridges. Cast off by knitting– remember cast-off tip. Sleeve measures approx. 31-29-28-25-24-22 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = purl
symbols = knit
symbols = knit 1 in stitch below next stitch - this stitch is now called an Fisherman’s rib stitch
symbols = work 5 stitches in Fisherman’s rib stitch as follows: Knit 1, but wait to slip the stitch off the needle, * make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit same stitch without slipping the stitch off left needle *, work from *-* 2 times in total, then drop this stitch off left needle = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
symbols = begin here
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Elin Natås wrote:

Hvordan gjør jeg dette? Diagram A 1. Strikk 1 rett i masken under neste maske - denne masken kalles nå patentmaske. Betyr dette at jeg skal strikke en rett maske i maske nr. 2, forfra eller bakfra? Og så skal jeg gå tilbake og strikke den første masken? Mvh Elin

29.01.2022 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elin. Ta en titt på denne videoen, den viser hvordan du strikker i masken under Hvordan strikke 1 rett i masken fra forrige omgang mvh DROPS Design

31.01.2022 kl. 15:26

country flag Laurence wrote:

Bonjour, ce modèle me plaît beaucoup mais je souhaite une encolure plus large. Je respecte scrupuleusement les explications avec 3 fils et l'échantillon. J'ai essayé avec des aiguilles de 10 pour les premiers tours pour conserver le bon nombre de mailles mais ce n'est pas joli. Comment adapter le patron taille L avec encolure de 45/50 cm (pour un tour de cou de 38 cm) Merci d'avance pour vos conseils. Laurence

03.08.2021 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurence, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Votre magasin saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

03.08.2021 kl. 09:29

country flag Marilena wrote:

Diese Pulloveranleitung ist genial, einfach super. Ich habe einen Pulli mit dicker, ein zweiter mit dünner Sommer-Alpacawolle gestrickt. Danach habe ich aus Wollresten noch ein Babypulli gestrickt, immer mit dem gleichen Muster. Jetzt stricke ich noch die dazu gehörende Sommerjacke. Vielen vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Grüsse aus der Schweiz Marilena Merz

24.04.2021 - 16:59

country flag Elena wrote:

Dear Garnstudio-Team, will you please tell whether I can use Drops Melody for this model. Thank you!

06.04.2021 - 01:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elena, you can try to use Melody, instead of teh yarns given in the pattern, however the finished piece will have a different texture. As always, don't forget to make a gauge swatch and do the necessary recalculations for the stitchnumbers. For yarn amounts you can use our Yarn converter here. Happy Knitting!

06.04.2021 kl. 02:00

country flag Elena wrote:

Dear Garnstudio Team, can I use Drops Nepal for this jumper. Thank you

18.03.2021 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

See answer below :)

18.03.2021 kl. 12:27

country flag Elena wrote:

Hello! Can I use Drops Nepal for this jumper. Thank you.

18.03.2021 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elena, you can use 2 strands DROPS Nepal instead of 1 strand Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk since they all are yarn group C - but remember texture will be different since yarns have different structures - read more here. Happy knitting!

18.03.2021 kl. 12:27

country flag Carine wrote:

Hallo, ich habe die Halsblende gestrickt, wie es in der Anleitung steht, und das ist definitiv zu klein. Bei einer Maschenprobe von 10 M=10 cm und einem Anschlag von 36 M für die Halsblende (also 36 cm Umfang bei Gr M) wird da kein erwachsenen Kopf durch passen. Wenn ich aber die Anzahl der Maschen anpasse, geht die ganze Anleitung durcheinander. Haben Sie da eine Lösung für mich? Danke

15.02.2021 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carine, beachten Sie, daß Sie Ihre Maschenprobe richtig (10 M x 14 R = 10 x 10 cm) stimmt; die Maschen werden dann mit einem 3. Faden (= 2 Air + 1 Brushed) angeschlagen, und dann wird es nur mit 2 Fäden (= 1 Air + 1 Brushed) weiter gestrickt, so bekommt man die gewüschnte Elastizität bei dem Anschlag - gerne können Sie auf 2 Nadel z.B. anschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.02.2021 kl. 10:13

country flag Nerea wrote:

Buongiorno. Vorrei fare questo modello 216/26 solo con alpaca brusched silk , a due fili. È possibile? Come calcolo il n.delle maglie? Grazie

09.02.2021 - 10:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nerea, controlli che il suo campione corrisponda a quello indicato e in caso affermativo segua le spiegazioni indicate. Buon lavoro!

09.02.2021 kl. 21:54

country flag Julia Petersen wrote:

Denne opskrift står som om den kan bruges med Drops Wish. Strikkes den så bare med en enkelt tråd?

20.01.2021 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julia, ja det stemmer, så skal du bare strikke med en tråd. Du finder garnforbruget ved at bruge garnomregneren. Vælg DROPS Air, vælg garnforbruget i Air i din størrelse x 2 = i Small 150x2=300g, Medium 200x2=400g og så vælger du 2 tråde. Nu får du garnforbruget op i DROPS Wish. God fornøjelse!

20.01.2021 kl. 16:20

country flag Aerts Greet wrote:

Maat s van dit patroon begint met 34 steken wat onmogelijk over een normale hoofdomtrek kan Als ik meerdere steken opzet klopt het patroon niet meer. Komt S over een met maat 38 ??

04.11.2020 - 12:59

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.