Winter Cardinal Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted long jacket in DROPS Nepal and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted with cables, shawl collar and belt. Size: S - XXXL
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour 3608, deep red
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour 32, raspberry
KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch and cables.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!
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DROPS Nepal 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca |
from 2.20 £ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Kid-Silk 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
from 3.80 £ /25g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.
I-CORD EDGE RIGHT FRONT PIECE (applies to outermost edge along mid front):
Begin from right side, * pass the first 3 stitches on needle loosely onto right needle without working the stitches (pass 1 by 1 with thread at the back of piece), tighten yarn a bit, and work pattern and stocking stitch over the other stitches as explained in pattern, turn piece, work stocking stitch and pattern as before until 3 stitches remain on row towards mid front, purl these stitches, turn piece *, work from *-* until finished measurements.
NOTE! You need to work a few cm and pull the edge a bit before you see the best result.
I-CORD EDGE LEFT FRONT PIECE (applies to outermost edge along mid front):
Begin from right side, * work stocking stitch and pattern as before until 3 stitches on needle remain towards mid front, pass the last 3 stitches on needle loosely onto right needle without working the stitches (pass them 1 by 1 with thread at the back of piece), turn piece, tighten yarn, and purl the first 3 stitches, then work pattern and stocking stitch over the other stitches as explained in pattern, turn piece *, work from *-* until finished measurements.
NOTE! You need to work a few cm and pull the edge a bit before you see the best result.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
Decrease from wrong side before cables begin.
To calculate how to decrease evenly, count number of stitches to decrease over (e.g. 16 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 5.3.
In this example decrease by working approx. every 4th and 5th stitch purl together.
DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches to increase over (e.g. 34 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 4.25. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
TUBE KNITTING:
Knit 1 row from right side, * slide all stitches to the right side of needle without turning the piece, tighten yarn and knit over all stitches *, work from *-*.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front pieces and back piece are worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. There are cables on both front pieces and back piece. On front piece the outermost 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches towards mid front count as band with overlap.
Sew piece together on the shoulders. Pick up stitches along the armholes and work sleeves back and forth on circular needle top down until sleeve cap is done, then work the sleeves in the round until finished measurements. Work sleeves top down to adjust sleeve length to desired measurements. Then sew sleeve and side seams and collar to neck line at the back of neck.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 79-79-84-90-90-95 stitches (including 26-26-26-28-28-28 band stitches towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in the side) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Nepal and 1 strand Kid- Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid front): Work I-CORD EDGE RIGHT FRONT PIECE over the first 3 stitches - read explanation above, work A.2 (= 28-28-28-30-30-30 stitches), work A.3 (= 31-31-31-35-35-35 stitches), * knit 2, purl 3 *, work from *-* over the next 15-15-20-20-20-25 stitches, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this but work last row in A.3 and A.2 as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease at the same time 3-1-3-4-1-2 stitches evenly over these 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches - read DECREASE TIP 1, work last row in A.3 and A.2, and finish with i-cord edge over the last 3 stitches towards mid front. Piece measures approx. 6 cm from cast-on edge and there are 66-68-71-76-79-83 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Now begin cables, i.e. work next row as follows from right side: Continue with i-cord edge over the first 3 stitches mid front, work A.5 (= 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches), work A.6 (= 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches), work 13-15-18-17-20-24 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off 5-5-7-8-8-9 stitches for armhole at the beginning of row from the side = 61-63-64-68-71-74 stitches. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole until piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm.
On next row from right side, knit stitches in the outermost cable towards the side together 2 by 2 (= 4 stitches decreased) = 57-59-60-64-67-70 stitches remain on needle. Then slip stitches on stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as explained below.
Begin in the side at armhole and slip stitches on a stitch holder on every row from armhole like this (to avoid cutting the yarn work stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder): Slip 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches on stitch holder 2 times and 11-11-12-12-13-14 stitches on a stitch holder 1 time = 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches remain on needle for collar, work the rest of row as before.
Continue to work back and forth over these 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Work as before over the first 23-23-23-24-24-24 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
Row 2 (= wrong side): Work as before the rest of row, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Row 3 (right side): Work as before over all stitches, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Row 4 (= wrong side): Work as before the rest of row, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Repeat rows 1-4 until collar measures approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm on the inside at the shortest.
Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 79-79-84-90-90-95 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side and 26-26-26-28-28-28 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Nepal + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from the right side (i.e. from the side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, * purl 3, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 15-15-20-20-20-25 stitches, work A.1 (= 31-31-31-35-35-35 stitches), work A.2 (= 28-28-28-30-30-30 stitches), and finish with I-CORD EDGE LEFT FRONT PIECE over the 3 last stitches.
Continue rib like this but work last row in A.2 and A.1 as follows from wrong side: Work i-cord edge over the 3 first stitches, work last row in A.2 and A.1, work 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease at the same time 3-1-3-4-1-2 stitches evenly over these 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Piece measures approx. 6 cm from cast-on edge and there are 66-68-71-76-79-83 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Now begin cables, i.e. work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 13-15-18-17-20-24 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4 (= 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches), work A.5 (= 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches), finish with i-cord edge over the last 3 stitches mid front as before. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off 5-5-7-8-8-9 stitches for armhole at the beginning of row from the side = 61-63-64-68-71-74 stitches. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole until piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm.
On next row from right side, knit stitches in the outermost cable towards the side together 2 by 2 (= 4 stitches decreased) = 57-59-60-64-67-70 stitches remain on needle. Then slip stitches on stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as explained below.
Begin in the side at armhole and slip stitches on a stitch holder on every row from armhole like this (to avoid cutting the yarn work stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder): Slip 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches on stitch holder 2 times and 11-11-12-12-13-14 stitches on a stitch holder 1 time = 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches remain on needle for collar, work the rest of row as before.
Continue to work back and forth over these 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches as follows:
Row 1 (= wrong side): Work as before over the first 23-23-23-24-24-24 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
Row 2 (right side): Work as before the rest of row, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Row 3 (= wrong side): Work as before over all stitches, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Row 4 (right side): Work as before the rest of row, turn piece and tighten yarn.
Repeat rows 1-4 until collar measures approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm on the inside at the shortest but finish after a row from wrong side.
Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 124-124-134-144-144-154 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Nepal and 1 strand Kid- Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, knit 1, * purl 3, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 15-15-20-20-20-25 stitches, work A.1 (= 31-31-31-35-35-35 stitches), work A.2 (= 28-28-28-30-30-30 stitches), work A.3 (= 31-31-31-35-35-35 stitches), * knit 2, purl 3 *, work from *-* over the next 15-15-20-20-20-25 stitches, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this but work last row in A.3, A.2 and A.1 as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease 3-1-3-4-1-2 stitches evenly over these 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches - read DECREASE TIP-1, work last row in A.3, A.2 and A.1, work 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease 3-1-3-4-1-2 stitches evenly over these 16-16-21-21-21-26 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Piece measures approx. 6 cm from cast-on edge and there are 103-107-113-121-127-135 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Now begin cables, i.e. work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-15-18-17-20-24 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4 (= 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches), work A.5 (= 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches), work A.6 (= 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches), work 13-15-18-17-20-24 stitches in stocking stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off 5-5-7-8-8-9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armhole = 93-97-99-105-111-117 stitches remain.
Continue with pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm. On next row from right side, knit stitches in the outermost cable in each side together 2 by 2 (= 8 stitches decreased on row) = 85-89-91-97-103-109 stitches remain on needle.
Then slip stitches on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder in each side and cast at the same time off for neck as explained below.
Begin at armhole and slip stitches on a stitch holder on every row from armhole in each side like this (to avoid cutting the yarn work stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder): Slip 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches on a stitch holder 2 times in each side and 11-11-12-12-13-14 stitches on a stitch holder 1 time in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 69-72-75-78-81-84 cm, decrease 8 stitches over the 2 cables mid back (knit stitches in each cable together 2 by 2).
On next row cast off the middle 13-13-13-15-15-15 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue to slip stitches on a stitch holder and cast at the same time off 1 stitch for neck on next row from neck.
When all stitches have been slipped on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder and cast off for neck, back piece measures approx. 72-75-78-81-84-87 cm from the highest point on shoulder and down.
Finish the other shoulder the same way.
SHOULDER:
Slip the 31-33-34-36-39-42 stitches from stitch holder on one of the shoulder back on circular needle size 6 mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side over these stitches but to avoid holes in every transition where stitches were slipped on stitch holder, pick up loop between 2 stitches and slip it twisted on left needle before working it together with next stitch on left needle. Then loosely cast off all stitches by knitting from right side.
Work the same way along the 3 other shoulders.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge.
Sew collar tog mid back (make sure that seam is facing inwards when collar is folded down). Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck.
SLEEVE:
Pick up 44-48-50-54-56-58 stitches along armhole inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) - NOTE: Do not pick up stitches along the bottom of armhole.
Work in stocking stitch back and forth for 3-3-4-5-5-6 cm (= sleeve cap and as far as the bottom of armhole).
Then work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 6 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 2 cm from where marker thread was inserted, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm 5-6-7-8-8-9 times in total = 34-36-36-38-40-40 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 42-42-41-39-38-36 cm from where marker thread was inserted (sleeve has been worked to finished length, try the jacket on and work to desired length).
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-6-6-4-8-8 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 42-42-42-42-48-48 stitches.
Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 4 for 5 cm. Knit 1 round and then loosely cast off by purling.
Work the other sleeve the same way. Fold the rib at the bottom upwards on both sleeves and fasten with a couple of stitches.
MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Sew bottom of armhole.
BELT:
Cast on 5 stitches on double pointed needles size 6 mm with 1 strand Nepal + 1 strand Kid-Silk and work TUBE KNITTING - read explanation above, until belt measures approx. 250-300 cm (or desired length). Cast off. Place belt double when using it.
Diagram
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= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side |
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= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side |
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= from wrong side: knit 2 together |
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= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
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= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-24) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (77)
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Sorry, I should have been a little bit more clear with my question. I understand slipping the stitches onto holders, it’s the part after that for working the collar, which in the diagram shows a slant. The person who commented directly below my first comment had the same question but I’m unclear with your answer.
DROPS Design
10.11.2020 kl. 09:06:
Dear Mrs Bennett, sorry for misunderstanding, the slant edge of the collar on the chart will be worked with the short rows over the 26 remaining sts for collar - starting from RS (right front piece), you will work 23 sts only (leave the remaining sts unworked), turn and work these 23 sts. Turn and work now 2 rows over all the 26 sts = you have now worked 4 rows over the first 23 sts and 2 rows only over the 3 sts towards shoulder. Repeat these 4 rows will shape this slant edge for shawl collar. Hope it's now more clear for you. Happy knitting!I’m confused on the Part after placing all the stitches on holders. I follow what the pattern says but I don’t get how to get the slant that is shown in the assembly diagram. I also followed your instructions you gave to someone who asked the same question in October but I still don’t get how to get the slant? Am I doing something wrong?
DROPS Design
09.11.2020 kl. 10:46:
Dear Mrs Bennet, you will get the slant shoulders by slipping the stitches on a stitch holder while working the remaining stitch, eg on back piece, 1st size work: row 1: work the first 10 sts, slip them on a thread, work row to the end, turn and work the first 10 sts, slip them on a thread, work row to the end. Repeat these 2 rows one more time, then same but slipping this time the first 11 sts on each side on a thread. You have worked more rows over the stitches on the middle (neck) and less over the stitches on each side (on the thread). This gives you a slanted edge - work then SHOULDERS = all sts. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!I don't understand the part of the pattern on the right front that says 'row 1 (right side) work as before over the the first 23- etc stitches... ' but there are still 26- etc stitches left on the needle. Do the remaining three stitches go on the stitch holder?
DROPS Design
26.10.2020 kl. 08:38:
Dear Kerry, you are here working short rows, this means you work the first row from the wrong side over the first 23 sts only (leaving the last 3 sts unworked), turn and work row 2 from the right side as before, turn and work all stitches from the wrong side as before, turn and work all stitches from the right side as before = you worked 4 rows over the first 23 stitches and 2 rows over the lasts 3 sts. Continue repeating these 4 rows until collar measures 9 cm. Happy knitting!Merci mais je bloque encore pour autre chose, je pense que je vais simplifier le modèle qui est trop compliqué pour mon petit cerveau ! pouvez vous m'aider justement si je souhaite uniquement faire sur les devants droit et gauche la torsade comme sur le dessin, une torsade milieu manche et une milieu dos ? et le reste en point ordinaire ??? qu'en pensez vous ??? mais pour cela dois je effectuer beaucoup de changement niveau nombre de points.... encore merci et navrée de vous importuner !!!
DROPS Design
14.10.2020 kl. 12:57:
Bonjour Sylvie, je suis désolée, nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, n'hésitez pas à vous adresser à votre magasin si vous souhaitez modifier le modèle/les torsades, ils pourront probablement vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!Bonsoir et merci pour votre réponse qui m’a bien éclairé. Mais me voilà encore bloqué au rang suivant sur l’envers je commence 3 m envers mais du coup mes mailles ne correspondent plus aux mailles de l’endroit est ce normal ?
DROPS Design
13.10.2020 kl. 11:23:
Bonjour Sylvie, sur l'endroit du devant droit, le rang se termine par 3 m env, 1 m end, 1 m point mousse, sur l'envers, vous commencez alors par 1 m point mousse et tricotez ensuite les mailles comme elles se présentent: 1 m env, 3 m end etc;.. et terminez par les 3 m du Icord; Bon tricot!Bonsoir A peine entrepris l’ouvrage que je doute déjà sur ma capacité de compréhension. Quand vous dites monter 79 m y compris.... veut dire 79 + 26 ou les 26 m font parties des 79 m ??? Merci pour votre aide
DROPS Design
12.10.2020 kl. 08:06:
Bonjour Sylvie, les 26 mailles de bordure devant sont comprises dans les 79 mailles à monter, vous n'avez pas besoin de les monter en plus, vous tricotez ensuite: i-cod sur 3 mailles, A.2 = 28 m, A.3 = 31 m, 15 mailles en côtes 2 m end/3 m env, 1 m end, 1 m lis = 3+28+31+15+1+1=79 m. Bon tricot!Dans l'explication du dos du gilet vous avez ecrit au début deux fois le meme texte : tricoter le dernier rang de A3 A2 et A1ainsi sur envers , une maille lis,21m en jersey,en diminuant 3 m à intervalle régulier au dessus des 21 mailles,voir dim.tricoter le dernier rang de A3 A2 et A1 en jersey en diminuant à interv. régulier au dessus des 21 m et terminer par 1m.lis.mousse. est -ce correct ?
DROPS Design
10.09.2020 kl. 13:46:
Bonjour Mme Graff, lorsque vous tricotez le dernier rang des diagrammes sur l'envers, vous avez 21 mailles en côtes entre la maille lisière au point mousse et 1.3/A.1, ces 21 mailles vont être maintenant tricotées en jersey (= à l'envers sur l'envers) en diminuant 3 mailles à intervalles réguliers (= 21-3= on aura ainsi 18 mailles jersey de part et d'autre des diagrammes), et, au milieu dos. vous tricotez le dernier rang des diagrammes . Bon tricot!Me encantan, las prendas y las instrucciones. Me gustaría que los vídeos se relacionen con la prenda. Muchas gracias.
Hei Miten teen huivikauluksen Winter gardinal villatakkiin ??
DROPS Design
17.11.2020 kl. 16:46:
Huivikauluksen ohje löytyy etukappaleen ohjeen lopusta.Bonsoir . Est-il possible de mettre des mailles en attente en début de rang ? Quelle est la technique ? Vous dites de tricoter les mailles avant de les mettre en attente mais si elles sont tricotées , elles ne sont plus en attente . ...... Merci pour votre réponse.
DROPS Design
11.05.2020 kl. 08:39:
Bonjour Annette, tricotez ces mailles d'abord puis glissez-les en attente sur un fil ou un arrêt de mailles, et continuez à tricoter votre rang. Vous n'avez ainsi pas à couper le fil puis à le joindre après ces mailles. Bon tricot!