DROPS / 207 / 11

Day to Date by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with raglan in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down at an angle, with A-shape, cables and relief-stitches. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-182
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs yarn group B)
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour 37, misty forest

CROCHET TENSION:
16 double treble crochets in width and 5.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION: 
At the beginning of each round of double treble crochets, replace the first double treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides): 
Only decrease on rounds of double treble crochets!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker in the side as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, work A.13 (= 3 stitches), marker here, work A.12 (= 3 stitches).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Only decrease on rounds of double treble crochets!
Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, work the next 2 double treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 double treble crochet in each double crochet until there are 4 double crochets left on the round, work the next 2 double treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 double treble crochet in each of the last 2 double crochets.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW ON THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. The yoke is worked first, then divided for body and sleeves which are continued separately in the round.

YOKE:
Work 88-88-96-100-100-108 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch to the end of the round - read CROCHET INFORMATION = 88-88-96-100-100-108 double crochets.

WORK PATTERNS A.1 – A.9 AS FOLLOWS:
Insert 4 marker threads (allow them to follow your work onwards) at the same time as you work in the round as follows:
* Work A.1 over the first stitch, A.2 over 1 stitch and A.3 over 1 stitch (= sleeve), work A.4 over 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5a over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches, A.6 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 over 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), A.8 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.9a over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches and A.4 over 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches (= front/back piece) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Continue this pattern but only work A.2 as far as the arrow for your size, then work A.4 over these stitches. When A.5a and A.9a have been completed work A.5b and A.9b and then repeat these patterns onwards in height. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue until A.1, A.3, A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been completed in height.
There are 29-31-39-37-33-31 stitches on each sleeve and 75-75-79-81-81-85 stitches on the front and back pieces.
The piece measures approx. 14 cm, measured along the shoulder.

REPEAT PATTERNS A.1 – A.9 AS FOLLOWS:
The first round is worked as follows: * A.1 over the first stitch, A.4 over 27-29-37-35-31-29 stitches and A.3 over 1 stitch (= sleeve), work A.4 over 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5b over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches as before, A.4 over 17 stitches, A.6 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 over 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), A.8 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.4 over 17 stitches, A.9b over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches as before and A.4 over 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches (= front/back piece) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures approx. 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge, measured along the shoulder (i.e. approx. 7-9-10-12-14-15 rounds after the first repeat of A.1 – A.9). NOTE: Each time A.6/A.8 are finished in height, repeat A.6/A.8 in height on each side of A.7; the remaining stitches over A.6/A.8 are worked in A.4.
There are now 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches on each sleeve and approx. 95-101-107-115-119-127 stitches on both the front and back pieces = a total of approx. 280-304-332-352-360-380 stitches.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches, skip the sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches), work the front-piece stitches as before (= approx. 95-101-107-115-119-127 stitches), work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches, skip the sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches) and work the back-piece stitches as before (= approx. 95-101-107-115-119-127 stitches).
There are now approx. 202-214-226-246-258-278 stitches on the round (= approx. 101-107-113-123-129-139 stitches on the front and back pieces).

BODY:
Work 1 round with pattern as before and 1 double crochet/double treble crochet (to fit into the pattern) in each chain stitch under the sleeve. Cut the strand, and move the beginning of the round to mid under the one sleeve. Insert 1 marker mid under both sleeves.
Then work pattern as before, but decrease stitches in both sides as follows:
* Work A.4 over 2-2-4-4-5-8 stitches, A.10a or A.10b (choose the round in the diagram to match and continue the pattern from the yoke) over 11 stitches, work pattern as before; i.e. continue to increase on each side of A.7 (as shown in patterns A.6 and A.8) until there are 13-13-15-15-16-19 stitches left before the marker in the side, work A.11a or A.11b (choose the round in the diagram which matches and continues the pattern from the yoke) *, work from *-* 1 more time.
Continue this pattern; i.e. on every round of double treble crochets increase stitches on each side of A.7 as shown in patterns A.6 and A.8 (= 8 double treble crochets increased on the round) and decrease stitches in A.10 and A.11 (= 4 double treble crochets decreased on the round).
When A.10 and A.11 have been completed in height decrease 2 stitches on each side of the piece (= a total of 4 stitches each round) to finished length – read DECREASE TIP-1. Work until the piece measures approx. 25-25-26-26-26-26 cm from the division, measured along the side at the shortest point – adjust to after a round of double crochets (approx. 11 rounds of double treble crochets = 11 increases).
Now work an edge as follows: 
Work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm *, work from *-* to end of round, adjust so you finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. 
Make sure the edge is not tight; skip less stitches if necessary. Cut and fasten all strands. The jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm measured from the shoulder down, at the shortest point.

SLEEVE:
Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch under the sleeve, work 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the 2-2-2-3-4-5 chain stitches under the sleeve (whether you work double crochets or double treble crochets depends on where you are in the pattern), work 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches skipped for the sleeve and finish with 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-4-5-6 chain stitches under the sleeve = approx. 51-57-65-69-71-75 double crochets/double treble crochets.
Continue in the round according to A.4. 
When the sleeve measures 2 cm, decrease 2 stitches in the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. 
Decrease like this every 5-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm a total of 8-11-13-13-14-15 times = approx. 35-35-39-43-43-45 stitches. 
Continue with pattern until the piece measures 43-42-41-40-38-37 cm (or to desired length – NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after a round of double crochets.
Now work an edge around the sleeve as follows: Work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm *, work from *-* around the whole sleeve, adjust so you finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Work an edge around the neck as follows: Start mid-top of shoulder and fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in 1 stitch, work * 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm *, work from *-* to end of round; adjust so you finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Make sure the edge is not tight; skip less stitches if necessary. Cut and fasten the strand

Diagram

= first round already worked; it shows how the next round is worked in/around the stitches
= double crochet in stitch
= 2 double crochets in same stitch
= double treble crochet in stitch
= 3 double treble crochets in the same stitch
= RELIEF-QUADRUPLE TREBLE CROCHET (worked only on rounds of double treble crochets): Work 1 quadruple treble crochet around 1 double treble crochet from the previous round of double treble crochets (do not work in the loops but around the double treble crochet itself). Start of line = round where this relief-treble crochet begins. The circle is the end of the relief-treble crochet = shows which double treble crochet from the previous round you work around.
= RELIEF-QUADRUPLE TREBLE CROCHET (worked only on rounds of double treble crochets): Work 1 quadruple treble crochet around 1 quintuple treble crochet from the previous round of double treble crochets (do not work in the loops but around the quintuple treble crochet itself). Start of line = round where this relief-treble crochet begins. The dot is the end of the relief-treble crochet = shows which quintuple treble crochet from the previous round of double treble crochets you work around.
= RELIEF- QUINTUPLE TREBLE CROCHET (worked only on rounds of double treble crochets): Work 1 quintuple treble crochet around 1 quadruple treble crochet from the previous round of double treble crochets (do not work in the loops but around the quadruple treble crochet itself). Start of line = round where this relief-treble crochet begins. The square at the end of the relief-treble crochet = shows which quadruple treble crochet from the previous round of double treble crochets you work around.
= work 2 relief- quintuple treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 relief- quintuple treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work the next relief- quintuple treble crochet and pull the strand through all loops = 1 stitch
= 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:* Insert the hook into the next stitch, pick up the strand *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).
= 2 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER: Work 1 double treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more double treble crochet in the same way. Make 1 yarn over and pull it through all the loops on the hook.






Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Cathy 15.10.2019 - 02:43:

Can you please provide full written instructions for Chart A5.a for rows 2 through 8. I cannot understand the the Relief stitch symbols mixed in with the Sc and Tr symbols.

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 10:28:

Dear Cathy, you will find a video showing how to crochet these cables here. Happy crocheting!

Marianne Larsen 04.10.2019 - 02:38:

Kan ikke hækle - men synes faconen på denne trøje med nedadgående spids i midte for og bag er både smuk og klædelig - kunne i ikke lave den i en tilsvarende strikkeopskrift - eller henvise til en sådan hvis den allerede findes

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 07:38:

Hei Marianne. Takk for ditt forslag, ditt ønske er formidlet videre til design avdelingen. Men bruk gjerne vår søkemotor, hak av for Strikket, velg Damer undert Alle kategorier og A-facon under teknik/søgeord. Eller se på modellene DROPS 176-15 og DROPS 175-6. God Fornøyelse!

Giovanna 01.10.2019 - 22:39:

Buona sera. Ho provato a iniziare questo maglione. Ma mi manca un passaggio, o meglio non riesco a capire esattamente come faccio a iniziare con 88 catenelle e al primo giro sono invece 106in totale. Dovrei fare degli aumenti? Ma non capisco dove. Grazie mille

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 23:20:

Buongiorno Giovanna. Non ci è molto chiaro il passaggio da lei indicato. Inizia il lavoro avviando 88 catenelle, chiude in cerchio e al primo giro lavora 1 maglia bassa in ogni catenella, per un totale di 88 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Patricia GIRAUD 21.09.2019 - 23:42:

Mille mercis pour cette réponse rapide

Frances Gallagher 20.09.2019 - 13:02:

Thank you for your helpful reply to my question

Frances Gallagher 19.09.2019 - 22:22:

I'm doing the day to date sweater if I think its wide enough is there anyway I can keep the pattern shape and stop increasing can I decrease at the sides more without compromising the pattern shape

DROPS Design 20.09.2019 kl. 08:36:

Dear Mrs Gallagher, to avoid the body being too wide, you are decreasing on the sides to compensate the increases on mid front and mid back. You can then adjust the number of decreases you like to have to adjust the finished width. Happy crocheting!

Patricia GIRAUD 19.09.2019 - 19:21:

Bonjour, pouvez-vous m'expliquer le diagramme A2. Je ne comprends pas pourquoi M et XXXL se trouvent au même niveau et pourquoi la taille L est tout à la fin . En clair, je ne sais pas où commencer et où finir pour réaliser une taille M...Merci d'avance. Patricia

DROPS Design 20.09.2019 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Mme Giraud, en taille M vous crochetez A.2 à partir du 1er jusqu'au 4ème tour (la flèche se trouve entre le tour 4 et le tour 5) = vous avez 5 mailles. Au tour suivant, crochetez A.4 à la place de A.2 au-dessus de ces 5 mailles. Bon crochet!

CW Utley 18.09.2019 - 04:44:

I wonder if you could expand on the initial explanation for the pattern. The directions are quite unique. How are the sets of A.1, etc. connected? They do not seem to flow. The other directions could use clarification as well. I\\\'m fairly experienced and yet quite confused. It is so lovely though, I\\\'d like to get it right.

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 08:03:

Dear Mrs Utley, the written pattern explains how to work the different diagrams, see WORK PATTERNS A.1 – A.9 AS FOLLOWS at the beginning. You can cut the different diagrams and put them together in the same order you have to work them for your size to make them more easily to follow. Happy crocheting!

Christine 17.09.2019 - 20:43:

I’ve looked over the pattern many times and I still can not find the amount of yarn necessary!? I’m sure it varies by size so I wouldn’t mind having the amount per size please.

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 21:31:

Dear Christine, the yarn amount is next to the picture, on the right. For Size S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL you'll need 700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g of Merino Extra Fine colour 37, misty forest. Happy crafting!

Martina 16.09.2019 - 10:14:

Wunderschön! Ich könnte mir diesen Pullover auch in Sky vorstellen, oder was meinen Sie?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 12:59:

Liebe Martina, Sky und Merino Extra Fine gehoren beide zur selben Garngruppe, so kann dieses Modell mit Sky gehäkelt werden, beachten Sie, dass Garne mit unterschiedlichen Strukturen auch unterschiedlich aussehen. Auch die Lauflänge kann verschieden sein, rechnen Sie also immer die Gesamtlauflänge aus, um den Garnverbrauch zu ermitteln - siehe unseren Garnumrechner. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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