DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!


Always Bright

Crocheted hat in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris. Piece is crocheted top down with treble crochets and lace pattern.

DROPS 199-14
DROPS design: Pattern l-149
Yarn group C or A + A

Head circumference: approx. 54/58 cm

DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g colour 01, white

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200 g colour 16, white

18 treble crochets in width and 10½ rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

Approx. 1½ metre thin steel wire for edge on brim.



Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

Replace first treble crochet on round with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch from beginning of round. (When A.2 is repeated, work the 3 chain stitches as 1 treble crochet).

Decrease 1 treble crochet by working the next 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next treble but now pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook.

Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet.




Work in the round top down.

Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm with Bomull-Lin or Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Read CROCHET INFO!
Work * A.2, A.1 *, work from *-* 6 times in total in width (there are no stitches in A.2 on first round). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically, there are 90 treble crochets on round. Work 1st round in A.3 and repeat this round until piece measures approx. 16 cm from the top and down. Work last round in A.3 (= eyelet row). Then work brim as explained below: 

Work A.4 in the round (= 10 repetitions of 9 stitches). When A.4 has been worked vertically, there are 210 stitches on round. Place a thin steel wire along the edge of brim. Work 1 double crochet in every treble crochet the entire round while AT THE SAME TIME working around steel wire. This is done to make the hat more stiff along the edge. Adjust the length on wire according to desired measurements on brim. Twine the steel wire ends together and hide them in the stitches. Cut and fasten the yarn. 

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.06.2019
Correction: Missing symbol added to the symbol definition (= 2 chain stitches)
Updated online: 08.06.2021
No correction, but one line (last line) is added under CROCHET INFORMATION.
Updated online: 07.09.2022
1 slip stitch - the 2 slip stitches in A.1 row 9 are just for the start of the row.


symbols = work 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see black dot on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 1 slip stitch - the 2 slip stitches in A.1 row 9 are just for the start of the row.
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet
symbols = work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work first treble crochet but wait with last pull through, work next treble crochet and on last yarn over pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased)
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (69)

country flag Anne Nielsen wrote:

Hej kunne i skrive opskriften i stedet for diagram, syntes det er meget svært at forstå, og ser helt forkert d, mangler at vide hvor mange masker for hver omgang og hvordan a1 og a2 skal sammenspillet skal jeg hækle alle fra a1 og a2 i hver runde

15.07.2023 - 10:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne Vi prøver å imøtekomme alle våre brukere. Noen ønsker kun diagram og noen kun tekst. Til denne oppskriften er det diagrammer og en liten forklaring hvordan det skal hekles. I teksten står det hvor mange ganger diagrammene skal hekles (og man kan da telle selv antall masker etter hver omgang om man ønsker det, i denne oppskriften er det oppgitt maskeantall når A.1 og A.2 er ferdigheklet i høyden). Har du problemer med å "lese" et hekle diagram, kan du lære dette under: TIPS & HJÆLP / DROPS Lektioner / Læs en opskrift / Hvordan læses hæklediagrammer? mvh DROPS Design

25.07.2023 - 07:36

country flag Janine wrote:

Bonjour, la photo montre le 1er dessin entre les trous 7ème rang espacés de 4 brides, rang d’après 3 brides, rang d’après 2 brides. Si on fait les brides de la partie A2 à chaque fois cela ne correspond plus à la photo. Je ne sais pas si c’est clair ? Merci

30.06.2023 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Janine, au 1er tour, crochetez 6 fois A.1 tout le tour puis au 2ème tour, vous commencez le tour par A.1 puis vous crochetez A.2 et vous répétez ainsi (A.2, A.1) jusqu'à la fin du tour (remplacez les 3 mailles en l'air du début de A.2 par 1 bride pour les 5 motifs suivants). Et continuez ainsi, quand vous avez terminé A.2, continuez en répétant simplement A.1 tout le tour. En espérant que cela puisse vous aider. Bon crochet!

03.07.2023 - 09:26

country flag Monika Urbanowicz wrote:

Rozumiem że pierwsze okrążenie to 12 sł, następnie robimy 3 ocz łańc (A1) potem przerabiamy 6 razy schemat A2 i kończymy schematem A1 czyli oczkiem zamykającym w 3 oczku łańcuszka z początku okrążenia. Jak mam zrobić okrążenie 6,7, i 8? Robiąc oczko ścisłe na początku okrążenia mam omijać 3 oczka łańcuszka? Nie rozumiem jak w 10 okrążeniu i kolejnych zaczynać i kończyć słupkiem? Nie powinno być cały czas 3 oczka łańcuszka i kończenie oczkiem ścisłym?

22.06.2023 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko, od okrążenia 2 powtarzamy schematy A.2 i A.1 (naprzemiennie) 6 razy przez całe okrążenie. Co do okrążeń 6-8: przerabiasz 1 oczko zamykające w 1-szy słupek (czyli omijasz 1 słupek), następnie przerabiasz 3 oczka łańcuszka i 1 słupek w następny słupek (np. w okr. 6 będziesz powtarzać 6 razy następującą sekwencję: 1 sł w 7 następnych sł, 2 oł, ominąć 1 sł, 2 sł w ten sam słupek, 2 oł, ominąć 1 słupek). Okrążenie 10 i kolejne: zaczynasz każde od 3 oł, a kończysz przerabiając 1 oczko zamykające w 3-cie oł na początku okrążenia. Miłej pracy!

22.06.2023 - 18:19

country flag Linn Hesselmark wrote:

Hur ska jag göra på rad 10? Ska jag hoppa över två maskor i början av varje A1?

19.06.2023 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Linn. I diagramteksten under v står det: Det er kun første rapport i 9. omgang i A.1 at det hekles 2 kjedemasker i begynnelsen av diagrammet. Når du avslutter 9. omgang i A.1 avsluttet du med 2 luftmasker og 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmaske (les HEKLEINFORMASJON). Når du starter 10. omgang hekler du 3 luftmasker (= 1 stav), 1 stav i hver av de neste 5 stavene, 2 staver sammen (se diagramteksten), 1 stave i hver av de neste 6 stavene og 2 staver om luftmaskebuen. Gjenta dette omgangen rundt og avslutt omgangen med 2 staver om luftmaskebuen (denne luftmaskebuen "ligger" over de 2 kjedemaskene (vv) fra 9. omgang) og avslutt med 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmaske. mvh DROPS Design

26.06.2023 - 07:59

country flag Jacqueline Last wrote:

Als ik de foto van het hoedje bekijk Iet het er anders uit met het aantal stokjes dan op het diagram. Ik heb in rij 8 , 3 st 2 lossen 10 st. 2 lossen, 3 st 2 lossen etc. Op de foto is de punt tussen de 2 lossen boogjes 4, 3 en 2 's stokjes. De hoedje wordt zo heel wijd

05.06.2023 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacqueline,

Eerlijk gezegd snap ik niet helemaal wat je bedoeld met dat de punt tussen 2 lossenboogjes 4, 3 en 2 stokjes zijn op de foto. In dezelfde toer (dus toer 8) zie ik op de foto ook steeds 3 stokjes er tussen zitten.

07.06.2023 - 08:54

country flag Anna wrote:

Dzień dobry Jakiego drucika najlepiej użyć i gdzie się w niego zaopatrzyć? No i jak potem czyścić kapelusz, kiedy umieści się w nim drucik? Pozdrawiam - Anna

15.02.2023 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, szukaj drucika w sklepie budowlano-dekoracyjnym, są również dostępne druciki w osłonce. Przed czyszczeniem kapelusza drucik trzeba będzie wyjąć. Pozdrawiamy!

17.02.2023 - 07:50

country flag Åsa wrote:

Jag har även samma fråga som Heidi hade den 9/2 som hon inte fått svar på. Kan ni vara snäll och svara på hennes fråga. Bra om nu svara både på danska och svenska.

04.09.2022 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Åsa, de första 2 smygmaskorna skall endast virkas första gången, när diagrammet upprepas, virkas 2 lm, hoppa över 2 st, 14 st, 2 lm, hoppa över 2 st, 14 st osv :)

07.09.2022 - 08:48

country flag Åsa Zellin wrote:

Läser man ert tips på hur ett diagram läses står det att A2 innehåller både börjar och slutet på varvet men om jag läser så får jag inte det att gå ihop. Det blir fel i virkningen så då kan man inte läsa diagrammet som ni tipsar. Tex att de 3 luftmaskorna ska vara i början på varvet och smygmaskan i slutet med de övriga stolparna i A2? Ska de virkas i början eller i slutet av varvet eller ska de alltid virkas tillsammans med A1?

04.09.2022 - 00:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åsa. Du skal hekle A.1 og A.2 6 ganger i bredden, Men under HEKLEINFORMASJON står det at første stav på omgangen (ikke første stav i hver A.2) skal erstattes med 3 luftmasker, altså kun første gang av de 6 gangene, og når du har heklet A.1 og A.2 6 ganger avslutter du omgangen med 1 kjedemaske i den 3. luftmasken. mvh DROPS Design

05.09.2022 - 14:18

country flag Beanca wrote:

Je begint eerst met het haken van A1 en A2. En dat 6 maal. Ik snap de streep er tussen niet. Betekend dit dat je A2 alleen bij het begin van de toer haakt, of herhaal je deze steken ook 5 x? Dus is de derde toer : 3 lossen (=1 stokje), 2 stokjes, meerderen, 1 stokje en dan de herhaling 3 stokjes, meerderen 1 stokje of 3 lossen (= 1 stokje), 1 stokje “1 stokje, meerderen, 1 stokje” en alleen tussen “ en “ herhalen?

27.06.2022 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Beanca,

De streep ertussen geeft aan waar A.2 eindigt en A.1 begint. Je haakt dus A.2 en dan A.1 en vervolgens herhaal je dit. Dus na A.2 haak je opnieuw A.1 en A,2, enzovoort.

03.07.2022 - 13:47

country flag Thea De Raes wrote:

Volgens mij staat er nog een fout in het Nederlandstalig patroon. Er staat: Haak * A.2, A.2 *, haak van *-* 6 keer in totaal in de breedte (er zijn geen steken in A.2 op de eerste toer). En dat moet volgens mij zijn: Haak * A.1, A.2 *, haak van *-* 6 keer in totaal in de breedte (er zijn geen steken in A.2 op de eerste toer). Met vriendelijke groeten, Thea

21.06.2022 - 10:38