DROPS / 199 / 19

Sweet Nothing Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with stripes and a split in each side. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-039
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 13, light jeans blue
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour 12, jeans blue
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 07, light sea green

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blue) NO 612: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 95 stitches) minus edge stitches in garter stitch on each side (= 4 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches with the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 4.5.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes.

STRIPES BODY:
Work stripes as follows:
Stripe-1: Work 18-19-19-20-21-21 cm with light jeans blue.
Stripe-2: Work 18-18-19-20-20-21 cm with jeans blue.
Stripe-3: Work with light sea green to finished length (= 17-18-19-19-20-21 cm).

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Continue with jeans blue until the stripe measures a total of 23 cm in all sizes, then work with light sea green to finished length.

RAGLAN (for sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch after/before marker thread on sleeve as follows: Work as far as the first marker thread on sleeve, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work as far as 1 stitch before the next marker thread, 1 yarn over and knit 1. Repeat on other sleeve (= 4 stitches increased on row. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side until there are 4 stitches left on the row then cast off the next 2 stitches and knit 2. On next row cast on 2 new stitches above the cast-off stitches.
First buttonhole is worked when piece measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the next 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-10-10-9-9 cm between each.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Body is worked back and forth as far as the split in the sides, then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 103-107-111-115-119-123 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and light jeans blue. Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit.
ROW 3: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, purl until there are 5 stitches left and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4,5 mm. Work STRIPES BODY – read description above and pattern as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 1 stitch), A.2 – choose diagram for your size (= 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches), insert 1 marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 11-13-15-9-11-13 , 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), A.3 – choose diagram for your size (= 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches), A.4 (= 1 stitch; mid-stitch back), A.2 – choose diagram for your size, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 11-13-15-9-11-13 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), A.3 – choose diagram for your size, A.5 (= 1 stitch), (= right front piece) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN – read description above, on each side of the sleeves and increased 2 stitches mid-back (on each side of mid-stitch = A.4), increased 1 stitch on each front piece (after A.1 and before A.5) = 111-115-119-123-127-131 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLES - read description above. Continue like this back and forth increasing to raglan on sleeves every 2nd row 21-25-26-31-31-30 more times (a total of 22-26-27-32-32-31 times), AT THE SAME TIME when the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat the last 2 rows in height 20-23-27-28-33-36 more times (i.e. until there are 49-55-63-65-75-81 stitches stocking stitch between A.2 and A.3 on back piece and 25-28-32-33-38-41 stitches stocking stitch between A.2/A.3 and band on each front piece) = 295-327-351-379-403-415 stitches. Continue with textured pattern over the 18-18-18-22-22-22 stitches in A.2 and A.3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge and down mid front.
The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 48-51-55-60-65-68 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 57-67-71-75-77-77 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-18 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 85-91-99-109-119-125 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 57-67-71-75-77-77 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-18 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 48-51-55-60-65-68 stitches as before (= left front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 201-213-233-253-277-297 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 5-5-6-6-7-9 new stitches on each side of the marker threads). Continue with the last 2 rows in A.2 and A.3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and work garter stitch over the 4 middle stitches under the sleeves (= 2 stitches garter stitch on each side of both marker threads in the sides) with the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 16 cm place the first and last 53-56-61-66-72-77 stitches on a thread for left and right front pieces. Then finish the front/back pieces separately (gives you the split in each side).

BACK PIECE:
= 95-101-111-121-133-143 stitches. Work pattern A.2/A.3, stocking stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch on each side as before. When the piece measures 27 cm work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 20-20-22-24-26-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 115-121-133-145-159-171 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the rib measures 4 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when casting off if necessary. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 53-56-61-66-72-77 stitches from the thread back on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work pattern back and forth as before. When the piece measures 27 cm work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 9-9-11-11-13-15 stitches evenly spaced = 62-65-72-77-85-92 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when casting off if necessary. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work the same way as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Place the 57-67-71-75-77-77 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-18 stitches cast on under sleeve = 67-77-83-87-91-95 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-9 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Work stocking stitch in the round and STRIPES SLEEVE - read description above. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this as follows in the different sizes:
Size S: Decrease every 2 cm 7 times and every 3 cm 6 times.
Size M: Decrease every 2 cm 12 times and every 3 cm 3 times.
Size L: Decrease every cm 5 times and every 2 cm 12 times.
Size XL: Decrease every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times.
Size XXL: Decrease every cm 12 times and every 2 cm 7 times.
Size XXXL: Decrease every cm 16 times and every 2 cm 4 times.
When all the decreases are finished there are 41-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-36-35-33-32 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches evenly spaced = 50-56-58-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl; to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-40-39-37-36 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Anne 31.08.2019 - 13:38:

Hej igen, bare glem mit “knaphuls spørgsmål” jeg havde åbenbart ikke fået skrevet hele opskriften ud !

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 15:32:

Hej Anne, Super - god fornøjelse! :)

Anne 31.08.2019 - 10:04:

Er lige begyndt på denne model og har strikket de første 4 pinde. I opskriften står der så “husk knaphul”. Dette skal selvfølgelig strikkes i de 5 ret m kanten, men over hvor mange masker og hvor i opskriften står der noget om det?

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 15:31:

Hej Anne, ser at du har fundet svaret selv :)

Gry Rønnevik 02.08.2019 - 10:39:

Hei. Hvis jeg legger sammen alle mønstrene som er oppgitt får jeg 132 masker, mens det i oppskrifta bare står oppført 119masker. På størrelse L. Får da 5 stolper rille, A1=1m, A2=16-m, 1mr, 1k, 15r, 1k, 1r, A3=16m, A4=1m, A2=16m, 1r, 1k, 15 m, 1k, 1r, A3=16-m, A5=1m, 5stolpemasker. Dette blir 132 m, men det står oppført 119m. Hvor er feilen?

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 11:43:

Hej Gry, hvis du lægger dine tal sammen så får du 111 m (uden kast) + 4 kast (på hver side af ærmet) + 4 kast (fra diagrammerne) = 119 masker. God fornøjelse!

Christa 28.03.2019 - 15:19:

Toll ich habe gerade die deutsche Uebersetzung gefunden,freue mich sehr,bin am nachdenken ob ich beide Jacke und Pullover stricke. Besten Dank Christa.

Martine 18.12.2018 - 08:43:

Proposez le même au crochet. Merci

Ilovedogs 17.12.2018 - 19:46:

Bello e adatto a qualunque età

Chantal 13.12.2018 - 00:24:

Bonsoir ... J'adore ce modèle, il est chic tout en étant tout allé... Bien Habillée pour les jeunes aux ainées ! BRAVO à tous vos CRÉATEURS et grand merci de nous donner la possibilité de les réaliser avec tous vos tutos que vos nous proposés ! ... Cordialement Vôtre Chantal

Angelika 11.12.2018 - 19:10:

Raglan-Teile bevorzuge ich besonders, da sie sich viel besser stricken und individuell anpassen lassen. Außerdem entfällt das lästige Zusammennähen. Diese Jacke gefällt mir sehr gut in ihrer Farb- und Formgebung.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 199-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.