DROPS / 201 / 5

Daisy Chain by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern r-749
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 04, lilac

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
Work every row back and forth and work together at the end/beginning of every row as follows:
Beginning every row with treble crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
Begin every row with double crochets with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet, turn piece.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 93 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 13.3. I.e. in this example increase by working 2 double crochets in same stitch in approx. every 13th stitch.
To decrease evenly in this example work every 12th and 13th stitch together, i.e. work 2 treble crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3 and A.4).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke and body back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and work together at the end of every row, top down. Work sleeves back and forth but work piece together at the end of every row, top down.

YOKE:
Work 109-114-118-123-129-133 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with Muskat and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch - read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-1-5-3-2-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* = 93-97-101-105-110-114 double crochets.
Work first row from wrong side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 7-15-23-23-30-30 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-112-124-128-140-144 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work A.1 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions of 4 stitches) (= half back piece), work A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions of 1 stitch), A.1 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= sleeve), A.1 over 36-40-44-44-56-56 stitches (= 9-10-11-11-14-14 repetitions) (= front piece), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions), A.1 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= sleeve), A.1 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions = half back piece).
Continue to work until A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically (= 140-152-164-188-200-224 stitches) – AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing to 140-150-160-190-200-220 stitches. Piece measures approx. 6 cm.
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work A.3 over all stitches (= 14-15-16-19-20-22 repetitions over 10 stitches).
Continue to work until A.3 has been worked vertically = 196-210-224-247-260-286 stitches. Piece measures approx. 11 cm.
Work next row as follows from wrong side:
Work A.4 over all stitches (= 18-19-20-22-24-26 repetitions over 11 stitches) – AT THE SAME TIME on first row adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing to 198-209-220-242-264-286 stitches so that repetitions fit.
Continue to work until A.4 has been worked vertically (= 234-247-260-286-312-338 stitches), but on last row increase 0-11-19-8-6-10 stitches evenly = 234-258-279-294-318-348 stitches. Piece measures approx. 19 cm.

SIZE S:
If measurements are not correct, work A.5 over all stitches (= 78 repetitions of 3 stitches) until piece measures 19 cm – adjust so that next row is only with treble crochets.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Then work A.5 over all stitches (= 86-93-98-106-116 repetitions of 3 stitches) until piece measures 21-22-24-26-28 cm – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st-2nd-2nd-4th-4th row increase 6-15-6-6-6 stitches evenly = 264-294-300-324-354 stitches. Continue until piece measures 21-22-24-26-28 cm, adjust so that next row is a row with only treble crochets.

ALL SIZES:
= 234-264-294-300-324-354 stitches. Now divide body and sleeves as follows (repeat A.5 vertically until finished measurements):
Work as before over the first 35-38-42-44-50-54 stitches (= half back piece), skip the next 48-57-63-63-63-69 stitches (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches (= mid under sleeve), work as before over the next 68-74-84-86-98-108 stitches (= front piece), skip the next 48-57-63-63-63-69 stitches (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches (= mid under sleeve) and work as before over the remaining 35-38-42-44-50-54 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 150-162-180-198-222-240 stitches. Continue pattern as before over all stitches (= 50-54-60-66-74-80 repetitions A.5 of 3 stitches). When piece measures 4 cm from division, decrease 3 treble crochets evenly on next row (adjust to decrease on a row with only treble crochets). Decrease like this every 4 cm 2 times in total = 144-156-174-192-216-234 stitches. For every decrease work 1 repetition less of A.5 in width.
When piece measures 14 cm from division, increase 3 treble crochets evenly (adjust to increase on a row with only treble crochets). Increase like this every 4 cm 4 times in total = 156-168-186-204-228-246 stitches. For every increase work 1 repetition more of A.5 in width. Continue until piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm from division (50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from neck in the middle of front piece), finish after 1 row with treble crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and work together with 1 slip stitch on every row.
Begin by working in the 4th-4th-4th-7th-7th-7th chain stitch of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 chain stitches worked in armhole on body as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-2-2-6-6-6 chain stitches, A.5 over the next 48-57-63-63-63-69 treble crochets (= 16-19-21-21-21-23 times in width) and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-6-6-6 chain stitches under sleeve = 54-63-69-75-75-81 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of row.
Continue pattern as before over all stitches (= 18-21-23-25-25-27 repetitions of 3 stitches). When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 3 treble crochets evenly on next row (adjust to decrease on a row with only treble crochets). Decrease like this every 5½-3½-3-2-2-2 cm 5-8-9-11-10-11 times in total = 39-39-42-42-45-48 stitches. For every decrease work 1 repetition less of A.5 in width. Continue until piece measures 37-35-35-33-31-29 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), finish after 1 row with only treble crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work back and forth over chain stitch row in neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Begin mid back, fasten yarn to piece with 1 slip stitch in a double crochet, work 2 chain stitches (= 1 half treble crochet), work 1 half treble crochet in every double crochet the entire row = 93-97-101-105-110-114 half treble crochets. 
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in every half treble crochet = 93-97-101-105-110-114 double crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - BODY: Continue pattern as before over all stitches (= 50-54-60-66-74-80 repetitions A.5 of 3 stitches).

Diagram

= row has already been worked, begin on next row
= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble around chain stitch/chain space
= WORK 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in next stitch, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
= double treble crochet in stitch
= row with increase or decrease



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Rana Totah 16.06.2020 - 17:52:

Can you please advise how to increase on the last row of A1 and A2 to reach the 140 stitches, the increase in the diagram is just showing in A2 Thanks

DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 07:41:

Dear Mrs Totah, the increases will be worked in each A.2 (= you increase 5 sts in each A.2 and work 8 repeats (in size S) of A.2 in the round = 40 sts increased = there are 140 sts. this lesson shows how to read diagrams, this could help you to work A.1 and A.2. Happy crocheting!

Maggie 07.06.2020 - 21:09:

Do the numbers in the final diagram represent number of stitches or centimeters?

DROPS Design 07.06.2020 kl. 21:33:

Dear Maggie, the numbers in the final diagram represent cm. Happy crocheting!

Annie 10.05.2020 - 18:12:

Per favore quandi si dice lavorare a1 rip. 4 maglie si ripete solo il primo rigo oppure tutti e 4 di a1. Come faccio a sapere quando si legge solo 1 rigo da ripetere oppure tutto il diag. A1. Grazie

DROPS Design 10.05.2020 kl. 21:11:

Buongiorno Annie. Si lavora una riga alla volta. Alla prima riga, lavora come indicato nella prima riga di A1 sul numero di maglie indicato. P.es per la taglia S lavora la prima riga su 16 m. Finita la prima riga, passa a lavorare come indicato nella seconda riga di A1 e così via. Il diagramma A1 viene lavorato 1 volta in verticale. Buon lavoro!

Lucy 08.05.2020 - 15:51:

Molte mie amiche hanno rinunciato ai vs modelli perche non si capiscono bene, io testarda ci ho provato per molto tempo pensando di riuscirci, ma onestamente ho fallito anche io. Per favore potreste fare gli schemi come fanno tutti.? È un peccato ..dopo aver comprato il filo dover rinunciare e scegliere altro. Grazie

Tiziana 28.04.2020 - 16:17:

Buongiorno, non capisco una cosa , ma se nel diagramma 5 devo fare tutte quelle diminuzioni nella taglia xxl anche aumentando le 6 maglie previste non arrivo a 324 maglie o sbaglio ? Cosa mi sfugge? grazie

Nubia María Macías M 18.04.2020 - 10:12:

Todo está de maravilla hermosos pero la verdad nos falta el diagrama gracias

Giovanna Profilio 31.03.2020 - 12:38:

Chiedo scusa, magari la mia è una domanda stupida. Che cosa significa (600-650-750-800-900-950 g colore 04)? Non riesco a capire quale sia la quantità esatta di filato necessaria per la realizzazione

DROPS Design 01.04.2020 kl. 08:29:

Buongiorno Giovanna. I numeri indicano la quantità in grammi necessaria a seconda della taglia. Quindi p.es per la taglia S occorrono 600 g, per la taglia M 650 g e via di seguito. Buon lavoro!

Jan Shearing 01.03.2020 - 15:57:

I\'m having trouble getting the tension - it should be 18 treble crochets in width 10 10 cm, but mine only measures 9 cm, but the vertical, instead of 9 treble rows for 10 cm, I already have 9 cm when I\'ve only done 5 treble rows. It\'s a long time since I have crocheted but think I must be doing something wrong. Please help.

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 11:37:

Dear Mrs Shearing, the crochet tension is quite individual, make sure to adjust hook size to get the correct tension in width and try to make your stitches somewhat less high to get the right tension in height. read more about tension here. Happy crocheting!

Rocchina 26.02.2020 - 11:37:

Vorrei sapere se esiste un filato adatto al periodo estivo più leggero del cotone,

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 13:33:

Buongiorno Rocchina. Può provare con il filato Bomull lin, un misto cotone lino. Appartiene ad un altro gruppo di filati rispetto al Muskat. Verifichi se riesce ad ottenere lo stesso campione indicato nel modello. Per ulteriori consigli, può rivolgersi anche al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Robby 19.08.2019 - 17:31:

Hoe begin ik met regel 3 van patroon A.5 ? Eerst 3 losse als eerste stokje maar hoe dan verder?? Met de losse en minderen?

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 12:47:

Dag Robby,

Op toer 3 begin je met 1 losse, dan sla je 1 stokje van de vorige toer over en haak je 2 stokjes samen, dan haak je nog een losse. Vervolgens begin je weer met 1 losse. Het komt er dus op neer dat je steeds 2 lossen haakt, 1 stokje van de vorige toer over slaat en dan 2 stokjes samen haakt.

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