DROPS / 202 / 2

Color Clash by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with stripes in 2 strands DROPS Air. Piece is knitted bottom up with V-neck and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-205
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 08, light pink
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 07, ruby red
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 18, light grey green
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 25, raspberry
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 21, sea blue
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 22, yellow
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 17, denim blue
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 09, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 11, peacock blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 16, blue

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch in 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS (cedar) NO 512: 3 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 73.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES: 
Work ribs in ruby red and the rest of piece in stripes and stocking stitch (with edge stitches and band stitches in garter stitch). Stripes are drawn in diagram A.1. Leave a thread of approx. 15-20 cm at colour changes, use the strand to sew side seams and seam on undersides of sleeves.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 71 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.1. In this example work approx. every 9th and 10th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease for neck inside 4 stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows before 4 stitches in garter stitch: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows after 4 stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 26 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 6. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 35-44-53 cm
M: 36-45-54 cm
L: 37-46-55 cm
XL: 38-47-56 cm
XXL: 39-48-57 cm
XXXL: 40-49-58 cm
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth in 2 strands on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 71-71-77-83-89-95 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm, adjust to finish with next row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 9-5-7-9-11-13 stitches evenly over the next 63-63-69-75-81-87 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches on needle.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) until piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm from cast-on edge. At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 3 stitches in each side for armholes = 56-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches (work rest of stitches as before) then cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch inside 4 stitches in garter stitch on next row from neck =23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm from cast-on edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the side), * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= mid front). Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm, adjust to finish with next row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 6-4-8-6-10-8 stitches evenly over the next 33-33-39-39-45-45 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are now 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on needle. Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) until piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm. Now begin decrease for V-neck inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every other row from right side 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of row from right side. Then work in stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side until finished measurements. When all decreases are done, 23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, make sure to cast off on same colour stripes as on back piece. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: work 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= mid front), * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the side). Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm. To get the colour change in the side of piece and not mid front, now work 1 row more in rib on this front piece than on back piece and left front piece, so that the colour change happens in the side automatically. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 6-4-8-6-10-8 stitches evenly over the next 33-33-39-39-45-45 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are now 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on needle.
Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. When piece meausures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm, begin decrease for V-neck inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch, decrease 1 stitch inside the 4 stitches in garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every other row from right side 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side until finished measurements.
When all decreases are done, 23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, make sure to cast off on same colour stripes as on back piece and left front piece. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until rib measures 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row increase stitches as follows - read INCREASE TIP: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and increase 4-6-8-4-6-8 stitches evenly over the next 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. There are now 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches on needle. Continue with stripes until piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Do assembly with 1 strand to avoid chunkcy seams. Use a colour that matches the stripes. Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off-edge, make sure that the seam is even and flat. Sew sleeves in body. Sew seams along under side of sleeves inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Sew side seam in outermost loop of edge stitches down along side of body, begin at armhole and sew until approx. 17 cm remain at the bottom of jacket (= vent). Repeat in the other side. Sew the buttons on to left band. Fasten off.

Diagram

= light pink
= sea blue
= light grey green
= raspberry
= denim blue
= navy blue
= wheat
= yellow
= ruby red
= blue
= peacock blue


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Femke 14.07.2019 - 23:23:

Ik snap het eigenlijk helemaal niet,is er geen video waar je dit kledingstuk in maakt met uitleg en traag voorgedaan? Dit zou erg handig zijn

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 13:54:

Dag Femke,

Er zijn niet per kledingstuk video's, maar wel voor heel veel technieken die in de verschillende kledingstukken gebruikt worden. Aan de linkerkant van het patroon vind je een link naar video's die van toepassing zijn op dit patroon.

Gro Bjeren 07.06.2019 - 14:39:

Hei! Ang. overvidde. f.eks 124 cm. er det på kropp eller jakken ferdig strikket? Er man 124 cm så er det vanligvis for lite å strikke S. Tenker heller XL, men det er kanskje annerledes i denne oppskriften?

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 14:56:

Hei Gro. Målene på målskissen referer til det ferdigstrikkede plagget. God fornøyelse

Helene 24.04.2019 - 07:57:

I opskriften er der ingen udtagninger på ærmet udover de masker der tages ud efter ribkanten - er det en fejl i opskriften?

DROPS Design 26.04.2019 kl. 14:13:

Hei Helene. Denne genseren har posete ermer, så det stemmer at de er like vide hele veien. Dette kan du også se ermene og ermhullsåpningen på målskissen. God fornøyelse

Victoria 04.03.2019 - 06:43:

Jag är ingen van stickare. Betyder "2 trådar" helt enkelt att jag stickar två garntrådar parallellt, som att de vore en garntråd?

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 11:19:

Hej. Ja precis, det är så vi menar (så garnet blir då alltså dubbelt så tjockt jämfört med om du hade stickat med en tråd). Mvh DROPS Design

May Britt Olsen 07.02.2019 - 09:09:

Kunne tenkt meg å strikke den i en farve, hvor mange nøster trenger jeg til str S

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 11:02:

Hei May Britt. Vi har dessevrre ikke oversikt over garnmengden i ensfarget. Vi runder alltid opp til nærmeste hele nøste når vi oppgit garnmengde. Du kan se om du finner en lignende oppskrift i samme garn og bruke garnmengden der som utgangspunkt. Det er mulig å filtrere søk etter garntype, eller eventuelt etter garngruppe E. God fornøyelse

Dorte Olesen 20.01.2019 - 12:39:

Kan man købe opskriften og få den sendt på mail

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 10:40:

Hej Dorte, opskriften er gratis. Inde på opskriften klikker du på det lille printer-symbol (i højre side - lige ud for Instruktioner) hvor der står "opskrift" og så er det bare at printe opskriften ud. God fornøjelse!

Catherine 18.01.2019 - 17:47:

Why have you disabled the favourites button from your site, i had saved patterns there

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 09:12:

Dear Catherine, this function will be available.soon again. Happy knitting!

Catherine Hupet 17.12.2018 - 12:01:

Suis de belgique pourquoi toujours cette feuille de vote cachant les diagrammes pourquoi ?????sur le site drops tricot ?????pourquoi

Marcin 14.12.2018 - 15:32:

I like this one!

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