DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Olive wood No. 512

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 76.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Color Clash

Knitted jacket with stripes in 2 strands DROPS Air. Piece is knitted bottom up with V-neck and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 202-2

#colorclashcardigan

DROPS design: Pattern ai-205
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 08, light pink
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 07, ruby red
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 18, light grey green
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 25, raspberry
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 21, sea blue
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 22, yellow
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 17, denim blue
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 09, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 11, peacock blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 16, blue

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch in 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS (cedar) NO 512: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work ribs in ruby red and the rest of piece in stripes and stocking stitch (with edge stitches and band stitches in garter stitch). Stripes are drawn in diagram A.1. Leave a thread of approx. 15-20 cm at colour changes, use the strand to sew side seams and seam on undersides of sleeves.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 71 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.1. In this example work approx. every 9th and 10th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease for neck inside 4 stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows before 4 stitches in garter stitch: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows after 4 stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 26 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 6. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 35-44-53 cm
M: 36-45-54 cm
L: 37-46-55 cm
XL: 38-47-56 cm
XXL: 39-48-57 cm
XXXL: 40-49-58 cm
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth in 2 strands on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 71-71-77-83-89-95 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm, adjust to finish with next row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 9-5-7-9-11-13 stitches evenly over the next 63-63-69-75-81-87 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches on needle.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) until piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm from cast-on edge. At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 3 stitches in each side for armholes = 56-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches (work rest of stitches as before) then cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch inside 4 stitches in garter stitch on next row from neck =23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm from cast-on edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the side), * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= mid front). Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm, adjust to finish with next row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 6-4-8-6-10-8 stitches evenly over the next 33-33-39-39-45-45 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are now 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on needle. Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) until piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm. Now begin decrease for V-neck inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every other row from right side 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of row from right side. Then work in stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side until finished measurements. When all decreases are done, 23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, make sure to cast off on same colour stripes as on back piece. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: work 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= mid front), * knit 3, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 3 and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the side). Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm. To get the colour change in the side of piece and not mid front, now work 1 row more in rib on this front piece than on back piece and left front piece, so that the colour change happens in the side automatically. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm.
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease stitches as follows: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and decrease 6-4-8-6-10-8 stitches evenly over the next 33-33-39-39-45-45 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch. There are now 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on needle.
Continue with stripes, stocking stitch (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. When piece meausures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm, begin decrease for V-neck inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch, decrease 1 stitch inside the 4 stitches in garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every other row from right side 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side until finished measurements.
When all decreases are done, 23-25-26-28-29-31 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, make sure to cast off on same colour stripes as on back piece and left front piece. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with 2 strands ruby red. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until rib measures 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Now work STRIPES – read explanation above – AT THE SAME TIME on first row increase stitches as follows - read INCREASE TIP: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch and increase 4-6-8-4-6-8 stitches evenly over the next 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. There are now 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches on needle. Continue with stripes until piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Do assembly with 1 strand to avoid chunkcy seams. Use a colour that matches the stripes. Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off-edge, make sure that the seam is even and flat. Sew sleeves in body. Sew seams along under side of sleeves inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Sew side seam in outermost loop of edge stitches down along side of body, begin at armhole and sew until approx. 17 cm remain at the bottom of jacket (= vent). Repeat in the other side. Sew the buttons on to left band. Fasten off.

Diagram

	= light pink
	= sea blue
	= light grey green
	= raspberry
	= denim blue
	= navy blue
	= wheat
	= yellow
	= ruby red
	= blue
	= peacock blue

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #colorclashcardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (16)

Sara Norinder wrote:

Hej! Jag skulle vilja göra denna kofta, men hittar inte färg nr 25 eller 21 någonstans. Kan ni tipsa om vilka färger man kan ta istället?

30.08.2024 - 17:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sara. Farge 21 og 25 er dessverre utgått fra vårt sortiment. Men ta en titt på fargekartet til DROPS Air, mange farger å velge i :) Kanskje du liker farge 10, 27 eller 30 for å erstatte 21? For å erstatte 25 kan du kanskje velge farge 44 om du ønsker en rødtone eller kanskje velge noe rosatoner (53, 52 eller 39). Eller kanskje en lyngfarge (14)? mvh DROPS Design

02.09.2024 - 10:59

Luise wrote:

Ich möchte die Jacke in Größe "S" stricken und habe die Wolle bestellt, in der Menge wie vorgegeben. Für einige Farben benötigt man nur ein Knäuel. Die Jacke wird aber mit 2 Fäden gestrickt. Wie gehe ich da vor? Nehme ich Anfang und Ende vom Knäuel gleichzeitig ? Reicht die Menge denn ?

22.07.2024 - 09:49

Liebe Luise, wenn Sie sich an die Maschenprobe und die Maßangaben halten, reicht die Wolle. Das Stricken mit 2 Fäden machen Sie bei einem Knäuel so, wie Sie es geschrieben haben - den Faden aus dem Knäuelinneren und von außen zusammen verwenden. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.07.2024 - 23:34

Paulissen Martine wrote:

Pour le modèle 202-2, vous ne précisez pas dans les explications qu il faut tricoter les fentes de côté au point mousse (4 mailles) jusqu'à 17 cm.

30.12.2022 - 16:12

Bonjour Mme Paulissen, en fait, vous tricotez 4 mailles point mousse sur le côté (de chaque côté pour le dos) jusqu'à ce que vous rabattiez les mailles des emmanchures, autrement dit, pas seulement le long des fentes - sur la 1ère photo, on voit légèrement le côté et les mailles point mousse qui continuent après la fente. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 13:21

Janna Vittrup Olsen wrote:

Angående ærmevidje.Der skal tages ud efter ribben og ikke mere opad.Det vil sige at der kun kan blive et halv ærme.Jeg mener at der skal tages ud,for at det kan blive et ærme,som passer til trøjen.

27.11.2021 - 18:10

Birgitte wrote:

Udtagning til hals: Der står at der skal tages ud på hver 2. Pind fra retsiden. Er det så hver 4. Pind eller er det blot på hver retpind, altså på hver 2. Pind?.Jeg har forsøgt at kigge på billedet, men det er svært at se. På tegningen ser det ud som om det er hver 4. Pind. Hvis det er på hver 2. Pind, så bliver indtagningen færdig meget hurtigere og der er et langt stykke, der er lige op langs med halsen.

12.11.2020 - 00:19

Hej Birgitte, du tager ud på hver 2.pind. God fornøjelse!

18.11.2020 - 13:36

Weronika wrote:

Hi, can you please tell me, how much this jacket weight in total? I would like to knit it, but in one color :)

03.09.2020 - 13:05

Dear Weronika, we unfortunately cannot adapt every pattern to every single request and we do not have the jacket anymore - you can get help from another pattern in Air in your size - check measurement charts and/or calculate all colours together to compare with. Your DROPS store might be able to help you, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

03.09.2020 - 13:58

Anna Maria Vitulano wrote:

Buongiorno, nel modello 202/2 lateralmente, risulterà una striscia di 8 maglie legaccio? Così si evince dalle spiegazioni, ma non si vede dalla foto

22.02.2020 - 06:34

Buongiorno Anna Maria. Sì, una volta cuciti il davanti e il dietro, avrà una striscia di 8 maglie legaccio. Buon lavoro!

23.02.2020 - 08:24

Femke wrote:

Ik snap het eigenlijk helemaal niet,is er geen video waar je dit kledingstuk in maakt met uitleg en traag voorgedaan? Dit zou erg handig zijn

14.07.2019 - 23:23

Dag Femke,

Er zijn niet per kledingstuk video's, maar wel voor heel veel technieken die in de verschillende kledingstukken gebruikt worden. Aan de linkerkant van het patroon vind je een link naar video's die van toepassing zijn op dit patroon.

15.07.2019 - 13:54

Gro Bjeren wrote:

Hei! Ang. overvidde. f.eks 124 cm. er det på kropp eller jakken ferdig strikket? Er man 124 cm så er det vanligvis for lite å strikke S. Tenker heller XL, men det er kanskje annerledes i denne oppskriften?

07.06.2019 - 14:39

Hei Gro. Målene på målskissen referer til det ferdigstrikkede plagget. God fornøyelse

07.06.2019 - 14:56

Helene wrote:

I opskriften er der ingen udtagninger på ærmet udover de masker der tages ud efter ribkanten - er det en fejl i opskriften?

24.04.2019 - 07:57

Hei Helene. Denne genseren har posete ermer, så det stemmer at de er like vide hele veien. Dette kan du også se ermene og ermhullsåpningen på målskissen. God fornøyelse

26.04.2019 - 14:13

Color Clash

Knitted jacket with stripes in 2 strands DROPS Air. Piece is knitted bottom up with V-neck and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 202-2

Comments / Questions (16)

Color Clash

Knitted jacket with stripes in 2 strands DROPS Air. Piece is knitted bottom up with V-neck and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order