DROPS / 197 / 18

Hint of Heather by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, garter stitch and mosaic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted bottom up in garter stitch, mosaic pattern and opening for ponytail.

DROPS design: Pattern no-022
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Fits head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 03, pearl grey
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 13, old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

YARN FOR JACKET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 03, pearl grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 13, old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 03, pearl grey
50-50-50 g colour 13, old pink
50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JACKET:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows vertically in garter stitch and mosaic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 80 cm for the garment in garter stitch and mosaic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS METAL BUTTON, Loop (silver), NO 529: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows vertically in garter stitch and mosaic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: length of 60 cm or 80 cm for the garment in garter stitch and mosaic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm – length of 60 cm og 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of ridges hold the piece up when doing length measurements to avoid that the piece is too long when worn.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
All increases are done from the right side.
To calculate how to increase evenly on needle, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 113 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 30 stitches) = 3.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn overs twisted to avoid hole. Do not increase over bands.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) knit yarn overs twisted to avoid hole.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease after 1 edge stitch as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before 1 edge stitch as follows: Begin 2 stitches before edge stitch, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
All decreases are done from the right side!
To calculate how to decrease evenly on needle, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 110 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12 stitches) = 9.
In this example decrease by knitting every 8th and 9th stitch together. Do not decrease over edge stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 8-8-8½-8-8-8½ cm apart.

MOSAIC PATTERN JACKET:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 and read explanation for technique below. Choose diagram for your size.
Every row in diagram equals 2 rows. I.e. from right side work diagram from right to left and from wrong side work same row from left to right.

On all rows from right side hold yarn behind piece (i.e. on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch.
On all rows from wrong side hold yarn in front of piece (i.e. towards you and still on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch. Make sure that the yarn is not too tight on wrong side of piece.

To maintain control over pattern insert a marker between every pattern repetition with A.1A/A.2A.

A.X/A.Y = help square - this square is not worked but shoes how pattern row is worked (read explanation further down).
A.1A/A.2A = 1 pattern repetition.
A.1B/A.2B = last stitch before band, this stitch makes the pattern begin and end the same way inside band in each side (stitches is worked)

On the rows in one colour in diagram work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches without slipping any stitches.

On pattern row in A.1 that has an empty square in A.X (colour A), knit all stitches with colour A in A.1A/A.1B and slip all stitches with colour C.

On every pattern row with an empty square or a square with star in A.Y (colour A or C), knit all stitches with colour A or C in A.2A/A.2B and slip all stitches with colour B.

On every pattern row that has a black square in A.Y (colour B), knit all stitches with colour B in A.2A/A.2B and slip all stitches with colour A or C.

MOSAIC PATTERN HAT:
See diagram A.3 and read explanation for technique below.
Every row in diagram equals 2 rows. I.e. from right side work diagram from right to left and from wrong side work same row from left to right.

On all rows from right side hold yarn behind piece (i.e. on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch.
On all rows from wrong side hold yarn in front of piece (i.e. towards you and still on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch. Make sure that the yarn is not too tight on wrong side of piece.

To maintain control over pattern insert a marker between every pattern repetition with A.3B.

A.3A = start stitch from right side and end stitch from wrong side (stitch should be worked).
A.3B = 1 pattern repetition.
A.3C = end stitch from right side and start stitch from wrong side (stitch should be worked).

On the rows in one colour in diagram work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches without slipping any stitches.

On first pattern row in A.3 that has an empty square in A.3A and A.3C (colour A – row marked with a star in A.3A), knit all stitches with colour A and slip all stitches with colour C.

On the other pattern rows with an empty square or a square with star in A.3A and A.3C (colour A or C), knit all stitches with colour A and slip all stitches with colour B.

On every pattern row that has a black square in A.3A and A.3C (colour B), knit all stitches with colour B and slip all stitches with colour A or C.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge, yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work in mosaic pattern on yoke. It is important to follow the diagrams. Work the entire pattern in garter stitch but do not work pattern in regular garter stitch stitches. The pattern is formed by slipping the stitches. Read the entire explanation for mosaic pattern before working! Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle in parts, top down and sewn together when finished.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 113-116-122-128-131-137 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with old pink. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 5 band stitches in garter stitch I.e. knit from wrong side), * purl 1, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (i.e. knit from wrong side).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 cm from cast-on edge – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first row (right side) increase 30-33-33-33-36-36 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 143-149-155-161-167-173 stitches. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work MOSAIC PATTERN - read explanation above, i.e. see square in A.X (square is only an explanation on row and should not be worked), work A.1A until 6 stitches remain on needle (= 22-23-24-25-26-27 repetitions of A.1A of 6 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this but remember that 1 row in diagram = 2 rows and that bands are worked in base colour in pattern stripe. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1A increase evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
On row marked with arrow-1 increase 48-48-48-54-54-60 stitches evenly = 191-197-203-215-221-233 stitches (there is now room for 30-31-32-34-35-37 repetitions of A.1A of 6 stitches).
On row marked with arrow-2 increase 36-42-48-54-60-60 stitches evenly = 227-239-251-269-281-293 stitches (there is now room for 36-38-40-43-45-47 repetitions of A.1A of 6 stitches).
When A.1 has been worked, work A.2 the same way, i.e. work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, see square in A.Y (square is only an explanation on row and should not be worked), work A.2A until 6 stitches remain on needle (= 36-38-40-43-45-47 repetitions of A.2A of 6 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.2A increase evenly as explained below.
On row marked with arrow-3 increase 42-42-48-48-48-48 stitches evenly = 269-281-299-317-329-341 stitches (there is now room for 43-45-48-51-53-55 repetitions of A.2A of 6 stitches).
On row marked with arrow-4 increase 30-42-48-42-42-48 stitches evenly = 299-323-347-359-371-389 stitches (there is now room for 48-52-56-58-60-63 repetitions of A.2A of 6 stitches).
On row marked with arrow-5 increase 24-32-40-42-42-48 stitches evenly = 323-355-387-401-413-437 stitches (there is now room for 78-86-94-65-67-71 repetitions of A.2A of 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches). Increases in size S, M and L are now done.
On row marked with arrow-6 (only applies to size XL, XXL and XXXL) increase 18-34-38 stitches evenly (there is room for 102-109-116 repetitions of A.2A of 4 stitches) = 419-447-475 stitches on needle in size XL, XXL and XXXL.
When A.2 has been worked, work in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge mid front – read MEASURING TIP, but adjust so that last row is worked from right side.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Knit 52-57-61-66-72-78 (= front piece), slip the next 63-69-77-83-85-87 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), knit 93-103-111-121-133-145 (= back piece), slip the next 63-69-77-83-85-87 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the last 52-57-61-66-72-78 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 213-233-253-273-301-329 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 56-61-66-71-78-85 stitches in from each side (= 101-111-121-131-145-159 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Work in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches (work first row from right side).
When piece measures 8 cm from division - remember MEASURING TIP, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 8 cm 3 times in total in each side = 225-245-265-285-313-341 stitches. Work until piece measures 32 cm from division in all sizes. Work 1 ridge while increasing 11-12-13-14-16-18 stitches evenly on first row – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 236-257-278-299-329-359 stitches, Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work an edge as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 5 band stitches in garter stitch I.e. knit from wrong side), * purl 1, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (i.e. knit from wrong side).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the edge measures 3 cm (jacket measures approx. 36 cm from division in all sizes). Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then loosely cast off by knitting from right side (you can use half a needle size larger when casting off to avoid a tight edge). Jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Begin from right side on circular needle size 3.5 mm with pearl grey, in the middle of the new stitches cast on on body under sleeve, pick up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches, knit over the 63-69-77-83-85-87 stitches from stitch holder and then pick up 1 stitch in each of the remaining 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches under sleeve = 71-77-87-93-97-101 stitches. Work in garter stitch back and forth from mid under sleeve. When piece measures 2 cm from division - remember MEASURING TIP, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 1 cm 0-0-3-7-9-13 times in total and then every 2 cm 3-2-15-12-11-7 times in total. Then decrease 8-12-0-0-0-0 times in total every 4-2½-0-0-0-0 cm = 49-49-51-55-57-61 stitches remain on needle. Continue until piece measures 39-38-36-34-33-31 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Work 1 ridge while decreasing 1-1-0-1-0-1 stitch on first row = 48-48-51-54-57-60 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work edge as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row, purl 1 and finish with knit 1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the edge measures 3 cm (sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-37-36-34 cm from division). Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then loosely cast off by knitting (you can use half a needle size larger when casting off to avoid a tight edge). Sleeve measures approx. 43-42-40-38-37-35 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams from division under sleeve and outwards, sew in outer loop of edge stitch so that the seam is flat.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. First work and edge at the bottom. Then work in mosaic pattern. It is important to follow the diagrams. Work the entire colour pattern in garter stitch but do not work pattern in regular garter stitch stitches. The colour pattern is formed by slipping the stitches as explained above. Read the entire explanation for mosaic pattern before working! Finish by working an edge at the top of hat before sewing the piece together mid back. Hat is open at the top to make room for a ponytail.

HAT:
Cast on 110-116-122 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with old pink. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1 (= edge stitch), * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains on needle and finish with knit 1 (= edge stitch).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures 2-2-3 cm from cast-on edge.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work MOSAIC PATTERN HAT - see explanation above. I.e. work A.3A over first stitch, repeat A.3B until 1 stitch remains on needle (= 18-19-20 repetitions of 6 stitches), finish with A.3C over last stitch. Continue pattern like this but remember that 1 row in diagram = 2 rows. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.3B decrease evenly as explained below - read DECREASE TIP.
On row marked with arrow-1 decrease 12-10-12 stitches evenly = 98-106-110 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27 repetitions of 4 stitches).
On row with arrow-2 decrease 24-26-24 stitches evenly = 74-80-86 stitches on needle.
A.3 is now done. Continue back and forth over all stitches with pearl grey until piece measures 15-16-17 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains on row, purl 1 and finish with knit 1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the same number of rows has been worked as at the bottom edge on hat, i.e. approx 2-2-3 cm.
then work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME decrease 24-26-28 stitches evenly on first row = 50-54-58 stitches. Loosely cast off with knit from right side. Piece measures approx. 18-19-21 cm from top and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew hat together mid back inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.

Diagram

= Colour A - off white
= Colour B - old pink
= Colour C, pearl grey
= First time colour A is shown in A.3, knit colour A (in A.3A, A.3B and A.3C) and slip colour C (in A.3B)
= increase row





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Cathy 02.01.2020 - 14:47:

Bonjour, Peut on tricoter le tricot mosaïque sur des aiguilles droite ? Bien à vous

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 16:15:

Bonjour Cathy, tout à fait, il sera toutefois plus facile d'utiliser une aiguille circulaire car les mailles seront moins serrées. Bon tricot!

Hourdebaigt 11.08.2019 - 17:54:

Bonjour. Peut on tricoter des poches invisibles sur un top down? Quelle serait la technique? Merci

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 08:31:

Bonjour Mme Houdebaigt, cette vidéo montre comment faire une poche dans un modèle top down, sur la base d'un modèle différent. Il vous faudra probablement faire quelques ajustements en fonction du modèle tricoté. Bon tricot!

Lucie Hardy 05.12.2018 - 15:44:

Comment faire suivre la 2e laine sur le rang envers du motif jaquard au point mousse ?

DROPS Design 05.12.2018 kl. 15:54:

Bonjour Mme Hardy, on tricote toujours 1 couleur par rang, et donc la même couleur au rang sur l'envers qu'au rang sur l'endroit (pas comme du jacquard) - les autres mailles sont seulement glissées. Vous pouvez trouver ici la vidéo de cette technique. Bon tricot!

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