DROPS / 197 / 29

Purple Way by DROPS Design

Knitted hat in DROPS Alpaca with mosaic pattern and garter stitch. Knitted shawl in DROPS Alpaca with mosaic pattern, garter stitch and stripes.

DROPS design: Pattern z-837
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size (on hat): S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g colour 3800, old pink
50 g colour 2020, light camel
50 g colour no 3770, dark pink
50 g colour 100, off white

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 3800, old pink
50-50 g colour 100, off white

YARN FOR SHAWL:
Measurements: Length at the top: approx. 138 cm, length in the middle: approx. 26 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 2020, light camel
50 g colour no 3770, dark pink
50 g colour 3800, old pink
50 g colour 100, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for edge in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

SHAWL:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 60 or 80 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
Shawl: See diagrams A.3 to A.6.

MOSAIC PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 for hat and A.3 to A.6 for shawl and read explanation for technique below.
On all rows from right side hold yarn behind piece (i.e. on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch.
On all rows from wrong side hold yarn in front of piece (i.e. towards you and still on wrong side of piece) when slipping a stitch.
Make sure that the yarn is not too tight on wrong side of piece!
To maintain control over pattern insert a marker between every pattern repetition.
Work pattern in garter stitch.
A.1/A.3 show which colour to use on row.
On every pattern row that begins and ends with a black square in A.1/A.3 (colour B), knit all stitches with colour B and slip all stitches with colour A.
On every pattern row that begins and ends with a empty square in A.1/A.3 (colour A), knit all stitches with colour A and slip all stitches with colour B.

DECREASE TIP (applies to hat):
All decreases are done from the right side!
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 122 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 10. In this example knit approx. every 9th and 10th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.

HAT:
Cast on 112-122 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with old pink. Work 4 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work pattern - read MOSAIC PATTERN, as follows:
Work A.1 (= 1 stitch), work A.2 (= 11-12 stitches) over the next 110-120 stitches (= 10-10 times in width) and A.1 over last stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue pattern until piece measures 17-18 cm. Then work piece in garter stitch with old pink. Then decrease as follows:
Decrease 11-12 stitches evenly every 4th row - read DECREASE TIP, 9 times in total = 13-14 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 25-26 cm. Sew hat together inside 1 edge stitch with old pink.

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth on circular needle, diagonally from corner to corner in sections with garter stitch, stripes and mosaic pattern.

SHAWL:
Cast on 3 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light camel. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.

SECTION-1 (garter stitch in light camel):
ROW 1 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit until 1 stitch remains on needle, work 2 stitches in last stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 2, knit loop before next stitch on left needle twisted (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until there are 63 stitches on needle (= 61 ridges in total). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Piece measures approx. 56 cm measured along first stitch from right side.

SECTION-2 (stripes):
Continue to increase and decrease as before but now work stripes as follows:
Cut the yarn where there is more than 2 ridges before same colour is used again.
Work * 1 ridge in dark pink, 2 ridges with light camel *, work from *-* 3 times in total (= 9 ridges) = 72 stitches on needle.
Then work stripes as follows:
* Work 1 ridge with dark pink, 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridge with dark pink, 1 ridge with old pink, 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridges with old pink, 2 ridges with light camel *, work from *-* 2 times in total (= 20 ridges) = 92 stitches on needle.
Piece measures approx. 88 cm measured along first stitch from right side.

SECTION-3 (mosaic pattern with dark pink and light camel):
Continue to increase and decrease as before but now work pattern as follows:
Work 1 ridge with dark pink = 93 stitches. Then work MOSAIC PATTERN - read explanation above, with dark pink and light camel as follows:
Work A.3 (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 18 stitches), work A.5 (= 12 stitches) over the next 72 stitches (= 6 times in width), A.6 (= 1 stitch) and A.3 over last stitch (this is the stitch to work 2 stitches in from right side. From wrong side work first stitch as A.3 and work 2nd stitch in pattern A.6). Loop to be picked up between 2 stitches on every row from wrong side are worked in A.6.
When A.3 to A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically (= 12 ridges), there are 105 stitches on row. Piece measures approx. 100 cm measured along first stitch from right side.

SECTION-4 (stripes):
Continue to increase and decrease as before but now work stripes as follows:
Work 1 ridge with dark pink, 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridge with dark pink, 1 ridge with old pink, 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridges with old pink, 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridge with old pink (= 11 ridges) = 116 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 110 cm measured along first stitch from right side.

SECTION-5 (mosaic pattern with old pink and off white):
Continue to increase and decrease as before but now work pattern as follows:
Work 1 ridge with old pink = 117 stitches.
Then work mosaic pattern with old pink and off white as follows:
Work A.3 over first stitch, A.4 over the next 18 stitches, work A.5 over the next 96 stitches (= 8 times in width), A.6 over 1 stitch and A.1 over last stitch (it is this stitch 2 stitches are worked in from right side. From wrong side work first stitch as A.3 and work 2nd stitch in pattern A.6). Loop to be picked up between 2 stitches on every row from wrong side are worked in A.6.
When A.3 to A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat pattern vertically, every time the pattern is repeated work 1 repetition more of A.5 in width.
When A.3 to A.6 have been worked 2 times vertically (= 48 ridges), there are 165 stitches on row. Piece measures approx. 135 cm measured along first stitch from right side (approx. 3 cm remain). If you want a larger shawl repeat A.3 and A.6 vertically until desired measurements.

SECTION-6 (stripes):
Continue to increase and decrease as before but now work stripes as follows:
Work 2 ridges with light camel, 1 ridge with dark pink, 1 ridge with old pink and then cast off with old pink. Make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, cast off with 1 needle size larger if needed.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 28.11.2018
Correction: Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work pattern - read MOSAIC PATTERN, as follows:
Work A.1 (= 1 stitch), work A.2 (= 11-12 stitches) over the next 110-120 stitches (= 10-10 times in width) and A.1 over last stitch.

Diagram

= Colour A - off white/light camel
= Colour B - old pink/dark pink

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Els 09.11.2019 - 10:29:

In deel 5 staat dat je bij 2 herhalingen van A3-A6 48 steken erbij hebt. Dat klopt niet. Het zijn 48 naalden dus 24 ribbels en dus 24 steken erbij. Dat is 141 steken ( ipv 165). Groet Els

Margherita 07.11.2019 - 20:10:

Salve, ho realizzato questo scialle, seguendo attentamente le istruzioni e assicurandomi che il numero delle maglie fosse sempre corretto. Però ho ottenuto un triangolo non simmetrico, cioè con la punta molto spostata verso una delle due punte. Avete un idea di che cosa posso aver sbagliato? Potrebbe essere l'aver usato sempre i ferri della stessa misura, visto che la parte a mosaico tende a ``tirare`` di più il lavoro? Vi ringrazio anticipatamente!

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 08:30:

Buongiorno Margherita. Potrebbe dipendere un po' dalla tensione verticale. Gli scialli costruiti in questo modo possono risultare leggermente asimmetrici. Buon lavoro!

Mette 04.11.2019 - 12:21:

Hej. Jeg kan ikke finde ud af at få lukket mit halstørklæde. Synes ikke lukningerne ligner alt det andet, og synes det bliver grimt. Kan i hjælpe?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:34:

Hej Mette, er det de sidste masker, når du er færdig med sjalet som ikke bliver fine? Se forskellige måder her og vælg den du synes bedst om: luk af

Mc 09.09.2019 - 18:44:

Bonsoir, J'espère que vous nous proposerez bientôt des pulls à réaliser avec le point mosaïque. Il a cet avantage sur le jacquard, de ne pas doubler de fil, et de donner un tricot plus fin. Très agréable à tricoter lorsqu'on le maîtrise. Merci

Jennie Lee 29.07.2019 - 18:14:

Please advise. I posted a question on the 15. 7 .19. and I would dearly like to get on with the project but I am a perfectionist and like to get things correct. Please could you reply urgently as I want to finish the project. I think that it is a typo in the pattern but please can you take a look and let me know. I am not out to score points or find fault, I genuinely want to resolve the problem. Thank you

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 18:07:

Dear Jennie, see the answer below: you'll have to work diagrams twice and increase 48 sts. Happy knitting!

Mc 25.07.2019 - 14:54:

Bjr,je suis en train de tricoter le point mosaïque, j'entame le rang 10 et je vois que le rang ne démarre pas par un carreau blanc, mais par un carreau noir (couleur rose). Le rang 9 commençait par un carreau blanc (rang endroit en chameau) Faut il couper le fil pour entamer ce rang envers et si oui faut il tricoter en rose les cases noires et passer les cases blanches sans les tricoter ?

Mc 26.07.2019 kl. 14:05:

J'avais oublié que le rang commence par A3 Merci pour votre aide et votre patience

Mc 23.07.2019 - 16:10:

Le point qui forme A3 est le point que l'on glisse à l'envers (comme au premier rang) ?

DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 19:39:

Bonjour! A.1/A.3 montre la couleur utilisée sur le rang. Pour tous les rangs qui commencent et se terminent par un carré noir dans A.1/A.3 (coloris B), tricoter à l'endroit toutes les mailles avec le coloris B et glisser toutes les mailles du coloris A. Pour tous les rangs qui commencent et terminent par un carré blanc dans A.1/A.3 (coloris A), tricoter à l'endroit toutes les mailles avec le coloris A et glisser toutes les mailles en coloris B. Bon tricot!

Mc 22.07.2019 - 15:45:

Bonjour, Le point mosaïque démarre sur un rang "envers" ou "endroit" ?

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 16:18:

Bonjour! Il demarre sur le rang endroit. Bon tricot!

Jennie Lee 18.07.2019 - 16:20:

Good afternoon. I left a question on Monday 15th July and I have not received a response. Please could you find time to investigate as I would love to progress to the next section with certainty. Many thanks.Jennie

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 18:07:

Dear Jennie, see the answer below: you'll have to work diagrams twice and increase 48 sts. Happy knitting!

Jennie Lee 15.07.2019 - 14:36:

Please re look at your reply to my enquiry. In your own words you say that every 2 rows you increase 1 stitch, BUT you state that over 24 rows you increase 24 stitches, you are openly contradicting yourself, WHAT ABOUT THE DECREASE ELEMENT to keep the shaping? You state 1 increase every 2 rows but you are also saying 24 rows 24 increases. PLEASE decide which it should be and then amend the pattern. It is SO SO frustrating. Many thanks

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 18:06:

Dear Jennie, every time you work the diagrams, you'll increase 24 sts. So, the first time you'll obtain 141 sts, and after the second repetition you'll obtain 165 stitches. Happy knitting!

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