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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 195
  6. 31

Fritid by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with false Enlgish rib and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: a-shape, assembly free, english rib, jumper, long sleeves, rib-shifting, round neck, round yoke, top down

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DROPS 195-31
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-126
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 03, pearl grey

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 32 rows in height (seen from the wrong side) with false English rib = 10 x 10 cm.
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
The yarn overs in the pattern are not counted as stitches.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 82 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 11.7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked in the round with circular needle, top down in false English rib. Then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round in stocking stitch with a false English rib edge. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles in stocking stitch and with a false English rib edge.

YOKE:
Cast on 66-72-78-82-85-91 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and Air.
Knit 2-2-2-4-4-4 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME on round 3 increase 0-0-0-6-11-13 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 66-72-78-88-96-104 stitches.
Work A.1a ( 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches) a total of 11-12-13-11-12-13 times in width.
Continue this pattern.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Be careful, when increasing in the diagram, that the stitch you increase in is not tightened more than absolutely necessary; there will be a small hole in this stitch. When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height there are 154-168-182-176-192-208 stitches on the needle. Now work A.1b over A.1a. When A.1b has been completed in height there are 198-216-234-264-288-312 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 20-20-20-24-24-24 cm from the cast-on edge. Repeat the last 2 rounds in A.1b until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge; adjust so that you finish with a round without yarn overs.
Knit all stitches and increase 14-20-30-16-12-16 stitches evenly on round = 212-236-264-280-300-328 stitches. On the next round divide for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 31-34-38-41-45-50 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches under the sleeve, knit 62-68-76-82-90-100 stitches (= front piece), place the next 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches under the sleeve. Finish with knit 31-34-38-41-45-50 stitches (= half back piece) = 140-152-168-184-200-220 stitches.
The yoke measures approx. 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches in each side of the piece (= 70-76-84-92-100-110 stitches on both front and back pieces). Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 3-3-4-4-3-3 cm a total of 7-7-6-6-7-7 times = 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. When the piece measures 25-25-26-26-26-26 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves work an edge as follows:
On the next round increase 10 stitches evenly on round = 178-190-202-218-238-258 stitches. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked for approx. 6 cm cast off with knit. The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3 cm from where it was divided from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 7-9-11-13-13-14 times = 38-40-42-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 35-34-34-33-32-32 cm from where it was divided from the body, work A.2 over all stitches. Cast off with knit when A.2 has been worked 1 time in height. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.09.2018
Correction: worked in false fisherman's rib (previously half fisherman's rib

Diagram

symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
symbols = knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together
symbols = = work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and stitch together, but wait to slip the yarn over and the stich of left needle, * make 1 yarn over on the right needle and knit the stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* a total of 2 times before slipping the stitches of the left needle = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Angela wrote:

Hallo! kann man den pullover trotzdem im halbpatent muster stricken? oder schaut der dann total anders aus? ich kenn mich leider nicht so gut aus und wüsste jetzt nicht wie ich das im falschen patent stricken soll. mfg

22.12.2021 - 11:58

country flag Kristy G wrote:

I found A.2. Sorry, must need new glasses :)

05.05.2021 - 21:00

country flag Kristy G wrote:

In the pattern it says: PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The yarn overs in the pattern are not counted as stitches. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked for approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8'' bind off with knit. But there is NO diagram for A.2 included in this pattern.

05.05.2021 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kristy, the small chart for diagram A.2 is just above the shematic drawing between the two different sized A.1a charts. Happy Knitting!

05.05.2021 kl. 21:18

country flag Kristy G wrote:

I cannot find the instructions for A.2 in this pattern.

03.05.2021 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kristy, explanations for the diagrams are just above the charts, symbols meaning the same in all charts. Happy Knitting!

03.05.2021 kl. 23:31

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Eine Frage zur Länge der Ärmel: kann es sein, dass der Ärmel in Größe S länger ist als bei den großen Größen? Es heißt, "bei einer Länge des Ärmels von 35 cm ab der Teilung...." in Gr. S. Das verstehe ich nicht. Besten Dank für eine Rückmeldung.

24.01.2021 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, ja genau so stimmt es, bei den größren Größen ist die Passe länger, deshalb werden die Ärmel dann kürzer sein- schauen Sie mal die Maßen in die Skizze - länge können Sie auch gerne anpassen (Pullover anziehen, um die Länge zu prüfen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 kl. 09:52

country flag Hanne Hedeman wrote:

Jeg vil gerne lære,hvordan jeg finder ud af ,at fordele masker til bluse foroven ,f.eks halskant hvordan inddeler jeg hals ,for arme,ryg,arme eks Raglan ,har du 1 forslag til.bluse.sa.jeg.ksn se måskeantallet.fordelt jeg kan ikke.finde.ud af fordelingen af.makerne.mvh Hanne hedeman.

10.04.2020 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, Fordelingen beskriver vi altid tydeligt i opskriften. Her ser du en generel video hvordan man gør

How to knit a jumper top down from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

24.04.2020 kl. 09:44

country flag Pia wrote:

Salve, ho finito il lavoro e mi è molto piaciuto. Tuttavia come tutti i modelli topdown lo scolo è uguale davanti e dietro. Dunque è troppo scollato dietro. Finito il lavoro è possibile creare una alzatina dietro? E come?

31.03.2020 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Pia. Potrebbe provare a riprendere le maglie intorno al collo e lavorare qualche giro a legaccio, con ferri accorciati sul dietro. Può contattare il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per ulteriore assistenza personalizzata. Buon lavoro!

01.04.2020 kl. 09:37

country flag Anneke wrote:

Klopt het stekenaantal wel na de eerste keer meerderen in de pas, na A 1a? Er staat 154-168-182-176-192-208. Volgens mij zijn het derde en vierde getal omgedraaid.

20.03.2020 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Het aantal opgegeven steken heb ik nagerekend en ze zijn juist. Let erop dat je het juiste telpatroon neemt voor jouw maat. Wanneer je A.1b boven A.1a hebt gebreid heb je wel weer meer steken in XL dan in L.

29.03.2020 kl. 12:55

country flag Vita Catania wrote:

Dove trovo aggiungi ai preferiti? Grazie

03.01.2020 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Vita, per aggiungere il modello ai preferiti deve cliccare sul cuore che trova dopo la prima parte delle spiegazioni, e inserire la propria mail. Buon lavoro!

04.01.2020 kl. 10:47

country flag Léa K wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse.\r\nJ’ai finalement recommencé le tricot en faisant pour les fausses côtes anglaises : *maille envers - maille glissée envers - jeté*  (au lieu de maille envers - jeté - maille glissée envers) et ça semble fonctionner !

09.12.2019 - 09:58

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