74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!


Mint Tulip

Knitted skirt in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 196-38
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-009
Yarn group B

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 07, light sea green


21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 60 cm for lining and edge.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

ACCESSORIES: Approx. 70-120 cm trouser elastic. 



Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.


RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 144 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 12. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.




The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. First a lining is worked, which is later used to thread the elastic through. You then continue with lace pattern and garter stitch.

Cast on 144-156-168-180-204-228 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. Then work 4 rounds stocking stitch. Purl 1 round (= folding edge). Insert 1 marker in the piece. THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!

Work 2 ridges. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work A.1 (= 12 stitches) a total of 12-13-14-15-17-19 times in the round. On rounds 11 and 41, the round is displaced by 1 stitch so that the lace pattern fits.
On the round marked with an arrow, increase as follows:
INCREASE 1: Increase 12-12-12-24-24-24 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 156-168-180-204-228-252 stitches. A.1 is then repeated 13-14-15-17-19-21 times in width.
INCREASE 2: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches evenly on round = 168-192-204-228-252-276 stitches. A.1 is then repeated 14-16-17-19-21-23 times in width.
INCREASE 3: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches evenly on round = 180-204-228-252-276-300 stitches. A.1 is then repeated 15-17-19-21-23-25 times in width
INCREASE 4: Increase 12-12-12-12-12-24 stitches evenly on round = 192-216-240-264-288-324 stitches. A.1 is then repeated 16-18-20-22-24-27 times in width.
Repeat A.1 in height and increase evenly 12 stitches on each round with an arrow 2-1-2-1-1-1 times more = 216-228-264-276-300-336 stitches. A.1 is then repeated 18-19-22-23-25-28 times in width. Continue with pattern until the piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm from the marker; adjust so that you finish neatly in relation to the pattern. Work 2 ridges. Then cast off with knit. The skirt measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from the marker.

Fold the lining towards the wrong side and sew down neatly, but leave a small opening to thread the elastic through. 


symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
symbols = increase round - read description in the text
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to the next symbol in the diagram
symbols = on this round the last stitch from previous round is worked as the first stitch on this round (= the round is displaced with 1 stitch), displace the round back again by knitting first stitch on the round 1 more time at the end of round

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 196-38

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (55)

country flag Florence wrote:

Je suis désolée, je ne suis pas sûre d'avoir vraiment compris... J'arrive à la fin du tour 11 en tricotant ensemble les deux dernières mailles du motif du tour 10 (1 maille et 1 jeté). Cela me donne ma 11eme maille du dernier motif du tour 11. Dois-je simplement tricoter deux fois la prochaine maille qui est la première maille du tour en cours (soit le tour 11) pour revenir sur mes pattes? Faut-il bien décaler une seconde fois? Merci d'avance

01.03.2023 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, le 11ème tour commence par la dernière maille du tour 10: faites 1 jeté (= dernière maille du tour désormais), tricotez la dernière m et la 1ème m du tour ensemble (diminution), puis continuez le diagramme jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m, faites 1 jeté (dernière m du motif), et tricotez cette dernière maille avec la 1ère m du A.1 suivant et continuez ainsi tout le tour. À la fin du tour, tricotez le jeté à l'endroit (c'est la dernière m du tour), et le tour commence après ce jeté = comme avant. Bon tricot!

02.03.2023 - 10:38

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour, Il y a un mot manquant au niveau de la légende du diagramme sur l'explication de l'étoile : "décaler le tour de nouveau en tricotant a l'endroit la ...........(?) Encore une fois a la fin du tour." Je suis désolée je ne sais pas remplir ce blanc... Merci d'avance pour l'éclaircissement.

01.03.2023 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, oups, il s'agit de la maille que l'on doit tricoter à la fin du tour (on commence le tour 1 m avant la fin du tour, puis la dernière maille de chaque motif se tricote avec les 2 premières mailles du motif suivant; après ce tour, les tours commencent de nouveau comme avant (après le jeté). Bon tricot!

01.03.2023 - 17:18

country flag Heidi wrote:

Hej, når jeg skal gentage diagrammet a1 og skal tage ud fra 192 masker til 216 masker - skal jeg så lave en ny udregning? For kan ikke få det til at passe med at slå om efter hver 12. Maske (fra 192 til 204)??

24.12.2022 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Det skal ikke økes etter hver 12. maske, men jevnt fordelt. I str. S har du 192 masker etter 4. økning, deretter skal du repetere A.1 i høyden og øke 12 masker jevnt fordelt på hver omgang med økepil 2 ganger. Da blir det 192 + 12 = 204 ved 1.økepil og 204 + 12= 216 masker ved 2. økepil. mvh DROPS Design

02.01.2023 - 10:31

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Het rokje krult onderaan om. Waar kan dat door komen en wat zou ik eraan kunnen doen? Ik heb het gebreid met Drops Sky, naald nr 4, heb het telpatroon 1x herhaald + 3 toeren recht en twee ribbels en toen recht afgekant, precies zoals in de beschrijving.

30.09.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth,

Dat komt omdat er geen boord aan de onderkant zit. Je zou het heel voorzichtig kunnen opperssen met het strijkijzer. Je legt dan een natte theedoek over de rand en dept heel voorzichtig met het strijkijzer op de theedoek (waar de rok dus weer onder zit). Let er op dat je dit echt heel erg voorzichtig doet, anders kun je de structuur van het breiwerk vernielen.

01.10.2022 - 17:48

country flag Karine Moyne wrote:

Bonjour Combien de pelotes il faut pour faire la jupe en taille S Merci de votre réponse Cordialment

01.04.2022 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Moyne, vous trouverez les quantités indiquées, au poids, sous l'en-tête, autrement dit, il faudra ici en taille S 150 g DROPS Sky/50 g la pelote = 3 pelotes. Pensez à vérifier votre échantillon. Bon tricot!

01.04.2022 - 13:14

country flag Stina Krumpholz wrote:

Hallo liebes garnstudio Team, ich habe den Rock nun fertig gestrickt und er ist toll geworden. Ich habe nun jedoch ein Problem mit dem Tunnel für das gummi. Mit welchem Stich soll man die Blende annähen? Ich habe Angst, dass ein normaler Rückstich nicht elastisch genug ist und dann der Rock nicht mehr passt? Generell wäre ein Video dazu auch total hilfreich. Vielen Dank für die tollen Anleitungen Mfg stina krumpholz

10.02.2022 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Krumpholz, dieses Video zeigt, wie man so einen Tunnel annäht, beachten Sie nur, daß der Faden die Arbeit nicht zusammen zieht, so daß der Rand immer noch elastisch bleibt. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

10.02.2022 - 16:12

country flag Captain Bumblebee wrote:

Hello! When sewing down the lining, where should the cast on edge line up with the front? The lining has 6 rounds (1 ridge and 4 rounds stockinette) on 3.5 mm needles before the turning round, then the front has 4 rounds (2 ridges) on 3.5 mm needles after the turning round, followed by starting A.1 on 4.0 mm needles (1st 3 rounds are all knit). Thanks so much!

06.01.2022 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Captain Bumblebee, the lining is the folding edge to later introduce a thread of elastic. This is folded on the purl row after 4 rounds in stocking stitch. There is no side seam. Happy knitting!

10.01.2022 - 20:39

country flag Daria wrote:

Hallo, wie wird denn die allererste Masche in der 11. und 41. Runde gestrickt? Beginnt man mit dem Umschlag? Mir ist das Verschieben des Musters noch nicht klar. Da ist ja noch keine Zunahme erfolgt, wie muss das Muster dann aufgehen? Und beim 2. Durchgang des Musters fehlt bei den Größen, wo 2x steht, eine weitere Maschenanzahl, richtig? Also bei S wird mit 18 und dann noch mit 20 M gearbeitet, oder?

07.12.2021 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Daria, bei der 11. und 41. Runde beginnt der Runde 1 Masche davor, dh die 10. /40. Runde stricken bis 1 Masche übrig ist, hier beginnt der 11./41. Runde: der Umschlag ist jetzt die letzte Masche der Runde und die Abnahmen (= letze Masche + die erste Masche der Runde) die 1. Masche, stricken Sie über 12 M wie zuvor, die letzte Masche A.1 wird mit der 1. Masche von dem nächsten Rapport gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.12.2021 - 07:53

country flag Liv wrote:

Veldig uklart svar på mitt spørsmål. Jeg spurte om hva som er første maske i omgang 12, første kastet eller de to maskene som ble slått sammen til en maske i begynnelsen av omg 11. Et ganske enkelt spørsmål som ga meg et forvirrende svar.

12.07.2021 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Liv, de to som blev til en! Prøvede bare at forklare det, så du selv kan se det ;)

13.07.2021 - 15:05

country flag Liv wrote:

I omgangen hvor det forskyes 1 maske starter man med et kast og så felling av en maske, ved neste omgang skal da kastet være første maske eller er det den felte masken som er er første maske

05.07.2021 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Liv, på næste mønster omgang sørger du for at de 3 masker mellem omslagene strikkes sammen til en (og så med et omslag på hver side af denne maske). God fornøjelse!

12.07.2021 - 15:14