DROPS / 189 / 29

On Point by DROPS Design

Crocheted slipper with stripes. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

Tags: slippers, stripes,
  • On Point / DROPS 189-29 - Crocheted slipper with stripes. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.
  • On Point / DROPS 189-29 - Crocheted slipper with stripes. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.
DROPS design: Pattern w-700
Yarn group C or A + A
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50-50 g color 48, petrol
50-50-50 g color 16, white
50-50-50 g color 07, heather
50-50-50 g color 06, shocking pink
50-50-50 g color 41, mustard
50-50-50 g color 43, green
50-50-50 g color 01, apricot

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 double crochets = width 10 cm / 4''.

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochet together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in next single crochet but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet in next single crochet the same way, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Replace first double crochet on every round/row with double crochets with 3 chain stitches and finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch.
Replace first single crochet on every round/row with single crochets with 1 chain stitches and finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.

2 round/rows with single crochets,
1 round/row with double crochets.
Repeat these 3 rounds/rows.

Work 3 rounds/rows (= 2 rounds/rows with single crochets and 1 round/row with double crochets) of each color.
Work stripes as follows:
* heather, apricot, shocking pink, mustard, green, petrol *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

Work from toe towards heel.

Work 5 chain stitches with petrol on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Work 12 double crochets around chain stitch ring – beginning of round = mid under foot.
ROUND 2: Switch to white. Work * 1 double crochet in first double crochet, 2 double crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Switch to petrol. Work * 1 double crochet in the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Switch to white. Work * 1 single crochet in each of the first 3 double crochets, 2 single crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 single crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 single crochet in every single crochet but increase 4-6-10 single crochets evenly = 34-36-40 single crochets.
ROUND 6: Switch to petrol. Work 1 double crochet in every single crochet.

Continue with PATTERN and STRIPES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 10-11-13 cm, finish after 2 rounds with single crochet, cut the yarn. Insert 1 marker between the 2 middle stitches on round, i.e. after 17-18-20 single crochets. Work piece with toe towards you and count 4 stitches to the left of marker, begin working here from right side with double crochets. Work until 6 single crochets remain in total on round (i.e. 3 stitches on each side of marker mid on top of foot), turn = 28-30-34 double crochets. Continue pattern as before – work 1 slip stitch in first double crochet, then single crochets until 1 double crochet remains on row, turn. Then work back and forth over the remaining 26-28-32 stitches until piece measures approx. 21-23-26 cm in total – adjust so that next row is a row worked with double crochets. Work next row as follows: 1 double crochet in each of the first 11-12-14 single crochets, then work the next 4 double crochets together 2 by 2 – READ DECREASE TIP, then work 1 double crochet in each of the last 11-12-14 single crochets. Fasten off. Fold the slipper double and sew tog edge to edge mid back.

Work an edge around the opening on slipper with mustard as follows:
1 single crochet in every single crochet mid on top of foot, 1 single crochet in transition between 2 color stripes, * 2 chain stitches, skip a color stripes, 1 single crochet in transition between the 2 next color stripes *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet.
Work 1 single crochet in every single crochet and 2 single crochet around every chain space. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet. Fasten off.

Work another slipper the same way.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 189-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Mina Sousa 16.06.2021 - 20:09:

No me queda clara la vuelta 5. No entienco cómo hay que repartir los puntos con aumentos, porque me queda un desastre de puntos amontonados.

user icon DROPS Design 27.06.2021 kl. 19:20:

Hola Mina, se trabaja 1 punto bajo en cada punto y al mismo tiempo se aumentan 4 - 6 - 10 puntos bajos (según la talla; 4 para 35-37...) a lo largo de la vuelta.

country flag Michaela Šiftová 30.03.2021 - 21:04:

Vaše papuče se mi moc líbí, zkoušela jsem je uháčkovat, ale podle návodu se mi to nedaří, bez obrázku jej nechápu. Uháčkuju skoro celou papuči, ale s patou si neporadím. Musela jsem udělat rovný šev, který sice moc dobře nevypadá, ale chodit se v tom dá. Mohli byste prosím natočit video s návodem, jak háčkovat patu nebo alespoň k návodům doplnit i fotografie paty nebo nakreslit střih? Děkuji

user icon DROPS Design 20.04.2021 kl. 09:59:

Hi Michaela, take a look at this video: How to crochet a basic slipper from toe and up

country flag Valborg Hillberg 16.06.2020 - 10:54:

Om jag vill virka i en färg hur mycket garn går det då?

user icon DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 13:32:

Hej Valborg. Det har vi dessvärre ingen uppgift på, men om jag ser på liknande mönster som är gjorda i bara en färg så ser det ut att gå åt ca 100-150 g. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Priyanka 01.06.2020 - 12:29:

Beautiful slippers and easy to make pattern. Tried the largest size and it fits perfect. Thank you

country flag Susan 17.11.2019 - 12:50:

Hi I'm a size 3, how could I make these smaller. Many thanks x

user icon DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 10:16:

Dear Susan, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

country flag Astrid Hediger 07.05.2019 - 15:22:

Bitte in deutscher Sprache Emails an mich. Auch nicht innerhalb 1 Min. mehrere gleiche Mails in div. Sprachen an mich. Besten Dank.

country flag Dominique L. 03.02.2019 - 23:43:

Je viens tout juste de terminer ces pantoufles, le patron est facile à suivre, bien expliqué et le résultat final est superbe. J’ai utilisé des balances de laines que j’avais et des couleurs très similaires. Les chaussons tiennent vraiment bien au pied , j’adore! Merci beaucoup!

country flag Karen 15.01.2019 - 13:50:

Not sure what you mean regarding yarn group C or A + A. And the 700. Sorry, I am new to crocheting and from the US. Please advise and thank you

user icon DROPS Design 15.01.2019 kl. 16:46:

Dear Karen, W-700 is the pattern name of this design as it was shown for the vote to the collection. Our yarns are dvidided into groups depending on their thickness and tension (read more here about the groups . The slippers are here worked with 1 strand yarn group C (= DROPS Paris), but you can use alternately 2 strands yarn group A - try our yarn converter to see alternatives. Happy crocheting!

country flag Susanne Van Schaik 22.08.2018 - 22:07:

Hallo, Ik ben nu deze aan het haken en ik heb een vraag. Nadat je de markering hebt aangebracht, waar moet je precies beginnen met haken? Is dat vanaf 4 steken tot de markering? Als er 6 vasten overblijven, is dat toch meer dan maar 3 steken aan beide kanten?

user icon DROPS Design 23.08.2018 kl. 17:47:

Hoi Susanne, Je telt 4 steken en begint dan met haken, je begint dus in die vierde steek met haken zodat er op het eind 3 steken aan elke kant van de markeerdraad zijn.

country flag Ana 04.05.2018 - 18:14:

Hi. How much yarn do I need if I want to make these in a single colour? Thanks.

user icon DROPS Design 06.05.2018 kl. 09:05:

Dear Ana, if I would want to make this from one color, I would get about 200-300 gramms of yarn (depending on the size). Happy Crafting!

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