Embrace of the Sun by DROPS Design
Dress with lace pattern round yoke and short sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Muskat.
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-719
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 07, light yellow
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for the moss stitch – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 07, light yellow
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for the moss stitch – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:
MOSS STITCH:
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Round 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
Repeat round 2.
INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 121 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 15) = 8.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch; on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.3).
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for the body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP-2 (for body):
Increase 1 stitch by picking up the stitch from the previous round and knitting the new stitch. When you increase after the first and third marker threads, pick up 1 stitch in the first stitch loop after the marker thread. When increasing before the second and fourth marker threads, pick up a stitch in the last loop before the marker thread.
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DRESS:
The yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeve edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 121-125-129-135-145-149 stitches with small circular needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work MOSS STITCH – see description above, for 2 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 15-19-23-17-15-19 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 136-144-152-152-160-168 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round. Then work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
Work A.1 in the round (= 17-18-19-19-20-21 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed, there are 204-216-228-228-240-252 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm from the cast on edge.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows (do this without working the stitches): The first marker is inserted after the first 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker after the next 62-64-68-72-78-86 stitches (= front piece) and the 4th marker is inserted after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve). There are 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches after the last marker for half the back piece.
Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 0-3-5-11-11-12 times and then every 4th round a total of 6-6-6-4-5-6 times. After the last increase to raglan there are 252-288-316-348-368-396 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 4-4-0-0-4-0 stitches evenly on round = 256-292-316-348-372-396 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (=in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 84-92-100-112-124-136 stitches (= in the sides of the dress). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches. Remove all markers and marker threads in the piece, except the marker thread at the beginning of piece.
When the piece measures 15 cm from the separation, insert 4 new marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted after the first 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches, 2nd marker thread after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches, 3rd marker thread after the next 30-36-42-52-62-72 stitches and the 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. There are 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread.
On the next round, increase after the first and third marker threads and before the second and fourth marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-5-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm a total of 7-6-8-8-8-8 times = 180-192-216-240-264-288 stitches.
When the piece measures 44-45-46-45-46-46 cm work A.2 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 12 stitches).
On each round with arrow in A.2 the beginning of the round is displaced 2 stitches towards the left, i.e. lift the 2 first stitches over to the right needle without working them, then work A.2 in the round. The 2 stitches that where lifted over to the right needle will be worked in the last repeat of A.2. On next round knit all stitches. Then start the round as normal. When A.2 is worked there is 240-256-288-320-352-384 stitches on the needle. Now work A.3 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 16 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, there are 315-336-378-380-418-456 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 14-15-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly on round = 329-351-395-399-439-479 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work moss stitch in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. The dress measures approx. 87-90-93-96-99-101 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-70-78-82-86-90 stitches. Knit 1 round and at the same time decrease 1 stitch on this round = 59-69-77-81-85-89 stitches. Work moss stitch in the round for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.
MOSS STITCH:
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Round 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
Repeat round 2.
INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 121 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 15) = 8.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch; on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.3).
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for the body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP-2 (for body):
Increase 1 stitch by picking up the stitch from the previous round and knitting the new stitch. When you increase after the first and third marker threads, pick up 1 stitch in the first stitch loop after the marker thread. When increasing before the second and fourth marker threads, pick up a stitch in the last loop before the marker thread.
----------------------------------------------------------
DRESS:
The yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeve edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 121-125-129-135-145-149 stitches with small circular needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work MOSS STITCH – see description above, for 2 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 15-19-23-17-15-19 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 136-144-152-152-160-168 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round. Then work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
Work A.1 in the round (= 17-18-19-19-20-21 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed, there are 204-216-228-228-240-252 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm from the cast on edge.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows (do this without working the stitches): The first marker is inserted after the first 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker after the next 62-64-68-72-78-86 stitches (= front piece) and the 4th marker is inserted after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve). There are 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches after the last marker for half the back piece.
Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 0-3-5-11-11-12 times and then every 4th round a total of 6-6-6-4-5-6 times. After the last increase to raglan there are 252-288-316-348-368-396 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 4-4-0-0-4-0 stitches evenly on round = 256-292-316-348-372-396 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (=in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 84-92-100-112-124-136 stitches (= in the sides of the dress). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches. Remove all markers and marker threads in the piece, except the marker thread at the beginning of piece.
When the piece measures 15 cm from the separation, insert 4 new marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted after the first 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches, 2nd marker thread after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches, 3rd marker thread after the next 30-36-42-52-62-72 stitches and the 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. There are 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread.
On the next round, increase after the first and third marker threads and before the second and fourth marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-5-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm a total of 7-6-8-8-8-8 times = 180-192-216-240-264-288 stitches.
When the piece measures 44-45-46-45-46-46 cm work A.2 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 12 stitches).
On each round with arrow in A.2 the beginning of the round is displaced 2 stitches towards the left, i.e. lift the 2 first stitches over to the right needle without working them, then work A.2 in the round. The 2 stitches that where lifted over to the right needle will be worked in the last repeat of A.2. On next round knit all stitches. Then start the round as normal. When A.2 is worked there is 240-256-288-320-352-384 stitches on the needle. Now work A.3 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 16 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, there are 315-336-378-380-418-456 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 14-15-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly on round = 329-351-395-399-439-479 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work moss stitch in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. The dress measures approx. 87-90-93-96-99-101 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-70-78-82-86-90 stitches. Knit 1 round and at the same time decrease 1 stitch on this round = 59-69-77-81-85-89 stitches. Work moss stitch in the round for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.
Diagram
|
= knit |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
|
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
|
= shift the start of the round 2 stitches to the left |
|
= shift the start of the round 2 stitches to the left, then start each round here |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 287 catalogues and 10635 patterns - 10635 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, J'ai une question concernant le passage entre l'Empiècement et le Dos/Devant : ou commence le début du tour pour le Dos/Devant. Pour l'empiècement, il était au milieu du dos, et si j'ai bien compris pour le dos/devant, le début du tour se situe à la moitié des mailles ajoutées (coté de la robe). est bien cela? Merci d'avance pour votre retour, Pierre Luc
18.08.2022 - 10:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Pierre Luc, tout à fait, l'empiècement et le dos/le devant se tricotent en commençant les tours à partir du milieu dos. Lorsque vous tricotez le bas de la robe, placez un marqueur au milieu des mailles montées sous les manches = côtés de la robe. On va diminuer de chaque côté de ces marqueurs. On place ensuite d'autres marqueurs (4) pour augmenter après/avant ces marqueurs pour le bas de la robe. Bon tricot!
18.08.2022 kl. 15:04Hallo, könntet Ihr einmal ein Kleid, gestrickt, mit Farbverlaufsgarn als Anleitung vorstellen, das würde mich sehr freuen. Danke für die schönen Modelle.
25.06.2022 - 15:50DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Barbara, hier finden Sie einige mit Delight - und hier mit Fabel. Hoffentlich können Ihnen diese Modellen inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.06.2022 kl. 09:16Hi! Die Anleitung und das Kleid sind toll, ich habe allerdings 250g Wolle übrig gehabt, ist nicht schlimm, ich mache etwas anderes daraus. Ich wollte bloß den Hinweis geben. VG BJ
03.06.2022 - 12:22Where do I see a dress size chart so I know what size to make that will fit me? I do not know which size to make that will fit me.
14.04.2022 - 18:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Robin, you can check the measurements chart after the pattern instructions and diagram, with all measurements in cm, to see which size will fit you best. Happy knitting!
14.04.2022 kl. 18:37Dobrý den, ráda bych se doptala na raglánové zkosení. Pletu velikost S - znamená to tedy, že přidávám pouze v 1. řadě a potom až v každé 4. řadě 6x ? A poté v další 1. řadě již nepřidávam? Děkuji, přeji hezký den :-)
09.04.2022 - 20:17DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Kateřino, pro raglánové zkosení přidáte u velikosti S v 1. kruhové řadě, a pak v každé 4. řadě 6x. Potom v následující kruh. řadě přidáte rovnoměrně 4 oka - tj. podle popisu v odstavci TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ 1. Ať se daří!
23.04.2022 kl. 08:35Hi there! I love this dress but it is a bit too short for my liking. Am I able to add a few extra inches to the body of the dress so it ends at my knees? Thank you, Meaghen
14.02.2022 - 22:53DROPS Design answered:
Hi Meaghan, Yes, this is no problem. Continue working to the desired length before starting the pattern at the bottom of the dress. Happy knitting!
15.02.2022 kl. 08:20Hi DROPS Team! First off, can I just say thank you so much for the amazing free patterns and all of the responses you folks give in these comment sections? You're an awesome company and I'm so grateful to be able to knit them! My question is: Instead of doing my incs with a YO that gets twisted on the next round, can I do a M1L and M1R on either side of the markers? I'm not a huge fan of YO incs unless I *need* the hole and I just think it would look cleaner. Would it pose a problem?
06.02.2022 - 04:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Lucas, thank you very much for your feedback! Feel free to use another technique to increase here if you are not ease with the yarn overs increases. Happy knitting!
07.02.2022 kl. 09:52I have followed your instructions, you left for Kim ,"Dear Kim, at the very beg of the round, move the first 2 sts onto right needles without working them, rounds now start here,.. " regarding the arrow A2 however I'm still struggling , cause on row 15 it seems that the pattern is not lining up. Does this mean the NEW beginning would be after I move the 2 stitch to the right needle. Is there a video to demonstrate this please, I'm so confuse, but I'm not giving up
17.09.2021 - 15:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Fuad, you have to displace the beg of the round only on the row with an arrow, this means, on row after (= row 15), beg the round as before to make sure the pattern will be lined up. Happy knitting!
20.09.2021 kl. 10:22Where can I find the gauge for this pattern? Thank you.
15.06.2021 - 14:57DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Andrews, gauge is next to the yarn required for each size and needle size, ie 21 sts x 28 rows stockinette stitch with larger needle and 22 sts x 30 rows stockinette stitch with smaller needles. Happy knitting!
15.06.2021 kl. 16:36Dobrý den, nerozumím části, kde se končí sedlo - je napsáno: přízi odstřihneme. A měl by se začínat trup, je napsáno: označíme si začátek kruhové řady. Nerozumím tomu, že dosud jsem pletla tak, že začátek kruhové řady byl v polovině zad, to mám teď ustřihnout a začít na boku - pod rukávem? Jak se to prosím dělá? Děkuji
08.04.2021 - 14:57DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Ilono! Ano, je to přesně tak - přízi ustřihneme, konec začistíme a začneme plést na boku - je to praktičtější, začátek/konec kruhové řady se tak schová v ujímání. Hodně zdaru! Hana
25.04.2021 kl. 08:10