Embrace of the Sun by DROPS Design
Dress with lace pattern round yoke and short sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Muskat.
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 07, light yellow
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for the moss stitch – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat 100% Cotton |
from 1.05 £ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MOSS STITCH:
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Round 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
Repeat round 2.
INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 121 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 15) = 8.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch; on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.3).
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for the body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP-2 (for body):
Increase 1 stitch by picking up the stitch from the previous round and knitting the new stitch. When you increase after the first and third marker threads, pick up 1 stitch in the first stitch loop after the marker thread. When increasing before the second and fourth marker threads, pick up a stitch in the last loop before the marker thread.
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DRESS:
The yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeve edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 121-125-129-135-145-149 stitches with small circular needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work MOSS STITCH – see description above, for 2 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 15-19-23-17-15-19 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 136-144-152-152-160-168 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round. Then work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
Work A.1 in the round (= 17-18-19-19-20-21 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed, there are 204-216-228-228-240-252 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm from the cast on edge.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece for raglan as follows (do this without working the stitches): The first marker is inserted after the first 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker after the next 62-64-68-72-78-86 stitches (= front piece) and the 4th marker is inserted after the next 40-44-46-42-42-40 stitches (= sleeve). There are 31-32-34-36-39-43 stitches after the last marker for half the back piece.
Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 0-3-5-11-11-12 times and then every 4th round a total of 6-6-6-4-5-6 times. After the last increase to raglan there are 252-288-316-348-368-396 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 4-4-0-0-4-0 stitches evenly on round = 256-292-316-348-372-396 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (=in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 84-92-100-112-124-136 stitches (= in the sides of the dress). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches. Remove all markers and marker threads in the piece, except the marker thread at the beginning of piece.
When the piece measures 15 cm from the separation, insert 4 new marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted after the first 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches, 2nd marker thread after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches, 3rd marker thread after the next 30-36-42-52-62-72 stitches and the 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. There are 15-18-21-26-31-36 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread.
On the next round, increase after the first and third marker threads and before the second and fourth marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-5-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm a total of 7-6-8-8-8-8 times = 180-192-216-240-264-288 stitches.
When the piece measures 44-45-46-45-46-46 cm work A.2 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 12 stitches).
On each round with arrow in A.2 the beginning of the round is displaced 2 stitches towards the left, i.e. lift the 2 first stitches over to the right needle without working them, then work A.2 in the round. The 2 stitches that where lifted over to the right needle will be worked in the last repeat of A.2. On next round knit all stitches. Then start the round as normal. When A.2 is worked there is 240-256-288-320-352-384 stitches on the needle. Now work A.3 in the round (= 15-16-18-20-22-24 repeats of 16 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, there are 315-336-378-380-418-456 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you increase 14-15-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly on round = 329-351-395-399-439-479 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work moss stitch in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. The dress measures approx. 87-90-93-96-99-101 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the 52-62-68-72-74-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-70-78-82-86-90 stitches. Knit 1 round and at the same time decrease 1 stitch on this round = 59-69-77-81-85-89 stitches. Work moss stitch in the round for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over purl and purl over knit. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.
Diagram
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= knit |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
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= shift the start of the round 2 stitches to the left |
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= shift the start of the round 2 stitches to the left, then start each round here |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-5) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (26)
From the #dropsfan gallery
Embrace of the Sun
Embrace of the Sun
191-5 Embrace of the Sun
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 268 catalogues and 9972 patterns - 9964 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Dobrý den, nerozumím části, kde se končí sedlo - je napsáno: přízi odstřihneme. A měl by se začínat trup, je napsáno: označíme si začátek kruhové řady. Nerozumím tomu, že dosud jsem pletla tak, že začátek kruhové řady byl v polovině zad, to mám teď ustřihnout a začít na boku - pod rukávem? Jak se to prosím dělá? Děkuji
DROPS Design
25.04.2021 kl. 08:10:
Dobrý den, Ilono! Ano, je to přesně tak - přízi ustřihneme, konec začistíme a začneme plést na boku - je to praktičtější, začátek/konec kruhové řady se tak schová v ujímání. Hodně zdaru! HanaI am having a trouble understanding the instructions below. When it says to displcace 2 stitches, does it mean to just move two stitches over to the right without working on them just once in the beginning of the very first pattern? On each round with arrow in A.2 the beginning of the round is displaced 2 stitches towards the left, i.e. lift the 2 first stitches over to the right needle without working them, then work A.2 in the round.
DROPS Design
15.07.2020 kl. 14:28:
Dear Kim, at the very beg of the round, move the first 2 sts onto right needles without working them, rounds now start here, work as shown in diagram = the last st each repeat will be worked together with the first 2 sts next repeat (the first 2 sts you slipped at the beg of the round will be worked with the last st last repeat of the round) . Happy knitting!Is het mogelijk om dit jurkje met You#9 te breien? Alvast bedankt
Dag Dilianne,
Het garen waarmee dit jurkje gebreid wordt valt in garengroep B en You #9 valt in garengroep A, wat dus een andere stekenverhouding heeft. Voor een alternatief garen kun je het beste garen uit dezelfde garengroep uitkiezen.
Jeg er igang med denne kjole og kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe. Jeg har flere masker efter mønster. Nu skal jeg dele til ærmer og ved ikke hvordan de ekstra masker skal fordeles. Det er som om man har glemt at tælle opslagene med i mønstret. Er jeg helt forkert på den?????? Mvh. Heddah
DROPS Design
10.02.2020 kl. 16:33:
Hej Heddah, er du der hvor du sætter masker på en tråd til ærmer? Hvilken størrelse strikker du? Hvor mange masker har du? Hvor mange skal du have?Hej Drops Jeg kan ikke finde A.3 diagrammet... Det skulle være mellem A.2 og billedet af kjolen med mål på ikke? Mvh Carina
DROPS Design
15.01.2020 kl. 15:56:
Hej Carina, A.3 ligger under A.2 (lige over måleskitsen) God fornøjelse!What is the legend for your size range S to XXXL please in inches or centimetres. Please can you email me the response please.
DROPS Design
30.12.2019 kl. 11:43:
Dear Anita, since the fitting of each modell is different, you can find the relevant sizes on the shceatics drawing at the bottom of the pattern, usually in centimeters. We always suggest to get a sweater which fits you, and compare the measurements to those given on the drawing. If you need more help with the sizing, you can always ask for help in the store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!What is the legend for your size range S to XXXL please in inches or centimetres. Please can you email me the response please.
DROPS Design
15.12.2019 kl. 18:50:
Dear Anita, in the English UK version of the patterns, all measurements given are in cm. In the English US versions, they are in both cm and inches. Happy knitting!Når man har kommet til bolen og skal sette i 2 merketråder hvor begynner omg og skal det felles masker midtunder erme i de 8 maskene som er lagt opp.? Eller er det i overgangen mellom forstykket /erme jeg strikker i str m
DROPS Design
04.12.2019 kl. 11:40:
Hej Nina, Når du starter på bolen, har du sat ærmemaskerne på en tråd. Du sætter mærkerne midt i de nye masker du slog op under ærmerne og tager ind i hver side ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!RYG & FORSTYKKE. Når man skal sætte mærketråde i, skal 1. mærketråde starte på forsiden
DROPS Design
13.05.2019 kl. 09:02:
Hej Lisbet, Du tæller fra midt bagpå og sætter 1. mærketråd i overgangen fra det halve rygstykke og højre ærme, 2.mærketråd sidder mellem højre ærme og højre side af forstykket, tæl videre over forstykket og sæt 3. mærketråd i overgangen mellem forstykket i venstre side og venstre ærme. Sidste mærketråd i overgangen mellem venstre ærme og rygstykket. God fornøjelse!Jeg mener kjolen må bli alt for kort hvis man skal starte med A2 når den måler 44 cm. Jeg var heller ikke ferdig med økningen når jeg kom til 44 cm. Har regnet ut at fra A2 er det igjen ca 23 cm på det resterende, og den skal bli 87 cm i full lengde.
DROPS Design
07.05.2019 kl. 14:49:
Hei Marie. Bærestykket måler 19 cm fra oppleggskanten. Når bolen måler 15 cm settes 4 merker, og det økes ved hvert merke. Videre skal du øke hver 4 cm 6 ganger til (=totalt 7 ganger). Dvs, du øker over de neste 24 cm. Når alle økinger er ferdig måler bolen 39 cm. Fortsett uten økinger til bolen måler 44 cm (hel lengde: 44 + 19 = 63 cm). Så strikkes A.2 (32 omganger) og så A.3 (22 omganger) = ca 19 cm, før det avsluttes med 2 cm perlestrikk. Arbeidet måler nå: 63 + 19 + 2 = 84 cm fra oppleggskanten, og 87 cm fra skulderen og ned. Dette stemmer overens med målene oppgitt i målskissen. God fornøyelse