DROPS / 191 / 8

Le Conquet by DROPS Design

Jacket with raglan, moss stitch and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS design: Pattern z-817
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour no 2110, wheat
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – or size needed to get 13 stitches and 15 rows in moss stitch with 3 strands = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - for rib

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 63 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.6.
In this example increase after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (moss stitch). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) as follows: Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these two stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase on each side of the 4 marker threads.
On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs to make holes, then work the increased stitch in pattern. The 2 stitches along each raglan line are worked in stocking stitch until yoke is done.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker thread, slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, work next stitch as shown in A.1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over. This way A.1 will continue nicely over decrease on next row/round.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes approx. 7½-8-8-7-7½-8 cm apart.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle top down, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 63-63-69-75-78-81 stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 5 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above.
After rib purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 12-12-14-14-11-10 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 75-75-83-89-89-91 stitches.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread after the first 16-16-18-20-20-20 stitches (= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 9 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 25-25-29-31-31-33 stitches (= back piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 9 stitches (= sleeve). There are 16-16-18-20-20-20 stitches after last marker thread on front piece. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm and work first row from right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 11-11-13-15-15-15 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these two stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 7 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 23-23-27-29-29-31 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 7 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 11-11-13-15-15-15 stitches (begin and end with knit 1) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= 8 stitches increased). Continue A.1 back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and 2 stitches in stocking stitch along each raglan line. AT THE SAME TIME continue increase in RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads – see explanation above, until 11-15-16-16-19-20 increases have been done in total along each raglan line (including increase on first row after neck edge). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After last increase there are 163-195-211-217-241-251 stitches on needle. Continue pattern with 2 stitches in stocking stitch along each raglan line until piece measures 18-24-25-25-29-30 cm from cast-on edge mid front.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work the first 26-30-32-34-38-40
stitches as before, slip the next 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-11 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 45-53-57-59-67-73 stitches as before, slip the next 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-11 new stitches on needle and work the last 26-30-32-34-38-40 stitches as before. Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 107-123-131-141-157-175 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side and move the marker threads upwards when working.
Continue A.1 back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches in each side - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 6-4-4-8-8-8 cm a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times in each side = 95-111-119-133-149-167 stitches.
When piece measures 19-15-16-18-16-17 cm from division, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 13-12-13-17-19-19 stitches evenly = 108-123-132-150-168-186 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Work next row as follows from wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 5 stitches remain, purl 1 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Switch back to circular needle size 7 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge. Jacket measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 7 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches cast on under sleeve = 38-46-50-52-56-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches under sleeve. Continue A.1 in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 13-3½-3-3-2-1½cm 3-7-8-8-10-11 times in total = 32-32-34-36-36-38 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 32-27-26-26-23-22 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 4-4-5-3-3-4 stitches evenly = 36-36-39-39-39-42 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time cast off (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 36-31-30-30-27-26 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.02.2019
Correction- BODY: Work next row as follows from wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 2 *, repeat from *-*

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Charlotte 13.11.2019 - 14:23:

Bonjour, Je fais ce modèle en taille M. Je ne comprends pas le passage suivant : "Quand l'ouvrage mesure 19-15-16-18-16-17 cm depuis la séparation, tricoter 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit...". Pourquoi seulement 15 cm pour la taille M (moins que pour le S) ? Bonne journée.

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 14:46:

Bonjour Charlotte, la partie dos & devant est plus courte en taille S qu'en taille M car l'empiècement est plus long (21 cm en M contre 15 cm en S). Bon tricot!

Diette 18.09.2019 - 08:56:

Merci pour votre réponse;J'ai utilisé le convertisseur mais il ne veut pas me convertir Kid Silk 2 fils en Alpaca. Il veut bien avec 1 fil . Pourquoi ? Dois je multiplier le résultat 1 fil par 2 ? Merci encore pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 10:14:

Bonjour Mme Diette, dans ce modèle, vous pouvez convertir 1 fil Kid-Silk pour connaître la quantité nécessaire en Alpaca, mais ensuite, il vous faudra bien utiliser 3 fils Alpaca. Bon tricot!

Diette 17.09.2019 - 13:30:

Bonjour, Je voudrais savoir s'il est possible de tricoter ce modèle avec seulement la qualité Alpaca. Faut-il prendre trois fils dans ce cas ? Si c'est possible combien faut-il de pelotes pour le modèle S. Je vous remercie pour votre aide

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 13:33:

Bonjour Mme Diette, tout à fait, il vous faudra alors tricoter avec 3 fils Alpaca au lieu d'1 fil Alpaca et 2 fils Kid-Silk - utilisez notre convertisseur pour connaître la quantité nécessaire pour remplacer Kid-Silk (et pensez à l'additionner à celle de l'Alpaca pour votre taille). Bon tricot!

KatherineNorambuena 17.07.2019 - 14:38:

Hola! Me pueden explicar más en detalle la parte de \"tips para los aumentos\". No me queda claro en el ejemplo cómo hay que hacer el aumento si se debe hacer cada 4 o 5 filas, ya que siempre que he visto un canesu los aumentos se hacen por todas las filas del lado derecho del tejido.\r\nGracias!

Hege 15.05.2019 - 02:48:

Hei. Etter at armene er satt på hjelpetråd skal en strikke mønster i 19-15-16-18-16-17 cm...er det riktig at en str large skal ha mye kortere jakke enn XS/s? Eller tenker jeg helt feil?!

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 12:48:

Hei Hege. Bærestykket på jakken måler 18-24-25-25-29-30 cm fra oppleggskanten midt foran, og det stemmer at du så skal strikke 19-15-16-18-16-17 cm fra delingen, før du strikker 4 cm vrangbord. Hel lengde på jakken blir gradvis lenger oppover i størrelsene, som du også kan se på målskissen nederst på siden. Om du ønsker selve bolen lenger er det selvfølgelig ikke noe i veien for at du legger til på lengden. God fornøyelse

Ann-Karin 19.04.2019 - 11:48:

Eg Had tenkt å strikke meg ei slik jakke men K andre fargar, kva fargekombinasjoner vil dokke anbefale til brun eller blå jakke ? Kan vel ikkje ha naturfarge som tråd nr 2 då?

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 13:41:

Hei Ann-Karin. Her er det ingen fasitsvar, dette går helt på smak og behag. Hvis fargen du velger er relativtlys kan en naturhvit tråd passe (og da duse ned fargen), men om du har en mørk farge vil det bli en tydligere kontrast mellom trådene. Det finnes flere nyanser av både brun og blå i begge kvalitetene (fra lys til mørk). Så her er det bare å mixe og matche som du selv ønsker. Det beste er nok å gå i en butikk så du får sett garnene ved siden av hverandre, om du har mulighet til det. God fornøyelse

Kari Mette 17.04.2019 - 09:29:

Hei. Jeg ønsker å stikke denne jakken i rødt, men er usikker på hvilke farge i alpaca som matcher kid silk best??

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 15:01:

Hei Kari Mette. Om du vil strikke i rød burde du bruke en rød kid-silk også, natur vil nok da bli en for stor kontrast (hvis du ønsker at plagget skal være mest mulig jevn i fargen da). Kid-silk farge 32 feks, passer fint sammen med de fleste mørkere røde, og mer rød-rosa Alpaca-fargene (som feks 3650, 3900, 2922). Om du ønsker en veldig sterk rød kan du vurdere Alpaca 3620 og Kid silk 14. Her er det egentlig ikke noe fasitsvar, det beste er nok å besøke en butikk der du kan se på begge kvalitetene sammen, hvis du har mulighet til det. God fornøyelse

Marcia 04.04.2019 - 00:47:

Hi. Do you have a single thread yarn that I could substitute for the 3 threads the pattern calls for? I'd prefer not alpaca because it makes me itch!

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 08:20:

Hi Marcia! You should try DROPS Melody (1 single thread): 71% Alpaca, 25% Merino Wool, 4% Polyamide. It is very soft and light. Happy knitting!

Lavedan 05.03.2019 - 15:06:

Bonjour\\r\\nPour le début de l empiècement,il faut répéter le motif A1 au dessus des 15 mailles .Mais nous avons 16 mailles. Si on commence par une maille endroit on finit alors par 2 mailles endroit?\\r\\nJe vous remercie de m’éclairer sur ce point .\\r\\nBonne journée

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 22:33:

Bonjour Mme Lavedan! Il faut répéter A.1 seulement au-dessus des 15 mailles suivantes (en commençant et en terminant par 1 maille endroit): on commence par 1 maille endroit, 1 maille envers, etc, et on termine par 1 maille envers, 1 maille endroit. Ensuite il faut faire 1 jeté, tricoter 2 mailles jersey (le fil marqueur est entre ces 2 mailles), et travailler comme on voit dans les explications. Bon tricot!

POnchaux Claude 17.02.2019 - 09:19:

Comment dois faire pour mettre un modèle dans mes favoris ? Merci

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 10:01:

Bonjour Mme Ponchaux, juste à côté de l'icône pour imprimer les explications, vous avez un petit bouton "♥ Ajouter à mes favoris", cliquez là et ajoutez votre adresse mail pour conserver ce modèles dans vos favoris. Bon tricot!

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