DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 31-26
DROPS design: Pattern w-008-by
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 12 cm long and approx. 8 cm high
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g colour 30, grey blue
or
50 g colour 38, coral
and use:
50 g colour 17, off white
50 g colour 15, black
50 g colour 14, strong yellow
1 filled car weighs approx. 64 g.

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 17 double crochets x 20 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Children Kids' Room Toys
DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams A.2 to A.5 are the car, A.1 is the wheels, A.6 is lights and A.7 is bottom of car.
Section marked with grey has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in stitches/rows.
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CAR:
Car worked in several parts. First work 4 wheels, then the car. Finally work light and work the piece together.

WHEELS:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with the colour of the car and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work A.1 in the round = 1 wheel. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been worked, there are 9 double crochets on last round. Fasten off, fill the wheel with cotton wool and put aside. Work 4 wheels in total. They are worked together with car in diagram A.5.

CAR:
Work A.2 back and forth (= car roof and flaps down over the windows) with the colour of the car. When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round over stitches/rows in A.2 (= the windows). Section marked with grey = A.2, section has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in stitches. Work first round in A.3 with the colour of the car, then work with off white until 1 round remains. On last round place flaps down over windows and work together with corners in A.3 with the colour of the car (see the squares in A.2). When A.3 has been worked, there are 32 double crochets on last round. Fasten off the off white strand. Work the rest of car in the colour of the car. Work A.4 back and forth over the first 8 stitches (= front of car). Increase 1 double crochet in each side on first round = 10 double crochets. When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round over all stitches/rounds in A.4 and the remaining stitches in A.3 (= the sides, mid front and mid back on car).
On 4th round in A.5 work the wheels on car as follows: Fold last round on wheel double and work 1 double crochet through both layers of wheels and 4th row in A.5, work 2 double crochets in total through all 3 layers (= the wheel is now fastened with 2 double crochets to the car), work all 4 wheel to the car the same way.
When A.5 has been worked, there are 54 double crochets on last round. Fasten off.

LIGHTS:
Work A.6 with strong yellow. Cut the thread and tie ends together. Work 2 lights in total.
Sew light to the front of car. Fill the car with some cotton wool. Then work the bottom loosely in the round before working it together with the car.

BOTTOM:
Work 9 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with the colour of the car and work A.7, work on both sides of chain stitch row. When A.7 has been worked, there are 54 double crochets on last round. Work the bottom to car with 1 double crochet through both layers in the round, over all stitch. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = double crochet in stitch/row with the colour of the car
symbols = chain stitch with the colour of the car
symbols = 1 slip stitch and 1 chain stitch with the colour of the car
symbols = 2 double crochets in same stitch/row with the colour of the car
symbols = work with the colour of the car: 1 double crochet but work this stitch together with flaps on roof, see square in A.2, i.e. work through both layers, first time this is worked (= at beginning of round) work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet through both layers (i.e. in the middle of flap), finish round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet
symbols = begin row/round here
symbols = fasten off
symbols = work flaps together with last round in A.3 later
symbols = double crochet with off white
symbols = work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in next stitch / around chain stitch ring, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet (work with same colour as next stitch)
symbols = double crochet in stitch with black, first time this is worked (= at beginning of round) work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in first stitch
symbols = work with black as follows: 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet
symbols = work with black as follows: Work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in first/next stitch, but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet in next stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = work with black as follows: 3 chain stitch (replace first treble crochet), skip 1 stitch, 1 treble crochet in next stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first treble crochet at beginning of round
symbols = 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch with the colour of the car
symbols = work with strong yellow as follows: Work 3 treble crochets together in same chain stitch as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in chain stitch, but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 2 treble crochets more in same stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = work with the colour of the car as follows: Work 3 double crochets in same stitch, when this is worked at the beginning of a round, begin with 1 chain stitch, then work 3 double crochets in first stitch on previous round, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 31-26

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Suzanne wrote:

A7 isn't making any sense to me. Does the chain start at the right end? Do you maybe have a image how to follow the round?

22.05.2024 - 21:16

country flag Lis Larsen wrote:

Godaften Jeg kan ikke finde ud af at hækle bunden på bilen. Synes den er svær?

02.03.2024 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lis. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan, men fint om du beskriver hva som er vanskelig. Evnt. ta en titt på videoen: "Hækl: På begge sider af luftmaske rækken", samtidig som du følger diagram A.7 med tankene på økningene. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 14:00

country flag GERUM wrote:

Merci pour la réponse concernant le fond de la voiture baby 31-26 modèle w-008by j'aurais une autre question concernant les roues, en fait, je ne sais pas vraiment à quelle hauteur les accrochées car en crochetant ce modèle, j'ai un problème avec ces roues, je pense que ce j'ai bricolé n'est pas correct.

24.01.2024 - 12:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gerum, placez les roues de chaque côté, le long des longs côtés, vous pouvez les épingler auparavant pour vérifier l'emplacement puis, crochetez 1 ms dans les 2 épaisseurs de la roue (on l'a pliée en double/aplatie pour pouvoir crocheter dans le dernier rang) + dans la maille suivante de A.5, crochetez 1 autre maille serrée de la même façon et continuez en mailles serrées jusqu'à la roue suivante, et répétez pour les 2 autres roues le long de l'autre côté de la voiture. Bon crochet!

25.01.2024 - 08:14

country flag GERUM wrote:

Je suis entrain e réaliser au crochet My First Car baby 31-26, je n'arrive absolument pas à comprendre le diagramme A7 concernant le fond de la voiture, pourriez vous m'expliquer svpl.Merci

23.01.2024 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gerum, vous allez crocheter en mailles serrées le long des 2 côtés de la chaînette en augmentant en même temps dans les mailles indiquées par le dernier symbole de la légende, autrement dit, au 1er rang crochetez: 1 ml, 1 ms dans la 1ère ml, 1 ms dans chacune des 7 ml suivantes, 3 ms dans la ml suivante, pivotez l'ouvrage pour crocheter de l'autre côté de la chaînette , crochetez 1 ms dans la 1ère ml (la même que là où vous avez crocheté les 3 ms), puis 1 ms dans chacune des 7 ml suivantes, 3 ms dans la ml suivante, 1 mc dans la 1ère ms du début du rang. Bon crochet!

24.01.2024 - 08:24

country flag Paola wrote:

Non ho capito il passaggio da A2 a A3.,.. sul diagramma A3 fanno iniziare sulla 12 cat. della riga con 18 cat. Devo fare 6 m. basse con colore macchina girare ed altre 6 ma basse? (sarebbe il profilo dei finestrini). Poi continuo tutto intorno con colore macchina, Il mio dubbio è se i profili dei finestrini sono formati alla fine da tre giri, compreso il primo del diagramma A2 Grazie

12.05.2023 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, deve lavorare il primo e ultimo giro di A.3 con il colore della macchina, il resto in panna. Buon lavoro!

14.05.2023 - 13:49

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour Je voulais savoir si il y avait des explications rangs par rangs pour cette jolie voiture mais sans les grilles. J ai beaucoup de mal avec les grilles. Cordialement

25.10.2022 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, nous avons seulement des diagrammes pour cette voiture; mais cette leçon explique comment lire des diagramme et devrait ainsi pouvoir vous aider. Bon crochet!

25.10.2022 - 09:06

country flag Kristine Hansen wrote:

Hei. Finnes denne oppskriften i vanlig hekleoppskrift ? Synes det blir så klønete å hoppe frem og tilbake i diagram, koder og tegn.

25.07.2022 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristine, Desverre, foreløpig har vi ikke denne oppskriften uten diagrammer. God fornøyelse!

26.07.2022 - 06:54

country flag Betty wrote:

Thank you sooo much for your very quick reply to my question. And... yes, I do understand it now. So you made my day !

22.10.2020 - 10:46

country flag Betty wrote:

Can some one explain to me the underneath of the car, A7, I realy dont have a clue how that is been made. Thanks

21.10.2020 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Betty, you start A.7 with 9 chains (starting from the black star) then crochet from the black oval to the left in the round: 1 chain, 1 dc (UK-Eng) in each of the next 7 ch, 4 dc in next chain, work along the opposite side of the chain, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch, 3 dc in the last ch, 1 sl st in first ch. And continue working diagram in the round, with 3 dc in each of the 4 corners. Happy crocheting!

21.10.2020 - 16:33

country flag Sonia wrote:

Buenas noches,¿ Cómo logro pasar de 12puntos bajos de la segunda hilera ,a 18pts bajos de la tercera hilera de la rueda.? De antemano muy agradecida,saludos cariñosos

14.06.2020 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sonia. La tercera vuelta de la rueda se trabaja como sigue: *1 p.b. en el siguiente punto bajo, dos puntos bajos en el siguiente punto bajo*, repetir de * a * toda la vuelta.

14.06.2020 - 23:13