DROPS / 187 / 5

Belladonna by DROPS Design

Crocheted dress with texture pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Muskat.

Tags: dresses, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern r-720
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL- XXXL 
Materials: 
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-950 g colour 12, red
Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 17 treble crochets = width 10 cm.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
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Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. A.2 shows how round begins/ends when working in the round.

CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).

DECREASE TIP:
TREBLE CROCHET:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: 
Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet in next stitch/around the chain stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).
DOUBLE CROCHET:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next double crochet but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased)

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 156 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 6) = 26. In this example crochet approx. every 25th and 26th stitch together.
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DRESS: 
There is a 10 cm vent at the bottom of dress, first work piece back and forth until vent is done, then work piece in the round but turn on every round and work back on round to make the texture the same all the way. When piece is divided at the armhole, work back and forth again.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch to turn with is also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1 - read CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! After 10 cm put piece aside and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch to turn with is also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1. Continue until piece measures 10 cm - finish on the same row as on front piece.

DRESS after vent:
Continue pattern like this - first work stitches over front piece, then work stitch over back piece, then work round together with a slip stitch in 1st/3rd stitch on round, work stitch in A.2, turn piece and work back.
Insert 1 marker thread in transitions between front and back piece = sides.
Continue like this back and forth with pattern according to diagram A.1 and A.2. On rounds with treble crochets or double crochets there are now 156-168-180-192-216-240 stitches on round (A.2 is not counted in number of stitches). When piece measures approx. 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm - adjust so that next round is a round with treble crochets or double crochets (marked on diagram with star), decrease 6 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP (evenly). Repeat decrease 6 times in total on the 6 marked rounds with treble crochets or double crochets = 120-132-144-156-180-204 stitches on a round with treble crochets or double crochets.

After last decrease round work pattern as before for approx. 3 cm – adjust so that next round is a round marked with star (piece now measures approx. 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm). Now increase 6 stitches evenly on round by working 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Repeat increase 4 times in total vertically at the rounds marked in diagram = 144-156-168-180-204-228 stitches on a round with treble crochets or double crochets after last increase. When piece measures approx. 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm – adjust after a round marked with star, finish dress according to diagram A.3 (turn as before with diagram A.2). When piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm, divide the piece for front and back piece at the armholes.

FRONT PIECE:
Work slip stitches over the first 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches, then work until 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches remain before marker thread in the other side, turn piece. On next row work the 4 outermost stitches in each side together 2 by 2 – read DECREASE TIP! Repeat decrease on every row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On next row work the 2 outermost stitches together, repeat decrease on every row 2-2-2-3-4-5 more times.
After all decreases are done, 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches remain on row.
When piece measures 70-71-73-74-76-77 cm, finish each shoulder separately. 

SHOULDER:
Continue with treble crochets over the first 17-19-21-22-23-24 stitches from the right side of piece, turn and work the first 4 stitches together 2 by 2 for neck, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 4 stitches remain before neck, work these together 2 by 2, turn. On next row work the first 2 stitches together, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 2 stitches remain, work these together. Turn, work the first 2 stitches together, work the rest of row = 10-12-14-15-16-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm, fasten off. 
Work the other shoulder the same way, but in reverse. I.e. Start from the right side and working the decreases for neck at end of rows from WS.

BACK PIECE: 
Work slip stitches over the first 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches, then work until 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches remain before marker thread in the side, turn piece. On next row work the 4 outermost stitches in each side together 2 by 2 – read DECREASE TIP! Repeat decrease on every row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On next row work the 2 outermost stitches together, repeat decrease on every row 2-2-2-3-4-5 more times. After all decreases are done, 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches remain on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: Work 1 row over the first 12-14-16-17-18-19 stitches, turn, work the first 2 stitches together, work the rest of row. Turn and work until 2 stitches remain, work these together. Turn, work the rest of row, fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder. 

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

DECORATING EDGE:
Work a decorating edge around the neck, each armhole and at the bottom of body - as well as up and down each vent.
Work decorating edge as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 3rd chain stitch from hook, skip approx. 1 cm and make 1 double crochet *. Repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet from beginning of round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.09.2018
Correction: CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).
Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - SYMBOL DEFINITION: Star = on these rounds increase/decrease evenly - see pattern

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet in back loop of stitch from right side and in front loop of stitch from wrong side
= double crochet around chain stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
= treble crochet around chain stitch
= skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in/around next double crochet/chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in stitch that was skipped
= treble crochet group: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), work 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet the same way, pull yarn through all 4 stitches on hook
= on these rounds/rows increase/decrease evenly - see pattern
= this row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
= slip stitch


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

GiGi 14.11.2019 - 03:44:

I would like to make this into a long, maxi dress. Could you suggest how many stitches I should increase? Thanks so much for your help!

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 10:07:

Dear GiGi, we are unfortunately not able to adapt every pattern to every individual request, please contact the store where you bought the yarn or any crochet forum for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

Catherine 25.09.2019 - 14:01:

In the A1 pattern are the stars increases or decreases?

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 14:11:

Dear Catherine, the stars in A.1 shows the rows where you will decrease and increase when working the section DRESS, after vent - see also previous answer. Happy crocheting!

Catherine 25.09.2019 - 13:55:

On the A1 pattern when it tells you to increase evenly, where can you find how many you are supposed to increase by.

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 14:10:

Dear Catherine, when working the DRESS after vent, you will first decrease in diagrams to shape waist, then you will increase - see DRESS after Vent for more details for your size, ie you don't increase nor decrease before it's stated in the written pattern. Happy crocheting!

Cecilie 07.09.2019 - 21:16:

Når forstykket og bagstykket skal sættes sammen, er det så i begge sider jeg skal hækle dem sammen, så arbejdet bliver rundt?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 16:04:

Hej Cecilie, ja det stemmer, efter de 10 cm hækles arbejdet rundt, men vendes for hver omgang, for at strukturen skal blive ens hele vejen. God fornøjelse!

Ana Manjón 28.08.2019 - 01:44:

Para realizar el hombro delantero, si comienzo con 17 puntos: tras la siguiente vuelta (tejiendo cuatro puntos de dos en dos) , quedan 15. En la siguiente vuelta(de nuevo tejiendo cuatro puntos de dos en dos), quedan 13. Tras la tercera vuelta, tejiendo dos puntos juntos, quedarían 12 puntos. Pero según las indicaciones, deberían quedarme 10. ¿Falta alguna fila con disminuciones en el patrón?

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 21:04:

Hola Ana. Ha sido un fallo al publicar el patrón. Ya está corregido. Buen tricot.

LAURA L COLWELL 23.07.2019 - 19:09:

So I am at 12 1/4" so the adjust to decrease. The last round I did was row 8. So to decrease I skip to 12? And then continue working through the entire pattern until I have done 6 decrease rows? Or do I only work the 6 decrease rows and then work another 3" and start increase? So basically do I work 12*, 13,14,15,16*,17*,18, 1,2,3*,4, 5*,6,7,8*? 3inches, increase. Or do I JUST work 12,16,17,3,5,8,? 3 inches, increase? I'm so confused.

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:49:

Dear Mrs Colwell, you can either start decreasing on row 12, then on row 3, 5, 8, 12, 3 - or then depending on your length, start already on row 8 and then decrease on row 12, 3, 5, 8, 12. On each of these row you should decrease 6 sts evenly - see DECREASE TIP (evenly). Happy crocheting!

Birgitte 11.07.2019 - 15:36:

Jeg hækler kjolen Belladonna og har spørgsmål til hvad symbolet - betyder. I opskriften er det en kldemaske, dog en kraftigere streg, og en prik betyder også en kædemaske. Jeg er ved at hækle boblerne og for mig at se er dette symbol mellem boblerne og også højere oppe. Og jeg kan ikke få det til at passe meden kædemaske. Glæder mig til svar. På forhånd tak. Mvh Birgitte

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:31:

Hei Birgitte. Her kan jeg se at det er en feil i den danske versjonen av symbolforklaringen. En - er en luftmaske, den sorte prikken er en kjedemaske. Vi skal få rettet dette med en gang. Beklager dette, og god fornøyelse videre.

Emma 04.07.2019 - 23:41:

Whoops - I'm struggling to understand what is meant by row 2 with treble crochet between 2 treble crochets

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 01:41:

Dear Emma, it means, that when you put the crochet hook into the row, you are not putting it through the top of a stitch, but between two stitches. Happy Crafting!

Emma 04.07.2019 - 23:40:

I'm struggling to understand what is meant by row 2 with treble crochet between 2 treble crochets

Gitte 03.06.2019 - 12:48:

Der står pænt information omkring hvor mange cm man har i bredden i forhold til masker, men hvad med højden? Mit forhold passer på breden, men jeg har brugt et nøgle på at hækle forstykkets første 10 cm, har jeg så nok garn? når jeg anvender det garn der står i opskriften. Jeg har ekstra, men ville gerne lave en længere udgave.

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 14:56:

Hej Gitte, garnforbruget bør stemme, vi har ikke fået nogle kommentarer om at det ikke skulle stemme. I og med at du hækler nedefra og op, så bliver arbejdet smallere og smallere, så umiddelbart ser det ud til at stemme helt fint :) God fornøjelse!

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