DROPS / 187 / 2

Miles Away by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Cotton Light.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-084
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 21, light beige

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 treble crochets and 8 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. 
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked back and forth. First work the back and front pieces separately and then work the sleeves. All pieces are sewn together at the end. To finish, crochet an edge around the neck.

BACK PIECE:
Work 94-101-108-122-129-143 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Cotton Light. Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, work from *-* until there is 1 chain stitch left, 1 treble crochet in the last chain stitch = 80-86-92-104-110-122 treble crochets. Then work as follows from the right side: Work A.1 – read CROCHET INFO, A.2 (= 6 stitches) a total of 13-14-15-17-18-20 times in width and finish with A.3 over the last treble crochet. Continue this pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! A.1 to A.3 are repeated in height.
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, work the armholes as follows: Cut the strand, skip 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches (= armhole), work 1 slip stitch in the next stitch, 3 chain stitches, A.2 over the next 66-72-78-78-84-96 stitches and finish with A.3 over the next stitch (there are now 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches left for the other armhole = a total of 68-74-80-80-86-98 stitches on the row. On the next row work A.1 in the last treble crochet. Continue the pattern like this.
When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, adjust so that the last row was worked from the wrong side, finish each shoulder separately. Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 20-23-24-24-25-31 treble crochets (= shoulder). Work 2 rows with 1 treble crochet in each. Cut and fasten strand. The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Skip 28-28-32-32-36-36 stitches for neck, work 1 slip stitch in the next stitch and 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 19-22-23-23-24-30 stitches. Finish the shoulder in the same way as the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as for back piece until piece measures 42-44-44-46-46-48 cm, adjust so that the last row worked is the first row of A.2 (the last row is worked from the right side).
Now divide the piece and each shoulder is finished separately as follows:

RIGHT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
The first row is worked from the wrong side. Work A.3 over the first 1-1-2-2-3-3 stitches (work around chain stitches and in treble crochets), work A.2 over the next 15-18-18-18-18-24 stitches, work A.4 over the next 12 stitches, turn the piece. Continue the pattern and decreases to neck according to diagram A.4. When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, there are 20-23-24-24-25-31 treble crochets on the last row. Work pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-62 cm, adjust so that you finish with 1 row of treble crochets from the wrong side. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Now work the left shoulder as follows (first row = wrong side):
Skip 12-12-16-16-20-20 treble crochets from where A.4 was worked (= for neck), work 1 slip stitch in the next stitch, then work A.5 over the same stitch and the next 11 stitches (= a total of 12 stitches), work A.2 over the next 15-18-18-18-18-24 stitches and finish with A.1 over the last 1-1-2-2-3-3 stitches (work around chain stitches and in treble crochets). Continue the pattern and decrease according to diagram A.5. When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, there are 20-23-24-24-25-31 treble crochets on the last row. Work pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-62 cm, adjust to match the right shoulder. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Work 45-45-49-49-52-52 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Cotton Light. Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-5-7-7-5-5 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, work from *-* until there are 1-1-3-3-1-1 chain stitches left, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 chain stitches = 38-38-42-42-44-44 treble crochets.
Work A.1 over the first 1-1-3-3-1-1 treble crochets, A.2 until there are 1-1-3-3-1-1 treble crochets left (= 6-6-6-6-7-7 times in width), A.3 over the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 treble crochets. Work A.1 to A.3 in height to finished length. When the piece measures 10 cm increase 1 treble crochet in each side of the piece by working 2 treble crochets in the first and last treble crochet on the row (= 2 treble crochets increased). Increase like this every 4-3½-3½-2½-2½-2 cm a total of 10-11-11-13-13-15 times = 58-60-64-68-70-74 stitches. The increased stitches are worked into A.2 as you go. NOTE: There is always 1 treble crochet (or 3 chain stitches = 1 treble crochet) in each side of the piece. When the piece measures 48-48-47-44-44-41 cm, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row; the sleeve seams will later be sewn as far as the marker and the remaining rows sewn together with the 6-6-6-12-12-12 treble crochets on the back/front piece which were skipped to make the armhole in each side of the piece (= mid under sleeve). Continue back and forth until the piece measures 52-52-51-51-51-48 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Cut and fasten strand. Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Sew in the sleeves, the marker on the sleeve marks the side seam on the front and back pieces and the rows worked after the marker are sewn to the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches skipped for armholes on front and back pieces. Start at bottom of sleeve and sew sleeve seam in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, continue with side seam on front and back pieces. Cut and fasten all strands.

NECK:
Crochet an edge around the neck as follows from mid top of shoulder: Work 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* around the whole neck and finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the round, make sure the edge is not tight. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 1 treble crochet in treble crochet
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch
= this row has already been worked; it shows how the next row is worked in/around the stitches
= work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 more treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook (when the row starts like this, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Janet 03.02.2020 - 20:18:

..on page 2 where it says to skip the first six and last six stitches to create the armhole, it also says to “Continue like this.” Does that mean to continue skipping 6 at the beginning and end of every row, or every new set of pattern repeats (so Row 1 of the A1 and a2 charts) or just this once? If it’s just once, that makes a very square edge at each corner. Doing it everyrow will decrease very quickly, so I’m thinking it’s once every 4 rows, at the beginning of the 4-row repeat.

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 10:44:

Dear Janet, you continue in pattern as before over the middle stitches (only the 6 stitches on each side are not worked anymore for the armholes). The sleeves will be sewn later along the armholes/stitches skipped. Happy crocheting!

Marlies 14.11.2019 - 20:05:

Hallo, Ik wil graag een sjaal maken met dit patroon van steken. Hoe kan ik dit het beste aanpakken? Mvg, Marlies

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 12:02:

Dag Marlies,

Het handigst is om even een proeflapje te maken met het patroon. Aan de hand daarvan kun je kijken hoeveel steken je nodig hebt voor de breedte van de sjaal die je wilt.

Ditte 23.10.2019 - 16:51:

Hjælp.\r\nJeg kan simpelthen ikke få højre skulder på forstykket til at passe. \r\nNår jeg har hæklet diagrammet, ender jeg med 23 stm (inklusiv dem jeg vender med) og kun 22 masker. \r\nJeg skal lande på 24 masker. \r\n\r\nEr der nogen der kan forklare opskriften på en anden måde?

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 15:09:

Hej Ditte, det er svært at regne ud hvor det går galt, kan du ikke starte 1 maske tidligere så du får 1 stangmaske mere...? Eller hvis du ikke vil trevle op, så hækle 1 stangmaske mere ind på sidste række. God fornøjelse!

Janet 18.09.2019 - 17:53:

Hello, I'm having a little trouble deciphering the instructions and so have tried to write them out before I start. Is this pattern sequence correct? Also, I do not see the V-stitch symbol on the list of stitches. Pattern R2: (RIGHT SIDE) dc in 1st dc, * dc, ch1* to last dc, dc R3: dc in 1st dc, 2 dc around each ch st R4: dc in 1st dc, *skip next dc, V-stitch in next dc, skip 2 dc*, dc in last dc R5: dc in 1st dc, 3 dc around ch sp Correct? Or close to?

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 09:02:

Dear Janet, this looks correct except that you missed the end of every row with A.1 /A.3 (= 1 dc in the 3rd ch from beg of previous row from WS). Happy crocheting!

Christina 10.09.2019 - 13:31:

Ich habe den Pullover mit einem Baumwoll/Leinen-Garn gehäkelt. Er ist wirklich schön. Tolles Modell. Durch die angesetzten Ärmel sitzt er auch in großen Größen gut.

Elise 20.08.2019 - 22:15:

Hallo, ik ben deze trui met cotton light aan het haken. Ik maak hem in maat L echter is hij nu nog maar 52 cm breed. Ik haak niet vast dus een dikkere haaknaald zal het niet mooiee maken. Zou de trui tijdens het dragen wijder worden? Ik heb officieel maat M. Groeten, Elise

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 12:11:

Dag Elise,

Om de juiste breedte te krijgen, zou je de juiste stekenverhouding moeten krijgen zoals aangegeven in het patroon. Dus misschien is het toch beter om een grotere naald te gebruiken en eerst even een proeflapje te maken. (Misschien is het zo dat je veel op het uiteinde van de haaknaald haakt, waardoor de steken strakker/kleiner worden?)

Bianca 09.08.2019 - 09:28:

Als ik het voorpand haak zoals achterkant bedoelen jullie dan ook de armsgaten of sla je die over en ga je door de hals/schouder? Als ik de rechter schouder hebt gehaakt Jan ik namelijk geen 12 stokjes overslaan en dan linker schouder haken aangezien ik dan niet genoeg steken heb voor de schouder... Hoop dat je snapt wat ik bedoel...

DROPS Design 10.08.2019 kl. 15:31:

Dag Bianca,

Op het voorpand haak je inderdaad ook de armsgaten zoals op het achterpand. Even uitgaande van de kleinste maat als voorbeeld, heb je 68 steken op de toer wanneer je met de rechter schouder begint. Je haakt A.3 (1 steek), A.2 (15 steken) en A.4 (12 steken) over deze rechter schouder = in totaal 28 steken. Als je van die 68 2 maal 28 steken aftrekt voor beide schouders, dan houd je 12 steken over. Dit zijn de 12 steken die je over moet slaan vanaf waar A.4 is gehaakt.

JMFS 15.07.2019 - 03:59:

I couldn't get the pattern to work by adding dc at the end of each row until I had 6 dc between the row ends. The multiples are in 6s so after the 3rd iteration of inc there should be 3 stitches added to each side, which would be a new pattern multiple. It never worked. I even tried with a swatch. I winged it by adding 1 dc on each end of the row, then repeated A2 instead of adding dcs to get 3 dc on each side before repeating A2. The pattern shifted a little but looks fine once seamed.

Ineke Varley 07.07.2019 - 14:47:

Hi, I am doing the small size and having trouble with the sleeves especial rows 3 & 4 of A2 and the increasing. The pattern doesn’t come out evenly. I end up with 1 stitch too many in these rows that require sets of 3 stitches. Rows 1& 2 of A2 don’t have any issues. I also found that by time I get to 58 stitches total I will not be able to do the 3&4 row of A2 evenly. Do I just work A1 then A2 and do A3 (then also in reverse) until I have the required stitches. Thank you

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:06:

Dear Mrs Varley, continue working A.2 on sleeve as explained, work the new stitches with dc only, and when there are enough sts to work one new repeat on each side of sleeve, continue working A.2 over these stitches. That way, pattern will not be displaced. And you will be sure to get the correct number of stitches. Happy crocheting!

Manuela 02.06.2019 - 14:15:

Wieviele Knäuel brauche ich insgesamt für den Pullover wenn ich ihn in Größe M häkle?

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:09:

Liebe Manuela, die Garnmenge für jede Größe finden Sie unter dem Kopfteil - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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