Montecito by DROPS Design
Knitted jumper with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-650-700-750-850-900 g colour 16, white
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 CM) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 CM) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib and garter stitch – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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DROPS Paris 100% Cotton |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 183 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 11) = 16.6. In this example, alternately knit together every 15th and 16th stitch and every 16th and 17th stitch.
DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side: Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of A.1.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.1 as follows (= 8 stitches decreased each time):
Start 2 stitches before A.1, knit 2 stitches together, work A.1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
INCREASE TIP (for sleeve):
Increase as follows mid under sleeve – start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
BODY:
Cast on 183-200-213-225-247-264 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Paris. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 11-12-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 172-188-200-212-232-248 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round and a marker thread after 86-94-100-106-116-124 stitches = in the sides. Then work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 7 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the sides (= 4 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 6 cm a total of 6 times in all sizes = 148-164-176-188-208-224 stitches. When the piece measures 39 cm work the next round as follows: Cast off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for armhole, work the next 68-76-80-86-94-102 stitches (= front piece), cast off the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches for armhole (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker thread), work the next 68-76-80-86-94-102 stitches (= back piece), cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for armhole. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, change to short circular needle when you have enough stitches. Cast on 40-44-44-48-56-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Paris. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the piece measures 6 cm change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 6-6-6-8-12-12 stitches evenly on round = 34-38-38-40-44-44 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 9-8-10-8-7-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 12-13-17-17-19-20 times = 58-64-72-74-82-84 stitches. When the piece measures 41-40-39-37-36-34 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 52-58-64-66-72-74 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where the stitches were cast off for the armholes = 240-268-288-304-332-352 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads).
The next round is worked as follows – start the round after the first 9-8-7-9-8-9 stitches on the back piece: Work * 50-60-66-68-78-84 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches), 40-44-48-54-58-62 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. Continue this pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – see description above. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 19-21-23-25-27-29 times = 88-100-104-104-116-120 stitches. The yoke measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 4 ridges over all stitches, but on the first round decrease 6-15-16-13-19-18 stitches evenly on round = 82-85-88-91-97-102 stitches. Continue until you have worked a total of 4 ridges then cast off with knit – to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, cast off with needle size 5.5 mm.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening under sleeves.
Diagram
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-28) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (19)
An Van Cuijk
03.08.2020 - 19:07:
Ik wil de trui Montecito breien. Het advies hiervoor is Drops Paris. Is er een glansgaren wat hierop lijkt dat ik als vervanger kan gebruiken? Liefst met dezelfde stekenverhouding zodat ik het patroon niet heel erg hoef aan te passen. Deze trui is rondgebreid. Met gewone breinaalden neem ik altijd een halve maat dikker omdat ik vast brei. Moet dat met rondbreinaalden ook? Ik hoor graag van u. Mvg An
DROPS Design
31.08.2020 kl. 10:07:
Dag An,
Voor een vervangend garen kun je ieder garen uit dezelfde garengroep, dus garengroep C nemen of 2 draden uit garengroep A, omdat je dan dezelfde stekenverhouding hebt. Maak altijd een proeflapje en pas evt. de naalddikte aan om op de aangegeven stekenverhouding te komen. Voor rechte naalden en rondbreinaalden kun je in principe dezelfde dikte aanhouden, maar sommige mensen brein losser/vaster op rondbreinaalden tov rechte naalden, dus houd dit ook even in de gaten.
Martina Hußmann
29.08.2019 - 15:46:
Liebe Mitarbeiter/innen, Ich freue mich jedesmal über Ihr so tolles älteres Modell in der häufigsten Durchschnitts-Größe!!! Da sitzen die Pullis super! Ich würde mich über noch viel mehr Modelle in unterschiedlichen Größen und Alter sehr freuen!!! Liebe Grüße, Martina
Åsa
17.01.2019 - 08:34:
Hvor er det dejligt med et voksent menneske som model, mere af det.
Ramona Fe
25.11.2018 - 12:44:
Hallo liebes Drops ( Garnstudioteam) ich habe jetzt den ersten Ärmel fast fertig. Wo messe ich am Besten für die 34cm? An den zunahme punkt , da hätte ich 34cm. Oder etwas weiter hinten, da hätte ich allerdings erst 32cm. Ist das so richtig das die zunahmestelle etwas erhöt ist? Vielen Lieben Dank für eure Hilfe und Geduld die ihr alle für Uns aufbringt 😘
DROPS Design
26.11.2018 kl. 09:34:
TanjaK.
19.11.2018 - 14:40:
Hallo... Eine kleine frage hätte ich......wie wird gemesssen? Inkl.bündchen oder ab Rechte Maschen?
DROPS Design
19.11.2018 kl. 14:46:
Mona
07.11.2018 - 19:39:
Hallo Liebes Drops Team Ich habe eine Frage zecks Maße. Ich habe (glaube ich) hier bei Drops gelesen das man 2 verschieden Möglichkeiten hat seine Maße für den Pulli raus zufinden . 1x ein Passendees Oberteil ausmessen *laut skizze* oder seinen Brustumpfang. jetzt sind es bei mir 2 verschiedene Maße. Welche empfiehlt ihr, die Größere ( die Durch das Oberteil ermittelt wurde) oder Die Maße die Durch den Brustumpfang ermittelt wurde. Danke
DROPS Design
08.11.2018 kl. 09:04:
Sarah
12.03.2018 - 23:55:
Lovely to see older models
Adelle Lindsay
12.03.2018 - 14:08:
Love this pattern but don't knit in the round. Is there a 'pieced, flat' version available or a similar pattern of the same shape/style?
DROPS Design
12.03.2018 kl. 16:13:
Jennifer Douglas
17.02.2018 - 10:52:
How refreshing to see an "older" model. Grannies don't just wear shawls and grey cardigans.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 262 catalogues and 9716 patterns - 9708 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
L.S.\r\nIk brei Drops model 188-28. Moet bij de PAS de patroonrij iedere keer twee keer herhaald worden?\r\nMet vriendelijke groet,\r\nA. Mulder