DROPS / 188 / 13

Tamera by DROPS Design

Jacket knitted sideways with lace pattern and ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-675
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
950-1050-1150-1250-1350-1550 g colour 100, light wash

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm – for edges in garter stitch on sleeves.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm – for crochet edges around the sleeves.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.05£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.4).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front to mid back in two parts that are sewn together mid back. Sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles, then sew sleeves to armhole.

LEFT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Cast on 191-191-203-203-227-227 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris.
Work first row as follows from right side: A.1 (= 5 stitches), work A.2A until 6 stitches remain on row (= 15-15-16-16-18-18 repetitions of 12 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with A.1 (= 5 stitches). Continue pattern like this. When A.2 has been worked, there are 131-131-139-139-155-155 stitches on needle.
Work next row as follows from right side: Continue A.1 as before, work 14-14-18-18-15-15 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.3 until 13-13-17-17-14-14 stitches remain on needle (= 9-9-9-9-11-11 repetitions of 11 stitches), work 8-8-12-12-9-9 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.1 as before. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 36 cm.
Now work in stocking stitch with A.1 over the 5 edge stitches in in each side as before until piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm. On next row from right side cast off for armhole as follows: Work the first 65-63-69-67-81-79 stitches, cast off the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches and work as before over the last 38 stitches. On next row (wrong side) cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 new stitches over the cast off stitches for armhole and continue in stocking stitch and A.1 in each side as before
When piece measures 49-51-53-52-54-56 cm (i.e. 6-7-8-6-7-8 cm from armhole and approx. 12-12-12-15-15-15 cm before finished measurements), work next row as follows from right side: Continue A.1 as before, work A.4A until 6 stitches remain on needle (= 15-15-16-16-18-18 repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.4B (= 1 stitch) and finish with A.1 as before. Continue pattern like this until last row in A.4 remain. Piece measures approx. 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm from cast-on edge.
Now work a gusset in garter stitch with short rows so that edge on jacket falls nicely in the back of neck. Beginning from the wrong side and work as follows: Knit the first 39 stitches, turn piece, tighten yarn and knit back. Turn piece, knit the first 36 stitches, turn piece, tighten yarn and knit back. Continue by working 3 stitches less on every turn until the last 3 stitches have been worked back and forth. Knit 1 row from wrong side over all stitches and then cast off by knitting from right side. Cast-off edge = mid back, make sure to avoid a tight edge.

RIGHT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Follow the explanation for left front and back piece until piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm. On next row from right side cast off for armhole as follows: Work the first 38 stitches, cast off the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches and work as before over the last 65-63-69-67-81-79 stitches. On next row (wrong side) cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 new stitches over the cast off stitches. Continue back and forth as before the same way as on left front and back piece until 2 rows remain in A.4.
Now work the gusset as follows: Begin from right side and knit the first 39 stitches, turn piece, tighten yarn and knit back. Turn piece, knit the first 36 stitches, turn piece, tighten yarn and knit back. Continue by working 3 stitches less on every turn until the last 3 stitches have been worked back and forth. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side and then cast off by knitting from right side.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked top down. Work first the sleeve cap back and forth on a short circular needle. Then work in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Cast on 24-28-32-34-38-42 stitches on short circular needle size 5 mm. Work in stocking stitch back and forth and cast AT THE SAME TIME on 5 stitches at the end of every row 3 times in total in each side = 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches. Piece now measures approx. 3 cm from cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of row. Work in stocking stitch in the round on a short circular needle or double pointed needles and let the marker thread follow in piece.
When piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm from where marker thread was inserted, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-4-3½-3½-3½-3 cm 7-8-9-9-10-11 times in total = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 34 cm from where marker thread was inserted. Knit 1 round while decreasing 0-2-4-6-0-2 stitches evenly = 40-40-40-40-48-48 stitches. Work A.5 in the round (= 5-5-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.5 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off by knitting.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet on hook size 4.5 mm at the bottom around both sleeves as follows: Begin with 1 double crochet in first stitch, * work 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip approx. 1-1½ cm on sleeve, work 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet on round (instead of 1 double crochet in next stitch).

ASSEMBLY:
Graft/sew the 2 parts together mid back inside cast-off edge. Sew in sleeves.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= knitting direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Kerstin 26.12.2018 - 14:15:

Hallo, wie stricke ich die direkte „Rückreihe“ nach Maschenaufnahme? In der Anleitung steht, dass erst die darauffolgende Hinreihe nach dem Muster gestrickt wird?

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 09:52:

Liebe Kerstin, bei der 1. Hinreihe stricken Sie: A.1, A.2A 15-15-16-16-18-18 Mal, A.2B, A.1 - bei der Rückreihen stricken Sie: A.1, A.2B, A.2A 15-15-16-16-18-18 und A.1. Die Diagramme bei den Rückreihen links nach rechts lesen (und rechts nach links bei den Hinreihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Carina Olsen 03.10.2018 - 21:19:

Hej. Hvordan laves indtagningen for sådan som jeg læser diagrammet så hver gang man laver indtagning har man enten lige lavet omslag eller laver et umiddelbart efter. Men man skal lave en indtagning så man går fra 227 masker til 155 og nu har jeg stirret på det i en time og synes stadig at alle indtagning går op med omslag.

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 08:27:

Hei Carina. Det er fellinger på rad 25 og 35 i diagram A.2A: her er det ingen kast i forbindelse med symbolet for ta 1 maske løst av pinnen, strikk 2 rett sammen, trekke den løse masken over. Det felles derfor 2 masker på disse omgangen. Du kan også se at diagrammet blir 1 maske smalere. Du strikker 18 rapporter av A.2A i bredden, når du feller 2 masker i hver rapport har du felt 36 masker hver felleomgang = totalt 72 masker felt når A.2A er stikket 1 gang i høyden. 227-72 = 155 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse.

Sabine Weber 25.12.2017 - 13:16:

Klasse Modell, passt perfekt zu Jeans. Würde es gerne nacharbeiten.

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