DROPS Muskat
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DROPS Buttons
Round (Blush) No. 618

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.05£.

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Lydia

Jacket with lace pattern and wave pattern, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS 188-24

#lydiacardigan

DROPS design: Pattern r-716
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-750-850-900-1000 g colour 05, powder pink

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for garter stitch edges – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 45 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL-BUTTON, round (light pink), NO 618: 8 pieces for all sizes
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to sleeves):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (applies to yoke):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Purl yarn over twisted on next row, it should not make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body and sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip next stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased in total).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Choose diagram for your size in A.5 to A.8. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 4 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit the last 2 stitches. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when band on right front piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7-7-7-7½-7½ cm between each.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. First work each shoulder separately before slipping piece together. First work the sleeves back and forth on circular needle and then in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

BACK PIECE:
First work 2 shoulder, cast on stitches for neck, slip shoulders together and then work back and forth down to armhole.

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-22-21-26-25-30 stitches (including 1 edge stitch) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work from wrong side. Purl until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above (= towards armhole).
Work next row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over next stitch, work A.2 (= 10 stitches) over the next 10-20-10-20-20-20 stitches (= 1-2-1-2-2-2 times in width), finish with 5-0-9-4-3-8 stitches in stocking stitch (= towards neck). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 2 cm, put piece aside and work right shoulder (adjust so that last row is worked from right side).

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-22-21-26-25-30 stitches (including 1 edge stitch) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows from WS: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= towards armhole), purl the rest of row.
Work next row as follows from right side (= from the neck): Work 6-1-10-5-4-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 over the next 10-20-10-20-20-20 stitches (= 1-2-1-2-2-2 times in width) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 2 cm, adjust measurement with left shoulder, same number of rows should now have been worked as on left shoulder (i.e. last row is worked from right side), cast on stitches for neck between right shoulder and left shoulder from wrong side as follows: Work right shoulder as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before over remaining stitches, cast on 39-39-41-41-43-43 new stitches, work pattern as before over left shoulder until 1 stitch remains and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

YOKE AT THE BACK:
= 73-83-83-93-93-103 stitches. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over next stitch as before, work A.2 over the next 70-80-80-90-90-100 stitches (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 times in width), finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 14-15-15-16-13-14 cm. Now increase 1 stitch – read INCREASE TIP - for armhole inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece on every row from right side (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this 4-4-6-6-11-11 times in total = 81-91-95-105-115-125 stitches. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Cast on 5-4-6-6-8-9 stitches at the end of next row from wrong side and 6-5-7-7-9-10 stitches at the end of next row from right side = 92-100-108-118-132-144 stitches.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Work 1 row from wrong side. Piece now measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm. Put piece aside and work the front pieces.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-22-21-26-25-30 stitches (including 1 edge stitch) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work from wrong side. Purl until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work next row as follows from right side (= from the armhole): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over next stitch, work A.2 over the next 10-20-10-20-20-20 stitches (= 1-2-1-2-2-2 times in width), finish with 5-0-9-4-3-8 stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, cast on new stitches for neck at the end of every row from right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4 times, 2 stitches 3 times and 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches 1 time = 42-47-47-52-52-57 stitches.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Then work next row from right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over next stitch, A.2 over the next 30-40-40-40-40-50 stitches, A.3 (= 5 stitches) over the next 5-0-0-5-5-0 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
When piece measures 15-16-16-17-14-15 cm (adjust measurement with back piece and make sure that next row is from right side, 8-8-12-12-22-22 rows now remain until piece is put together) increase 1 stitch for armhole inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the beginning of every row from right side. Increase like this 4-4-6-6-11-11 times in total = 46-51-53-58-63-68 stitches. Then cast on 5-4-6-6-8-9 stitches at the end of next row from wrong side = 51-55-59-64-71-77 stitches. Piece now measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm. Put piece aside and work the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-22-21-26-25-30 stitches (including 1 edge stitch) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work from wrong side. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= towards armhole), purl the rest of row.
Work next row as follows from right side (= from the neck): Work 6-1-10-5-4-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 over the next 10-20-10-20-20-20 stitches (= 1-2-1-2-2-2 times in width) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, cast on new stitches for neck at the end of every row from wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4 times, 2 stitches 3 times and 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches 1 time = 42-47-47-52-52-57 stitches.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Then work next row from right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 0-1-1-0-0-1 stitch, A.4 (= 6 stitches) over the next 6-0-0-6-6-0 stitches, work A.2 over the next 30-40-40-40-40-50 stitches (= 3-4-4-4-4-5 times in width), finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 14-15-15-16-13-14 cm (adjust measurement with back piece and make sure that next row is from right side, 10-10-14-14-24-24 rows now remain until piece is put together) increase 1 stitch for armhole inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of every row from right side. Increase like this 4-4-6-6-11-11 times in total = 46-51-53-58-63-68 stitches. Then cast on 6-5-7-7-9-10 stitches at the end of next row from right side = 52-56-60-65-72-78 stitches.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Work 1 row from wrong side. Piece now measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm.

BODY:
Now work all parts together from right side as follows:
First work over left front piece as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 0-1-1-0-0-1 stitch, A.4 over the next 6-0-0-6-6-0 stitches, work A.2 over the next 30-40-40-40-40-50 stitches, 11-10-14-14-21-22 stitches in stocking stitch, insert 1 marker thread.
Then work over back piece as follows: Work 10-9-13-13-20-21 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 over next stitch, work A.2 over the next 70-80-80-90-90-100 stitches as before (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 times in width), 11-10-14-14-21-22 stitches in stocking stitch.
Then work over right front piece as follows: Insert 1 marker thread, work 10-9-13-13-20-21 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 over next stitch, work A.2 over the next 30-40-40-40-40-50 stitches, A.3 over the next 5-0-0-5-5-0 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this. There are now 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches on row and there are 21-19-27-27-41-43 stitches in stocking stitch in total between front pieces and back piece.
Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-3-3-2-9 cm 6-5-4-4-6-2 times in total = 171-191-211-231-251-291 stitches. When all stitches have been decreased, 9-9-19-19-29-39 stitches in stocking stitch remain between front pieces and back piece.
When piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from marker, adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.2, then work as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.5a (= 1 stitch) over the next 0-1-1-0-0-1 stitch, A.6a over the next 6-0-0-6-6-0 stitches, work A.7a over the next 150-180-200-210-230-280 stitches (= 15-18-20-21-23-28 repetitions in width), A.8a (= 5 stitches) over the next 5-0-0-5-5-0 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. Increase stitches in A.6a to A.8a. When A.5a to A.8a have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 267-299-331-363-395-459 stitches on needle. Work A.5b over A.5a, A.6b over A.6a, A.7b over A.7a and A.8b over A.8a.
When all stitches in A.6b to A.8b have been increased, there are 347-353-371-407-443-459 stitches on row. When 4 rows remain in A.5b to A.8b, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. On last row in A.5b to A.8b cast off as follows: Cast off 5 band stitches by knitting, cast off A.5b to A.8b as shown in diagrams, cast off the last 5 band stitches, make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, cast off with needle 1 size larger if needed. Piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm in total.

SLEEVE:
Worked top down.
Work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles until finished measurements.
Cast on 23-25-27-31-33-37 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat.
Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1-1-2-5-4-3 times, 2 stitches 7-8-6-1-1-0 times, 1 stitch 4-3-5-7-9-14 times and 2-2-3-3-5-7 stitches 1 time = 69-73-79-85-89-97 stitches (piece measures approx. 9-9-10-10-11-13 cm).
When sleeve cap has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve) and continue in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-16 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm 9-11-14-12-14-18 times in total = 51-51-51-61-61-61 stitches.
When piece measures 37-35-36-35-36-35 cm, work A.2 over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 1 stitch (i.e. work A.2 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total in width) = 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches. When A.2 has been worked 2 times vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above. Then cast off, make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, cast off with 1 larger needle size if needed. Piece measures approx. 44-42-43-42-43-42 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 100-124 stitches around the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 2 ridges back and forth. Then cast off, make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, cast off with 1 larger needle size if needed.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
	= cast off 1 stitch
	= cast off 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over, cast off yarn over, this is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge
	= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (21)

Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour. Pour la taille S il est noté au tout début des explications : continuer jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 14 cm. Faut il mesurer a partir des mailles montées entre les 2 épaules ou du début des épaules ? Merci pour votre aide

26.09.2024 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, mesurez à partir des mailles montées pour l'une des épaules, pas à partir de l'encolure dos. Bon tricot!

27.09.2024 - 08:47

Bonjour Si j'ai bien vu il n'y a pas as de diagrammes A6A et A6B dans la taille M ? Merci pour votre réponse

23.09.2024 - 21:05

Bonjour Sylvie, tout à fait, on ne tricote pas A.6 en taille M. Bon tricot!

24.09.2024 - 09:13

Angelika Romanski wrote:

Hallo, soll die linke und rechte Schulter jeweils getrennt gestrickt werden ... soviel Rundstricknadeln in den vorgegebenen Größe habe ich nicht. In der Anleitung steht nicht, ob die Maschen dann stillgelegt werden sollen .... für die Passe auch wieder neu anschlagen oder wie? HG Angelika

20.08.2022 - 00:26

Liebe Angelika, ja die beiden Schulter beim Rückenteil werden separat gestrickt, dh die linke Schulter zuerst stricken und zur Seite legen, dann die rechte Schulter stricken. Danach stricken Sie die rechte Schulter, schlagen Sie neue Maschen für den Halsausschnitt und stricken Sie die linke Schulter. Sie können die Maschen auf einen Faden stilllegen (siehe Video), so brauchen Sie keine zusätzliche Rundnadel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.08.2022 - 09:20

Elfa wrote:

Góðan dag, er að velta fyrir mér hvort það passar eða hvort það er prentvilla að handvegsútaukning hefst eftir færri cm á stóru númerunum en þeim minni, eins og handvegurinn verði víðari á minni númerunum?

03.07.2021 - 11:21

Blessuð Elfa. Ermin er styttri í heildina í stærri stærðum. Þar sem breiddin á líkamanum / öxlinni er stærri í stærri stærðum þannig að þá verður ermin styttri í stærri stærðunum en í þeim minni.

18.08.2021 - 11:45

Dorthe Sørby wrote:

Hej DROPS jeg er ved at strikke modellen 188-24. str. xxxl jeg er kommet til side 5 .hvor der står at arbejdet måler 16 cm. og kan simpelthen ikke forstå det næste. jeg har nu 291 m på pinden . jeg skal dernæst få 459 m. men forstår ikke hvordan jeg får taget ud (hvilket mønster jeg skal bruge, til at få de 459 m.) jeg forstår heller ikke hvilket mønster jeg skal bruge EFTER jeg har fået 459 m. på en str. xxxl venlig hilsen Dorthe

25.08.2020 - 13:32

Hej Dorthe, jo når arbejdet måler 16 cm følger du og tager ud ifølge diagram A.7a (i din størrelse). På 7.pind tager du 2m ud (1 i hver side af diagrammet) for hver gang du strikker A.7a i bredden. God fornøjelse!

27.08.2020 - 15:42

Cornelia wrote:

Na de eerste meerdering kom ik er niet uit hoe ik verder moet

20.09.2019 - 16:13

Dag Cornelia,

Bedoel je de meerderingen voor de armsgaten op de pas aan de achterkant? Je meerdert daar 4-4-6-6-11-11 in totaal aan beide kanten, aan de goede kant van het werk en deze steken brei je in tricotsteek.

23.09.2019 - 09:46

Schuitemaker Cornelia wrote:

Hoe moet ik verder na de eerste meerdering

20.09.2019 - 16:12

Helle Petersen wrote:

Er der en fejl i diagram forklaring. Kan ikke forstå at der er 2 der er ens

24.05.2019 - 12:40

Hei Helle. Ja, symbol nummer 2 (x) skal strikkes vrang fra rettsiden, rett fra vrangen. Vi skal få rettet dette i oppskriften. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

24.05.2019 - 13:17

Øygunn Leite Kallevik wrote:

Hei! Jeg prøver å få starte på denne, men klarer ikke å få det til å passe. På bakstykket: skal jeg fortsette på A2 fra der jeg har kommet før jeg la opp til hals?

08.02.2019 - 18:52

Hei Øygunn. Ja, du strikker som før over maskene på skulderen, fortsett med A.2 (på samme omgang som der du nå er) over maskene på bakstykket, og strikker som før over maskene på den andre skulderen. God fornøyelse

13.02.2019 - 11:44

Jose wrote:

Wat wordt er bedoeld met "als het kledingstuk gedragen wordt"?

08.12.2018 - 12:19

Dag Jose,

Hiermee wordt bedoeld dat als je het kledingstuk draagt, dat dan de knoopsgaten in de rechter voorbies moeten zitten. Dit geldt eveneens voor de rechter- en linkerschouder, dus gezien zoals het kledingstruk gedragen wordt.

09.12.2018 - 16:38