DROPS / 187 / 22

Early May Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS Design: Pattern no r-718
Yarn group B
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 10, peach

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows of stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows of stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH for sleeves (worked in the round with double pointed needles):
1 ridge = Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagram A.1.

To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 210 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 8.07. In this example work approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

Decrease 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves. 
Start 3 stitches before the marker and work as follows: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. 

The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up to the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, the pieces are then placed on the same needle and the yoke is worked in the round with decreases to raglan.

The piece is worked in the round with circular needle. Cast on 210-228-246-276-300-330 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 3 /purl 3). Continue with rib until the piece measures 3 cm, knit 1 round where you decrease 26-28-30-36-36-42 stitches evenly on round = 184-200-216-240-264-288 stitches on the needle – read DECREASE TIP-1. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work stocking stitch. Insert 2 marker threads in the piece; 1 at the beginning of the round and 1 after 92-100-108-120-132-144 stitches (= the sides). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 6 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased), decrease every 7 cm a total of 4 times – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. When the piece measures 30-30-31-32-32-32 cm cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Cast off the first 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches, work until there are 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches left before the second marker thread in the side, cast off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work until there are 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches left, cast off the last 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches. There are now 76-84-90-102-112-124 stitches on the back/front piece.

The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 47-49-51-53-55-57 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round. Then work as follows: Knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches, A.1 (= 29 stitches), knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches. Continue this pattern upwards, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6-6-8-8-8-6 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase every 3½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 10-14-18-18-19-20 times = 67-77-87-89-93-97 stitches. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. When the piece measures 42-41-40-40-38-37 cm, (NOTE! Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer raglan decrease and wider neck) cast off 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker thread = 59-69-77-79-81-85 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve.

Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes = 270-306-334-362-386-418 stitches. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between body and sleeve (= 4 markers). Continue with stocking stitch over the stitches on the body and pattern and stocking stitch as before on the sleeves, AT THE SAME TIME on the next round begin to decrease to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease every 4th round 11-10-8-8-9-8 times, then every 2nd round 7-12-17-19-20-24 times (a total of 18-22-25-27-29-32 times). After all the decreases to raglan there are 126-130-134-146-154-162 stitches on needle.
Work 2 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease on the first round 30-30-30-36-38-42 stitches evenly on round = 96-100-104-110-116-120 stitches – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Cast off.

Sew openings under the sleeves.


= knit
= purl
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitches
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 4 twisted together
= knit 4 together
= no stitch, skip this square

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Lysvert 21.09.2019 - 19:06:

Bonjour, au moment de tricoter ensemble le corps et les manches, le tricot doit être endroit sur endroit ? Comment doit être positionné le motif de la manche quand on commence a le tricoter sur le corps pour qu'il se retrouve bien sûr le dessus de la manche une fois le tricot terminé ? Merci

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:46:

Bonjour Mme Lysvert, cette vidéo montre comment placer les manches pour tricoter l'empiècement; le point ajouré de la manche doit se trouver au milieu du dessus de la manche, comme avant lorsque vous avez tricoté les manches. Bon tricot!

Lysvert 08.06.2019 - 16:23:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé ce super modèle et j'en suis rendue au moment de rabattre les mailles du tronc, avant de passer à la confection des manches. Ma question est : dois-je couper le fil et le passer dans la dernière maille sur mon aiguille droite ? Ou dois-je garder cette maille avec la pelote pour pouvoir par la suite tricoter ensemble le corps et les manches ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse 🥰

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Mme Lysvert, quand la dernière des 4-5-6 dernières mailles de l'emmanchure (= à la fin du tour) est rabattue, coupez le fil et passez-le dans la dernière maille. Vous tricotez ensuite les manches et vous reprendrez toutes les mailles pour l'empiècement - voir vidéo. Bon tricot!

Isabel Carvalho 19.04.2019 - 22:08:

Boa noite Preciso de um tamanho menor, equivalente a um XS. Será que me podem ajudar. Fiz o casaco e está lindíssimo! Obrigada.

DROPS Design 22.04.2019 kl. 19:28:

Boa tarde, Apenas podemos ajudar relativamente aos tamanhos indicados nas explicações do modelo. Bom tricô!

Anne Bennett 15.02.2019 - 03:11:

Ah Many Thanks. I also managed to translate your answer. :) I will post a comment when I have finished.

Anne Bennett 14.02.2019 - 00:46:

I have knitted the body of this jumper and started the first sleeve. My issue is reading the pattern A1 and decoding it to written. I end up with only 23 stitches of pattern. After knit one, purl 2, there is the black square and yarn over, purl 2. Is that black square a stitch? Can you send me the written pattern to make it clearer for me please?

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 08:02:

Hi Anne, The diagram is read from bottom right to left; Rows 1 & 2 = K1, P2, K3, P2, K13, P2. K3, P2, K1 (29 stitches). Row 3 = K1, P2, K1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K2 and lift the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted stitches, P2, K4 together, 1YO, K1, 1YO, K1, 1YO, K1, 1YO, K1, 1YO, K4 twisted together, P2, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K2 and lift the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted stitches, P2 and K1 (27 stitches). Then on row 4 you have 2 YO which increase the number of stitches to 29 again. A.1 is repeated upwards. Happy knitting!

STELLA PIKOULA 26.01.2019 - 23:22:

Good evening I have started knitting the body of this sweater, i have 184 stitches in my needles and i should cast off for armholes. In the end of body you write the number of the stitches NOW are (for the medium size) 84. But the number you cast off before it is not 100 stitches. Can you explain this

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 10:51:

Dear Mrs Pikoula, before armhole there are 184 sts, then you cast off 8 sts on each side for armholes = 184-16=168 sts, ie 84 sts remain for front piece and 84 sts remain for back piece, with 8 sts cast off between pieces. Happy knitting!

Dorte Larsen 27.11.2018 - 18:17:

Fejl i mønsteret 3. og 4. række. Mellem vrangmaskerne: Hvis man på 3. skal \\\"løfte en maske over de 2 sammenstrikkede\\\", bliver der kun 1 maske tilbage. Det virker jo ikke på den 4. række. Der må skulle være 2 omslag.\\r\\nFørste gang jeg kommenterer, men jeg har fundet mange fejl tidligere i jeres opskrifter. Det er ellers dejlige ting, I kommer med. Venlig hilsen Dorte Larsen

Guida 16.10.2018 - 10:36:

Bonjour, pouvez-vous, svp, me dire comment tricoter le diagramme en aller-retour ? J’ai assemblé toutes les parties sur une même aiguille mais je ne vois pas comment continuer le diagramme jusqu’ici tricoté en rond. Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 16:00:

Bonjour Mme Guida, quand on tricote l'empiècement, on va tricoter A.1 sur les manches comme avant, l'empiècement se tricote en rond sur toutes les mailles (dos, manche, devant, manche), on va donc tricoter A.1 comme on le faisait avant sur les manches. Bon tricot!

Eeva Savolainen 26.09.2018 - 20:14:

Onko neulekaavioon merkitty kaikki kerrokset vai vain oikean puolen kerrokset?

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 14:17:

Piirrokseen on merkitty kaikki kerrokset.

J SERVIANT 06.09.2018 - 14:01:

Bonjour, Je suis une bonne tricoteuse mais je me lance pour la première fois dans le tricot en rond et j'ai choisi ce modèle. Est ce un choix pas trop compliqué pour une première ? Merci pour les conseils éventuels.

DROPS Design 06.09.2018 kl. 15:40:

Bonjur Mme Serviant, lisez bien attentivement toutes les explications et suivez-les bien à la lettre. Si vous avez une question ou une hésitation, n'hésitez surtout pas. Le diagramme se lit en commençant en bas à droite, et tous les tours de droite à gauche. Bon tricot!

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