DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 522

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

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Sweet Pearl Jacket

Knitted jacket with garter stitch and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 187-38

#sweetpearljacket

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-121
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for the garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 35 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7-7-8-8-8-8 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round – for the sleeves):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size in A.3 and A.6.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side, when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the yoke measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 6-6-7-7-7-7 buttonholes with 8-8-7½-7½-8-8 cm between each one.
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JACKET:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 86-90-94-98-102-106 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 row and increase 25 stitches (by making yarn overs) evenly on row (do not increase over the first and the last 5 stitches = bands) = 111-115-119-123-127-131 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side; the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes. Read BUTTONHOLE – see description above.
Then work pattern from the right side as follows:
Work as follows over the left front piece: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 1 stitch), A.2 (= 5 stitches) over the next 5-5-5-5-5-10 stitches (= 1-1-1-1-1-2 times in width), A.3 (= 1-2-3-4-5-1 stitches).
Work as follows over left sleeve: Work A.4 (= 16 stitches), A.5 (= 5 stitches), A.4 over 16 stitches.
Work as follows over the back piece: Work A.6 (= 2-3-4-5-1-2 stitches), A.2 over 10-10-10-10-15-20 stitches, A.3 over 1-2-3-4-5-1 stitches.
Work as follows over right sleeve: Work A.4 over 16 stitches, A.5 over 5 stitches, A.4 over 16 stitches.
Work as follows over right front piece: Work A.6 over 2-3-4-5-1-2 stitches, A.2 over 5-5-5-5-10-10 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase as shown in A.3, A.5 and A.6 (i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.4 = a total of 8 stitches increased on each row from the right side). The increased stitches are worked twisted into the pattern as you go, there should not be holes. The band stitches are worked in garter stitch to finished length. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Diagram A.1, A.2 and A.4 are repeated in height. When A.3, A.5 and A.6 have been worked 1 time in height, continue to increase and the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as before. Increase on each side of each A.4 a total of 14-16-19-21-24-27 times (including the increases in A.3, A.5 and A.6) = 223-243-271-291-319-347 stitches. Then continue with garter stitch over garter stitch and stocking stitch over stocking stitch until the piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the neckline.
Now divide sleeves and body from the right side as follows:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 32-34-37-41-46-52 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-10-10-10-8 stitches under the sleeve, purl 63-67-73-81-91-103 stitches (= back piece), place the next 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-10-10-10-8 stitches under the sleeve, purl 32-34-37-41-46-52 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Body and sleeves are now finished separately.

BODY:
= 153-165-177-193-213-233 stitches.
Continue working in stocking stitch, but with the wrong side out, i.e. knit from the wrong side and purl from the right side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
Insert 1 marker thread 41-44-47-51-56-61 stitches in from each side of the piece (= front pieces = 71-77-83-91-101-111 stitches on back piece).
When the piece measures 4 cm from the division of the body and sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 4 cm a total of 6-6-7-7-6-6 times = 177-189-205-221-237-257 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm from the division of body and sleeves, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Cast off. Make sure that the cast off edge is not tight; you can cast off with a 1 size larger needle if necessary. The piece measures a total of approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the neck edge.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Place the 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-10-10-10-8 stitches cast on the body mid under sleeve = 51-59-67-69-73-73 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches.
Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch and knit over knit; the 8-10-10-10-10-8 new stitches under the sleeve are worked in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division of sleeve and body, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease every 5½-4-2½-2-2-2 cm a total of 6-8-12-12-14-12 times = 39-43-43-45-45-49 stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 5 cm from where the division of sleeve and body, continue with stocking stitch from the wrong side, i.e. turn the piece and knit in the round on the wrong side.
When the piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (purl 1, 2 stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above) in the round from the wrong side, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 0-1-1-0-0-1 stitch on the first row = 39-42-42-45-45-48 stitches. Cast off when the piece measures 43-42-41-39-38-36 cm from the division of sleeve and body. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can cast off with a 1 size larger needle if necessary. The piece measures a total of 63-64-64-64-65-65 cm from the neck edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= knit from wrong side, purl from right side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (23)

Stefanie wrote:

Wenn ich die Arbeit beim Ärmel von innen nach außen wende, um glatt rechts weiter stricken zu können, habe ich an der Stelle dann einmal eine Hin- und Rückreihe? Dadurch habe ich jetzt dort ein kleines Loch ...

23.12.2019 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefanie, die erste Masche können Sie wie bei verkürzten Reihen aber nur bei der 1. Reihe stricken (siehe Video. Dann weiter in der Runde glatt stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2020 - 10:23

Françoise wrote:

Merci pour vos réponses et bon conseil qui me guide vraiment dans mes ouvrage de tricot.

06.11.2019 - 13:04

Bonjour, J'ai encore besoin de vous. Quand j'arrive aux augmentations de 24 fois de A.4 pour la taille XXL, dois-je aussi continuer à augmenter aussi dans A.3 , A.5, A.6. Quand je calcule mes augmentations je me retrouve avec beaucoup plus de mailles c'et à dire 430 mailles au lieu de 319 mailles .(avant les augmentations quand j'ai fini A.3,A.5 , A.6 1 fois en hauteur j'obtiens 166 mailles). Merci de votre réponse, je ne comprend pas pourquoi j'ai autant de mailles en plus.

06.11.2019 - 09:42

Bonjour Françoise, après avoir tricoté 1 fois A.3,A.5 et A.6, vous avez augmenté 5 fois 8 mailles = 40 m + les 127 m = vous devez avoir 167 m. Continuez à augmenter avant/après A.4 comme avant encore 19 fois (= 24 fois au total), vous allez augmenter au total: 24x 8 mailles = 192 m + les 127 m = 319 m. Bon tricot!

06.11.2019 - 12:15

Re bonjour, si j'ai bien compris une fois mes graphiques terminés en hauteur je continue à augmenté dans chaque graphique comme avant, et j'augmente 24 fois de chaque côté de A.4.

03.11.2019 - 15:30

Bonjour Françoise, augmentez de chaque côté de chaque A.4 et tricotez les augmentations en point fantaisie au fur et à mesure - cf réponse précédente. En taille XXL vous augmenterez 24 fois au total = vous aurez 319 mailles quand toutes les augmentations seront faites. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 17:08

Bonjour, une fois tous mes graphiques terminés en hauteur ,faut-il que je les reprennes du début pour aller jusqu'à 27 cm de hauteur (A.3) (A.5) (A.6)

03.11.2019 - 11:25

Bonjour Françoise, vous continuez à augmenter en conservant le même rythme des mailles que dans A.2: *1 m end, 4 m point mousse* ou bien *4 m point mousse, 1 m end* pour que le motif soit toujours le même. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 17:02

Françoise Lelarge wrote:

Bonjour,j'attend toujours votre réponse je suis bloquée, au niveau des diagrammes comme je vous indiquée dans ma question précédente. Merci de me donner une réponse rapide.

02.11.2019 - 13:17

Bonjour Mme Lelarge, vous trouverez la réponse ci-dessous, merci pour votre patience. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 16:13

Dans ma question précédente j'ai voulu dire combien de motifs A3 pour les devants et combien de motifs A6 pour le dos. Merci.

02.11.2019 - 09:30

Cf réponse précédente pour le détail des diagrammes. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 16:10

Bonjour, pour les devants combien de fois dois-je répéter les motifs (3 pour le er devant droit) et le motif (6 pour le devant gauche)sachant que je tricote la taille xxl. Merci pour votre réponse.

02.11.2019 - 09:22

Bonjour Mme Lelarge, en taille XXL, vous tricotez pour le devant gauche: 1 m de A.1, 1 x A.2 et 1 x A.3 = 11 mailles au total - pour le devant droit: 1 x A.6 et 2 x A.2 soit 11 m au total. Pour le dos: 1 x A.6, 3 x A.2 et 1 x A.3 = 21 m. Bon tricot!

Françoise LELARGE wrote:

Je me suis tromper dans ma question précédente ce n'est pas du kid silk mais du brushed alpaca silk avec air. Encore merci pour la réponse.

22.10.2019 - 12:20

Bonjour Mme Lelarge, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, tricotez un échantillon avec les 2 laines souhaitées, et essayez de trouver la tension/l'échantillon qui vous convient, mais ces 2 laines ensemble risqueraient d'être vraiment très épaisses pour cet échantillon. Demandez conseil à votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, on saura vous aider. Bon tricot!

22.10.2019 - 13:02

Bonjour, Je voudrais tricoter se modèle avec un fil supplémentaire KID silk est-ce possible. (air + kid silk) combien de pelotes me faudrait-il de chaque. Cela me ferait un gilet plus volumineux et chaud. Merci de votre réponse.

22.10.2019 - 11:40

Bonjour Mme Lelarge, en tricotant 1 fil Air + 1 fil Kid-Silk, vous obtiendrez un échantillon différent, correspondant au groupe D de nos fils (plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici). Il vous faudrait donc rechercher davantage parmi les modèles du groupe D. Bon tricot!

22.10.2019 - 13:00

Sweet Pearl Jacket

Knitted jacket with garter stitch and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to choose yarn

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Sweet Pearl Jacket

Knitted jacket with garter stitch and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order