DROPS / 185 / 12

Ashbury Park by DROPS Design

Men’s knitted jumper with round yoke and multi-coloured Nordic pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-097
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-400-450-450-500-550 g colour 04, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker thread mid back = the start of the round. Start from the right side and knit 7-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker thread, turn, tighten the strand and purl 14-16-16-18-18-20 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 21-24-24-27-27-30 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 35-40-40-45-45-50 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 42-48-48-54-54-60 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
All stitches in the pattern are worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can work with a larger needle size if this is a problem.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needles (e.g. 80 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 3) = 26.6.
In this example, when decreasing, knit together approximately alternately every 25th and 26th stitch and 26th and 27th stitch.
When increasing make 1 yarn over alternately after every 26th and 27th stitch, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase on each side of the marker thread as follows:
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches) and make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat by the other marker thread. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread sits here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The start of the round is mid back. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches with short circular needle size 5 mm and medium grey. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 2) for 4 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 3-4-5-4-5-4 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 77-80-83-88-91-96 stitches.
Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION – see description above, in the back of the neck.
When the elevation has been completed, knit 1 round where you increase 7-10-13-14-17-18 stitches evenly on round = 84-90-96-102-108-114 stitches.
Continue by working PATTERN - see description above, as follows:
Work and increase according to A.1 (14-15-16-17-18-19 repeats of 6 stitches) - Read KNITTING TIP!
When the whole of A.1 has been completed in height there are 224-240-256-272-288-304 stitches on the round and the piece measures approx. 23-23-23-25-25-25 cm from the cast-on edge. Continue working with medium grey to finished length. Work the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S:
Continue until the piece measures 25 cm from the cast-on edge. Continue with ALL SIZES below.

SIZES M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL:
Increase 6-5-8-8-8 stitches evenly on every 5th-5th-5th-7th-6th round, 1-2-2-2-3 times = 246-266-288-304-328 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 27-28-30-32-34 cm.

ALL SIZES:
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-12-10-10-8-14 stitches evenly on round = 236-258-276-298-312-342 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 35-38-41-45-48-53 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 47-52-56-59-60-64 stitches on a thread (= sleeve) and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work the next 71-77-82-90-96-107 stitches (= front piece), place the next 47-52-56-59-60-64 stitches on a thread (= sleeve) and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work the remaining 36-39-41-45-48-54 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 154-166-180-196-212-234 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm from the separation, decrease 2 stitches in each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 9 cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 142-154-168-184-200-222 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 31-33-32-32-32-32 cm. Work 1 round where you increase 10-12-16-16-20-22 stitches evenly on round = 152-166-184-200-220-244 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 6 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 47-52-56-59-60-64 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 53-58-64-67-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches. Start the round here and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm from the separation decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 9th-6th-5th-5th-4th-4th round a total of 9-11-13-13-14-14 times = 35-36-38-41-42-46 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 41-39-39-37-35-35 cm from the separation. Work 1 round where you increase 1-4-2-3-2-2 stitches evenly on round = 36-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work rib (knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 6 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-43-41-41 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= medium grey
= off white
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 185-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Susan England 08.11.2019 - 22:43:

Still having problems with this pattern. Do I increase each side of the marker? And do I increase 6 pattern stitches etc?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 10:15:

Dear Mrs England, not sure what you mean here sorry. You first increase as shown in the diagram for your size. Then, in size M, you increase 6 sts evenly (to get 246 sts in total), these stitches are increased evenly (a href="https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=28&cid=19">read more here) and are worked with the background colour (coloured pattern is now finished). Hope it helps. Happy knitting!

Eva-Britt Gundersen Ovesen 04.11.2019 - 10:48:

Hei jeg fant ut det med oppskriften,hadde oversett at den biten i mønstret som gjelder for alle str,untatt small.Så da ble L det som er xl.Sånt skjer😀

Susan England 03.11.2019 - 18:07:

How do I incorporate the increase stitches into the pattern? I seem to be losing the pattern as it increases

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 07:53:

Dear Mrs England, the increases for yoke are included in the diagram A.1, make the yarn overs with the background colour and work the new stitches as shown in diagram. Do not hesitate to add markers between each repeat so that you can check number of stitches and pattern on every round. Happy knitting!

Eva-Britt Gundersen Ovesen 03.11.2019 - 02:17:

Hei jeg er begynt og strikke ashbury park herregenser.Alt er greit til mønsterdiagrammet er ferdig,med da 256m.på omgangen.Men så står det at det skal økes 8m hver 5.omgang 2gang for str large som jeg strikker.Og da skal det være 288 m i omgangen.Det stemmer ikke.Videre etter 30cm.skal det økes 10 m.og da er det plutselig bare 276m på omgangen.Håper på svar da jeg ikke skjønner dette.

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:53:

Hei Eva-Britt. Det er et forklarings avsnitt for str. S og et forklaringsavsnitt for str. M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL. Siden du strikker str L må du se på det 2. tall i tallrekken. Du øker 5 masker på hver 5. omgang 2 ganger = 266 masker. Når du leser videre og under ALLE STØRRELSER, så er alle størrelsene samlet igjen og du må da forholde deg til det 3. tallet i forklaringen. God Fornøyelse!

Ingvild 20.01.2019 - 18:08:

Jeg får ikke maskeantallene til å stemme når jeg skal fortsette arbeidet etter fullført a1? Økninger og maskeantall stemmer ikke? (a1 har riktig maskeantall og lengde på arbeid som det står i oppskriften... )

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 08:47:

Hei Ingvild. Før du begynner på A.1 har du økt 7-10-13-14-17-18 masker jevnt fordelt, og du har altså 84-90-96-102-108-114 masker på pinnen. Det økes 10 masker i hver rapport av A.1 fra start til slutt, og du strikker 14-15-16-17-18-19 rapporter av A.1 i bredden = totalt 140-150-160-170-180-190 masker økt når A.1 er ferdig. Om du legger sammen de økte maskene med maskeantallet du hadde fra før av får du 224-240-256-272-288-304 masker på omgangen når A.1 er strikket ferdig. God fornøyelse.

John 13.11.2018 - 21:05:

Hei. Tips til korleis eg kan strikke denne med raglan felling? Synes det er enklere og blir finere enn med rundefelling. Har opplevd ved fleire anledninger at rundfellinga ikkje stemmer.

DROPS Design 30.11.2018 kl. 09:59:

Hei John. Dette mønsteret er skrevet for rundfelling, og vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å skrive den om til raglan. Det er 2 ganske forskjellige måter å øke på så det vil ha stor innvirkning på mønsteret om alle masker økes på samme sted. Om du helst vil strikke raglan har vi andre modeller du kan titte på, i katalog 185, 174 eller 135 feks. Om det er i våre oppskirfter at rundfellingen ikke stemmer vil vi gjerne at du sier ifra slik at vi kan få rettet det opp. Som du kan se her er alle økinger tegnet inn i diagrammet og det skal derfor gå opp som forklart. God fornøyelse

Sandra 23.02.2018 - 18:06:

I'm having difficulty continuing past the 3rd row of the pattern. After the first increase the pattern on my knitting dosen't follow... what am I doing wrong?

DROPS Design 26.02.2018 kl. 07:37:

Dear Sandra, you can insert a marker after each repetition of the diagram so that you can always check the number of sts in diagram, ie after 3rd row: 7 sts + 1 YO in all sizes so that there are 8 sts in each repeat on row 4. Happy knitting!

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