DROPS / 185 / 9

Aure by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and cables for men. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Karisma or Sky.

DROPS design: Pattern u-841
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-450-500-600 g colour 01, white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 to A.6 (diagrams A.2 and A.6 only applies to size XL, XXL and XXXL). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and under sleeve):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 A.1 as before (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round purl/knit yarn over twisted and work the new stitches in A.1.

RAGLAN:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread. Purl 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), purl 2 together. Repeat decease at each of the remaining marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on round).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the number of stitches decreases/increases are done over (e.g. 26 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases/increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 4.3. In this example knit approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.
When increasing stitches make (in this example) 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
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JUMPER:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up. Work cables on front piece and moss stitch in the sides, on back piece and on sleeves. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. NOTE: Size XL, XXL and XXXL have one small cable (= A.2/A.6) more towards each side than model on picture.

BODY:
Cast on 218-234-254-276-304-328 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma or Sky. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= side). Now work rib in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE S, M AND L:
Work (knit 2, purl 2) over the first 24-28-32 stitches, knit 2, A.3a (= 10 stitches), A.4a (= 3 stitches), A.5a (= 26 stitches), A.4a, A.3a, work (knit 2, purl 2) over the remaining 140-152-168 stitches.
SIZE XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Work (knit 2, purl 2) over the first 32-40-44 stitches, knit 2, work A.2a (= 5 stitches), A.3a (= 10 stitches), A.4a (= 3 stitches), A.5a (= 26 stitches), A.4a, A.3a, A.6a (= 5 stitches), work (knit 2, purl 2) over the remaining 180-200-220 stitches.
Continue like this and repeat the first 3 rounds in diagrams until rib measures 5 cm. Work next round as follows: Knit the first 26-30-34-34-42-46 stitches and decrease at the same time 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work last row in diagrams over the next 52-52-52-62-62-62 stitches, knit the next 26-30-34-34-42-46 stitches and decrease at the same time 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly, knit the remaining stitches on round and decrease at the same time 26-26-30-32-32-36 stitches evenly = 198-214-230-248-276-296 stitches.

Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE S, M AND L:
(marker in the side is here = beginning of round), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 20-24-28 stitches, A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.4b (= 4 stitches), A.5b (= 34 stitches), A.4b, A.3b, A.1 over the next 20-24-28 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= the other side), work A.1 over the next 88-96-104 stitches.
SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
(marker in the side is here = beginning of round), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 26-34-38 stitches, A.2b (= 6 stitches), A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.4b (= 4 stitches), A.5b (= 34 stitches), A.4b, A.3b, A.6b (= 6 stitches), A.1 over the next 26-34-38 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= the other side), work A.1 over the next 114-126-138 stitches.

Continue pattern in the round like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm, increase 2 stitches on each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8 cm 4 times in total = 214-230-246-264-292-312 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 36-36-37-37-37-37 cm, work one round while casting off 12-12-14-14-16-18 stitches under each sleeve for armhole (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 stitches on each side of marker thread in each side = 190-206-218-236-260-276 stitches on round. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 14-16-14-16-14-16 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. Work diagram A.1 in the round. When sleeve measures 5-7-6-11-9-7 cm from cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve (= 2 stitches increased) - remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 14-17-20-21-22-23 times in total = 70-78-86-90-94-98 stitches. When sleeve measures 49-48-47-46-45-45 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), cast off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-18 stitches under sleeve (i.e. cast off 6-6-7-7-8-9 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 58-66-72-76-78-80 stitches remain. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 306-338-362-388-416-436 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin in transition after sleeve and before body on back piece and work pattern as before as follows: Work 4-4-4-4-6-8 stitches, insert a marker thread here (NOTE: this is the beginning of round onwards), work 76-84-90-100-106-112 stitches (= back piece), insert a marker thread here, work 66-74-80-84-90-96 stitches (= sleeve), insert a marker thread here, work 98-106-112-120-130-132 stitches (= front piece), insert a marker thread here, work 66-74-80-84-90-96 stitches (= sleeve). Continue pattern as before and knit 1 stitch on each side of the 4 marker threads in piece. On next round begin decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Decrease like this every 4th round 3-2-0-0-0-0 times and every other round 20-25-30-32-35-38 times (a total of 23-27-30-32-35-38 rounds with deceases) = 122-122-122-132-136-132 stitches. When decreasing for raglan and there are not enough stitches to work cables on front piece, work knit over knit and purl over purl. When all decreases are done, the piece measures approx. 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm. Knit over stitches on back piece, knit over the remaining stitches (the 2 sleeves and front piece) and decrease at the same time 22-22-22-16-16-12 stitches evenly = 100-100-100-116-120-120 stitches.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to a short circular needle size 3.5 mm. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-8-12-8-8-8 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 108-108-112-124-128-128 stitches. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= knit 2 in the same stitch (knit 1 stitch in back loop and knit 1 stitch in front loop)
= purl 2 in the same stitch (purl 1 stitch in back loop and purl 1 stitch in front loop)




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 185-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Huguette Tremblay 07.02.2020 - 04:01:

Le diagramme A.1 n’apparaît pas dans le patron?? Y-a-t-il une version révisée incluant le diagramme À.1??

DROPS Design 07.02.2020 kl. 07:56:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, le diagramme A.1 se trouve juste à côté du schéma des mesures, sous la manche. C'est un petit diagramme sur 2 mailles et 8 rangs (point de blé). Bon tricot!

BARBARA 28.12.2019 - 11:35:

Chodzi o wzór 185-9. Po przerobieniu 5 cm ściągacza mam odpowiednio zamykać oczka wg wzoru. Chodzi o rozmiar XXL. wg mnie jest tam błąd bo jakbym nie liczyła / a zrobiłam to 3 razy /pozostaje po zamknięciu 296 oczek a nie 276.

DROPS Design 30.12.2019 kl. 00:11:

Witaj Basiu! W tym rozmiarze masz na początku 304 o. Przerabiać kolejne okrążenie następująco: przerobić 42 pierwsze oczka na prawo, w tym samym czasie równomiernie zamykając 8 oczek (zostaje 34 o.), przerobić ostatni rząd schematów ponad 62 następnymi oczkami (tam dodajesz 20 o. a w sumie będzie ich 82), przerobić 42 następne oczka na prawo, w tym samym czasie równomiernie zamykając 8 oczek (zostaje 34 o.) i przerobić ostatnich 158 oczek w okrążeniu na prawo, w tym samym czasie równomiernie zamykając 32 oczka (158-32=126) = 276 oczek. Powodzenia!

Malin Kruska 10.10.2019 - 17:28:

Hej. Jag skulle vilja räkna om mönstret till XS. Hur ska jag tänka? Jag kommer använda Dropps Sky.

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 07:41:

Hej Malin, detta mönster är uträknat efter en stickfasthet på 20 maskor på 10 cm. Om du stickar i DROPS Sky och feks håller en stickfasthet på 21 maskor på 10 cm, så vill tröjan bli mindre. Gør gärna ett stickprov så du ser om det blir för kompakt för din smak. Lycka till :)

Eva Lindström 21.08.2019 - 22:31:

Jag undrar av vilken anledning man har krånglat till resåren så?! Går det inte precis lika bra att sticka 2 räta och 2 aviga i 5 cm, över det antal maskor man ska ha när själva mönstret börjar?! Kan inte se att det skulle spela någon roll... eller är det något jag missat?!

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 08:23:

Hej. Det är för att resåren ska passa med flätorna sen (så att de räta maskorna i resåren sedan fortsätter upp i flätorna) som mönstret är skrivet så. Mvh DROPS Design

Lise 08.05.2019 - 09:57:

Ignorer mitt siste spm ser nå at det er økninger i vrangbord så da stemmer jo fellingen.. Sånn er det å være nybegynner :P

Lise 07.05.2019 - 23:42:

På vrangborden str L skal man legge opp 254 m, mot slutten av VB skal man felle 6 +6+ 30 = 230, men det stemmer jo ikke ? 254 - 42 = 212. Skal det felles så mye på vrangbord siste runden ??

DROPS Design 10.05.2019 kl. 07:57:

hei Lise. Så bra at du fant ut av det selv, god fornøyelse videre.

Mira 11.03.2019 - 21:10:

Hi. Did I just found an error? Chart A3b, row 31 and chart A5b, row 32. Should that triangle face up, not down??? There is not one triangle (6 stitches) facing up...

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 12:26:

Dear Mira, there was a symbol not used, all cables over 6 sts are worked the same way, diagrams were correct, diagram key has been updated, thank you. Happy knitting!

Claudia 08.02.2019 - 05:06:

Hola en la explicación para las disminuciones del raglán dice que primero son dos puntos juntos de revés, dos reveses y después nuevamente dos puntos juntos de revés, es aquí donde surge mi duda pues usualmente al final se pasa un punto sin hacer, luego se teje un punto y el punto sin hacer se pasa por encima de est último. ¿Es correcto que antes y después se hagan dos puntos juntos? Muchas gracias por su ayuda.

DROPS Design 16.02.2019 kl. 20:17:

Hola Claudia. Las explicaciones son correctas. Para el raglán se trabajan 2 puntos juntos de revés, 2 puntos de derecho, 2 puntos juntos de revés.

Jenny De Jongh 11.01.2019 - 13:35:

Ik brei dit patroon precies zoals beschreven: met Drops Karisma en naald 3,5 voor de boord en 4,5 voor de rest. Helaas vind ik vooral de 'gerstekorrels' (patroon A.1) erg ruim. Je kunt als het ware door het breiwerk heen kijken. Op de wikkel van Karisma vind ik ook dat je moet breien met nl. 4 (i.p.v. 4,5). Daarnaast valt het patroon ook smaller dan in de omschrijving vermeld. I.p.v. 52 cm breedte heb ik nu 44 cm breed. Kortom: ik ben er niet zo blij mee...

DROPS Design 13.01.2019 kl. 10:27:

Dag Jenny,

Heb je van te voren een proeflapje gemaakt om te kijken of de stekenverhouding klopt? Pas eventueel de naalddikte aan zodat de stekenverhouding klopt. De ene persoon breit losser dan de andere persoon, vandaar dat je altijd even een proeflapje moet maken.

Louaked Evelyne 23.12.2018 - 00:16:

Bonsoir, pourquoi après avoir diminué 38m au 4eme rang ( après les 5cm de côtes ) vous dites que il reste 198 m pour moi il reste 180 m

DROPS Design 27.12.2018 kl. 19:30:

Bonjour Louaked Evelyne! Tout d'abord il y a 218 m (taille S). Au 4eme rang, selon les schemats (A.3a, A.4a, A.5a), on a augmente 18 m. (218+18=236m). En meme temps on diminue 38m (au 4eme rang), vous avez 236-38=198m. Bon tricot!

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