DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
DROPS 178-73
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-250
Yarn group A
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Sizes: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g of each of colours:
colour 11, strong yellow
colour 02, medium pink
colour 13, raspberry
colour 28, orange
colour 20, rust
NOTE: If you work the piece in one colour you will need approx. 50-50-50-50-50-100-100 g of Safran.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 28 treble crochets and 16 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Bikinis Colour Crush
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On the first row of the piece, work the first treble crochet in the 5th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets). 
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches.

STRIPES:
NOTE: The stripes are different in the different sizes. (The model in the picture is size XS). See the colour suggestions for the different sizes.
CAST ON + ROW 1: Strong yellow.
ROWS 2-3: medium pink.
ROWS 4-5: raspberry.
ROWS 6-7: orange.

Continue working as follows in the different sizes:
SIZE XS:
ROWS 8-9: rust.

SIZE S:
ROWS 8-9: raspberry.
ROWS 10-11: rust.

SIZE M:
ROWS 8-9: raspberry.
ROW 10: orange.
ROWS 11-12: rust.

SIZE L:
ROWS 8-9: raspberry.
ROWS 10-11: orange.
ROWS 12-13: rust.

SIZES XL and XXL:
ROWS 8-9: raspberry.
ROWS 10-11: orange.
ROW 12: raspberry.
ROWS 13-14: rust.

SIZE XXXL:
ROWS 8-9: raspberry.
ROWS 10-11: orange.
ROWS 12-13: raspberry.
ROWS 14-15: rust.
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BIKINI TOP:
First you work 2 loose cups. Then the cups are threaded onto a twisted cord.

CUP:
Work 21-21-24-27-27-32-38 chain stitches with strong yellow and hook size 2.5 mm – READ STRIPES! Work back and forth as follows (row 1 = right side): Work 1 treble crochet in the 5th chain stich from the hook (= 2 treble crochets) – READ CROCHET INFO, then work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 15-15-18-21-21-26-32 chain stitches, work (2 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets) in the last chain stitch on the row, rotate the piece, skip the last chain stitch (i.e. the chain stitch you have just worked) and continue with 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 17-17-20-23-23-28-34 chain stitches on the other side of the chain-stitch row = 38-38-44-50-50-60-72 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch. Turn the piece and continue back and forth with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet on each side of the chain-stitch row and work (2 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets) around the chain stitch at the top of each row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Continue in this way until you have worked a total of 9-11-12-13-14-14-15 rows of treble crochets, but on the last row adjust the number of stitches so that you have 35-39-44-49-51-56-64 treble crochets on each side of the chain stitch at the top (= a total of 70-78-88-98-102-112-128 treble crochets). The piece measures approx. 11-14-15-16-18-18-19 cm along the bottom edge of the cup. Cut the strand.

BOTTOM EDGE OF CUP:
Work an edge back and forth along the bottom of the cup with raspberry. The first row is worked around the side of the outermost treble crochet as follows:

ROW 1: Fasten the strand with 1 double crochet, work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 1 more treble crochet around the same treble crochet. Work * 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets around the next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* 16-20-22-24-26-26-28 more times along the bottom edge of the cup.
ROW 2: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 treble crochets, work 2 treble crochets around the next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* 16-20-22-24-26-26-28 more times, work 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 treble crochet in the last stitch.
ROW 3: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work * 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets around the next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* 17-21-23-25-27-27-29 more times. Do not cut the strand!

EDGE:
Work * 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* 2 times along the side of the edge at the bottom of the cup. Continue with * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 double crochet in the next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* up to the chain stitch at the top of the cup, work (1 double crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet) around this chain stitch and continue downwards in the same way as on the first side. Finish with 1 double crochet around the last treble crochet on last row of the edge at the bottom of the cup. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work 1 more cup in the same way.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 3 strands of 3 metres with strong yellow. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist on its own. Tie a knot in each end and cut the strands so that the ends are of even length. Thread the cord up and down between the treble crochet groups in the bottom edge of each of the 2 cups. The bikini is fastened at the back.

Cut 3 strands of 1.2 metres with strong yellow. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist on its own. Tie a knot at each end and cut the strands so that the ends are even. Thread the cord through the edge at the top of one cup and tie a larger knot on the cord.
Work another twisted cord in the same way and fasten to the top of the other cup. The cords are tied behind the neck.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Kari wrote:

Hei igjen:-) Tusen takk for at du ramset opp oppskriften, da skjønte jeg det, hurra! Beklager alle spørsmålene! Mvh Kari

24.02.2022 - 11:13

country flag Kari wrote:

Hei igjen! Tusen takk for svar. Ser at det stemmer at 2,5 er pinnestørrelsen. Har økt på begge sider i første farge i første rad med staver slik det står i oppskriften. Har heklet veldig stramt siden den ble så stor da jeg heklet løst, kanskje det er derfor den har blitt så rar:-) Får teste en gang til, hvis den har blitt sånn som på bildet når dere testet den ut så må det jo stemme i oppskriften. Mvh Kari

24.02.2022 - 07:27

country flag Kari Sletteberg wrote:

Svar til deres svar: Det er det jeg har gjort, men det blir absolutt ikke pent, kan problemet være at det er for få masker i første farge i utgangspunktet? Det resulterer i at økningen øverst blir en egen liten høyde som ikke blender med resten. Er det noe sted jeg kan sende bilder? Har dere testet ut denne oppskriften? Mvh Kari

14.02.2022 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. I ditt 1.innlegg skriver du at økningene ikke skjer før i farge 2. Nei, det skjer i 1.rad med staver, altså med 1. farge. Men så skriver du i ditt 3. innlegg at du øker i 1. rad. Hva er riktig, når øker du? Du skriver også i ditt 1. innlegg at det er oppgitt heklenål 3, i oppskriften er det kun oppgitt 2,5 mm. Av de 2 andre Spørsmålene er det ingen som oppgir feil heklenår str. Stemmer heklefastheten din? Hekler du på begge sidene av luftmaskeraden og øker kun i den ene siden? Vi har heklet bikinien + 2 tester for å dobbeltsjekke nå, våre stemmer. Dessverre ingen mulighet å sende bilder, men ta kontakt med din butikk og la de se på arbeidet ditt.

21.02.2022 - 07:22

country flag Kari Sletteberg wrote:

Glemte å skrive spørsmålet: Hadde det ikke vært mest naturlig å øke stavmaskene etter rekken med luftmasker sånn at ikke arbeidet trekker seg sammen, eller har jeg forstått oppskriften feil og i tilfelle hva gjør jeg feil?

09.02.2022 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Se vårt svar på ditt første innlegg :) mvh DROPS Design

14.02.2022 - 08:56

country flag Kari Sletteberg wrote:

Bikinien har bare 21 masker i første farge og hekles på hver side. Økning skjer ikke før i farge 2. Da blir det så mange masker at den innerste delen som er mye kortere trekker arbeidet sammen. I tillegg var det oppgitt pinne 3, men måtte bruke 2,5 som oppgitt i kommentaren til en bruker under oppskriften. Kan sende bilder hvis jeg får en e-postadresse av dere. Mvh Kari

08.02.2022 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Jo, du øker i "toppen" på hver rad. Du hekler 1 stav i hver stav på hver side av luftmaske-raden og hekler 2 staver, 1 luftmaske 2 staver om luftmasken på toppen på hver rad. Så på neste rad hekler du også 2 staver, 1 luftmaske 2 staver i luftmasken fra forrige rad (=øker). Da får du en fin bue på "toppen". mvh DROPS Design

14.02.2022 - 08:53

country flag Maurine wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la taille, il faut choisir en fonction du bonnet ? S = A, M = B, etc ? Merci.

18.04.2021 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maurine, regardez le schéma des mesures, il pourra fort probablement vous orienter. Bon crochet!

19.04.2021 - 08:28

country flag Heidi Cecilie Brandshaug Løken wrote:

Hekler str M. Cupen blir 20 cm bred nederst. Hva gjør jeg feil? Den er jo så lang og smal på bildet.

22.07.2017 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, hækler du i DROPS Safran, så hækler du lidt løsere end hvad vi gør ifølge opskriften. Om du gør det så vælg en nål som er et halvt nummer mindre, da kommer det sikkert til at stemme. God fornøjelse!

09.08.2017 - 15:19