DROPS / 178 / 39

White Flower Pillow by DROPS Design

Round cushion with lace pattern, worked in the round in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.

  • White Flower Pillow / DROPS 178-39 - Round cushion with lace pattern, worked in the round in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • White Flower Pillow / DROPS 178-39 - Round cushion with lace pattern, worked in the round in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • White Flower Pillow / DROPS 178-39 - Round cushion with lace pattern, worked in the round in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-792
Yarn group A + A or C
Measurements: For a round cushion of 40 cm or more in diameter.
Materials (for the cushion with a diameter of 40 cm):
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 6 MM – or the size needed to get 15 stitches and 30 rows garter stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

CUSHION 40 cm in diameter – or desired size.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagram A.1.

Is worked in 2 similar parts which are sewn together at the end.
The piece is worked in the round in a circle on double pointed needles. Change to circular needle when the number of stitches is sufficient.

Cast on 8 stitches with 2 strands Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 3 strands) and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm (= 2 stitches on each needle). Continue with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 8 repeats of A.1 on the round). When the first 21 rounds of A.1 have been completed, move the start of the round 1 stitch to the left, first on every 2nd round, then on every 4th round – in other words, the start of the round is always just before the first yarn over in the diagram so that it is as invisible as possible. The start of the round will eventually be in the middle of the first repeat of A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed once in height, there are 208 stitches on the round. The piece measures approx. 34 cm in diameter.
Insert 8 marker threads in the piece, insert the 1st marker thread in the 1st stitch on the round, then insert 7 marker threads with 25 stitches between them, the marker threads are directly over the points of each leaf. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads. Increase with 1 yarn over on each side of the stitch with the marker thread – on the next round purl the yarn overs to leave holes = 16 stitches increased per round. Repeat the increases every 2nd round until the piece measures 40 cm – or to desired measurement. Cast off, use a needle and baste the hole in the middle of the cushion.
Work another part in the same way – making sure that you have increased the same number of stitches before casting off.

Lay the 2 parts together with wrong side to wrong side and sew through both layers in the outermost stitch. When you have sewn half the cushion cover place the cushion in the cushion cover before sewing the rest of the opening together. Cut and fasten the strand.


symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On the next round, purl the yarn overs to leave holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = knit 2 stitches together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Claudia 12.04.2019 - 21:06:

Bin nun mit dem Kissen fertig und es ist superschön geworden :) Was mich allerdings ärgert, ist die Menge an Wolle, die ich nach Anleitung gekauft habe. 2 mal Alpaka und 2 mal Mohair Silk hätte vollkommen ausgereicht! Nun habe ich fast das doppelte bezahlt und habe total viel Wolle übrig, mit der ich eigentlich nichts mehr anfangen kann..

country flag Claudia 14.03.2019 - 23:38:

Nun habe ich doch noch eine zusätzliche Frage. Muss ich in der Runde 28 dann mit einer oder zwei linken Maschen anfangen? Verschiebt sich auch hier der Rundenanfang entsprechend? Vielen Dank schonmal :)

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2019 kl. 09:39:

Liebe Claudia, am besten immer die Runden ab 27. Runde nach der 1. Umschlag (die 1. Masche im 1. A.1 einfach abheben und dann die 2 nächsten M re zs stricken), am Ender der Runde enden Sie mit 1 M re (= 1. M im 1. A.1) und 1 Umschlag. Von jetzt an wird der Runde hier beginnen, dh immer nach dem Umschlag - am Anfang R 28 stricken Sie die M rechts wie im Diagram gezeigt und enden mit 2 M li (= die 2 ersten M im ersten A.1). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Claudia 14.03.2019 - 10:03:

Vielen Dank :)

country flag Claudia 13.03.2019 - 22:39:

Hallo, auch ich habe ein Problem ab der Verschuebung der Maschen und leider verstehe ich die französische Antwort nur zur Hälfte. Was ich allerdings verstanden habe, ist, dass man erst nach der Runde 27 (statt 21) damit anfangen muss. Mir ist nun auch nicht ganz klar, wie oft ich das in jeder zweiten, und wie oft in jeder vierten Runde tun soll? Und was mache ich mit der einen Masche davor? ich hoffe, Sie können mir helfen!

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 09:59:

Liebe Claudia, ab der 27. Runde beginnen Sie die Runden mit dem Umschlag, damiti die kraus rechts maschen immer schön aussehen (so ist der Übergang zwischen Runden schöner). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Chris 09.04.2018 - 17:09:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse. Il n'est donc pas besoin de décaler tous les quatre tours ? (sinon le début du tour ne sera pas calé avec le premier jeté si j'ai bien compris ?) Cdt, Chris

user icon DROPS Design 10.04.2018 kl. 08:12:

Bonjour Chris, effectivement, décalez simplement le début des tours juste avant le 1er jeté de A.1 jusqu'à la fin pour que le début des tours soit le plus invisible possible. Bon tricot!

country flag Chris 09.04.2018 - 15:58:

Bonjour, pour le passage : "décaler le début du tour d'1 maille à gauche, d'abord ts les 2 tours, , [...] milieu du 1er motif de A.1" Pour décaler le début, on fait passer la première maille sans tricoter (pr qu'elle soit tricotée en dernier) ? A partir de quel tour faut-il décaler ts les 4 tours au lieu de ts les 2 tours ?Je ne comprends pas quand il est dit que le début du tour se fait avant le premier jeté (par ex au tour 22 le jeté est au milieu de la ligne de A1)

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 16:13:

Bonjour Chris, je pense qu'il faut décaler ici à partir du rang 27 et non du rang 21 (une vérification va être faite), c'est-à-dire lorsque vous tricotez le haut de la feuille, au début du 27ème rang, glissez la 1ère md e A.1 sans la tricoter, puis commencez le tour ici au niveau du jeté: 1 jeté, 1 diminution, etc... ainsi, les tours commencent juste au niveau du jeté de A.1. Bon tricot!

country flag Claire 05.04.2018 - 16:17:

Bonjour, il est spécifié qu\'il faut 75g de kid silk et 200g d\'alpaca. Or, d\'après l\'explication, il semble que tout le long du travail il faudra utiliser au moins un fil kid et et un fil alpaca ensemble. Comment se fait-il alors que les quantités de laine ne soient pas les mêmes ? Cordialement, C

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2018 kl. 08:17:

Bonjour Claire, ces 2 laines ont un poids/métrage différent, soit 25 g/env. 200 m pour Kid-Silk et 50 g/167 m pour Alpaca, soit 75 g kid-silk= 600 m et 200 g Alpaca = 668 m. Il faudra donc plus de pelotes Alpaca pour avoir une quantité suffisante pour le métrage nécessaire. Bon tricot!

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